Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

14243454748119

Comments

  • willi4willi4 Posts: 2
    Hi
    New to this site - appreciate any help. My son has been told his 96 Blazer fuel pump has low pressure. My husband will be repairing it. Can anyone give advice or lead me to a site that has details of how to drop the tank (if that is how you access it and think it is on this year and model) and replace the fuel pump.

    Thank you
    willi4
  • I replaced an alternator on my father in law's 97 blazer 4.3, 4wd, a/c tonight and in removing the alternator with a prybar, i reefed on the passenger side of the alternator a little to break it loose from the mount and pop, the front "dog ear" popped off with the mount bushing... I've got it back in and tightened down as best as I could, but I want/should replace the dog ear. It looks like it bolts onto the front of the block. Anyone knows what it's called ?? In the morning I'm gonna start calling jy's and want to at least sound knowledgeable. TIA to all

    :mad:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
    Tank Assembly
    Except With Shield Package

    1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. If not done already, raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
    3. If equipped on late-model vehicles, loosen and remove the tank plastic shield.
    4. Loosen the retaining clamp and disconnect the tank filler hose from the tank neck.

    If fuel and vapor hoses or pump/sending unit wiring can be accessed at this time, they may be tagged and disconnected. If not, wait for the retaining straps to be loosened and lower the tank slightly for access.

    5. Tag and disconnect and accessible wiring or hoses from the top of the fuel tank.
    6. Have and assistant support the fuel tank, then remove the fuel tank-to-vehicle straps and, if equipped, the isolation strips. If no assistant is available, position a floor jack to support the tank while the straps are removed.
    7. Lower the tank slightly, then remove the sending unit or sending unit/pump wires, hoses and ground strap. Be sure to label all connections to ease installation.
    8. Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle and store in a safe place.

    To install:

    9. Raise the tank partially into position in the vehicle. If you are working without an assistant, you may wish to loosely install one of the retaining straps and use a floor jack to support the tank at an angle so there is access to the sending unit or sending unit/pump assembly (as applicable).
    10. Connect the fuel/vapor hoses and wiring to the top of the fuel tank, as tagged during removal.
    11. Carefully raise the fuel tank so it is fully into position and loosely secure the retaining straps. Make sure the wires and hoses are not pinched or damaged when raising the tank. Also, be sure that the isolation strips (if used) are positioned between the retaining straps and the fuel tank.
    12. It may be easier to connect the fuel filler hose to the tank neck at this time. If desired, connect the hose and secure the clamp.
    13. Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap fasteners to specification. Tighten the strap nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    14. If not done earlier, connect the tank filler hose to the tank neck and secure using the clamp.
    15. If equipped, install and secure the tank plastic shield.
    16. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
    17. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
    18. Connect the negative battery cable.

    Equipped With Shield Package

    1. Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
    3. Remove the shield forward support and bracket.
    4. While supporting the shield and tank assembly with the help of both an assistant and a floor jack, remove the remaining bolts holding the assembly to the frame, then lower it sufficiently for access to the hoses and wires.
    5. Tag and disengage the hoses and wires from the sending unit assembly.
    6. Carefully lower the fuel tank and shield from the vehicle, then if necessary for service or replacement, separate the tank from the shield.

    To install:
    7. If separated, install the tank to the shield.
    8. Carefully raise the tank and shield assembly partially into position with the help of an assistant and a floor jack.
    9. Connect the wiring and hoses to the sending unit assembly, as tagged during removal.
    10. Raise the tank and shield assembly fully into position, then secure to the frame using the lower retaining bolts.
    11. Install the shield forward support bracket.
    12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
    13. Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
    14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • willi4willi4 Posts: 2
    Alcan

    thanks for the info. I appreciate it. Should make the job go easier.
  • iamwomaniamwoman Posts: 1
    That's so true, there are so many other things we could be spending money on. I changed the brakes on my Blazer twice in 7 years and the second time I changed the rotors. I had to buy a few tools I didn't realize I needed until it tore apart but the whole job took just over $100.00 instead of $450.00. Some of the bolts were hard to get loosened but I called a small repair shop and asked them if there was something I could do to get it off. They told me apply heat so I bought a tourch and held it on the bolt for a couple of minutes and it worked!!! I'm not a strong woman, but there is always a way to get things done.
  • My 2001 Blazer idles very rough and sets no codes and doesn't turn on the check engine light. Plugs and wires have been replaced, and the cap/rotor are still good. It has around 60,000 miles. Any ideas??
  • rogermrogerm Posts: 1
    My 1991 Jimmy is having running problems. These are the symptoms, it coughs through the intake when running down the road and I took it to a trusted mechanic. He said it had fuel pressure problems and suggested it was the fuel pump. We changed the fuel pump, filter, and throttle body and vehicle is still having same symptoms. Any suggestions?
  • The driver's side seatbelt locks when I pul lit out too quickly and then will not unlock. Sometimes it is 3 or 4 days before it releases. I have had it replaced once. Is it something I am doing? And, once it locks, how do I unlock it? I have a 2004 Trailblazer
  • cvitkocvitko Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on a 94 Jeep Cheroke. Drove me crazy for a year. Kept getting worse. Engine would just shut off while driving then turn itself back on. Got so bad that you would just have to sit and wait and keep trying. Tried everything starting from the distributor to the relays to the fuel pump. Turned out to be the TDC (top dead Center) sensor mounted on the bell housing of the transmission. One bolt and it was out and replaced in 15 minutes. $80 for the jeep. Hope this helps in your situation. I'd hate to see another one of us lose their hair. :)
  • jackfrostjackfrost Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Was the starter you replaced the larger one, with the extra 'lobe' on top (gear reduction) or was it a typical starter (just a round cyclinder).

    Thanks. The parts store i called said there's 2 kinds.

    Jerry
  • ;) check ur turn signal relay it's inside the cover were ur e_ brake lever release is should be a white box next to the horn relay ;) ;)
  • blazer100blazer100 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 99 blazer. All though, it has stopped working completly. It was hooked up to the coputer system at the dealership and i was told that there are no codes comming out of it meaning that, i guess, the computer finds nothing wrong. I tried to recharge the 134a in it but before putting the stuff in it the gage said it was over charged and in the red area. I have no idea whats going on.
  • jon80457jon80457 Posts: 2
    We recently purchased a '98 Blazer. The "service engine soon" lite has come on.
    Can anyone reccomend an OBD code reader and where can I find a code explanation list?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,935
    Many auto parts stores will pull the codes for free now and tell you what the code stands for.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I just purchased a 2001 Chevy Blazer LT 4WD and the engine light came on. When my mechanic put it on the machine the problem was I needed an air pump - it was an emissions issue. This problem caused nothing mechanically wrong but the vehicle would not pass inspection (which it's not due for until next June anyway). Luckily it is still under warranty and was replaced for free. My mechanic advised the cost to replaced the air pump and hoses would have been about $189 for parts and $50 for labor.
  • I just purchased a 2001 Chevy Blazer and the material I've read said that Onstar comes standard on the 2001 LT's - is this a myth? Where would I look to see if I had Onstar?
  • jon80457jon80457 Posts: 2
    I went to one of my local parts stores and they read the codes. (Thanks Steve).
    It came back as: P 1870 Component Slipping.
    Further internet investigation revealed the following:
    (I hope someone can help me decipher this)
    P1870 = Transmission Component Slipping = A = *DTC P1870 will be stored in PCM history *Inhibit TCC engagement *Inhibit 4th gear if in hot mode *Freeze 1-2 shift adapts from being updated *Maximum line pressure

    DTC = Description = DTC type = *Default Action

    * DTC types

    "A" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after first failure
    "B" Emission related, will turn on the MIL after two consecutive trips with failure
    "C" Non-emissions related, will turn on the MIL on first failure
    "D" Non-emissions related, no lamp
    (Isn't copy and paste great!)
    Thanks,
    Jon
  • Where is the drainhole for A/C on '94 Blazer?I have condensation draining on the passengers side front floor board.
    Thank you.
  • My 97 Jimmy is running great but I have an annoying problem with the ignition. The mechanism that invovles the automatic transmission and ignition is malfunctioning. Often when I put the truck in park and turn the truck off, the key will only turn far enough to turn the engine off but not far enough to take the key out. I have to manipulate the key and shifter many times before I hear a simple "click" and know I can take the key out. This is driving me crazy. Any thoughts?
  • I have seen a couple of posts regarding this problem but no answers, so I thought I'd bring it up again. The a/c in my 97 Jimmy is blowing from the dash and floor no matter what setting I use. I have read something about a possible vacume line leak that causes this. How about some suggestions for what to do about it? Its getting hot in Texas and I could use some advice. Thanks!
  • I am having the same problem on my 97 blazer. It drives fine for the first 10 minutes then it makes a clicking noise and gets worse. The car seems to overheat and eventually shuts itself off. It starts back up and the longer i wait the easier it is to drive but it obviously just happens again. I never noticed it really b/c i drove 10 minutes to work and back but i took it out for a half hour and now its sitting on the street (legally at the moment). I'm afraid if I try and get it to my mechanic it'll explode or not start up again. Anything I can do at the car to ease it up? I dont know so much about cars but I learn fast and have some help.
  • zachbzachb Posts: 1
    I've got a problem with a Jimmy that gets terrible gas mileage (9-11/gal), the fuel pours out the [non-permissible content removed] end in the form of black smoke each time a get on the petal. I get the trouble codes for tps high and low voltage, EGR valve, and Rich Exhaust when I plug the wire into the connector under the dash. I've replaced the O2 sensor and the TPS sensor, when I took the EGR off it had a bit of carbon clogging it up, but thats been cleaned and the valve is still good. Anyone with a solution to my problem?
  • cdr2cdr2 Posts: 1
    It may be a bad wheel bearing. If you look at a new wheel bearing there is a wire on it that needs to be plugged in to run the anti-lock sensor. Apparenly the anti-lock brake sensor is inside the housing for the wheel bearing. Once the bearing starts to go bad the anti lock sensor doesn't work. I had the same problem on my 98 Blazer. Of course, the bearing made a bad grinding noise for a while before I noticed the anti-lock light coming on,but one I replaced the bearing the light went out. Just and idea...
  • coffey41coffey41 Posts: 1
    My 1997 S-10 Blazer is doing something weird. I think it might be the ignition switch but I'm not sure. When I try to start the truck, I've noticed that the dash lights (the dummy lights that come on for a few seconds and then go out) do not come on when I turn the key, and the truck won't start. But, when the dash lights do flash on for a few seconds, the truck starts with no problem. Any ideas? I have tried everything else... new plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter. It started doing this about three weeks ago, and has progressively gotten worse, which is what lead me to believe it might have been the fuel pump. Thanks.
  • codemancodeman Posts: 1
    :confuse: my mom has a 98 gmc jimmy and recently the check engine light came on so i took it to auto zone and had it checked the guy said that there was some thing wrong with the 4 wheel drive but it is a 2 wheel drive suv and also some times when she is driving when ever she accelerates when it starts to shift in to the next gear it almost like slams really hard it makes you go forward and the engine reves up pretty high before shifting can any one help me please :cry: :cry:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check fuel pressure. If it's high, the pressure regulator's done. Here's some info on them:

    The Central Multi-port Fuel Injection (CMFI) system, found on 1994-95 4.3L models, functions similarly to the TBI system in that an injection assembly (CMFI unit) is centrally mounted on the engine intake manifold. The major differences come in the incorporation of a split (upper and lower) intake manifold assembly with a variable tuned plenum (using an intake manifold tuning valve) and the CMFI unit's single fuel injector which feeds 6 poppet valves (1 for each individual cylinder).

    The non-repairable CMFI assembly or injection unit consists of a fuel meter body, gasket seal, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector and six poppet nozzles with fuel tubes. The assembly is housed in the lower intake manifold. Should a failure occur in the CMFI assembly, the entire component must be replaced as a unit.
  • toolfrk48toolfrk48 Posts: 1
    I am wondering what the proper carb needle setting should be on a 1985 chevy s-10 blazer 4x4 with a 2.8 v6. I have 2 different carbs for the truck numbers are 17085362 (installed) and 17084354 (spare). If you have any advice or sugestions please post them. Thank you for your time.
  • kminicakminica Posts: 1
    my 1998 blazer wont start in the am unless i get up around midnight and start it. it backfires in the am turning over and over . replaced fuel pump, crank sensor, please help its driving me crazy
  • bigal2003bigal2003 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 chevy blazer with 153,000 miles on it. About a week ago, when i started to break, there was a constant "airy" sound. i took it to the shop, and they said the power booster was going bad, but did not have to be replaced yet. They wanted to charge me $500 to replace it. Well, over the last couple of days, after i have stopped for a minute or so at a traffic light, when i go to accelerate, my engine "jerks" and will finally go. Is this related to the power booster? Also, i can get a power booster for about a hundred bucks. Are they easy to change, or do i need to take it to the shop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    THANKS!!!
  • bfraserbfraser Posts: 1
    had this on my 98, very intermittent. I thought I was going to need a new ignition switch, however - The key lock solenoid wires run down to a switch attached to shift lever on the floor. Look for a small plug next to the shifter, 3 of the 4 wires had either pulled out or chaffed from the shifter tugging on the wiring harness.
Sign In or Register to comment.