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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lwest3lwest3 Posts: 2
    Yes that seems to be what i was told. Reverse went COMPLETELY out and the gears are messed up... It will cost me about 1900 to fix - I bought this vehicle so I wouldn't have to worry about problems... especially with less then 65000 miles. If there are so many problems with them... why are they not recalled? Doesn't GMC want our "customer loyalty"?
    I have replaced the ignition swith, muffler as well as exhaust system... and now this...
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    found out the hard way that these aren't the vehicles to depend on-spent over $3000 in one 12 mo. period before it even had 60k miles on it. First (and last ever) non-Toyota vehicle since '76. Fool me once............
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    2000 Blazer has vibration/shimmy at between 61 to 67 MPH. It begins at the middle of the vehicle (near the transmission area) then moves outward towards the front end. When cornering, the shudder gets worse. It is inconsistent at best. In colder weather, the vehicle does not do it. In weather above 65 it becomes progressively worse and is most consistent at 75 degrees. The uneven shudder can be felt alot on the passenger side floor board. Have already tried 2 different sets of tires, wheel bearing on passenger side, rear pinion seal and gear. Was all done under warranty, however, is now out of warranty.
    After reading stuff on this message board, I am having serious buyer's remorse. Hope someone out there can be of help. Thanks!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    u-joint bad?
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    ryanbab - thanks for opinion. Any reason why you feel that it may be the u-joints? Just curious? I was leaning towards unbalanced drive train, however, it also sounded like the problem another person had at 11,700 miles and had the whole rear end replaced, because the vibration is uneven and feels out of round when it does it. The vehicle currently has 51000 on it. Appreciate any further insights into possible solutions. Thanks!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Is there any noise like a squeeking?

    The problem sounds kinda like a U-Joint especially if you have 50K miles.

    Do you have your tires balanced? Could also be that
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    No sqeaking noises. Tires have been road force balanced and smooth as silk. The vibrations starts in the transmission area and is not felt in the wheel. The whole vehicle shakes when the vibration starts. It is worse in warmer weather. For example, today, it was 84 degrees and the shaking started at as low as 55MPH, and was remotely felt beginning at around 35 - 50 MPH. And feels really shaky while cornering.
    It is customary to have to replace u-joints on these vehicles at such low mileage?
    I used to own a Nissan Pathfinder, and had them replaced at 95000K and that was only a precautionary measure, due to long trips to Florida to care for my ill father. It really didn't need them when I did it.
    Thanks for your input and any further you might have.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    i doubt this is the problem but what about an unbalanced/bent driveshaft?
  • wayneawaynea Posts: 4
    Hi,
    I have a 2000 Blazer 2dr 4WD. At 32,000 mi the right front hub / bearing assembly had to be replaced at 35,000 the left front. Asked service manager if this was usual problem and if I was looking at this every 30,000 miles. He said no that this was just chance. Of course now at 66,000 right front needs replacement again (and I'll bet left in 2,000 more miles). First repair was under warranty so now they want to charge $555.00 for the repair. All service gets done at the dealer so they are usually pretty good about treating me well but they don't want to budge on this one. Will going to GM get me anything other than more angry? To top it off they say that if the first repair wasn't under warranty then this one would be free because it is a lifetime part. Of course at the same time they noticed the oil cooler lines starting to seep again which were also replaced under warranty. Based on the amount of posts about these problems I can't believe that GM isn't doing something about them.

    Also has anyone done the wheel bearing repair themselves? I see the part is about $160.00 so I was thinking about doing it myself. Is it a hard repair? How about the front ball joint? (they tell me that is loose as well) I was going to get the Chilton's manual and see if that was in there.

      Thanks,
        Wayne
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    My moms truck (00 blazer) has about 28K and a few wks ago had it in for the drivers side wheel bearing. Went bad and she was out of warranty. Cost to fix was like $400 something. My dad called and talked to customer service (my suggestion) and they went half on the fix so we had to pay like $200 something. Pretty bad if you ask me a wheel bearing only lasting 28K?

    It was abou 5 months out of warranty
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    I was thinking the same thing or possibly the hubs like on discussion #702 by Wayne. Although he does not discuss what the Blazer does (the symptoms that lead to the problems) that leads him to feel he has to re do the hubs again.
     I will be making the long trip back down to the dealer where I bought it last November (300 miles one way). The service manager says that GM probably won't warranty the shimmey, although it has been a problem with the vehicle since the first warm day over 60 degrees. However, one bit of good news, the service manager did say that they would cover the engine oil cooler lines. So this discussion has been most helpful in getting some things warrantied that might not have been if I wasn't made aware of them.
    Thanks for your help. Michelle
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I got mine replaced out of warranty also for free. The Blazer had 44k miles and was over the 36 months by 6 months when the work was done. The SUV now has 84k miles. I had many problems during the warranty period. Have only had to replace the waterpump at 64k since. Still, way too many problems and low quality. I had to use expanding foam on all interior panels to keep them from rattling. Resale value is really low.

    On the plus side, the engine runs great with no tune-ups, the transmission has been excellent, and has the SUV has survived 3 accidents. The engine is the best part of this SUV and could be the best in any mid SUV. Mine is running 7.61 sec 0 to 60! Amazing and get 19 mpg avg and 22 on the highway! I really drive this SUV hard on and off road. The low ground clearance is a problem and the skid plates/frame take a beating. I did not want to pay the price for a Toyota and still not sure I would. The 4runner would have cost me 10k more at the time and had a wimpy 3.4 V-6 (not acceptable).
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    I can relate to the Toyota issue. After all the bad things I read in this area I started wondering if my Blazer would last very long, so I went and looked at a Toyata 4 runner yesterday. I was not impressed for the money. Had a very outdated interior and with only 29000 miles on it, I felt the ride was not near as good as the Blazer, even with the Blazer's vibration. AND guess what else the Toyota did, at the same speeds the Blazer does, the Toyota has a shudder. So, I kindly told the salesperson, no thanks! I can keep my shaking Blazer, which has more creature comforts and gives me the shaking for $6000 less than the toyota.
    I agree with you on the engine of the Blazer. Mine runs like a champ. Great power in a crunch, a little slow on the hills of Missouri, however, just hit the gas pedal and off it goes! I really like the push button 4 wheel drive! That was really great when we had all the snow here during the winter months.
    I also have the rattling door trim pieces. I thought about doing the same thing that you discussed. How well did it work for you? All that rattling drives me nuts!
    I also agree with you on the quality issue. I have had several repair issues both during the warranty period and still working on one in particular. However, I have to wonder with so many of them on the road, they can't all be bad.
    I am really hoping that this will be the last trip to where I bought it and the rest will be routine maintenance. I am in real estate and must have a dependable vehicle. Take Care! God Bless! Michelle
  • tbaybuctbaybuc Posts: 3
    Thought you might like to hear my story.I am sure it sounds like every ones.
    I bought my wife a 2000 Jimmy (62000 miles) 40 days ago. On day one I complained about a vibration at 60mph and higher. They put on new tires and said the problem was solved. It wasn't.
    Took it back and they rotated and re balanced the tires, said the rest was normal because it is auto 4 wheel drive so the front drive shaft always turns and causes the vibration, shop foreman signed off on it again. I was not buying the excuse and asked the foreman to take a ride with me. After doing so he changed his mind and admitted it was not normal.I put it back in the shop for 6 days and they say they replaced the rear drive shaft fix a muffler hanger replaced a tranny mount and replaced the front right wheel bearing adjusted the drive angle checked all the wheels, U joints ball joints etc... They then told me that they pulled the front drive shaft and the vibration was still present. This tells me that the first excuse about it being caused by the auto 4 wheel drive was bull. Picked it up and to my surprised the shop fore again said it was fixed. It was not. I just wrote GMC a letter telling them about the situation and asking what do I have to do now. This is all covered under the 30day dealer warranty so it is all free, and will continue to be.
    I should have bought an explorer
    they also changed the oil coolant lines because of a leak.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    I did read some of the postings you had earlier. Thank you for putting them all in one condensed area today. I have had most of the same issues taken care of on my Blazer, with the exception of the last set of repairs you had. Unfortunately, my 30 days at the dealer was up last December and now the vehicle has 52000K. However, I was back at the dealer 4 times by the end of January trying to get the same issue fixed. Mine seems to be the worse in the warmer weather. In the cold, no vibration exists. Once things heat up, it is definetly present. I am hoping that when I go back to the dealer this time, they will find it. When it starts shaking it feel like the whole front end will fall apart at any given moment. I did not buy the "its a 4WD" either. I owned a Nissan pathfinder prior to this, 4WD, with 154,000K and never experienced the kind of shaking that I do on the blazer.
    So, do you think I would have some recourse if I did write GM? By reading some of the other articles, it sounded like GM just didn't care and wouldn't do anything.
    I put my previous repair order to the dealer in writing which explained the shaking, and while it was still under GM's certified warranty.
    Michelle
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    This is not normal even for this SUV. Are you in autotrac when this happens? In 4wd? After hitting a bump? If not in 4wd, does setting 4wd stop it? Does putting on the brakes a slight bit stop the problem? Does shifting to 3 during the problem stop it? Does downshifting under power stop it? I have read a few posts somewhere GM had to add a class 3 hitch to solve a similar problem. One other thing, the front half shafts turn all the time on this SUV regardless of the 4wd switch, could be a problem with those.

    Anything you can test or do to help solve the problem will help the dealer to find the cause.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    Thanks for all of the input. I have noticed that putting the Blazer into 4WD Lo only, has seemed to stop the vibrating for a short period. However, it is very short lived. Today, while driving the blazer, after using 4 HI, about an hour later of constant driving, the transmission had two harder shifts(jerks) felt from the transmission going from 3 to 4th, then about 5 minutes later another hard shift, however, this time it was felt in the rear axle area. First time it has done that! After it parking it for about an hour, everything was smooth as it was before in the tranny and axle area. I will have to try the other tests you spoke of to see if any of that seems to change the shaking. Thanks for the input on other issues to check before my trip to the dealer on Monday. Michelle
  • peterson33peterson33 Posts: 24
    I have written several times about problems with my '96 Blazer, 4dr, 4wd. I brought it in a year ago because of vibration at highway speeds. This baby REALLY shakes. They repaced my lower ball joints for about $500. It didn't help.

    On this forum, I was told that GM would replace the upper ball joints no charge. I had the upper ball joints replaced and still have the vibration.

    Also on this forum, I was told that it is possible to get reimbursed for the lower ball joints. I called GM cust serv and they were not much help. I called the dealer and they said they would reimburse me. What a shocker.

    I'm going to see if a different dealer can fix the vibration/shimmy. I will first try the diagnostics discussed above. The thing that bothers me is that the dealer never tested the vehicle after proclaiming it fixed with the lower and then upper ball joints.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    After reading some of the posts on this site, I picked up on someone mentioning Alldata.com and the Technical bulletins available there. I paid the $24.95 to access the specific articles found on my 00 Blazer. I found one on Shudder from the transaxle/drive train area and went into the dealer armed with that. That is where most of my vibrations/shuddering comes from and at highway speeds above 75MPH the vibration is the whole trans axle shaking up and down, almost like an unbalanced tire however, the vibration is not felt in the wheel it can be seen in shaking things in the console area on the floor. The bulletin mentioned a computer test that the dealership can do which checks the rotation speed of the transaxle as opposed to the drive train. Apparently if the rotations are not equal in revolutions, it causes vibrations/shudders in the transaxle area. It also causes premature clutch wear in the transaxle. I told the dealer that I wanted that test performed because I feel that the problem may well be from the above described condition.
    You might want to go to alldata.com and get the Technical Service bulletins for your specific year model, which may shed some light on what is going on with your Blazer.
    I also made it clear that this was an ongoing problem and that I expected GM to cover the repair. We will see how far that gets me. I also made it clear that if they were unable to fix the vehicle, that I was prepared to talk with the owner of the dealership to take the vehicle back. I did not spend this kind of money to have an uncomfortable and shakey vehicle. I must say though, the dealership that I bought mine at is in Oklahoma, and they have been really good about trying to make things right. If people can get over the Blazer/Jimmy problems and want a different kind of Chevy/GMC, I would highly recommend this dealer. They have really tried to do everything in their power to fix this vehicle. Hopefully, this time will be the last time and I can return to a routine maintenance schedule for the vehicle.
    Good luck on your endeavors with your 96 Blazer. Michelle
  • gmcdrivergmcdriver Posts: 6
    I have a 1998 Jimmy I recently purchased. I have been reading all the issues about ball joints failing early. Which years were most affected? How can you tell if they need to be replaced? Are there any kind of wear indicators? GM used to have the feature where the boss the grease nipple was screwed into would recede into the ball joint as they wore; however this is not the case on mine. I have jacked the vehicle up and noted some movement in the ball joints (guessing 1/64" or 1/32" on lower ball joint). Is this normal?
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