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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrurlmrurl Posts: 116
    My wife's 2000 Blazer refused to start yesterday. GM Roadside Assist told her it was probably the anti-theft system. They recommended that she wash the key with a mild detergent, dry it, put it in the ignition in the "on" position, wait 15 minutes, and then try to start it. No go. It's at the dealer now having the entire key assembly and anti-theft switch replaced.

    Is this a common problem? Will the new switch also fail?

    Peter
  • mrurlmrurl Posts: 116
    1. When driving down the highway with cruise on, the engine will quit and the tach will go to 0. A few seconds later the engine will come back on and come back to speed, usually with a downshift to 2nd and 4500 rpm.

    2. The engine stalls in traffic and when shifting from R to D on an intermittant basis (never at the dealer).

    Neither event ever sets a trouble code. Could they be related to the problem listed in #63?

    Peter
  • in cold weather my blazer wont start, the battery has enough power to crank it over, but when the engine tries to fire it sounds like its missing. can anyone help me?
  • oh if it matters its a 93 s-10 tahoe blazer, with a 4.3l vortec engine and it has 126,00 miles
  • I have a '93 S-10 Blazer with 114K. My father owns several Blazers and Jimmys with which he runs his rural mail route and absolutely loves them. I, unfortunately, do not feel the same. Mine has had so many problems that the repair receipts no longer fit into the glove box. At least I had the foresight to purchase an extended warranty. Even still, I have spent $2000 out of pocket on repairs. I joke at the repair shop that if I got frequent-flier miles that I could have gone around the world twice by now. Love the way it drives and handles, hate not knowing what's going to tear up next. Read an apt description on another site- "An S-10 Blazer is a hole in the road surrounded by metal through which you pour money." If I can get rid of this one, there will not be another.
  • I had a 93 that was ok aside from several sets of brakes, electrical and cooling problems. It was when the fuel control module went for the second time that finished my truck for good. gm could not get the part for several months. so basically i had to buy a car. what did i buy- a 2000 s10 4wd. $33,000. worth. well at @32k mile the oil coolant lines are leaking so they are staining my driveway pretty heavily. the dealer says no problem, warrantied. but we have to order the parts- oil coolant lines. they d and repalce them. the work was done 7 days ago under warranty at the dealer i bought the truck from. well on 2/2 i am driving buy the dealer and the check gauges light comes on flooowed by the intense small of burning oil. The truck dies and i coast into the service area.basically, the lines came off the top of the radiator oil all over the exerior, engine compartment, etc. the dealer say what did i do? to the epilogue- they do not know for sure but the engine could be totalled- $3800.000 worth of total. If it is engine at best the will put a rebuilt or reman parts in to it- my new still under warranty truck. the moral is i told myself not to buy another chev blazer after problems with my 93. so what do i do? yep i asked for more of the same. and this is a $33000. truck. Unoffically i was told by a gm related person to consider getting rid of the truck- that i just bought, that the GM dealer just screwed up.......i do know it won't be another s10 blazer. oh my.
  • I had a 93 that was ok aside from several sets of brakes, electrical and cooling problems. It was when the fuel control module went for the second time that finished my truck for good. gm could not get the part for several months. so basically i had to buy a car. what did i buy- a 2000 s10 4wd. $33,000. worth. well at @32k mile the oil coolant lines are leaking so they are staining my driveway pretty heavily. the dealer says no problem, warrantied. but we have to order the parts- oil coolant lines. they did and replaced them. the work was done 7 days ago under warranty at the dealer i bought the truck from. well on 2/2 i am driving buy the dealer and the check gauges light comes on followed by the intense small of burning oil. The truck dies and i coast into the service area. basically, the lines the dealer just replaced came off the top of the radiator- oil all over the exerior, engine compartment, etc. the dealer says what did i do? to the epilogue- they do not know for sure but the engine could be totalled- $3800.000 worth of total. If it is engine at best the dealer will put a rebuilt or reman parts in to it- my new still under warranty truck. the moral is i told myself not to buy another chev blazer after problems with my 93. so what do i do? yep i asked for more of the same. and this is a $33000. truck. Unoffically i was told by a gm related person to consider getting rid of the truck- that i just bought, that the GM dealer just screwed up.......i do know it won't be another s10 blazer. oh my.
  • I have a 1996 I/ 68,000. Just dropped $4k new engine in it. My coolant level always seemed low but I was never leaking any. It was getting into the engine block which eventually led to a blown engine. Weird scenario before and after the new engine. Service soon light comes on and when it's on, the shift from 1st to 2nd gear is very hard & rough. If I am lucky enough to get it to a mechanic when the SEA light is on, it either gets no readings on computer to pinpoint problem or shows an AS problem. The hard part is getting it to the mechanic when the light is on. It's only on for 1-2 hours a week. Has anyone experienced these problems before. I am concerned that the same issues exist and will lead to another major investment. I also experience the radiator sludge.
  • I had similar problems with my 97 Jimmy although not as bad as what you describe. I had some light carbon/soot buildup on the inside of the throttle body which was causing the butterfly to hang just a bit. I used some carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush and cleaned the inside of the throttle body and that fixed it for about 40K miles
  • I have a 1995 Blazer T. Loaded her up at the time. Most unreliable brakes I have ever experienced. Electrical system also bad. Have had battery problems... instant dead... for no reason. Bought the extended warranty... good thing!!! Have 50,000 miles on it... in mint condition and already ordered another brand of SUV. I would never normally purchase another car within 5 years, especially with this low mileage and MINT condition. BUT... It's garbage. Braking is completely unreliable and has had two recalls. If you hit just a slight dip...pebble...bump while applying brakes... you hear the anti-lock kick in... and GROAN and GLIDE...right into someone if you're not careful. Pedal hits the floor...and no more
    brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls and fixes. They OPERATE AS DESIGNED is their standard line. Yeah...designed to hit another car...or someone in a crosswalk. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.

    In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. It's not something you could LIVE with...gang. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.

    I'm trading this one...and it will be a beautiful looking truck. Clean...just like new. Uh huh...and I won't personally sell it...WHY? I don't want the "guilt complex" for the people who buy it. I won't even let my kids drive this thing.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    NYC cabs (as in New York City) routinely dis-able the ABS by pulling a fuse. They do it to get maximum braking (as in shortest distance).
  • gfkgfk Posts: 1
    Everything Mark has said about the brakes is true. Also had 2 recalls for brakes and still the same. The response I got from dealer the same. Also has engine problems but took extended warranty , Thank the good lord. I would be out $2000 - $3000.
    I am thinking of trading my in because of the brake situation.
    I must admit after going through the recalls it ran very good. But there is a problem with the brakes and the brakes wear out extreamly fast.
  • gfk:

    Obviously, as previously posted, our trucks are kindred spirits. I'm trading mine in on an MDX. Worries are almost over for me. It's a shame...the kids are having a fit because it's clean and looks showroom new. And...I'm taking a bath on the trade because I won't sell it to anyone. I'm delivering all the paperwork/repairwork...let someone else figure it out. I think it should be salvaged for parts. Anything but "brake" parts, that is.

    Three months after I got it, I wrote a letter to Chevy. My response? A $2,500 credit on another one. They're putting families in danger and don't even care. The crash ratings are horrible, it's a shame. I'm forever done with american made cars.
  • I don't own a Blazer, but I am looking at them along with other SUV's, and I have a few questions for Mr. bonkrz. You mention that due to your personal experiences with your Blazer, you will never buy an American vehicle again.

    You then state you have purchased a MDX which has a base price of $34,320 (Cheapest Model), is in its first year of production, and is made in Canada. Does this make any sense? First you compare a low end SUV (Chevy)to a very high end SUV in price and manufacturer. You then state you want reliability, but buy a first year production vehicle, and from a manufacturer that doesn't have a history of making SUV's, and you buy the SUV which uses the same labor pool i.e. North American (USA & Canada) that GM uses.

    If you were really interested in purchasing a SUV which had a highly rated history, wouldn't a Toyota 4 Runner or a Nissan Pathfinder have been the logical choice, and both of these SUV's are less expensive than the MDX. I haven't investigated where the Toyota or Nissan are made, but they have been around for years. (I know Honda makes the CRV, but Honda hardly is known for off setting the standards for road vehicles or even SUV's.)

    I suspect a personal grudge had more of an influence in your purchase of the MDX rather than logic, for your requirements don't match your decision.
  • Houstonman.

    Hi. My decision to purchase the Blazer in 95 was because I did not want a van and did want to be "higher up' for safety...etc. Cost was not much of a factor. In 1995 Chevy Blazer had the best (touring) suspension (SUV-wise); topping even Toyota. Everything comparable at that time was very truck-like and I hated the ride. When I got the Blazer...I loaded it with 3k in after market toys. I'd planned to drive it 10 years. What happened?

    After my purchase...within a few months...I noticed the brake issue. I took it to the dealer...complained...found an area where the anti-lock/anti-stop worked every time...and took the service manager there...for a test drive. They knew...I knew...and I got hot on GM's trail. After an unusual amount of persistence...I found out that THEY KNEW about the potential problem and "fixes" were already in the works. I don't know how many intersections with a Blazer full of kids that I nearly flew through because of those brakes...but it was several. Two recalls later...the problem still exists during certain road conditions. Conditional brakes are not OK. 'nuff said.

    My decision to look at alternatives was strictly because the Chevy Blazer brakes were dangerous but I delayed my immediate search for another SUV because they all rode like trucks. So...I learned which conditions would provoke the brake defect...and which were safer...and drove it accordingly. Hoping that somebody would not violently stop or pull out and cause an emergency braking situation on anything other that the perfectly smooth road surface.

    Before I began looking for a replacement and because the suspension is a hot button for me...I knew which SUV's tended to ride like a truck...and the ones which were more car-like. Since '95 many have joined the SUV market. Your auto suggestions are great...but the suspension and other amenities do not compare to the MDX.

    Price was not much of a factor in my decision...so I was not locked into the Blazer's price range. I do believe a loaded Blazer will run right around 32K. My loaded MDX is just under 40K.

    The decision to buy "first year" is again based on trust and the fact that once you drive the MDX...little compares. In addition, Acura has a decent track record. I looked at BMW...MBZ...Lexus. Lexus was closest to the MDX ride. The others, no matter what the cost, were still too truck-like.

    People will continue to purchase Blazers and I think you should explore all avenues. I also think you should check out the MDX because it is the definition of "common sense".
  • It has come to our attention that the 95 and up chevy and Gmc jimmys (4wd) have been having problems with their remote oil cooler lines leaking and various tranmission problems. Currently my wife drives a '96 Jimmy 4wd with appx 87K miles on it. We are taking it into the dealer to have the remote oil cooler/ filter line assembly changed out. This is the assembly from the radiator to the remote filter housing. Apparently their is over 10 other customers waiting for the same part to come in and have it installed. GM has backordered this particular assembly and rumor has it it is being re-designed! I am of the impression that this needs to be a recall!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe we should start a petition to recall. Another problem that is diagnosed yet not taken care of (that we have heard about) is a SLOW reaction time engaging reverse gear. i.e. When the vehicle is started, shifted from park into reverse there is a delay. Count to 3 and reverse grabs. Now, GM has a time specification and apparently 3 seconds or so is acceptable to them. However, if you have ever parked on an incline, put your car in reverse and let off the brake, you know what will happen. If reverse does not grab immediately you will begin rolling. Accidents happen. GM will not replace transmissions with this problem. Lastly, We have heard about the "Encoder" on the 4WD transfer case having problems. i.e. Since this winter has been a little harsher than some, people have used their 4wd more. Thus causing the "encoder" to error and create a "check engine light" and fault code. This is not supposed to be cheap to repair. Therefore, if this is a safety and service issue it sounds to me like GM needs to "Recall" and repair these encoders. That's about all I have for now. Any thoughts or success stories getting GM to pay for these type problems would be good to share with other owners.

    Thank you
  • Same problem on my '97 Bravada.

    I had developed a oil leak, and had one oil cooler line (P/N 15726903) and two seals (P/N 15701719) replaced in April '00, @ 34,409 miles.

    Well, last week I noticed oil spots on the garage floor... guess what? Same area, and as I found out today, the oil cooler lines are leaking again!!! (When I brought it in, I made a prediction to the service advisor that it was probably another oil line leak, and he rolled his eyes...) The truck now has 46,600 miles on it. Although I have a third party 6 yr./60K extended warranty through LIBERTY NATIONAL WARRANTY CORP, Miami, Fl, which was sold by the Oldsmobile finance guy as "supposedly" bumper-to-bumper, the warranty company does NOT cover it. Why? Because it is a rubber hose. Hah! Since when are oil cooler lines a normal maintenance item??? I can see radiator hoses being a normal wear item, but not oil cooler lines. If that's so, then do I need to worry about the high-pressure rubber fuel lines, too?

    But I digress... I am waiting for the oil cooler lines, as well, as they are on "national backorder". I was told they would be in stock in one week... hmmm, is my service advisor a little optimistic???

    Well, at least with this repair, I have at least equalled the amount spent on the warranty coverage to the amount of service work done... that's not saying much for the reliability of this vehicle. Too bad, because I am overall satisfied with the comfort and ride of the Bravada.

    I haven't had an issue with the transmission. Have you changed the fluid yet? The poor design of the dipstick & tube allows water into the tranny internals, causing rust to form on the dipstick. I believe contaminated fluid has shortened the life of many S-truck transmissions.

    A Service Bulletin exists that uses a different dipstick and tube. I had this SB completed around 30K miles, and have not had any tranny problems. I change the fluid at least every 30K miles, sometimes 15K miles depending on conditions.
  • Now that my 98 Blazer is going out of warranty is there something I can do to make the engine ping go away and not drain the checkbook and still maintain emissions standards? Yes I burn 93 octane. I guess GM's fix for this will be the new six in the 2002. I won't go there. Burn me once, shame on me, GM will not get a second time. Enough of that.
    Back to pinging. Maybe a different heat range for the spark plug or some aftermarket computer chip for the control module. I am going to try a independent garage for a second opinion. Anyones HELP would be appreciated.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    to disable the anti-locking feature?

    It sounds like you have a very dangerous lack of braking. But apparently not enough to look into pulling a fuse to disable the anti-lock controller.

    I don't know the fuse specifics for a 95 Blazer, but they were pullling fuses on mid 90's chevy cabs to disable the anti-lock brakes.
  • Heng...

    Thought of that...but was told there is no fuse in this 95. Also...there can be some question as to equipment issues in the event of a wreck. Insurance companies are all over that kind of stuff and routinely look for modifications. If they're not used as designed...you can cause yourself some problems.

    But...thanks for the tip!
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