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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • In concurrence with duntov's comments. I had the timing chain ( and cover) replaced before the thing broke and left me stranded beside the road. Same deal with remote oil filter hoses. If they fail while going down the road, all the oil gets pumped out of the engine before there is a chance to do anything about it, Fortunately, your leak was easy to fix. Sounds like it was the oil filter adapter.

    No clue on the cost of the motor mounts, other than maybe it's mostly labor because GM's fine engineering made them so hard to get at.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The problem could have been any one of a number of oil system parts.

    The one piece crankshaft seal housing adapter retains the rear crankshaft seal. The seal can be replaced without replacing the housing adapter but it is easier to replace the whole assembly as a unit. It was probably not that that failed because it would have cost more than what you paid to replace it. The one piece crankshaft seals rarely fail.

    On a 4x4 Blazer , the oil leak you had was probably the remote oil filter / oil cooler hose adapter gaskets or the oil cooler / oil filter hose O-rings seals. That adapter bolts to the block with two bolts where the oil filter is located on 2WD Blazers. The oil cooler and oil filter hoses are attached to the adapter with one bolt with a gasket and have "O" ring seals that can fail. . The oil filter and oil cooler hose adapter itself cannot fail but the oil hose O-ring seals and adapter to block gaskets can. fail. The hose ends of the oil filter and oil cooler hoses are aluminim and can crack easily and leak. In that event the hose assemblies must be replaced with new O-ring seals. The oil filter and oil cooler hose assemblies are similar to A.C. hoses but are not high pressure hoses.

    On a 4x4 Blazer, the oil filter and adapter is located on the left fender behind the radiator support. The oil filter adapter is connected to the oil filter and oil cooler hose adapter with two hoses paired together, one in and one out and come in two assemblies, the front assembly is from the oil filter to the oil cooler and the rear assembly is from the oil filter to the oil hose adapter that is attached to the engine block. The front and rear hose assemblies are pre-assembled with aluminum connectors and they are avaliable from Dorman for about $50. Those hose assemblies are also a wear item and should always be replaced when the engine is rebuilt or if they leak.
  • Thanks to all for the new information. With so many potential oil leaks I think I see why GM used a pressure sensor that will also shut down the engine. This happened to me one night. I had recently replaced the sensor because the digital display was erratic. While driving the engine died. No loss of oil. Mechanical test gauge indicated normal pressure while cranking. Sensor was defective. Would not restart. I replaced the sensor next day, temp., with the old erratic unit. It started and ran normally. Installed a second new sensor. two days later failed again. I will never understand auto mechanics as you guys, obviously do. Wish they were as simple as a radar or a navigation system.

    As to the motor mounts; your reason is close to what the shop told me. Almost all labor due to design.
  • i have a 94 blazer and it keeps blowing the ign/gau 20 amp fuse and then it looses the gauges and the charging doesnt work ergo it will run off the battery then die i change the fuse and it blows and sometimes i can drive and it doesnt i dont get it i looked for burnt wires or shorts and cant find any any help would be appreciated also i had a 95 with the same issue i couldnt figure that one out either so it sits proubably with the same needed solution so please any help i would be very thankful robert
  • I don't usually post messages that say "I don't know" or something similar. I don't have any place to point you to where the wire is chafed or bare, but that just about has to be the problem. You might try putting an ammeter in line with the fuse and wiggling various wires until you find one that causes a large draw. I suppose another possibility would be the coil failing and shorting to ground. You would need a wiring diagram to isolate the various circuits fed by this fuse.
  • my 1999 GMC Jimmy will not shift out of park, with the engine running and break depressed. The break lights work and there is a click in the dash when I push the button on the shifter.

    Where do I start looking to find the problem and how do I override when I want to use the car until I find the problem.

    the Jimmy is 4wd, 4.3L V6, automatic.
  • Up until a month ago, my Blazer of 3 years had run great with a little over 100,000 miles on it. I loved it and never had any trouble with it.

    Recently it began not starting. If left alone long enough ( 8-9 hrs ), I could get it to eventually start. So from the recommendation of a mechanic, I had the fuel pump replaced ( twice ) on my Blazer. The first one, I was told was faulty from the factory because it did not solve the problem.

    Now ( with the $350.00 fuel pump repair ) it is slow to start ( which is a new sympton ) but unlike before NOW it DOES eventually turn over ( with enough cranking) and then it runs fine.

    It NEVER did any of this stuff before. The battery is only 9 months old. The battery terminals are clean. There is NO service engine soon light on. Although it will start, I am wondering how long it will be until it doesn't, again. I can't seem to find anyone who knows what is up with the damn thing. :)

    Any sound, solid advice would be MUCH appreciated !

    Fustrated female in Michigan !!
  • Hi ALL
    i have 2000 chevy blazer 4x4 (4 button) I am having a problem when I push any of the buttons (AUTO OR 4-HI OR 4-LO) the light blinks but it goes back to 2-Hi

    I tried changing four wheel drive computer and the 4 button switch and still the same thing (i also have 2001 gmc jimmy with the 4 button switch and 4x4 computer had same part numbers and the 4x4 works fine on my 01 jimmy)

    Thanks In Advance for any help with this problem
  • ragtop69ragtop69 Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    My daughter's 97 Blazer with 160K mi. had an SES light up on the dash. My mechanic checked it out and it was a problem with the torque converter. It won't lock up in fourth gear at 60 mph (or at all) causing the computer to throw a code. He cleared the code and I drove the truck for 51 miles (under 60 mph) and took it in for the test. It passed all the tail pipe tests with flying colors but it couldn't complete the computer self test. The smog guy asked if the car had been recently worked on or if the battery had been disconnected. He suggested I drive the thing for 100 miles before trying to pass. I put another 49 miles on the truck and took it back. Still didn't pass the self test. The smog guy is guessing the computer is bad. Has anyone else had this sort of problem? Do I need to put more miles on the truck before retesting? I just want to get this thing passed so that she can sell it. Help!
  • The buttons blinking indicate that the vehicle didn't go into 4WD. The most common issue with these is the vacuum hose used to work the actuator. It runs under the battery and eventually the fumes eat away the hose. Also could be the actuator itself, or the cable from the actuator to the shifter fork that is inside the axle housing.

    If you lie under the front of the car while someone else presses the buttons, you may be able to track down the malfunction. You an see the actuator and cable. they should move as the vehicle is shifted into and out of 4WD.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    edited November 2010
    Smiley,

    I had the same problem with my 01. Look under the hood near the fire wall and almost direclty above the distributor cap. There is a sloelnoid switch there that has two air lines (one in and one out) and an electrical connector. I replaced this and it has worked fine ever since. Came in handy as we got over 64" of snow just after replacing it. It is a DEALER ONLY part and cost about $56.

    I can't remember what it is called though. The air lines (on mine anyway) were a bit hard to get off but once they broke loose they came off easily. I did the same that thing "johns" mentioned and checked the actuator under the battery. There were no tears or damage. So I replaced the solenoid.

    Hope this helps.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    The part is called Front Axle Actuator Valve (P/N 15165891). had to do some digging but I found it
  • Hi
    I took the one off my 01 gmc jimmy same part number and switched it and still the lights blink I took the one off my 2000 blazer and put it my 01 jimmy and it worked so it wasn't that
    I will look under the battery in the morning and try that since i have the 01 gmc jimmy which the 4x4 works fine
    Any more ideas or help I would be thankful
    also note the i noticed it was not working after the alternator went which I replaced it and then i noticed the 4x4 I am not sure if that means anything
    Have a safe holiday
    thanks again
    Smiley
    IF anyone else has ideas with this matter please help me thanks
  • over the last week it has developed alot of front end noise just this morning i went to leave and its like the front end is locking up the only way it will move is 4 low and with a lot of effort i am new to four wheel drive butt is this a front diff problem or what any help would be great!!! :sick:
  • My heat isnt working at all it just pumps cold air, and when i put the fan speed at 4 i can hear a rattling noise coming from inside the dashboard vents. Has anyone had this problem and know how to fix it? id really hate to have to dish out loads of cash for a entire new heating system
  • 01 Blazer with similar situation. did you get and answer? This blazer rocks side to side (like wave motion)whenever it hits a bump or road irregularity (ie always). Most pronounced on freeway and is scary at 80 MPH. Wheel bearings tight. ball joints tight, replaced pitman, arm idler arm steering gear (used), alignment, front shocks replaced, rear shock removed and checked good reinstalled, ball joints check good, sway bar bushings check good, tires rotated, upper and lower control arm bushings check good, springs check good and crack free. Help?
  • Just a thought, because I didn't see mention of springs, but have you checked the front and rear springs as well as all the shocks. Just looking won't always show problems, try jacking the vehicle up from the frame and flexing the springs.

    Do post when you find the problem.
  • Mt 1998 4.3 V6 Blazer runs very rough when the weather is cold. It acts like an ignition miss, that is, it seems to be worse under load. But I have replaced the cap and rotor, plug wires, plugs and coil. The rough running will sometimes sooth out after the engine has been at operating temp 20-30 minutes. Runs smooth during the summer with no issues. I'm beginning to suspect fuel injectors or stuck valve train components. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • Is it easy to detach the front diff on a 1998 Blazer 4x4?
    And how is the easiest way to do it? Time frame?
    It won't engage and I have discovered that the problem is inside the diff, it won't engage even if I pull the fork out max by hand.
    Do anyone have a clue what the problem can be?
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    I have a 95 Blazer 4X4, that I've just put a motor in. I am having trouble keeping it running. If I have a loose main bearing with crank sensor, would this cause it to cut off while driving? PLEASE HELP!!!!! Thank you
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