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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,286
    It's easier to understand comments when you don't "shout" - lower case is much easier on the eyes. Thanks.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I own a 89 Blazer Sport 125K and from all other blazer owners I talk to there seems to be this problem of hard starting. Perhaps this is just the nature of the 4.3. After all it really isn't a "balanced" engine. However other than this problem my blazer is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned old or not! Thinking about purchasing a new one soon!
  • rjhallrjhall Posts: 2
    I was just at the autosafety.org site looking at service recalls and saw something about this. (Sorry, I didn't read it. I was looking for my latest problem.)
  • rjhallrjhall Posts: 2
    The latest problem on my '96 Jimmy 4wd, 4dr, SLT?
    Main brake lights inop, (hi-mount 3rd light still works). I replaced the bulbs. Turn signals, tail lights, flashers all work. No brake lights.
    Dealer tells me over the phone 'It's probably the multi-function lever ('turn signal', in english) but we have to charge a $100 diagnostic fee to be sure'. Surprise! it's the multi-function switch! That'll be $235 for the part, and with labor and the diagnostic fee it comes to $488.92. I give up!
  • Failure of the multi-function switch (turn signals, hazard lights) results in the condition you experienced (stop lights inoperative/high mount stop light operative). I know for the 2000 and 2001 Blazers this problem was the subject of a recall. The multi-function switch was replaced in these vehicles at no charge. I'm not certain about the 96 model year. However, you may want to investigate since GM has acknowledged the existence of a defective component that compromises safety.
  • mtuppsmtupps Posts: 1
    My problem seems to be related to gasoline.
  • Hi everyone,
    I have done some searching in this discussion category concerning the infamous oil cooler lines. I have found 26 entries in total and I have yet found any mention of a recall. Is there? If so I would appreciate it if I could obtain the TSB.

    There is an obvious engineering design flaw for this let me tell ya!

    Yesterday I purchased both cooler lines for my wife's 96 Jimmy for a total of $160.00 (that's $250.00 Canadian my dear friends) and I'm not too happy about it, especially when the dealers have the complete monopoly of having the parts all to themselves. I was unsuccessful in finding the lines in parts stores throughout Canada. Go figure!

    Have a nice day all....
  • I have been researching the same issue with no luck. In February I had my wife's 96' Jimmy serviced for the ABS recall and also had the service station check out an oil leak. It turned out to be the oil cooler lines, which they replaced $302 later. This was not the end of it. Last night she returned from a trip and after parking in the driveway I noticed a puddle of oil forming on the ground. She lost 3 1/2 qts of oil, luckily it hadn't overheated. It turns out it is the same lines I had them replace just this past February. There is a define problem here!

    Hopefully the Service Station will replace them at no charge, but I doubt it.

    Please let me know if you find any further information on this issue.

    Thanks
  • On my '97 Bravada, leaking oil lines were replaced the 1st time at 34,400 miles on 4/12/00. The GM P/Ns were 15726903 "pipe", and 15701719 "seal". At 46,500 miles, on 2/26/01, the leaking oil cooler lines were replaced again. This time, the GM P/Ns were 15760333 "pipe" and 15760334 "hose". I was told these were the updated P/Ns to address oil cooler line leakage. I'm now at 68K miles, and while I recently spent $1700 to have the oil pan gasket AND the timing cover gasket replaced for oil leakage, the oil cooler lines are presently NOT leaking... for now.
  • the grinding noise in gear is caused by the
    exhaust y-pipe flanges bottoming out on the exhaust manifolds.the fix is to remove 2mm from
    the exhaust flange stand-offs and replace the
    manifold pipe seals with thicker seals.
  • depawl,
    I have not had much luck with the service engine light issue. It is an intermittent problem and recently had it checked out with my mechanic during a regular maintenance visit, and wouldn't you know the light was off while in the service station. The light is on and off so often it's something I don't even have much concern for anymore. I imagine someday it will indicate something serious, and hopefully I won't get stranded somewhere.
  • mtupps,
    What was the nature of your gasoline problem?
  • jimsxnjimsxn Posts: 108
    Sorry...but you make an interesting case study. Can I ask what motivates you to buy an SUV? It seems a logical assumption that you are not towing/hauling/off-roading with it.

    Have you give a thought to station wagons/minivans?

    Thanks.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Have a part number for an autotrac switch for a 00 Blazer?

    Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Got a reply from partszoneonline.com about the autotrac switch

    Sent em an email last night and they got back quick

    List is like $50 my price is $32

    Part number is 15037124
  • This is a post that I haven't seen yet. I have a 2000 Chev. Blazer LS and the liftgate will not

    open. You can hear the mechanism working when you

    unlock it with the key, but it will not release.

    Has anyone had this problem with their Blazer.
  • My 96 Blazer LT has problems with extreme heat it seems... This summer, when 90+ temps (no problems in 85 deg. or less temps), it would stall, but immediately restart. Luckily, I'm in Denver, so not real hot too often. Temp gauge is fine, mid range, doesn't fluctuate at all with the problem. Has problems with upshift too. Can floor the pedal and RPM goes over 5-6k before shifting into next gear...again only happens with the heat...mostly does it from 1st to 2nd but is fully capable of doing so driving 65mph on highway as well. Biggest pain is the thing will stall at stoplights/signs (but re-starts immediately) with the same apparent shifting problems as before. Any ideas? Fuel injectors fine, fuel pump less than 1 yr. old, new alternator and battery. Winter time now, so it's running fine, but I fear for the summer.
  • I love my 94 S10 -- recently however, the steering wheel has started to vibrate, no matter what speed I'm driving at -- any suggestions?
  • Hopefully, this problem will seem common to others:
    My mom has a 2000 Bravada,(bought new off the lot), and with only 12K miles, the check engine light came on, and stayed on. She took it in and evidently when you put the gas cap on, you need to make sure you tighten it REALLY well. I thought this was rather dumb at first, but it fixed her problem. Then Saturday, 12/28/02, my wife and I bought a 2000 Jimmy (same engine, trans,etc....). Then just today, my check engine light came on. At first I was pissed, and took it to the dealer I bought it from. Then I remembered my mom's ordeal. So I tried it. NO DICE!
    Anyhow, the interior fit and finish it total crap. Rattly and squeky plastic everywhere. And I knew this when I bought it. But my wife likes the 2DR for easy of driving and it's "sporty".
    Also, when I open the rear tail-gate, the windshield wiper leaks wiper fluid EXTREMELY bad. Any hints?
    P.S. Do the 2000 models have this "bad oil cooler lines" I've been reading about?
  • today I had the best automotive experience I've ever had, I got rid of my 97 Jimmy!!! I had more problems with this pile of junk than all 8 of my previous vehicles combined. I will absolutely never purchase another GM product. GM never once tried to make things right, "Refuse and Deny" should be their company logo. But all is good now, my family and I have purchased a Pathfinder, which we know to be a good vehicle its what we traded in for the "SHIMMY JIMMY", as my kids called it! GOOD LUCK AND SO LONG
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    You guys are right on with the quality of these SUVs. My 99 Blazer is also the worst car or truck I have ever owned! The American manufactures are not impoving quality. I don't think I will ever buy GM again either. The stupid executives of GM wonder why their market share is declining!! They must be the dumbest bunch of guys in the auto industry! I truly admire Toyota, Honda, and Nissan for their quality.
  • Hello everyone! have been reading all the stuff about blazers, WOW! Hope I don't have half of them,would like to know were to start looking for a cure to my driver window dead without warning. One day it's on the next its not,is this something I can repair? how do I tell if its the switch,relay(if its separate?),motor,etc? Read some similar text,I have $200.00 deductible warranty,that covers this ,any help on what direction to go would help. enjoyed this site, don't feel alone any more. thanks! ken
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    The entire window/lock control assy. can be removed and a new one plugged in without too much trouble. Check the local parts yard and see if they have one for a decent price or will work something out for a trial swap to see if that is the cause. The actual switches at each position are a DPDT "snap switch" with a c-spring and contacts. The buttons can be removed and the upper cover of the switch removed with a little crotchet hook to undo each end. The covers are rather delicate though, and if you break one then you'll have to get the new unit.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    The switch modules and PCB are held into "lace curtain" runners with tabs twisted 45°. Your problem may be a bad twist or poor contact. You can take the controller out of the door panel and pry it's bottom cover off to see the twisted tabs. Just solder each 45° twist and see if that cures it. Kind of a pain, but it's free.
    BTW if you go back in this thread and see my posts you'll know I hate my '97 too :) Can't wait 'till I can afford replace it.
  • jimsxnjimsxn Posts: 108
    According to specs, it seems to be a pretty sturdy son of a gun....

    Or is this forum used for reporting problems only?
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    The heading of "Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy Problems" should be a tipoff, huh?
    : )
    Seriously, when it's running it is a great little truck. Good handling and power, lots of extras, comfy ride, etc. The problem for me is that I can't trust it or justify the expense of everything that goes wrong with it I spent over $3000 US in just over a year and there are still issues I simply leave unresolved because I'm sick of the hassle. Sending unit needs to be replaced so the gas gauge doesn't go from ¼ back up to full all by itself. Wipers work when they feel like it. Service engine light wanders on and off for a day or two every month or so. I wouldn't be so bitter if GM had backed me up but they were pathetic in every way. I will never buy another GM vehicle as long as I live, just for spite and to show them how short-sighted their strategies were (are).
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    I sympathize with those who have had quality/service problems with their Blazers and Jimmys. It was with some trepidation that we bought a new '99 Jimmy three years ago just as the 2000 models were released. I figured it was a calculated gamble. Not all of these vehicles are junk, as our experience can confirm. We had to have the head gasket replaced at 5,000 miles, which was no fun as we didn't have the vehicle for about a week, but GMC handled it under warranty and provided us with a rental. The only other problem we had under warranty was a door window lift, also replaced under warranty. A tire wear issue was resolved with simple line up. At 39,000 miles, I decided to go ahead and put on a new set of tires and keep it, as it seems to be a reliable vehicle. Factor in that this SUV cost thousands less than anything comparable, and it isn't a bad deal for (hopefully) the majority of those who bought one. The reason I post this is to give those who are considering puchasing one of these SUVs as a used vehicle a little perspective. There is every possiblity that our Jimmy will start spewing problems tomorrow, but so far, we've been lucky.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    I put over 300,000 miles on my 5 Toyotas with no problems, but couldn't afford another 4 Runner (divorce) so I tried the Jimmy. No repairs on any of the Toy trucks except for replacing a leaking radiator on my '79 'Runner at 86,000 miles, and before your Jimmy's second oil change it needed a head gasket? Good luck, really. At least your tranny hasn't been out twice already and a wheel collapse up into the wheelwell while driving. Obviously they're not all bad, but that doesn't help those of us who have been wronged.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Id say so.

    My mom, brother and I were all in her blazer yesterday stopped at a light waiting to turn left. Heard a horn went to look in the pass side mirror next thing you know my face is going for the dash (seat belt saved me). We got rearended by a newer escort (guy never hit the brakes and it was estimated 30-40mph hit). Only damage was the bumper which was dented and also pushed in and the license plate bulb cover got knocked out. The hatch works but we didnt try the liftgate (gonna wait till it goes into the bodyshop). Oh yea the guy stayed for 5 min then decided he was gonna leave. Hit & Run *%&#^&#%^#%^#^%#%^#.

    I was very impressed at how well the blazer took the rear end hit :)

    We are all a little sore but no major injuries

    I dont even want to know what would have happened if he hit my silverado (might have went under it and hit the rear diff.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,286
    That's not a great way to find out how sturdy it is! Hope everyone is ok and the soreness fades fast.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

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