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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info poison! It's a 1997 Blazer.
     
    Battery terminals are clean and tight. Also, EGR, fuel pump, and fuel filter were all recently replaced and are still good.

    I'll look into the u-joint and force balance fixes. I also have had the ball joints (not covered-wrong VIN) and idler arm replaced. Need to investigate pitman arm. I recently did the transfer case, differentials, and a full brake job and hit all of those lube points. They looked pretty good.
  • pbr1pbr1 Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Blazer and have a problem with the outside temperature indicator. The reading is way off the actual temperature but the compass works just fine. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed the problem without even looking at it. They said a new unit is required (approximately $400). Based upon the quick diagnosis I assume that this is a common problem. Someone with a GM truck said that it may be possible to correct the problem by replacing the sensor / thermocouple. Has anyone had a similar problem. Is it possible that there could be a relatively inexpensive fix? Any information about this problem is appreciated.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    I'm amazed at some of the things I hear. I bought my '98 Blazer just two months ago. An off-lease model that was babied. But the dealership only put new tires on the driver side and it pulled to the right until I got both matched tires on the front. I have that slight shudder at 67mph too but it's not bad. I can live with it. But I actually came here looking for answers to the wiper delay problem. Lo-and behold I find it. Guess I'll have to look into the recall. Anyone know what years are included? I'm fairly pleased with my Blazer but this can be a bugger in Texas storms. mine come back on by themselves or if you hit the mist or put it in continuous high. But continuous low has the most problems. Most times it just stops at the bottom but once it stopped with the wipers straight up.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    The reading is way off the actual temperature ...

    I'm curious. Just how far off was it and how did you determine it was off?

    tidester, host
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    I have done the road force balance 3 times, to no avail. I really wish that would have fixed it. I really like the creature comforts of my Blazer, however, I do not like the shudder. During the winter time it is not even apparent. So, it truly remains a mystery to me as to why it does what it does.

    Polymas - My 2000 Blazer stalled once in reverse, while the weather was cooler outside, however, has not done it since.

    I remember reading somewhere in this post, two things that might cause the stalling:

    One was the ignition switch which supposedly would not show a trouble code.

    The other was an oxgen sensor.

    My local dealer also told me that they have a lot of trouble with the EGR valves in the newer models and sometimes get bad ones even when replaced as. Apparently they get clogged up quite easily and the dealer has to clean them out or replace them. The EGR will show a trouble code even after a light goes on then shuts off. An EGR valve can be quite difficult to diagnose, as it will cause a vehicle to run great for a while, then out of the blue will create problems while it is idling, or driving at highway speeds.
    Might want to have your dealer re -check the EGR and make sure it is functioning properly.
    Take Care! God Bless!
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    OK I've gone back and read almost the entire thread. And I've got a handle on what things to look out for. But so far my '98 seems to not exibit most of the problems people list. Sure, as I said above, I have the common wiper problem. And I'm keeping an eye on those oil coolant lines. As well as the tranny dipstick tube. But for now only the wipers are a (minor) Problem. I thought I had the shudder problem until I rotated the tires to match. But I'm basically pleased with my SUV. Thing is I read people getting 17 or 19mpg as good. I'm getting roughly 23mpg. It this exceptional or average? My blazer is a lease buy-back and looks like it was babied. It even had the Mr. Goodwrench sticker on the windshield that showed when the next oil change was due (which was last month). Could it be I got a rare jem or are the people who write here about catistrophic problems a minority. Personally I'd recommend this SUV if someone asked me. At least this list gives me a line of things to keep an eye on.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    The wiper fix is free. Your local dealer is suppose to replace the circuit board at no cost. Of course ask 1st, cuz there are some unscrupulous dealers out there. Also recommend flushing coolant every 2 years. LOL.
  • mths66mths66 Posts: 1
    Thursday, at 65057 miles on my 2001 Jimmy the reverse gear failed. I was about one mile from home so after being pushed back from the curb at McDonald's I limped home. The transmission shop gave me an estimate of $1700 - $1800.

    Based on other messages, I am now a member of a not so exclusive club.

    I've driven GM vehicles since 1976. This is the first major problem.
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    Well, Looks like like it was the ignition module. Since I replaced that I have had no stalls at all and the Blazer starts right up at a flick of the key, just like it used to. Easy replacement with two screws; it is located on the top of the engine attached to the coil.
  • I'm sure some of you remember a while back I had some problems with my Blazer when my oil lines blew, and then I had to get a new crankshaft and main bearings put in. Well that repair failed and the dealership will not cover it, I'm about 5 months and 14,000 miles over their 12/12000 warranty, so I'm putting a rebuilt engine in. It's by ATK Engines, $1699 for the engine and only a grand for the install, my brothers mechanic is hooking me up with a decent price on the install. Is the rebuilt going to be just as good as the original motor I had in there? Would it be worthwhile for me to use Mobil 1 after I break it in? Also, my truck is out in Denver right now, thats where it broke down. I'm flying out there to pick it up as soon as it in ready to go, probably sometime late next week or early the week after that. I have to drive it back to Chicago immedialty, how should I break in the engine on the trip? I have to start towing my jetski after probably about 1500 miles on the engine, and the drive to Chicago from Denver is about 1000 miles. I've heard I should vary the RPMs and not use cruise control, if I can time it right I'm going to stop off at like a Jiffy Lube or the like in Omaha and get the oil changed out because that should be at about 500 miles.

    Any advice would be appritiated.

    Joe
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    While changing the A/C accumulator on my wife's 96 Blazer I noticed pieces of the evaporator housing had broken out. When I touched the area more pieces fell off. The entire housing is brittle and falling apart. No one other than myself has ever worked on this vehicle and no chemicals have been used in the engine compartment that would contribute to the condition. The engine has never been washed. The vehicle is garaged and only has 60,000 miles. The housing is only about $100 but I'll probably replace the evaporator at the same time.
       Last week I replaced the right wheel speed sensor for an anti-lock failure. The left one failed last November. The dealer had them in stock both times. Could it be that there is a problem with them????
       My wife keeps her Blazer immaculate and really likes it so I guess I'll keep fixing it. Beats payments!!!
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    The only thing is that I bought mine used, an off-lease unit. Will this affect their willingness to replace the board? Is there anything online I can download (like the TSB) that I can show the sales/or service guy about this? If I can get them to replace it I'd be jazzed. I basically pleased with my blazer.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    Just noticed one thing. The recall stops with 1997 vehicles. You'll probably have to pay for it on your '98. I received a letter in February 2003 referred to as a campaign, not a recall. The campaign# is C02054 for replacement the windshield wiper motor controller circuit board if I had experienced wipers that worked intermittently or not at all. I had this trouble, which the dealer took care of in about 10 minutes. The letter does not state you have to be an original owner, but rather just the owner. The letter states that owners will get special warranty coverage within 7 years of the date the vehicile was originally placed into service or 70,000 miles, whichever occurs first, OR, for vehicles currently outside of this coverage, until February 2004. The condition will be repaired at no charge & must be performed by a Chevrolet dealer. Any ?'s contact your dealer or Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. If I had a scanner I'd post it. Later this turned into a recall. Fyi - my 1997 Blazer also known as an S-10.

    You can always complain to the NHTSA. You might be reimbursed down the road if enuf folks have the same issue. Changing it takes 5 minutes. Its a circuit board on the back of your wiper motor. Easy to do. When I replaced the same part on my '91 K10 is cost $60. Probably not much more now. You can try the dealer anyway as GM may know more than is publicly known.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.c- - - - - - - - - - - fm

    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 03V159000 Recall Date : APR 28, 2003
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    The NHTSA link I posted is strictly for recalls. You can also see "complaints" on that website by clicking on it & inputting your vehicle info. You can also go to Chevrolet.com owners link at

    http://www.chevrolet.com/gmnav/owners/index.html

    & register your vehicle there. This might get you on a mailing list for any current &/or future problems.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    Yeah, that's what I thought. I've seen the NHTSA site and couldn't find anything for the '98. I priced the whole motor and mine is $78. Gonna take a look at the circuit tonight. I read in here that someone fixed theirs by resoldering the connections. If that's all it is I can fix that. Funny thing, my dad has a Geo Prism and it has the same problem I asked him to look at the motor and it has a similar looking motor. Maybe a bigger problem for GM. with such an easy fix why couldn't they just include all vehicles (rhetorical)?
  • pbr1pbr1 Posts: 3
    When I first noticed the problem the reading was off by 10 or 20 degrees based upon the radio temperature or the temperature posted by a local bank. When the temperatuer is 60 or so and the gauge is reading 80 its pretty obvious that something is wrong. The gauge is now reading well over a 120 degrees.
  • dale3n8dale3n8 Posts: 3
    I just bought a 99 Jimmy with 58,000 miles on it. When you mash the gas pedal, the thing takes off, but there is a bad vibration/shudder that shakes the mirrors. It just seems like it is not getting the power to the ground, like there is something slipping somewhere. It has been back to the dealer several times, where they claim to have replaced the driveshaft, run the engine on the computer, put injector cleaner in it, with no luck. To me this is in the tranny or the transfer case. Please help! I'm getting near the end of the used car warrantee and this thing still isn't fixed.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    Many of us have experienced the same problem you have and have made several trips to our dealer, all to no avail. Mine does the the same thing both taking off on a hard acceleration and while at highway speeds has a shudder coming out of the transfer case/tranny area. We have all hoped for solutions and gotten none. My dealer told me that what I felt was normal for a 4 wheel drive Blazer.
    If you find a solution at your dealer, let the rest of us know.
    So far most of us have given up and just decided to keep driving the vehicle or like peterson33 said, he traded in his "washing Machine" (Blazer/Jimmy) for something better. That so far seems to be the only solution.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    cage47-Have you talked to your dealer about the wiper being covered under the Service Bulletin? It's possible that they can work something out. If your condition is bad enough to happen often there is an easy test. When the wipers are refusing to come on there will usually be a buzzing noise coming from the wiper motor area. Leave the wipers turned on and raise the hood as gently as you can to avoid jarring anything. Press gently on the connector where the wiring harness plugs into the wiper motor assy and see if you can get the wipers to go on/off by pressure in different directions. If so it is probably the board. The pressure on the connector is flexing the PC board and making the intermittant connection. It lead many folks (and dealers) to suspect a bad pin/socket in the connector at first, and much time and $ was wasted before it became common knowledge of the board problem.
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    I've read many posts about the vibration in Blazer/Jimmy models and am leary about being sucked into the void of never-ending parts replacement in fear of not solving the problem.

    Unless I didn't do a good search, I didn't read anything about the transfer case itself. Could this be it? Also, has anyone heard of "Grand Am G/T multi-mile" tires? I bought my Blazer used (it didn't vibrate then) and these tires were on it. They've been rotated and re-balanced, but the shake is still there. Could these tires just be junk? A Google search yielded no reviews for the tire.
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