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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • First question... do they squeak all the time? or ... Just when you are applying the breaks?

    What kind/brand pads are you using? How long did the vehicle sit before you took delivery of it? How many miles are on the vehicle?

    I would advise you to replace all rubber brake lines... if they have not already been changed... Why??? Because… if it is made out of rubber... change it every ten years. I have experienced brake lines failing on the INSIDE... (no visible sign)... and causing damage and the need for replacing many parts in the brake system downstream of the line itself.

    On the brake pads… do yourself a favor… use Bendix… or the best quality pad Advance Auto parts has to offer… I don’t recommend the ceramics… good braking characteristics… but leaves a lot of gray dust on the wheels.

    I have a 96 Blazer... I can tell you just about everything there is to know about what they need as I have done just about everything to it since owning it.

    TJ
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Next time install ceramic brake pads instead of semi-metallic brake pads.

    The advantage of semi-metallic pads is that they last longer than ceramic and are more fade resistant for better high speed stopping power. The disavantage is they wear the rotors faster, are noisy and creat a lot of oily black brake dust. I have alsways used AC Delco ceramic pads on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. Ceramic brake pads are quiet and do not create rusty-black brake dust that sticks to your wheels, however, they do create a small amount of brake dust but it is not black and it does not stick to the wheels. Ceramic brake pads dampen noise, have good fade resistance and are easy on your rotors, but they wear faster than semi-metallic pads.

    I will install Bendix CT 3 ceramic brake pads next time. I like Bendix CT 3 ceramic pads because I feel like they are just as good as the more expensive AC Delco ceramic brake pads. The use of quiet ceramic pads requires that I must replace them more often but I do not have to replace the rotors.
  • They put new rotors and thermo-quiet brake pads and O2 sensors but have noticed the problem started since they've changed the brakes and pads for inspection. The previous owners are a pair doctors and did not need the vehicle so they let it sit unused for some time till my wife ask about the truck. They said that they never had a problem with the brakes and never had any work done. It has 110k miles and I am amazed that it still drives like a new truck. The problem I am having is when you initially use the truck I have no problems but during the day of stop and go traffic or long distance driving the brakes start to squeak. Then the following day nothing till you drive it all day again. Advance auto suggested that there is a lubricant they you can apply to eliminate the problem, My mechanic is suggesting changing the rotor and brake pads for different ones.
  • Lets review... It has new rotors... new pads... Who did the work?

    I have used Thermo-quiet... .and they are very good. Currently I am using Advance Auto ceramic pads. I have 222220.0 miles on my Blazer. To this date... I have never had to change rotors... not even close to needing changed.

    When a vehicle sits for a long period of time... (over six months), the brakes are going to need some service...

    What I really don’t know... and what I can not know... is exactly... what the noise sounds like. That would help a lot... and your mechanic... if he is good... should be able to tell by the sound... what the problem is. Vibration can cause a squeaking noise. Where the mounting tabs on the pads compresses with channel locks when installed... if not... they are riding loose and could vibrate.

    From time to time... my rear brakes will squeak... when I am leaving the driveway in the morning... (not warmed up yet)... Once they warm up... no more noise... About every six months... I check the rear shoes... (Bendix... they last forever)... usually have to change the front pads twice for every one time I change the rear shoes. During a checkup... I will take some sand paper... 100 grit... and knock the glaze off the shoes... I will then put a large container under the wheel... and use the hose to spray everything clean... then dry with compressed air... or sidewalk blower. Then I check all my lube points.

    What about the rubber brake lines? Where they ever changed? If not... you are running on borrowed time... They will fail... had it happen... they collapsed on the inside... the fluid could not release pressure on the rear wheel cylinders... the brakes stayed engaged... and I burned up both rear drums... shoes... wheel cylinders... and the seals overheated.

    The single rear axle hose had failed... (it cost about 15.00)... but it cost me a lot more to replace everything else. Rubber is good for about ten years... Also... what kind of brake fluid are you running? I would go with the Valvaline Synthetic...

    Let me know what happens...
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Where I live, the independant repair shops have so much business they can "cherry pick" the cars they will work on. A 1986 - 1995 S10 Blazer is one they will try to avoid. Full service auto repair shops that do state inspections will not inspect a 1986 -1995 S10 Blazer with ABS 4WAL brakes because if there is problems with brakes, they are bound by law to fix the problem. The repair shop can run up a bill on those cars which is three times more than the car is worth. For example, a rebuilt ABS modulator for 4WAL brakes cost $800, if one can be found . When the customer gets the bill, the car owner will say, "keep it" and walk off and abandon the car. I would not trust an independent auto repair shop to check the air in my tires. There is no way to know what parts the repair shop put on your car. I will guarantee, it will be the cheapest parts thay can find to maximize their profits. if a auto repair shop was honest, they would go broke. The best independent auto repair shops are found in small town with a population of less than 15,000. If they rob a customer in a small town, it will all over town in three or four days. Therefore, an auto repair shop in a small town cannot afford to rob a customer because there are so few of them. .

    Rather than trust a buch of crooks at a auto repair shop, I personally replaced my entie brake system, including a new combination valve, master cylinder, new hoses, pads, front brake rotors, front pads, rear shoes and rear brake drums. It took about 5 hours to do all that but it took me and my associate about 10 hours to bleed the brakes with new brake fluid. That was before I found out I needed to use a Tech 1 scan tool to cycle and bleed the ABS modulator before I could bleed the rest of the system. It is nearly inpossible to bleed the 1986 - 1995 version of ABS brakes by foot pumping if you don't have a Tech 1 scan tool. Auto repair shops don't have a Tech 1 scan tool because those things cost from $800 to $1500 and a shop will not invest that much money in a tool that they may only use once a year. They just tell a customer with a 1986-1995 S10 Blazer..."Take it somewhere else".

    I will see in my lifetime when automobile technology will put all the independent auto repair shops out of business. Who will be able to afford to repair or maintain an automobile that is out of dealer warranty??
  • Hi I have a 97 Jimmy and I just put a new alternator, battery, fuel pump into the truck. Its having trouble firing up in cold weather. It gets to the point where it starts hiccuping like its about to fire up but then stops... It starts in warmer weather and if I do get it started it takes a bit for me to get going when i step on the gas. Could someone help me???
  • Hi
    I had the same problem ...It was the fuel pressure regulator ;)
  • I dont know anything about cars. Is that part expensive to replace?
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    edited February 2011
    If you've tried starting fluid and that didn't work, when's the last time your distributor cap, rotor and plug wires were replaced?

    Check the cap for corrosion, but if it hasn't been replaced in a few years, it's probably time.

    When the cap fails, the vehicle won't start. It might seem like it wants to start but won't. Plug wires last for a long time, but if they are bad, just as a bad distributor cap, they can work on and off.

    If you've tried starting fluid one time and that didn't work, go for the cap. If you get it running and you get very high idle, email me and I'll explain what happened to me.

    Rick
  • Does anyone know what the service life span of the ignition coil should be? In other words... If there is 225,000 miles on the vehicle... would it be wise to change the ignition coil?

    My concern... I noticed smoke... coming out the back... during hard acceleration the other NIGHT... from onramp getting on the interstate. Changed 60K miles ago… Wires-AC Delco, Plugs- Bosch Titanium, Cap/Rotor-Jacobs Electronics but has aluminum contacts… changing out this weekend for AutoZone Gold Set with brass contacts $59.99. Searched the internet... best deal I could find.

    Thank you in advance for any info on this subject.

    TJ
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Posts: 11
    What color is the smoke? Blue or black? If it's blue you have a bigger issue. If it's black it's carbon. An ignition coils won't make it smoke. Try cleaning out your egr valve or replacing it. It's more than likely black smoke from carbon with the miles that are on it. Also could be piston rings are leaking under hard acceleration.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited March 2011
    A ignition coil degrades over time. You never know how bad it was until you replace it. The coil should be replaced at least every 100,000 miles. The same applies to the ICM (Ignition Control Module) in the distributor. That device should be replaced when you replace the coil. Be sure to use heat sink paste (not dielectric grease) on the heat sink plate under the ICM and use new GM attachment screws because they serve as the ground for the ICM. Theuy are probably rusty by now. I recomend using Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease (heat sink paste) which is available at AMAZON or most electronics or computer parts stores for about $6 .. Always use a NAPA (or equal) distributor cap and rotor with brass electrodes. It is their most expensive Echlin cap and rotor.

    As far as white smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration, that indicates worn valve seals. That has always been a sore spot with Chevrolet S10 Blazers. Those seals usually only last about 30,000 miles before a puff of white smoke starts appearing out the tailpipe on start up. It will continue to get worse until the plugs start to foul and reaches the point that you will have to switch to AC Delco CR45TS spark plugs which are a higher heat range. After long periods of idleing (high vacuum) the white smnoke is at its worst when accelerating.

    Black smoke indicates the fuel injectors eeds to be cleaned. Use Chevron/Texaco or Shell gasoline with Techron. Techron works wonders for fuel injection systems and in-tank fuel pumps.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    I replaced the coil on my 1998 S10 blazer at 210,000 while trying to cure a cold weather miss. Changing the coil didn't fix it. The coil was about $30 from Rockauto, a web based parts house. The coil is a bit of a PITA to change since it is riveted onto the bracket. Had to grind off the rivet heads and then hammer out the rivets.

    The coil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the smoke. Blue or Gray smoke is usually oil getting past the rings and burning with the gas. Black smoke is usually over-rich with fuel.

    Another possibility is the transmission overheating (fatal) which will boil out the fluid and it lands on the exhaust pipe, leaving a trail of white or gray smoke.

    Good Luck.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    It is too late now but GM/AC Delco offers a replacement bracket with bolts in a package that will allow you to install a new ignition coil without grinding off the old rivets and re-using the old bracket.
  • OK... Thank you for the info John... The smoke I believe is a white/gray... the plugs are all clean... Transmission was rebuilt about four years ago... and running great. I suspect it was an ignition problem... as it runs great in all speeds and loads... just the smoke... and I experienced this before about six years ago... when my plugs had 100K on them. I only saw the smoke on hard excelleration... I went to check the plugs and as soon as I touched number one plug wire with the plug wire pliers to pull it off... the wire... fell off the boot... it had burned completely through and was just held together by a thread. As soon as I changed the wires, plugs, cap and rotor... the smoke and the check engine light went away. Up until now. I am intalling a new cap/rotor with brass contacts this weekend... and see what happens...

    Again... thank you.
  • Thank you so much for the info.... I use only Chevron fuel... and at the same station. There is no smoke at start up... or during idle... before and after warm up... only a dusty looking smoke... on hard acceleration from 50 mph and up. I check spark plugs every six months... Bosch Platinum single electrode... I am on my second set of wires... and wish now that I had ordered the Jacobs wires five years ago... when I placed my last order for parts on my 81 Grand Prix... best wires I have ever used. I have not tested my wires in some time... but they are factory Delco... and I am sure they have over 100K on them by now. I will be looking at spark plug wires this weekend at the parts store... AutoZone... where I got my brass cap and rotor... brass... five year warrantee... best deal I could find local and on the internetl... made a big difference in idle.

    The coil... is mounted exteral of the distributor on a bracket attached to the intake. I will take your advice and change it... just as a matter of pricipal... and having 225K on it... but I will do the wires first... as they are the weak link in the ignition system.

    I did not know about the heat sink grease... thank you... I was using die electric when I changed out ignition modules... still on the OEM one as well. I have a used back up... tested and ready to go.

    I have not seen any smoke since I changed the dist cap and rotor... but not 100% sure I have done any hard acceleration... I will do so... before changing testing and changing wires this weekend and let you know.

    Also... I have used AmsOil Synthetics in this vehicle since I purchased it... used... with 80K... and all original plugs, wires, cap and rotor which I ended up changing at 110K miles.

    That's all for now...

    TJ
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Posts: 11
    My best advice is if u own a gm use acdelco parts. For some reason I have seen gm's do some crazy things with no deco parts so just my advice to you!
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    The OE ignition coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer included a bracket that is bradded to the coil frame and a replacement coil does not come with a bracket. Therefore, I had to purchase a GM coil bracket and bolt kit separately in order to mount a new coil. However, the ignition coil on your 1996 Blazer does not mount the same way as the coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer and you can reuse your OE coil bracket.

    Silicone di-electric heat sink grease comes in the package with a new ICM (Ignition Control Module) but don't use it. Look up "di-electric" in the dictionary and it means "insulator" . You do not want a grease that is an insulator on a heat sink. The purpose of a heat sink is to "conduct" heat away from a electronic device so that is why you should use Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste on the ICM heat sink. . The only reasons silicone grease is recommended for the ICM heat sink is because it will not run out when it gets hot and it prevents corrosion. Always use new mounting screws when you install a ICM because the OE screws are probably corroded. The ICM is grounded through one of those mounting screws which passes through a brass sleeve in the ICM. Excessive heat and a poor ground due to corrosion will rapidly degrade an ICM .

    I use an Accel ICM because they send a longer electronic square wave to increase ignition coil dwell time to the ECM which gives the coil higher voltage saturation. An new AC Delco ignition coil is compatible with the Accel ICM. I have heard bad things about AC Delco Ignition Control Modules (ICM) but I suspect that rumor is from people who are using aftermarket high output ignition coils with a OE distributor and ICM. An AC Delco ICM cannot handle the draw of a high output ignition coil.

    Use an AC Delco ignition coil or good brand of replacement coil such as NAPA or Standard Motor products if "MADE IN MEXICO" bothers you. IMO, you should avoid Wells (Autozone) ignition and electronic products and they are "MADE IN USA". Wells Electronics made the Norden bomb sight during WW 2 and that device was not accurate.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    My 1999 Blazer is not blowing cold air or is very very faint. Charge was low so put some more refridgerant in. According to the gague was the correct amount. Also contained a dye and found no leaks.

    When I have the ac on the clutch will spin intermentianly every few seconds. sounds a little metallic when it kicks in, like a slight scrap of dry metal. Not sure if it is working or trying to cycle on.

    Is the ac clutch suppose to spin constantly when the ac is on?

    Going to try a new relay first but any help would be appreciated before I waste money on a new compressor
  • Hi
    I would try bypassing the cycle switch and see if it gets colder if so they are $9.99 at autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Switch/_/N-91t6l?itemIdentifi- er=175014&_requestid=455251
    to by bypass it unplug it and out a jumper wire to it and see it the a/c gets colder
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