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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It needs fuel pressure, compression, and a hot spark. FInd out which one you're missing.
  • My oil cooling line has a hole in it going to the oil filter. How hard is it to replace and how do you replace it? :confuse: .
  • Now my 99 has a blown seal on my bad wheel bearings. Went to change them but need to know if there is a pin in the 'pumpkin' or if i need a press to put it back on? Anyone know? We tried to replace last night but couldn't get the hub to come out. I was told may have a pin in the pumpkin or may need a press. Help Please.. This thing has Got To Go!
  • I have a 1998 blazer 4wd, I bought it in Feb. We noticed in May that the breaks squeal and recently have started to making a grinding type of noise. I have taken in back to the dealer where I bought it at and he told me that the Breaks are brand new on it and they checked it 4 times the day i was there. I dont have trouble stopping and going. The squealing and grinding noise start when you first move from a stopped posistion and tapping the brakes lets the noise go. Also they do squeak a bit when i stop. I have heard on the radio that several GM trucks have been recalled due to the braking system. I can't find if my blazer has been one of them. I am thinking about going to a GM place and having them check it out next week. It was getting a bit loud and kinda scary driving in the high graded hills over vacation.

    Also I would like to know what damage could have been done becuase when I bought the Blazer they had the tranny fluid in the differental and the differental in the tranny. I since have replaced ALL fluids and the dealer ship has reimbursed me for doing that. I dont know how long it was in there as far as we can tell there isnt any signs of damage showing up now.
  • I have a 2001 blazer.The check engine light is on. I took it to a local shop, only to find they could not fix it because it is the PCM. I was told it has to be repaired at a GM dealership. Can anyone help me?
  • 98 Chevy S10 Blazer with intermittent A/C and airbag light. When the A/C problem began, the air would get hot for a few minutes, then cool back down (52 degrees). Vehicle has electronic climate control. At this time, it is mostly blowing hot air. The compressor is running and we've changed the blend motor without any success. Also, the airbag light comes on from time to time. Sometimes it's on steady, sometimes blinking, quite often it doesn't come on at all. I'm suspicious of a computer or ecm problem. Anyone familiar with this vehicle and any module that could affect both systems?
  • I have a 2000 Blazer with a similiar problem. All the console lights will come on and I loss most of the gauges. No rhyme or reason when it might occur or go away.

    Can't find any loose wires or connections. If anyone has an idea, please let me know.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Not sure what a "pumpkin" is but here's the procedure for replacing axle seals/bearings. Requires opening up the differential housing and removing the axle shaft C lock:

    Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal
    GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide

    1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
    2. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
    3. Using a wire brush, clean the dirt/rust from around the rear axle cover. This should be done to help prevent foreign material from entering the rear axle and possibly damaging the differential.
    4. Place a catch pan under the differential, then unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the rear cover. When removing the cover, a small prytool may be used at the base of the cover to gently pry it back from the axle housing, breaking the gasket seal and allowing the lubricant to drain out into the container. Be careful not to use excessive force and damage the cover or housing.
    5. Remove the rear pinion shaft lockbolt and the pinion shaft from the differential.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018c464.gif

    6. Push the axle shaft inward, then remove the C-lock from the button end of the axle shaft.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018c466.gif

    7. Remove the axle shaft from the axle housing by pulling straight back on the shaft hub, be careful not to damage the oil seal with the shaft splines.
    8. If the bearing and/or oil seal is being replaced, use a medium pry bar to carefully pry the old oil seal from the end of the rear axle housing. DO NOT score or damage the housing oil seal surface.
    9. If the wheel bearing is being removed, use the GM slide hammer tool No. J-2619, along with adapter No. J-2619-4 and the axle bearing puller No. J-22813-01, or the equivalent tools to pull the bearing from the tube. Be sure to install the tool assembly so that the tangs engage the outer race of the bearing, then use the action of the slide hammer to withdraw the wheel bearing from the axle housing.

    To install:

    10. Clean and inspect the axle tube housing.
    11. If the bearing was removed, thoroughly clean the wheel bearing using solvent, then blow dry with compressed air. DO NOT spin the bearing with the compressed air or damage may occur. Inspect the wheel bearing for excessive wear or damage. If it feels rough, replace it.
    12. With a new or the reused bearing, place a blob of heavy grease in the palm of your hand, then work the bearing into the grease until it is thoroughly lubricated. Using an axle shaft bearing installer such as No. J-34974, J-23765 or equivalents, drive the bearing into the axle housing until it bottoms against the seat.
    13. If the bearing and/or seal was removed, use an axle shaft seal installer tool such as No. J-33782, J-23771 or equivalents to drive the new seal into the housing until it is flush with the axle tube. If a seal installer is not available, a suitably sized driver or socket may be used, just make sure the surface in contact with the seal is smooth so that it won't damage the seal.
    14. Using gear oil, lubricate the new seal lips.
    15. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket mounting surfaces on the housing and cover. Take care to keep material out of the differential housing. If necessary, place a rag or paper towels over the differential while cleaning the housing flange.

    When installing the axle shaft(s), be careful not to cut the oil seal lips.

    16. Slide the axle shaft into the rear axle housing, taking care not to damage the seal, then engage the splines of the axle shaft with the splines of the rear axle side gear.
    17. Install the C-lock retainer on the axle shaft button end. After the C-lock is installed, pull the axle shaft outward to seat the C-lock retainer in the counterbore of the side gears.
    18. Install the pinion shaft through the case and the pinions, then install a new pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten the new lockbolt to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).

    When adding oil to the rear axle, be aware that some locking differentials require the use of a special gear lubricant additive.

    19. Install the rear cover using a new gasket and sealant. Tighten the retaining bolts using a crosswise pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    20. Refill the rear axle housing using the proper grade and quantity of lubricant as detailed in Routine Maintenance of this repair guide. Install the filler plug, operate the vehicle and check for any leaks.
  • I have a 97 blazer i purchased used recently. While driving down the road you all of sudden lose power. At the same time the air bag light flickers on and off with the engine trying to run. I usally pull to the side of the road. The blazer never cuts off but runs just enough to keep the motor going. This will clear up after a minute. When the engine starts running ok again and you pull back on the road the transmisson shifts hard. If you cut the blazer off and then restart it the transmisson shifts smooth until it has another spell where it won't run right again. Has anyone had this problem or might know what is causing this.
    Thanks for the Help
  • Thank you so much for this information. I printed it out so the guy working on this can be sure to do it correctly! Thanks again for the help!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Yoou're welcome! Good luck with it.
  • I'm hoping I don't have a bigger problem. I ran my Blazer out of gas - then put 2 gallons in it - turned it over and it wouldn't start. The starter was cranking and the electrical seems fine. Any suggestions? Is this one of those cars that needs to be put on an incline or decline to get the gas to have a little head start after running out? Thanks.
  • Have the wiring harnesses off the computer checked. I had a similar problem with the gauges and lights, but the truck would also shut-off. It turned out that 3 wires on the harness were exposed and causing a short-circuit. This may be the case with your truck too.
  • While driving the other day my 98 jimmy lost power and i coasted to the side of the road where it then died. I wasn't able to get the truck to start after that. after getting it home I replaced the fuel filter and check the fuel pump all seemed good. When i tried to start the car would turn over and unsteadily idle for about 30 sec or so and when the accelerator was pressed it would die. After finding the locations of the ignition control I decided to disconnect the module and attempt a start. it acted the same just cranked and no turn over. With this what should I replace first the ignition module or the coil? Or would it be something else? I don't have access to a diagnostic reader so if any one knows how to jumper the connector to get a reading through the display let me know.

    Thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Is the check engine light on? What's the fuel pressure reading? Is there a hot, blue spark when using a spark tester? Guessing and throwing parts at it gets expensive in a hurry.

    "I don't have access to a diagnostic reader so if any one knows how to jumper the connector to get a reading through the display let me know"

    Nope. A code reader or scanner is required.
  • Jeff, I checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood.......all are fine.
    You can hear the lock working...actuator and sylenoid seem to be going good....replaced batter in key module just in case...didn't work. it is as if the glass part is just jammed for some reason. You can not take the back pannel off without opening the gate......am I just out of luck?? :(
  • I also have a similar problem with my 2001 blazer. I was changing oil a few months ago and the transfer case suddenly shifted into 4LO. After several attempts I got it to shift only back into AUTO4x4 (trans in neutral). Once in AUTO4x4 pushing 2HI sends it directly back to 4LO. 4HI button has no response. Finally I removed the battery cable for 5min or so and 2HI was then entered with no button pushing. I made this problem go away for awhile by removing the red + positive battery cable and cleaning all the corrosion on the cable end. I scraped the corrosion off with a flat blade screw driver and a steel brush until I saw bright copper cable end. Then I drove for 5min and the service 4x4 light didnt come on, so I tried all the 4x4 modes and they all worked perfectly. But this problem today came back to haunt me. I wish I could tell you more about a perminent repair without going to an expensive dealership. Unless you have found a repair since your problem has occured. ">link title
  • Could anyone one tell me where the egr valve is located on My 94 S10 Blazer. I am having problems with it stalling out and dieing so I replaced the fuel fiter and the PCV plug. But now the car wont even start. So I am going to try to clean the EGR valve and put in the Tomco screen. Thanks so much for the help.

    Heather
  • i have a 98 chevy s-10 blazer and my wipers work ocassionally and sometimes it doesnt work at all what to i have 2 do.Can any1 plz help me
  • Good day everyone.

    I own a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4x4, 4 dr. 4.3 and last week the overheat warning came on while I was driving on I-95. The vehicle over heated and died before I could pull over. I had it towed home and replaced the water pump, thermostat, flushed the radiator, changed the oil and spark plugs. After all of that my vehicle will not start. It cranks but will not start. There was no radiator fluid in the oil and no oil in the cooling system. The Hayes repair manual does not seem to help much so can anyone please assist me in this major problem?

    Thanks :sick:
  • not out of Luck. you've got to go inside and pry back the plastic panel. Be careful you might break the lift handle like i did. Then you can use a flat tip screwdriver to get the back glass open, be careful. When you get it open you can pry the panel back a little more and get your hand down inside. find the plunger thing. there a piece of plastic that hold the batting arm next to the plunger. if its broke . rig it with a metal clothes hanger. Once you get the door open and unscrew the panel you will be able to figure all of that out. Just remember. Metal Clothes Hangers and Duck Tape can fix almost anything. for awhile anyway.
  • check your primary ingnition wire going from the coil to the distributor...I have found the wire to rub on the heater hose eventually arcing out and short circuting.
    Remove the plastic air intake cover and try to strat your engine (have someone else crank it) you'll see the spark arcing across to the heater hose. Put a new wire on and insulate it by covering it with a 3/8" dia rubber hose where it contacts the heater hose. It's arcing out to the water in the hose.
  • check oyur primary ignition coil wire...it's probably arcing out on the heater hose...
  • kmbkmb Posts: 1
    started fine, driving along, came to a stop, while making a lh turn it began to spit and sputter, then died and rolled off to side of road! Turned ignition and just won't turn over to start (recent new battery, ac compressor). Took spark plug wire off a spark plug, stuck a screw driver in end if spark plug wire and held next to engine block, turned ignition and spark is orange, very low and weak. It just won't catch! What's do you think? Ignition coil? Any ideas...
  • Just curious if you ever found a solution to this problem. My 98 Blazer is having this issue now after having the alternator replaced last week. I've carried it back to the shop and the mechanic replaced the blend motor, but the problem still exists. I suspect something under the hood because we didn't have this problem BEFORE the alternator was replaced. The climate control appears to be working to the degree of changing the fan motor speed based on changing the settings, but regardless of the environment and settings, the air is always HOT now and the compressor is still running and the refrigerant lines are cold.
  • check your primary ignition coil wire to see if it is rubbing against the heater hose...this will cause a significant problem as the wire has a tendancy to ground out and screw up your ignition .
  • I have the same situation as you with the tank fuel pump running even with the car turned off. I changed relay and the problem still exists, any suggestions as to what may be the problem? I have a 95 Blazer. Please help
  • Hey Kevin,
    My 1998 Chevy Blazer has been doing this for the last 5 days. Man, I have been to several auto-electrical shops and have replaced the flasher twice.
    Your explanation has been the best and makes the most sense of all. Just when I had reached the end of my rope. Thanks for the knot. I'll get back with you to let you know how it worked out. Peace out. Ebs57
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