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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • deputy2deputy2 Posts: 2
    I bought my 2002 TB from a dealership 6 mos. ago. No problems, really enjoying the car. At 43k it started acting up... would not start sometimes, all instrumentation would "pulsate erratically" but the battery ran a 11 volt test on load. I bought a new battery, things were great for a week, then, the same thing.
    It died on the freeway and would not start, guages crazy again. My mechanic put a new ignition switch in, but I'm not sure...... I read someone else had the same problem. Chevy dealer said they were "working on a solution?......
  • tmbjtmbj Posts: 1
    When making tight slow turns when the 4 wheel drive is engaged the wheels bind to the point that it will stop the vehicle. It was like this when new but is getting to the point that you feel the wheel(s) clunk.
    1999 Blazer original owner.
    Any Ideas?
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Thanks for your advice to sell my Blazer before trouble starts. I honestly think that it is a good piece of advice. I would have spent over $1,000 dollars for repairs (bad ball joints and turning signal noise), which actually cost me only $200 due to the extended warranty. Who knows how much it will cost me to fix problems after my extended warranty expires in 2006. Perhaps I will have to decide whether or not to keep my Blazer by then.
  • dbkovachdbkovach Posts: 1
    I have a 99 blazer and everything is going wrong. first of all when i get to about 50 mph, after its warmed up it like jerks while driving, only when im trying to go a steady speed. you can see the rmp gauge going up n down. its getting really scary. next problem. when i engage it in four wheel drive, it jerks really really bad, then someones it doesnt even disengage when i press the 2hi button. it feels like something is stuck in the front. 3rd problem when driving normally there is always a clicking noise. i have no idea what to do about any of this. please help.
  • cfrasercfraser Posts: 1
    I have a 94 s15 Jimmy 2wd 4.3 vortec. I' trying to find the oil pressure switch which if not functioning will stop fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated.

    Craig
  • dojolydojoly Posts: 2
    I think my Jimmy is making the same noise. Sounds like a relay clicking on and off...on and off...sometimes worse than others.
    I also have been searching for it for a while & tonite found that it was coming from an electrical box behind the passenger side kick panel. Not sure what the box does, but now I can identify it to the mechanic. Sure was hard to find!!!
    Does anyone know what this box does? Can't find it in the Haynes manual.
    Thanks!
  • dojolydojoly Posts: 2
    The relay noise you are hearing is coming from behind the passenger side kick panel.
    Not sure what the box does, but I finally found the little bugger tonight.
  • snidesnide Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. My gas pedal feels totally unresponsive and when cold or starting from a dead stop the motor stalls and sometimes pops like a carburated model with retarded timing. My service engine soon light comes on now and then but reports only a random misfire. I've had the injectors and throttle body serviced but it's still not fixed. This all started after the 90k service my shop replaced plugs and fuel filters, and serviced injectors and fuel systems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Here is another update.

    I took the 99 bazer to another dealer and verified that the 4x4 was not working.
    They changed a defective vacuum module and then discovered that the cable was also siezed. They lubricated it and all is well with the exception of they driveline howl.

    They also changed the ball joints again.

    The truck is still in the shop three weeks now. I personally think the howl is coming from the front differrential, possibly the ring and pinion is worn. I shared this idea with the shop foreman after a lengthy test drive. He said that if the 4x4 becomes partially engaged it may cause premature wear resulting in the above problem. More to follow.

    I also ask the tech to look into the "booming " sound that happens when you drive.
    The booming noise I am talking about is a low frequency noise that puts pressure on your ears that is usually cause by driveline vibration or exhaust. After a bit of research I found a GM repair document (ID#883304or #02-06-05-002 april 30 2002). This service repair involves installing an exhaust bracket to dampen the exhaust system. We are still working out who will pay for this.
  • i just bought a 97 2door 5m blazer from my sister. she sold it because it wasnt running right. so far i have had it for two months and i have replaced an intake manifold gasket, cat converter, 02 sensor, and a passenger side upper ball joint. i thought it was running well after all that jazz but there is a grumbling/grinding sound coming from my front end whenever i take corners at low speeds (stop signs-intersections.) i know my cv joints are leaking but i dont know if low fluid would cause this. also there is a cracking sound whenever i turn my wheel almost to the max, either side. the cracking sound comes from the left side, and my right side sags about 2 inches lower than the left. PLEASE HELP ME OR JUST GIMME SUGGESTIONS.
  • I have a 2003 TB with 19000 on it now and have the same problem. Will go for weeks with no problem. Then wont crank and gauges erratic. Is at the Chevy dealer now,can't find any problem. My guess is ignition switch too, but dealer not wanting to change.
  • I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy. I bought her new and have put 127,000 + miles on her. She is a gem. However, for the last 27,000 miles the electric windows have been acting up. The front passenger window will sometimes cause the dome light to flash when it is going up or down, and sometimes the dome light stays on (have had a drained battery from this). The driver window will sometimes "stick" so that is doesn't go all the way up. Not fun when it starts raining. Both problems work themselves out and then start again at random. Now to add insult to injury, her gauges are acting up. Her oil pressure gauge will drop when I'm sitting at a stop light, and pick up again when I accelerate. The temperature gauge will climb past 210 and then drop to 150 (I don't think the temperature could drop that fast if I lived in the Arctic even). I've talked to several mechanics as I don't trust the people at my dealers shop (they screwed me once, and won't get a second chance), and they are all puzzled. I figure it has to be a bad fuse, or relay or something.
    Your suggestions are greatly appreciated. (Not all Jimmy's are lemons, mine's just sick)
  • it is back behind the distributer a little off to the right. I had to pull my distributer to change it.
  • I had a similar problem with my 89 Beretta. I ended up changing the Crankshaft Spark Position Sensor. Solved the problem and all was well.

    Good luck.
  • TAIL LIGHT REPLACEMENT. its easy,
    1. gather 1 combo wrench and 1 pair of pliers.
    2. unhook one side of the hydraulic arm.
    3. change your tail light.
  • Hey i had a similar problem in my 97 s10 blazer. the rear window broke. and a new one was ridiculously priced so my sisters boyfriend took it to a junk yard and got a replacement window... GOOD MOVE. the bad move was that he replaced it himself and could not get the window to open. luckily i had enough spair time to mess with it that i realized i needed to crawl in the back of my little 2d and get about a 14mm combo wrench right behind the outer latch handle. about half an hour later i got it open. 2 nuts, half an hour. after it is open drop the tailgate and take off the plastic panel. you said that you can still hear the release working but not catching. well the components inside the tailgate come loosed easily. just tighten that biotch up and ure good to go.
  • sharptecsharptec Posts: 2
    Have an 89 S-10 Blazer with the 4.3 liter. When the engine reaches temperature, it acts as though it is flooding and stalls. Once the engine cools it starts right back up again. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
  • blaze100blaze100 Posts: 3
    Sharon,
    The problem was the multi function switch on the steering column. They call it a switch, but its the whole assembly including the turn signal lever and the hazard switch. I picked it um on ebay brand new for 160.00 . I put it in myself and no problems at all. Hope this helps!
    Julian
  • itsroxitsrox Posts: 3
    I was wondering if you ever got the question answered about the digital dash on your Blazer? My son has a 1993 Jimmy GMC with the same issue. This is the 2nd time is has went off and this time it does not want to come back on.

    If you know of anything to check or possibly had a reply can you let me know?

    thanks so much!

    Roxanna image
  • itsroxitsrox Posts: 3
    Anyone had this issue before where the dash lights go off and not come back on???
    Checked the fuses, they are all good. Checked the wiring as best as we could, no burnt wires...

    Help!

    image
  • itsroxitsrox Posts: 3
    I was wondering if you ever got the question answered about the digital dash on your Blazer? My son has a 1993 Jimmy GMC with the same issue. This is the 2nd time is has went off and this time it does not want to come back on.

    If you know of anything to check or possibly had a reply can you let me know?

    thanks so much!

    Roxanna image
  • fr8huntfr8hunt Posts: 1
    i have a 93 blazer s10 tahoe with the 4.3 vortec, its in relatively good shape, last few days it has been running and starting fine then all of a sudden it dosent start. let it sit a while, then it starts, i was driving it all day today, it was fine, now it wont start at all, i let it sit for a few hours, and it still wont start. any pointers appreciated.
  • avsroolavsrool Posts: 4
    I know there are many messages I can browse through on this subject, however, my time on the internet is limited. Here is the situation with my 2000 Chevy Blazer:

    COOLANT SYSTEM:
    Turn on heater during normal driving conditions. Receive cool air and then hot air and reverts to cool air again (does this on a back and forth basis). At one point, I had an overheat condition in which the system had corrected itself. Parked the truck and smelled coolant. Looked for leaks around and underneath the engine and inside near the heater core to find anything obvious with no luck. My guess the coolant system is clogged and needs to be flushed. Am I correct on this or will it be more than that?

    4WD:
    I think my truck is possessed by the devil himself. My 2HI light will flash at start-up. During normal driving conditions, my 4LO will flash but doesn't engage. Sometimes when I pull out of the parking lot, my 4LO will automatically engage and I have to turn off the engine, put it in nuetral and start up striking the 2HI key which takes me out of the 4LO mode. My guess is that the computer is whacked, sending false signals to the drive transfer case thing-a-ma-jig because my 4WD will engage but not when I want it too.(physically)

    Any assistance is greatly appreciated and hopefully I can save some bucks on my primary source of transportation. I really don't want to ride the secondary source of transportation to get to work...the city bus.
  • jaymejayme Posts: 1
    I own a 99 Blazer and the other day I went out to check all the fluids and the change the oil. I went to pop the hood and when I pulled the lever nothing happened. Is there another way that I can get the hood open? I even took some needle nose pliers to the wire connecting to the lever and gave that a try but no luck. Thanks

    Jayme
  • smush29smush29 Posts: 1
    My 1999 Chevrolet Blazer started making a clicking noise today. It sounds like the turn signal flasher. The clicking sound is coming from the same little black box, on the passenger side from under the kick panel, as the turn signal click comes from. It just comes on and off on its own and sometimes when it will stay on when I've just used my turn signal. I was wondering if anyone knew what this problem is because I don't have very much money and would like to try and fix this myself. Please if anyone knows please message or email me back.
    Thanks
    Sterling
  • kccouplekccouple Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 4X4 Blazer.
    In the past year: the handle to adjust the seat has broken off both passenger side and drive side, there is a clicking that sounds like blinker coming from dash, fuel gauge flutters and does not display accurate fuel level reading, and most recently, when we turned on the air, smoke (electrical) came from steering column. Turned off air, parked in safe area and turned air on again – we have fans but no temperature (cool or hot). The other issues are annoyances we can deal with, this one will require a trip to the shop.
    Has anyone run into this last issue (smoke, then no temp control)?
    Thanks,
    Tracy
  • sswigartsswigart Posts: 1
    Not sure what's up with your car pieps4157 but my 1999 Blazer is in the shop getting a 'new' used transmission. Was just going down the road, it jumped a couple of times and stuck in second.
  • kman0199kman0199 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1998 Blazer it must be common
  • chevygalchevygal Posts: 2
    I have a 98 S-10 with only 120,000 miles. Wouldn't start last month. We replaced the fuel filter module in the fuse box (it was burnt on one side).

    2 days ago: it would not start - again. We replaced the module a second time thinking something electrical was shorting them out. Still wouldn't start.
    Yesterday: Had it towed to the garage. Still wouldn't start.
    Today: Once they started to hook it up to the scope, it started and has been running every since.

    We don't know whether to start with the electrical or the fuel system.
  • I had the exact same problem with my '98 LT 4WD. My mechanic replaced the "combination signal switch". Cost $300 to fix (~200 parts, 100 labor). Well worth it - that noise is pretty annoying.
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