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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • 1989 blazer, 6 cyl, automatic. It sat all winter and had to jump it to get it going. The headlights and everythings worked, just not enough juice to rotate engine. Jumped it and got it started. Let it run for 10 minutes or so and then went to drive it down the road. When i hit the headlights on, engine died. Now I have limited electrical and engine will not start. Put new battery in it and same thing. Wipers, instrument panel, directionals work but little else. No headlights, no radio, nothing. I am lost when it comes to electrical things. I checked the fuse panel and nothing was blown. Where should I start checking? Solenoid blown? Circuit breaker? fuseable link?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    It is unwise to include your email address in a public posting - the spammers love it.

    tidester, host
  • I just purchased a 95' Chevy Blazer from e-bay in October and it recently started to stall. I had a diagnostic test done and well, let me make a long story short. Thus far I've replaced the catylitic converter, 2 oxygen sensors, fuel pump, sending unit, and relay, and something that has to do with the fuel pressure(?) and low and behold the damn thing still stalls. It'll stall a few times then not want to start back up for a while. I'm such a girl and I'm a little car illiterate and not to mention this car is a money pit, So could someone, anyone, please help me or give me advice. And yes, it has gas it in, lol. Thanks so much.
  • tawnyctawnyc Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 1997 jimmy and have had it since 1999 so I am very familiar with it. Recently it has started doing something weird with the headlights when they are turned on. They flash on and off, and inside the vehicle there is a clicking noise and the little green headlight icon on the dashboard flashes on and off. Has anyone heard of/had this problem?? I'm so hoping it's not an electrical issue and something much simpler like a fuse! Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks
  • dont know which engine you have. I have 94 blazer with 4.3 W engine. If your not sure which you have check 8th digit on vin code. the W motor has the fuel line entering the intake from the back of the block. at that point it changes to a plastic fuel line to the "spider" inside engine. I had similar problem, mine would basically flood out when it warmed up. let it sit for awhile and it would run good again for awhile. That plastic fuel line has tendency to crack, which dumps raw fuel into intake and "overloads" engine with fuel, thus making it run like CRAP. hope this helps
  • My GMC jimmy is making a similar noise. It seems to be coming from the right front, just under the dash. Been to 3 mechanics, all can hear it but
    no one can find/fix it. One mechanic went so far as to suggest I had some play in my passenger right door, so since he yanked on it it will not stop making a popping sound going over every bump. Any suggestions.
  • I also have a 2001 GMC Jimmy that I bought "GM Certified" in December of 2003. From the beginning the gas mileage has been a disappointment. I was getting about 175 miles out of a full tank if I let it get close to an eighth of a tank before I fill up again. I haven’t put it in the shop yet to have the mileage problem checked. I’ve done some things myself to try and squeeze out more mileage. 1) I put a high performance air filter on it (K&N Air filter) to improve the airflow; it fits the factory air filter box. 2) I switched to using 100% synthetic oil (Mobil 1), to lessen the friction and extend the life of the engine. 3) Make sure the air pressure in the tires is correct. 4) Make sure the alignment is good.
    After all that, I’ve only increased the gas mileage to 215. I’m going to put it in the shop (Goodyear) and see if they can identify the problem. I just hope it wont cost me an arm and a leg. If someone else has replied to your post with a true fix for the problem, please let me know what it is. Thanks.
  • drdddrdd Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the car ...
  • drdddrdd Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the body ...
  • If you figure it out please let me know. I have a 2001 s-10 blazer. i bought it new from the dealer with 27 miles on in. it now has 64,00. i have a 2 body lift and 31x 10 tires. in the last few month my gas milegage has gone from good to super bad...i now get about 9.5 miles to the gallon. i have done a complete tune up. added fuel injection cleaner and had an induction cleaning done. nothing helps!! (yes i have checked to make sure i do not have a leak in my fuel tank!) also, i just put in a new water pump and thermostat(195 degree) and ever since, my heat will not get hot unless i am driving, it can sit in my driveway warming up for 20 min and my windsheild is still half frozen when i go to leave!! HELP!!!!!
  • agentmjzagentmjz Posts: 1
    How do I go about removing the dashboard and stereo in a 2001 Jimmy? I bought a plug that will enable me to hook up my iPod to the AUX port in the back of the stereo.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Radio Replacement (RPO Code UM6, UM7)
    Removal Procedure

    Caution: Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

    Disconnect the battery negative cable.
    Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator.
    Remove the knee bolster trim panel.
    Remove the screws that retain the instrument panel accessory trim plate to the instrument panel.
    Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate by releasing the retaining clips.
    Position the instrument panel accessory trim plate in order to remove the control switches.
    - Remove the selectable 4WD switch (if equipped). Refer to S4WD Select Switch Replacement .
    - Remove the inflatable restraint IP module switch. Refer to Inflatable Restraint Instrument Panel (I/P) Module Disable Switch Replacement in SIR.
    - Remove the headlamp switch.
    Remove the radio mounting screws.
    Remove the radio.
    Disconnect the electrical connector and the antenna lead.
  • xbdg101xbdg101 Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy my first vehical. it ran great until like a month ago it started to run bad so i gave it a tune up. it helped alot but now it blows alot of smoke from the exhaust i mean alot. when it idals it idals ruff. It has some smoke showing. When you rev it up it hesitates and blows alot i mean alot of smoke. Enough of it to make the truck not visible after holding it at a high rpm for like 10 seconds. the smoke is like bluish grey, in between of blue and grey. also some of the gas is getting into the oil pan and mixing with the oil. does anyone know what my problem could be?

    i havent done a compresion test yet.
    im going to do that tomorrow

    I hope you have some ideas what this could be
  • n2chin2chi Posts: 2
    New to this forum, so sorry if I''m not using it correctly. Friend has a 99 Blazer LT with 4.3 engine and 52K miles. It dies for no reason while moving in traffic. Posts no codes. Gas has been changed numerous times since it began some months ago. Friend is pretty good amateur mechanic, fixes others' cars for money and they're satisfied, but he can't figure this one out. He's checked the obvious, connections, etc.
    Thanks, Dave
  • rich25rich25 Posts: 6
    My 1997 Jimmy has a dead battery last night and it just did all of a sudden. It just would not start. I just bought and installed a new battery and it seems that it's taking up the power of the battry so fast. I just want to know if what is the usual voltage for a newly installed battery because it's showing in the voltmeter at about 14volts and what is the reading of a almost dead battery and good battery on the voltmeter. I don't know much about cars that's why i'm looking for a advice. Thanks...
  • First things First...

    Don't ever use starting fluid in a gasoline engine!

    Your problem very well could be a serious one. When using starting fluid in a gasoline engine the fluid ignites before the piston has reached the the power stroke... Therefore melting the piston head. The piston has rings around it which act like a seal for compression. If you melt the rings (which can be easy to do in a Jimmy) you will lose compression in that cylinder and that will cause your ECM to send a signal to dump more fuel into that cylinder which counter-acts the ignition timing.

    Advancing the timing to a point where the fuel will NOT be ignited and pushed through the exhaust and burnt at the Catalitic converter.

    White smoke... lots of it...

    Get a compression test done before you decide to start pulling rods.

    hope this information is useful to you.

  • 14 volts is very good.
    anything below 12.5 volts is bad...

    A power drain from a battery is only caused by one thing... Your Truck.

    Now what recharges your battery when it is running??? Alternator.

    To check an alternator to see if it is generating power to supply your battery, you need an ammeter to check amps.

    Or remove positive cable from battery while engine is running and test voltage at the cable end... (NOT RECOMMENDED!, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!) but, if you do... lol voltage will increase rapidly if it is working ok, and if the alternator is dead the voltage will stay the same. Which is zero

    Alternators are expensive brand new and usually new doesn't mean good...

    I personally recommend buying a used one.
    Yellow pages under automotive you can find wreckers that sell used parts for cheap.

    Alternator usually 50$ for a Jimmy 6cyl.
  • When diagnosing a problem with a vehicle, Information about the problem is Imperative.

    A dead Jimmy can be caused by many different problems as most of us Jimmy owners have found out.

    However... When a vehicle dies like that, the first thing you should check is your battery voltage guage.

    Second... Check for a large animal or possibly a concrete block under your wheel that might be preventing your vehicle from moving.

    Hope this information has been helpful
  • Check-out message #1099

    Fuel injector cleaner acts in the same way as starting fluid.

    it doesn't burn as fast though... It won't cause ring failure, but it does change the burn rate of the gasoline.

    What happens is the octane has been increased. (a.k.a. burn rate) doesn't burn hotter... just slower... Yes, I said Slower. If this makes any sense at all that should tell you that your spark plugs have just been melted, because your ignition timing has changed. The gas being injected into your cylinders is burning before the power stroke.

    replace your spark plugs and don't use that cleaner again. It does what the bottle says it will, but what it doesn't tell you is that it will also cause things not related to your fuel system to FAIL!

    Did you say 195 degrees for your thermostat?
    is that farenheit? or celcius?

    If your talking Farenheit and havn't replaced anything like a radiator for a bigger one then your thermostat is set too high...

    average thermostat opening temp is 160 degrees Farenheit for a 4.3 lt Jimmy cooling system.
    125 degrees Celcius is Redlined.

    hope this information has been helpful
  • Depending on how many miles your Jimmy has...

    Synthetic oil is not good for older or high mileage engines that havn't been using synthetic oil before.


    Synthetic oil is made using additives...
    additives like... penethanol-sulphate.
    Which seals cracks.

    Also includes different types of detergents. This stuff doesn't like conventional oil. It will make all your original oil seals in your engine LEAK. (eats away old oil)

    This "crack" sealer can and in most cases will seal the wear spots in cam shafts and crank shafts.

    Why this is bad?...
    Bearing movement... The bearings have formed a comfortable seat where they are in your engine using conventional oil.

    When a sealer is added the bearings can become compressed causing excessive wear (forced to make a new seat again)

    At first noticable power loss... then... Snap! goes a rod... then... Booom! goes the intake...

    The only problem is that Synthetic oil is great!
    only in new and unabused engines.

    If your engine has been running on conventional oil for up to 50,000mi... don't switch oils.

    But, if you choose to anyway. Don't drive hard for atleast 5000mi. Sucks eh?
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