Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

bcarter3

I haven't had a chance to read these posts for a while. Regarding post 925 by "ault", I had the same situation. It turned out to be the hood hinge. The hole for the hinge bolt is quite a bit larger than the bolt and the hood moves up and down making a "clunking" sound when going over rough pavement. There was a Service Bulletin issued for this and the number is 01-08-63-001. The "fix" is to remove the hinge bolt, install a cone shaped washer and reinstall the bolt. I purchased the washers and did the job myself in about 10 minutes. The part number for the washers is 12383460 and I paid $5.18 for two. I haven't had the "clunking for two and a half years. Credit for the info goes to Alldata.

sockpuppet1969

I don't think you can replace just the circuit board as it is not a separate part. It comes as part of the "wiper assembly" or something. Anyway, I was quoted approx. $300 for the whole thing, parts (~$200) and labor (~$100).

alcan

"I don't think you can replace just the circuit board as it is not a separate part."

It isn't.

Try here, AC DELCO #12463039 windshield wiper pulse control module, $50.13:
http://webepc.com/cgi-bin/sewse?/u/www/webepc.com/cmm/scripts/epc- 12.cmm+discap1

Or here for a remanufactured unit @ $26.79:
https://www.rockauto.com/applet3.html

hollywood

My service engine light went on and I had to replace air intake valve.

My ABS and Parking Brake indicators stayed on. Checked sensors. Replaced parking brake module, very costly. Lights no longer on.

Fuel guage gone wacky as with other posts.
What could it be?

Whinning sound, sounds like tires although tires are in good shape. What could that be?

68,000km. Any ideas for cheap solutions? Thanks!

cliffwilson

Your soft brake pedal condition is most likely due to air in the brake lines. If you don't regularly flush your brake fluid, you're bound to have the problem. Brake fluid naturally absorbs ambient moisture. Over time, the oxygen component of the water separates into air bubbles. Some manufacturers (Honda for one) now recommend annual flushing of the brake lines. It not only alleviates a spongy brake pedal, but also protects the valves in the anti lock brake module and enhances brake reaction time. A cheap piece of maintenance with a high return value.

stevestein

out of our 1999 Blazer (bought as leftover in 9/99). Have done routine manitenance and replaced alternator. Truck just turned 40K, and plan about 5K per year. Any suggestions as to preventative maintenance at this time?

jal012773

I just had a local, reputable tire and alignment shop replace the idler and pitman arms on my 2001 Blazer (53k miles). When I picked it up, the steering wheel is about a quarter turn left of center. I called the tire shop and they explained that in order to set it back straight they would have to put in on the rack and reseat something, which would throw my alignment off. They also said I need new upper and lower ball joints, and until I replace those they couldn't get a proper alignment, possibly even make it worse causing excessive, uneven wear on my tires. My local dealer beleives the ball joints do not need to be replaced yet, and my warranty company beleives the same, therefore they will not cover the repair at this time.

My question... I know next to nothing about cars. Since my steering wheel was dead on before the repair, is it really that complicated to set it back right? I don't know who, if anyone, is just blowing smoke or what. I need some advice on how to handle this matter. Thanks....

tommc

Take about five minutes to turn tie rods, recheck toe, to center the wheel. Pretty shabby work by any garage to let the vehicle out the door in this condition. Print this out and take/mail it to the garage. Come on guys, do it right and quit making lame excuses to rob the customer of more money.

flew0207

I posted about fluttering noise and low oil pressure as well. Interesting that the same thing happened after having water pump replaced. I'm in Canada so chances are slim that you used my mechanic Took the Jimmy to dealer for them to diagnose...the recommend rebuilding or replacing engine. Quote for rebuilding is approx. $4000. Am struggling with whether this is really worth it. Perhaps a used import would be a wiser way to spend my money. Thanks for the insight.

jerzroots

Speaking of lights...over the last 2 months, I've noticed that my airbag "idiot light" has been lighting intermittently...no specific frequency or duration. What does this signify and what should I do?

mikebant

Yes I have same problem in GMC Jimmy 1995. itry so many place but no one fixed problem. it is like heater in car so i have to keep window opened all time .how you can fixed it let me know.

Thank you,

mike bant

tommc

Maybe not in your case, but a great many of these wiper deals are due to a bad solder joint. I've fixed a couple myself. Just pull the wiper cover and remove the circuit board. In really good light examine the larger points where the main connector plugs in, might see a hairline circular crack around the terminal. Anyone with a soldering gun can fix this pretty simply, for free.

wingerone

I congratulate you on never having had problems with the aluminum wheels but you're one of the lucky ones that has a good dealership to go to. As I've said, this happened to my causing twice. The tow truck driver acknowledged having seen in many times. The General Manager of the dealership that did the repair acknowledged the problem and the cause. The fact of the matter is that if a single nut is loose the aluminum will rattle the others loose. Both the tow driver and the dealership acknowledged that this problem does not occur with steel wheels. There are too many substandard dealerships out there or just not so careful mechanics that are not practicing the proper care and these incidents are happening.

wingerone

Stephen,

I couldn't agree more. I too feel that American cars are now junk. I will not be buying American again until the correct this situation. My next vehicle is going to be Toyota.

I've written to Edmunds to request that they have a page devoted soley to reports by owners of problems they've had with their vehicles and to include exact problem, cost to fix or price quoted by dealership, and the milage as was done by you and to be sorted by year, make and model with a direct link from the main review page so that people can easily find and see what kind of problems they can expect. I invite you and anybody else reading this to do the same to encourage Edmunds to make this change to their website. It will make car buying easier for all of us and make the car companies sit up and pay attention and perhaps start making better vehicles when more and more people come to Edmunds to find this information and it starts affecting their sales.

Scott H. Suss, wingerone@epix.net

tidester

Most vehicles already have "Problems & Solutions" discussions. Feel free to browse and participate in them!

tidester, host

autoadvisor

Hello, need some help, about a month ago I recked my driver door on my 1999 Chevey Blazer LS, I was backing up with my door open and I hit the fender on my other car. The door was torn and the holes were the pins go on the top hinges and bottom hinges broke, my door is hanging by a thread. I found a place on the net for Chevy parts, but they charge $55.00 for each hinges.
Does anybody here know a wholesale place were I can find those hinges cheaper.
Thanks a lot in advance.

stever

Were those new?

You could try an auto salvage yard, but I doubt that you're gonna do much better than that.

Steve, Host

paulette

I just purchased a 1993 Jimmy and I could swear that the steering wheel seems to have too much play causing the truck to drift to the right. I will check into getting the the steering wheel reset. I didn't know you could do that.

bigalds

Resetting the steering wheel is simply a part of a front end alignment. Several angles are checked and corrected, Toe in, Toe out, Caster, Camber and a few others. The one that affects the steering wheel the most is setting the TOE, which makes sure that they are pointing straight ahead or slightly inward while the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.

morencyj

Hello everyone,
This is not a problem persay...but a question. Has anyone replaced there tires with 30X9.50R15 sized tired? Any speedo or alignment problems? I need new tires and a tire shop said that this size shouldn't be an issue...still a 15 inch tire. Has anyone installed 30X9.50R15 sized tires?

I ordered 4 new ones and they will be in next week.

Thanks in advance!

capriracer

I hope you ordered Load Range C tires (104 Load Index). Otherwise you didn't order tires with enough load carrying capacity - Load Range B has a Load Index of 96.

Most Blazers come with P235/70R15's (102 Load Index) inflated to 35 psi. (If yours came with P235/75R15's, then you need a 31X10.50R15LT, but read on.)

So assuming you ordered the Load Range C tires, you have to have 47 psi to get the same load carrying capacity. The net result is going to be that your vehicle is going to ride pretty badly.

morencyj

I did get load range c tires. They are Dayton Timberline A/T's. Why are they going to ride badly?

Thanks for the info!

morencyj

Here is a link to the spec page for the tires, look for the 30X9.50R15.

http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tireselector/dpp/sizespecs_caen.as- p?passproductid=168

paulette

How much should a standard tune up cost? I am a single mom and I feel very apprehensive going to auto shops for service cause I feel I'll get shafted or talked into something I don't need. This 93 Jimmy is my first "SUV". I've only owned 4 cyl "pocket rockets". The truck sputters on inclines and I know it needs a tune-up.

stever

The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what a regular service should cost for your zip code.

With newer computer controlled cars, few people do "tune-ups" any more - you can change the plugs but most cars don't let you adjust the timing that was a part of old tune-ups. But your Jimmy may be old enough to still have a distributor cap, etc.

Ask around your community - maybe you'll find a good independent mechanic nearby.

Steve, Host

capriracer

I tried to call up the link you provided but it merely goes to spec list and I can't duplicate the process you used to determine that the size fitment was proper.

However, the tires are going to ride badly because you need to have 47 psi in order to get the proper load carrying capacity.

capriracer

Opps!!

I just noticed a typo.

The pressure in the above post should be 37!! psi.

Sorry for the confusion.

jmaxe

I think I have something similar in my '00 Jimmy. About how much will this repair set me back at the dealer?

eatingpaste

I am looking for a used 4x4 blazer 2002 or 2003. Is there anything special I need to look for that could indicate a mechanical problem with this year of blazer? What is typical of the gas mileage? If anyone would like to point out any known problems that are common, I would appreciate it.

Kirstie_H

A reporter is wondering if anyone has had trouble getting parts for cars and trucks from the 1985-1997 model year. If you have a story to share, please send it to jfallon@edmunds.com by Friday, November 19, 2004.
Thanks!

auto9999

My 2000 Blazer (Trailblazer trim) 40k miles is experiencing a weak cranking at start up. It has not failed to start the engine yet, but it hesitates before the engine ignites. Also the rear hutch unlocks as the engine starts. I thought the electric current used at the rear hutch was reducing the voltage available to ignite the engine. My dealer has a different opinion and says that "the problems are most likely from the weak battery as the weak battery does all the weird things". I am not sure if the weak battery falsely unlocks the rear hutch, and I still believe that the troubles are related to the faulty wiring or circuit board. Any opinions?

alcan

Use a set of jumper cables to connect to a known good battery and try starting it.

auto9999

Alcan,

Thank you for a quick response. I had to jump start the truck twice a few months ago, and the battery was ok until last week. The voltage is still normal at the middle of the meter (12V). The cranking and hesitation at the turn of the key began last week and the rear hutch unlocks as the engine starts.

Is the dealer's opinion correct that the weak battery causes other electronic control malfunctionings?

I still feel from other threads on this board that there might be a short in circuit boards or wiring.

auto9999

Correction:

The voltage is still normal at the middle of the meter (14V).

instead of (12V).

bigalds

You are stating 12V, then 14V, You must be referring to your CHARGING VOLTAGE while the engine is running. You need to put a voltmeter across the battery terminal and read what the voltage falls to while you are cranking the engine. It should not go below 9.5V. If it does, it is weak, or not charged enough, or your starter is drawing too heavy of a load. If you don't have a meter, turn on your dome light and watch it as you crank the engine, if it gets real dim, voltage is dropping too low. Charge up the battery, then take the battery to a good auto parts store and have it tested.
Good Luck,
E.D.

asare200

How do you flush the heater core? I am having the same problem.

asare200

I have a '96 Jimmy, the AC works fine but the heater will not warm up. What could be the problem. Any easy fix? I know that I have to flush out the rad cos it has jelled up. Could this be affecting the heater? What is the best way to flush out the rad and heater core without going to a shop? I will appreciate your advice.

bigalds

Find both hoses that go to the heater core, they go to the fire wall next to the A/C (passenger side). Take the hoses loose and use a water hose with no metal end, to run water through the heater core. Push the hose on one side and then the other, so that you force water to flow both directions through the heater core. If water flows through, it's ok, If water does not flow though, it is clogged and it will need to be replaced.
Good Luck,
E.D.

bigalds

Connect the water hose to one of the heater hoses that goes back into the engine, Remove the radiator cap, slowly turn water hose a little bit and water should come out the radiator filler. Start engine, let it idle, turn up the flow on water hose, do that until water runs out clear. If your system was real dirty or rusty, you may have to use a radiator cleaner chemical before you flush the cooling system with water. You can use some cleaner available at auto parts stores, or you can try pouring in a whole bottle of CLR and let the engine idle with the CLR in it. Be SURE to flush the system out with water after you use any chemical.
Good Luck,
E.D.

asare200

Thank you for your advice, I will try and clean the system this weekend. Thanks a lot

auto9999

Thank you for your advice. Finally my battery died last Friday and I had to buy a new ACDelco battery at the local Chevy dealer. Since then there is no hutch malfunctioning, and the engine starts with no hesitation with a turn of key. The new battery comes with a 5-year warranty, and it gives me some peace of mind. (I had to pay $100 plus $45 labor for this repair.)

tommc

Whoa, 45 bucks labor to put a battery in a blazer? Should have gone to Sears, or Autozone. Get a 6 year battery installed for $70 and know it's a fresh battery that hasn't sat in the storeroom for 6 months. Oh well. Really odd that the hatch did this on low voltage. Have to remember this one.

spknrich

My 1997 Jimmy is difficult to shift out of PARK (automatic transmission). Pumping the brake peddle a couple of times and pushing it down hard seems to release the shifter most of the time. It is not parked on a hill and has no problems while driving (shifts normally). It seems to be somewhat worse first thing in the morning. Was wondering if the cold could be a factor and what the problem could be.

bam36

hello, i have a 97 blazer that is having the same problems, stalling and such. i would love to trade it in but dealers wont give me squat as usual, i am going to sell it myself but will not without ignition problem being fixed. can you tell me how much it cost to get the switch changed out. thanks in advance

cliffwilson

From the symptoms you describe, the most likely problem is a faulty Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Solenoid. When the brake pedal is depressed, the shift lock solenoid contacts open, allowing the movement of the gear shift selector. Cold weather is not a factor. However, the fact that pumping your brake pedal permits movement from the Park position points to a weak shift lock solenoid.

kpann

Can anyone tell me where the wiper pulse control module is located. I have the part on the way and would like to replace it myself.

cliffwilson

The Wiper Motor Module is part of the wiper motor unit that is attached to the firewall. To replace it, first, disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector (5-Way F Metri-Pack). Next, remove the three screws holding the cover on the wiper motor. Once the cover is removed, lift up on the terminal connector (the terminal and module are a unit). This will separate the module from the motor. Reverse the process for installation. Be careful tightening the cover screws. The service manual calls for only 23 inch pounds of torque. Excessive torque can easily damage the plastic cover.

sockpuppet1969

I was inspired by your post to finally fix my own wipers. I also have a '98 blazer. The mechanic was asking $300 for the repair. I bought the part from the dealer for $55 and did the repair myself in less than 15 minutes! The only thing I did not do was use sealant around the cover when I put it back on. They work perfectly now - thanks!

auto9999

I have a few minor troubles on my 2000 Blazer Trailblazer trim:

 

After rain when I move the car I hear a sound of water moving in the ceiling, like a small amount of water gushing in a narrow channel. Apparently moonroof seam let water in and water stays in the ceiling. Dealer blew clean the drainage but does not work.

 

Also when I start the car in the rear gear and when the car rolled backward about 5 feet I hear a popping sound from below the body around the right front axle.

 

Does anyone have the similar problems? Any cure?

boilermaker1

I have a problem with my 2000 Jimmy 4 wheel drive. When I try to select anything but 2 wheel drive, the lights flash and the service 4 wheel drive light comes on. Originally thought this was the vacuum valve located on the top of the firewall. Replacing it did not fix. Measured voltage at connector to valve and got 0V when engine off, 7.5V when engine one and in 2 WD drive, 12V when 4WD switch is on. I thought this indicated bad connection to one of the wires. Moved the wires around on the connector block under the dash, this seemed to fix it for about a week. Now the same problem is back.

 

Does anyone know how I can permanently fix this? Does this wire terminate into a computer connector? Which wire is it exactly, there are several black wires? How can I take it apart so I can check to see if it is a problem with the connector or perhaps a solder joint problem?