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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    I recently had a Service Engine Soon light with a code of P0440 on a 97 Blazer. Supposedly this is the infamous bad gas cap which I replaced ($6.99!). A few days later the SES light came up again with the same code.
    Question: After driving and removing the gas cap, do you hear a pressure relief sound (hiss)? I don't on mine.

    mrjfleming: I've heard a clogged IAC valve will mess up your idle just as a clogged EGR will.
    Does anyone know where this IAC is located?

  • The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve is mounted to the throttle body. It is adjacent to the throttle position sensor (TPS). It can be identified by its round stepper motor housing. It is wired to the VCM (Vehicle Control Module) by a removable weather pack connector. Once the IAC is removed from its housing in the throttle body, the pintle valve on the end of the shaft can be examined. If it is caked with carbon, it's a good bet it's affecting the quality of idle. The pintle valve can be gently cleaned with solvent. However, avoid allowing any solvent to contaminate the stepper motor. Also, make no manual adjustments of the pintle valve shaft. The stepper motor moves the pintle valve shaft in counts. Correct movement will be compromised if you turn the pintle valve shaft by hand. The o-ring that seals the IAC to the throttle body should also be checked. If it has any damage it should be replaced. If the existing o-ring is returned to service, lightly lubricate it with clean oil.
  • Hi, I'm having an issue where there is no air coming from my lower vents. The Service shop took a look at it and didn't find anything (but they also mentioned that in order to look at everything, they would have to remove the dash and it would have ended up costing $800 -- a little too steep for me for a diagnostic...). Has anyone had this issue? Does anyone have an idea of what might be happening? Thanks in advance.
  • morencyjmorencyj Posts: 8
    Hello all!
    A few times in the last couple of weeks, the Jimmy (2000 4 door) has started rough and the check engine light has been flasing. I took it in to Canadian Tire and they hooked it up to the code reader. This is what I got back:

    PO300 Code on ECM - Random Cylinder Misfire
    Cylinder #3 had a miss history of 5612
    Cylinder #4 had a miss history of 103
    Cylinder #6 had a miss history of 1069

    What are the cylinder miss numbers and can you find out what they mean? (ie: 5612, 103, 1069)

    Canadian Tire wants to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and fuel filter. Maybe it does need all those parts, but the guy sounded more like he didn't know exactly where the problem he wanted to replace everything. Before I fell to their mercy, I thought I would post here first.

    Anyway using all those code numbers to diagnose the problem further?

    Thanks everyone!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Those are the number of misfires counted. If it hasn't had plugs and wires, it's due. Use only ACDelco parts.
  • mor64mor64 Posts: 1
    My 1995 Jimmy seems to like heater cores. I replaced two of them in the past two years. A new one installed in Sept.03 just starting leaking. Any ideas to the cause of this problem.
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    WOW! Thanks Cliff, that's a huge help. Great info there.
  • farscaperfarscaper Posts: 1
    Does anyone else have a problem with a lot of air coming from the top of the dash vents when driving on the freeway? My controls are all switched off, but I'm getting blasted by hot air as my speed increases.
  • 99lsblazer99lsblazer Posts: 1
    I have a 99 4dr LS Blazer and my engine coolant temp gage has started reading low. Usually it's ~210 but now days it's reading closer to ~170. The gage stays at 100 (min value) for a lot longer than it used to, but then progresses linearly to ~170 where it holds steady.

    I complained to the dealer about this and their solution was to replace my thermostat (they said it was "stuck") but the temp gage is still reading low. Before I go back and complain to them again, I was wondering if anybody had any ideas about what the real problem is.

    I've read the posts about coolant system problems with the car, and was wonding if the low reading on the temp gage is a sign that my coolant system needs some serious maintenance (flushing, etc).
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    99lsblazer - Check your Coolant Temperature by using an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the hoses and the radiator tanks. This way you will know what the temperature of the coolant REALLY is, an you can determine if your gauge is reading incorrectly, or if your cooling system really has a problem. As with any other automotive problem, always start with gathering accurate information for an accurate diagnosis. If you don't have a small handheld infared thermometer, I would recommend you get one, as the price has dropped on those things, they were over $100 when they first came out, and now they are under $100. They are very useful for checking coolant temp, measure the temp difference between the radiator tanks to determine how well your radiator is working, Great for checking Air Conditioner Line Temps, even check the temp of your food, coffee and drinks!
  • scout123scout123 Posts: 3
    Just bought an 03 Blazer with 17k miles. Noticed "rattle" between 14 and 22k rpms coming from engine. Sort of sound like a diesel engine knock. Took to Dealer, they mentioned that due to service bulletin in reagrds to Timing Chain tensioner, etc... Ordered all parts to repace. Waiting to see if noise issue is resolved.

    Also, it strikes me kind of weird, the temp. guage climes to about 150 degrees after driving for about a block or 2, maybe under 45 seconds of drive time. This is in around 65 to 70 degree weather. The temp never climbs above 220 or so.

    Any suggestions
  • topdog047topdog047 Posts: 12
    Between 45-50,000 had to replace w/pump, alternator and a/c compressor - brakes are still the original- Total cost at a reliable dealer was about $1,200 - Big bonus is GM provides lifetime warranty for parts and labor.

    What has me concerned is the posts re: premature engine problems.

    Most shops put 5 quarts in when they change the oil- The manual specifically indicates 4 1/2 and states that over filling will cause engine damage.
    The real indicator is the dipstick - with 4 1/2 the stick is right where it should be. Every dealer and mechanic I've been to in the last 10 years - 3 Jimmies- with one exception insists that 5 quarts is correct- most are lazy !!! I have had 2 occasions where I had to return to the shop and have the filter replaced to remove the extra 1/2 quart.
    If your 4.3 is like all 3 of mine - they do not burn or drip any oil- There is very little space in the crankcase for the extra 1/2 qt. Does not sound like much - however, the engineer that designed the engine specifically calculated 4 1/2.

    Check it out - if possible talk to a knowledgeable mechanic/engineer and he will explain the many potential problems - The excess oil will try to find a way out through the seals and at high RPM will have a tendency to foam - not good for lubrication.

    More is not always better -
  • ucanskiucanski Posts: 5
    Symptoms: Car quit driving home. Fuel tank registers empty, however tank was filled in the morning - so not likely out of gas. Try to start car and it just turns over. Any clues?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,041
    Try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    Check your tank to see if it has any gas left in it, You may have a fuel leak.
  • rzepa1rzepa1 Posts: 55
    Entire gas tank in one day ....? You'd smell
    gasoline if this was the case. Hope you don't smoke.

    More likely your the float inside your gas tank is stuck or
  • flew0207flew0207 Posts: 2
    Wondering if anyone else has had similiar problem. When accelerating or revving engine, there is a very distinct "fluttering" noise coming from the engine. To make a long story short, the Jimmy went into the shop to have water pump replaced. It came out of the shop with a new water pump and "fluttering"!!! Of course the shop claims that it is nothing as a result of anything they did!!! Any ideas?
  • rossmrrossmr Posts: 8
    just traded my 98 blazer (purchased new) on a 2005 outback. problems i had are well documented on this board - wiper board, cooling system problems, door hinges, alternator, suspension, interior trim, rattles, oil line leaks, a/c compressor, water pump, hatch struts, power window motor failure.

    as i traded, the tranny was shifting hard 1 to 2, my mechanic says the head gaskets are prone to fail, the sensors for the fuel injection go bad, 'blazers last forever but they nickel and dime you'. Two to nine hundred dollar repair bills are not what i consider 'nickel and dime' expenses,

    who knows, the outback may not be any better. but it seems gm's strategy is to sell on price (5K rebate and i let slide a 3.5k gm mastercard bonus as well as big discounts off of sticker). but when you figure the big depreciation hit on gm cars, the repair expenses plus the hassle expenses, even though i want to buy from an amercian company, i can't justify it.
  • laungst68laungst68 Posts: 3
    94 jimmy vortec/4.3/w its getting gas,has spark to #1plug,rotor moves possibly eliminating timing chain,engine turns over normally just won't start,coil also has spark.
  • jal012773jal012773 Posts: 63
    Need some help here. I took my '01 Blazer 4x4 in to a tire/alignment shop to have the tires balanced because of a vibration at speeds of 60+ mph. This did not fix the vibration, so I took it to my dealer to see what they could find. They said my tires were out of balance, and I need to replace the idler arm and pitman arm for $400. I took it back to the tire shop to have the tires rebalanced and have them look at the arms. They said the arms were fine, but both lower ball joints need to be replaced. Good news is they rebalanced my tires and the vibration is gone.

    My question: at 50,000 miles, is either one of these problems common or serious since the problem I really needed fixed is now taken care of? My extended warranty won't cover either repair for various reasons.
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