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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    First guess would be a failing ignition switch. Could be some glitch in the remote start system wiring? Lots of the actual ignition switches seem to be failing though.
  • issaissa Posts: 2
    I fixed it yesterday right after placing this message. The problem was the interior dome lights had to reset and that was causing problems with the security system. Thank you for trying to help me!
  • I had the same problem about a year ago. I had to replace my intake manifold gaskets. It seems it is a common theme on the 1999 blazer. Good luck.
  • willpwillp Posts: 1
    My Jimmy has no electrical power at all. I parked it and left it over night and tried to start it in the morning--it was dead. and the interior lights were not coming on. Figuring it was a dead battery I tried a boost and still nothing and the interiors light or nothing else was coming on when the boost vehicle was connected. I then checked for blown fuses and they were all ok. I quickly touched the ends of the jumper cables together while the were connected to the battery post and there was a electrical snap when doing that. It may be noted that for a short brief time the horn was sounding about 2 hours after having shut off the vehicle after it's last run. I had tried all positions of the gear shift-(It's an automatic)and still no electrical power.
    Has anyone had any similar problems to this?
  • bartholrbartholr Posts: 1
    I am hearing/feeling a humming/vibrating noise from the front of my 98 GMC jimmy it sounds like the muffler is leaking,i had it checked but there are holes i was wondering if the gasket could be leaking. this only happens when im driving. and get louder when the truck down shift sounds like an after market muffler,it's in the flooring not the steering. i don't think it's the tranny because it is shifting fine,and the trucK has power.

    please help if you can any advice is welcome
  • rankinrankin Posts: 2
    I have a 97 4wd Jimmy and need to put in new upper control arm bushings. Can I do it on the vehicle, or do I need to take the arm clear off to press in the new bushings.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    They come off first:

    4WD Vehicles

    Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
    Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
    Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the retaining nut.
    After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
    Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607 or equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle. Disengage the tool and the retaining nut, then remove the joint from the knuckle.

    The 4WD vehicles covered by this information do not use shims to adjust the front wheel alignment. Instead, the upper control arm bolts are equipped with cams, which are rotated to achieve caster and camber adjustments. In order to preserve adjustment and ease installation, matchmark the cams to the control arm before removal. If the control arm is being replaced, transfer the alignment marks to the new component before installation.

    Unfasten the front and rear nuts retaining the control arm retaining bolts to the frame, then remove the outer cams from the bolts.
    Remove the bolts and inner cams, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
    If necessary, remove the retaining nut and the bumper from the control arm.
    If the bushings are being replaced, use a suitable bushing service set to remove the bushings from the arm.

    To install:

    If removed, use the bushing service set to drive the new bushings into the control arm.
    If removed, install the bumper and retaining nut to the control arm. Tighten the bumper retaining nut to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    Position the control arm to the vehicle, then install the retaining bolts (from the inside of the frame brackets facing outward) and the inner cams. The inner cams must be positioned on the bolts before they are inserted through the control arm and frame brackets.
    Position the outer cams over the retaining bolts, then install the nuts to the ends of the bolts at the front and rear of the control arm.
    Align the cams to the reference marks made earlier, then tighten the end nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the nuts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models and 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) on 1995-99 models. Install a new cotter pin.
    When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
    Install the tire and wheel assembly.
    Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
    Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.
  • rich25rich25 Posts: 6
    I am hearing a humming sound on my 1997 jimmy GMC and it seems that the sound is coming from under the vehicle, but i'm not quite sure if it is from the engine because you can hear it loudly when you listen to the under the vehicle near the rear tires. The sound happens all the time when the engine is on/idling or the car is running.

    Has anyone have a problem like this, can someone give me an idea what causes the problem. I don't have problem with the tranny or pull/power of the vehicle.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the gas cap and listen in. If it's louder, it's the fuel pump. Don't leave it running too long with the cap off, might set an EVAP code.
  • rich25rich25 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info alcan but I still got the humming sound. I wasn't able to say earlier that the humming sound only happens during the hot environment, because when i go to work in the morning with about 40degF outside temperature the humming sound is not there. But during noon when we have about 65degF outside temperature that's the time I can hear the humming sound and it's really annoying.
  • weekieweekie Posts: 1
    The service 4WD service light on my 2000 Jimmy comes on intermittently. I took it to a transmission place and they can't find anything wrong with it. They are not getting any error codes. I'm down in Florida now and will be returning home to NJ in about 6 weeks and am concerned about the transmission on the long ride home. Anyone else have this problem and know how to deal with it?
  • I recommend you have your present battery throughly checked for static voltage and voltage under load. While touching the positive and negative jumper cables together is ill advised, it should have resulted in more than a "snap". It would have been a more memorable event with a fully charged battery. If your battery is OK, cable connections should be checked, cleaned, and torqued. Although you examined your obvious fuses, there is a battery fuse (175 amp)located under the battery. It is bolted to the radiator support panel (the battery must be removed to access it). All voltage to your underhood fuse box and dash fuse box goes through the battery fuse. The connections at the battery fuse should be clean and snug. The blowing horn symptom is an uncertain one. However, low battery voltage to the computer (Powertrain Control Module)can result in random toots and rings.
  • mtreesemtreese Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer, recently when driving, when I push the door lock button- it locks all doors except driver doorlock- yet if the key is out of ignition it will lock all. Also, my dome light (when opening doors) wont go on, unless I manually do it. When I turn the car off, the radio and windows would still work for about 30 seconds or until I opened the door- they no longer work when the key is removed. Any ideas? I did check the fuses, they are fine. Please help!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    First guess would be a defective left front door ajar switch or a broken wire in the conduit between the body and left front door.
  • My 96 Blazer started making a chirping sound when the wheels were rolling, and the smell of brakes grew stronger every day for the past month. We took it to two mechanics who said nothing was wrong. Then, this week, I started getting all kinds of grinding sounds that shook the vehicle when I used the brakes, and they would stick when I started to move again.

    I took it in to the shop today, and they thought it was a dead caliper on a front rotor. So they replaced it, but it still had the same problems. They said it must be the ABS brakes and I would have to take it to a Chevy dealer. That's usually an expensive way to go so I would like to know if anyone out there has experience with this. I saw a similar post from 2003 in which they paid $1,500, but they didn't mention any alternatives. Thanks.
  • lkaiserlkaiser Posts: 1
    S-10 Blazer, 4wd, 5 spd. I can't seem to get at the second one on the drivers side. Please help.
  • I have a 99 2 door blazer. A few weeks ago my gas guage read that it had no gas and i had just filled up and for about a week it would bounce from completly full to empty. Now after 3 weeks it always just says low fuel and says its on empty. I've heard it could be a bad ground, blown fuses, or sensor, but im not sure. Also my front right wheel when I gradually turn left to merge a lain or whenever the wheel hardly goes to the left it makes a buzzing noise like the wheel is rubbing the wheel well is what it sounds like. Not to sure on that one either, but any help would be greatly appriciated, thanks.
  • mo2mo2 Posts: 1
    I have an issue with my 94 2WD Blazer in which the ABS light ignites, the speedometer stops working, and the truck will not switch gears unless I do so manually and yet will not go into OD at all. The computer diagnosis mentions a speed sensor, which I have replaced to no avail. I have noticed, at times, if I hit a bump at the correct speed, the ABS light remains ignited, my speedometer will come to life and I can put it into OD with the tranny switching perfectly. That is until I hit another bump. Hence, I have come to the conclusion, this has to be a sensor on the wheel/axle itself. Unfortunately, although I am familiar with the mechanics of a vehicle, I've no knowledge of an ABS system. Reading your post may have shed some light onto my situation. 'The left side abs sensor gave out $60 from dealer only.'
    Would you be so kind to tell me more of this ABS sensor and maybe where I can find more info on the installation of such..?

    Thanx plenty, in advanced.
  • temokutemoku Posts: 1
    I've got a strange problem. Everything works fine on my 96 chevy blazer except when I put it in 4WD white smoke comes out the tail pipe. I've heard it has something to do with the vacuum controls and leaking transfer case fluid but i don't know too much about the transfer case. I recently checked the transfer case and it was completely full with fluid far above the inspection hole, any advice?
  • back ground: purchased 113k,mild rough low idle,got worst after every oil change- then 200-300 miles got better so let sleeping dogs sleep.About 145k, doing about 60mph and sudden engine skipping and sputtering and service engine light comes on- but before I can get off freeway the light goes out and engine returns to normal-only the low idle is rougher, nothing open to check the codes-later that night car is stolen,good news got the car back 3 weeks later with 2500 miles added(interior wrecked). while away the battery was replaced,knee deep in mud(its 2wd drive and they go mud bogging). running like a bad skip, no codes, so I figure why not a tune-up and let them tell me whats wrong-but I took it for a quick oil change on the way(replaced the battery with a new bigger one), and have the fuel filter replaced as well.90% of the skip is gone(cool),replace the PCV valve an another 5% is gone. So I guessed the tune-up should knock out the rest,as I get off the freeway-the car stalls,cranks back up no problem except it stalls on low idle repeatily. Tune-up shop can't get to it til next day,while waiting was talking with techie and mention the oil pressure gauge dropping to about 25 before stalling out, and he mentions to light of oil being used and engine will stall to protect the engine from damage. I go home and change the oil to 2 quarts 30/ 2 quarts 40,leave the oil filter with 1/2 quart. Bam its running at the low idle rough again,no stalling(oil pressure at 45 to 40 low idle). But the next day after the engine warms up (20 mins) the stall is back,only when hot..Take it for tune up and tech calls me back,no tune up needed,it had fresh platinum plugs and no carbon.suggest fuel injection service OK done..runs good til engine warms up and stalls sitting still(its worst). Luckily Chevy Dealership 2 blocks away,explain all this in detail to service writer(low idle is at about 550rpm-stalls at 500) I mention this to him and ask if the idle can be increased "No.controlled by computer" (later found the adjustment screw on throttle body,myself-but haven't adjusted it yet).Next day tech calls and said it needs a fuel pump,ok how much..$956.00 installed,jumped out of my skin.."how do you know it needs one", I tapped on the bottom of the gas tank and it changed hums."Is there anyway to check the pump"..no its in the tank,have to remove it to check it.Paid the $80 fee(decided to buy a book and check the procedure to replace it myself,guess what has a procedure to check the pressure in-line with factory specs)..but guess what its reached the 200-300 mile mark and the stall is gone, and light rough idle only is back. It's been 2500 miles and the oil change is coming soon...I have researched several things and they include EGR needs to be cleaned/replaced? Idle Control Valve needs to be replaced? The computer needs to be replaced(changed the battery 2 times and it has become un-programmed(it has learned it self but was not reset with VIN#)? The oil sending switch is bad(or the oil pump is bad) and causing the engine to stall?,Distributor shaft is warped?..Now I will be happy to entertain some real advice, from ya'll..you have the facts,let me know what you think..By the way,with the Blazer having so many problems,why has there been no recalls (deep pockets in DC?)???

    p.s. still no codes, and the check engine light does not come on every time, when the the ignition switch is turned on-before cranking. Low idle is at 600rpms,sometimes a little lower.
  • crewsecrewse Posts: 1
    1999 Blazer 4x4 4dr. I am having the same problem. My gas gage is appears to be accurate, until about 1/3 tank left, then it jumps around from LOW FUEL light to FULL!!!!

    My initial thought was that if I get a fuel system service (new pump, filter, cleaning,etc) that maybe it would help, but I haven't donethat. I'm interested to know what might be causing this and how to fix it.

    Thanks!
  • alanpsalanps Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same issue on my Jimmy - did you get this resolved. Would be grateful for any advice!
    Thanks
    Alan
  • maxdzynmaxdzyn Posts: 1
    It's a bear. I went to Sears and bought a set of box end ratchets with a swivel (about $60). Will probably cost you the same to get a mechanic to change just the one plug..but check it out. Wrenches got the job done...used 3/4" that fit over the drive on the spark plug socket..barely. Had only enough room to ratchet one or two clicks at a time because of steering dampener/heatshields around manifold. Had to go through splash cover in wheel well. Good luck
  • rich25rich25 Posts: 6
    It seem that the fuel pump of my Jimmy 1997 is humming and I'm wondering if it needs replacement as soon as possible because at this time it is still out of budget for me and I'm planning to take a long drive about 500 miles within this month. What are the possible issues I may encounter when the fuel pump is humming?

    I will greatly appreciate any advice... Thanks...
  • There are test you can do to determine if pump is ok, according to the Haynes Repair Manual #24071..it includes a in-line pressure check, and vacumn check..if you check my story,mine hums to 2 tunes(according to dealer tech),thats been 2500 miles so far..if worried about the trip, why not rent a car,beats the cost of pump or tow bill back. Option 2:I found a new pump(AC DELCO) that will fit mine on eBay for $165 plus shipping, also found a junkyard that will replace it for $100 (NOTE: R&R men for junkyards get paid a salary regardless of amount of work done- so owners will deal on repair work to keep the workers working and get their money's worth out of them, small yards work best with this idea), but I have yet to replace mine,because car doesn't mis-perform at other speeds beside low idle..in fact it is a great running car at any other speed, so my 99 Blazer can sing as longs as it wants too,but I will keep it local til someone helps with idea on the low idle problem..of course I drive 100-300 miles daily in my Blazer.
  • rich25rich25 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice man, I really appreciate. You gave me a good idea where to find a cheaper parts because the parts at gmc are pricey. Hope that humming won't cause me trouble at all because the drive of my jimmy is not affected at all, it still runs great without any problem. I believe in the capability of my truck and I love this vehicle although there are lots of people out there that encounters problems with their jimmy/blazer. Good Luck...
  • My problem sounds similar to this. My 2001 4wd Blazer with 57k miles, slight humming noise driving straight done the road. If I make a slight curve or lane change to the right it turns into a louder grinding noise and I can feel a vibration in the foot well. I thought and the mechanic seems to agree that this sounds like the wheel bearing. Local shop wants $558 to replace both front bearings. Dealer wants $800 for both. The dealer charges $338 for each bearing assembly and the local parts store only wanted $183.00 The cost is that the bearing comes in the hub assembly and also includes the ABS sensor.

    I have only had this car for 6 months and so far the problems are adding up rapidly.

    First Week - Coolant Temp Sensor $87.00 @Dealer.

    Speedometer stops working after driving for an hour. Dealer estimates over $300 to chase down the problem in the instrument cluster.

    Windshield broke after 2 months. $330 @ Dealer $179 at auto glass shop.

    Exterior body trim is now falling off as well.

    Now the wheel bearings.
  • Before you do anything you may want to drop your skid plate to the ground and check for coolant on top of it... only six bolts hold it in place.

    If you smell coolant then it must be hitting the exhaust somehow...

    which indicates to me that you should be looking a little closer at your water pump.

    Ive replaced several before and usually the reason for replacing them was a customer complaint of losing coolant slowly.

    hope I could help.
    MobiusDiesil
  • Have you tried going throgh the wheel well with your wrench? maybe an extension for it?

    #2 plug isn't that hard to get at through the wheel well.
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