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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steve72steve72 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 blazer with 21000 miles. The wife ran out of gas on an incline. She filled up the tank with about 8 or 10 gallons of gas, but the blazer still won't start. In fact, when you turn the key, the fuel gauge reads empty, and you can't hear the fuel pump engage. Don't tell me I'm going to have to take this to a mechanic all because she ran out of gas. Any suggestions?
  • girtygirty Posts: 1
    Well I am feeling your transmission pain!! I have a 98 blazer and it started slipping at about 2 rpm region took it to a dealer like an idiot and told me the transmission is shot..not about to pay them tons to fix it so i was looking into getting a used one but I was thinking about getting it rebuilt. I dont think i will ever buy another blazer, in 2 years i have replaced the radiator, water pump, alternator, lower ball joints and now the transmission. Unbelieveable! I am glad it just isnt me having these problems that i am reading about...
    Gretchen
  • ugarph1982ugarph1982 Posts: 8
    I have the same problem with my '00 Jimmy. I've found an OEM GM updated part for $195. The thing is that so many other things on the truck rattle that I can handle one more noise from the bearing. My question: Does the loose assembly produce a safety concern? Is there a much higher chance that it could pop off during operation and cause a huge mess, or is it simply going to be an annoyance and just fail non-catastrophically at some time? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • 1989 S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L engine (replaced 4.3L). I bought this car in 2003, thought the a/c just needed charged. It was still an R12 system. I decided not to convert to R134 and I bought a product called Freeze12 and followed the directions. In a nutshell, I have replaced a leaking high pressure discharge hose. There are no leaks at all in the system. There is a full charge of Freeze12 in the system. I put on a new low pressure switch on the accumulator. The clutch engages then disengages continuously (start-stop-start-stop, etc.), like it did before I replaced this switch. If I jump the low pressure switch, the clutch runs like it should, but no cold air at any time. The belt is not squeeling, as I believe it would be if the compressor was bad. If I drive with the a/c or defroster on (whether with the jumper on or using the switch like I should), the a/c-heater fuse blows in a very short time. I can only drive with the heater or the vent on without the fuse blowing, but I get vent air coming out of the floor heater and front window defroster if I have the control switch set to Heater, and vent air coming out of the floor heater and vents if I have the control switch set Vent. No cold air blows at any time. (The air coming out of the wrong vents was a problem before I did any under-the-hood a/c work, and I previously replaced the entire heater-a/c controls on the dash, as well as the blower switch, to no avail.)

    Suggestions appreciated.
  • I have a 2000 Blazer which I bought new. I have replaced both left and right front wheel bearing hubs and upper and lower ball joints. These part failures started right around 30,000 miles with the latest problem a left front bearing hub at 56,000. Today my Blazer is in the shop for a front right wheel bearing second time replacement at 61,000 miles. The right was replaced in February 04 with 50,000 miles on the vehicle so I didn't get very many miles out of and it's out of warranty. Anyway the wheel bearing was making a loud humming sometimes howling sound. These repairs are still less than a new car payment but I am disappointed with this vehicle and because of this experience I won't buy GM again.
  • Your Service Engine Soon light blinks only for type A Miss-fires. The oil/Coolant leaks could be shorting out your Ignition system. If not that then your plugs may be Fouled, or wires may need replacing. As a side note, Check Timing chain for ware, should be checked after 100k. Check bottom of heads for leaks. You may need head job. Both antifreeze and oil are in the heads and may be leaking from same place.
  • joevettejoevette Posts: 1
    Whenever I press and release the brakes on my 96 blazer LS, there is a loud noise that appears to be coming from right front side. Have changed the rotor, calapier, brake pads, and shocks. Need help finding out what's causing the noise and how to fix it
  • A follow up on message 1275.
    I got my 2000 Blazer back with a new right front wheel bearing hub yesterday. No charge for the hub or labor to replace it. I have my work done by a local garage and they are mostly less expensive than the Chevy dealer. I was real happy that they replaced the hub at no charge. The mechanic felt the life span of this NAPA part should have been 50000 + miles . Find a good local mechanic and take all your business to them and you'll be amazed at how much money you'll save not to mention much better customer service.
  • crashon290crashon290 Posts: 1
    Re: no power when driving ???? Any one find a fix?
  • y2kdocy2kdoc Posts: 3
    not real sure but if you mean the interior or the lights. I had this once and all i did was cut on the high light switch and off and then cut the lights of and then back on and they came on weird. had no problem since. may be a short. then once the dome and panel would not work and we have an override button, if you have one all i did was kept pushing it in and out and finally it cam back on and had not had a problem since either. dont know if this will help just a sugesstion.
  • bunsignbunsign Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Blazer 4x4 the problem i am having with it is that after I start my truck and put it in to gear it starts shaking. The shaking is light but enough to annoy the heck out of me. also I have a service engine soon light on all the time, also there is black smoke coming out of the exhaust if I hit the gas really hard a big cloud of it comes out. I have had the fuel injector replaced the EGR valve replace and both of the O2 sensors. One of the guys I know told me that he thinks that the seal to one of my Pistons is broken and that there is oil going in there that is why there is black smoke and the shaking. Please someone give me some advise to this problem I am going out of my mind.
  • tsoesbetsoesbe Posts: 1
    we have a 2001 blazer, when the fuel gauge gets down to just below half, it stops moving, then it jumps back to full, then down to empty and the low fuel light comes on, then back to half. All in less then 10 seconds. does anybody have any ideas what this might mean.
  • commdbcommdb Posts: 1
    I also feel your pain, I have a 98 LS 4-wheel drive, it only has 60K miles, and in the last year I have went through 3 sets of front breaks, 2 sets of back. Lower control arm stoppers on both sides of the front. A passenger side wheel hub. Battery and it's connection cables spark plugs and wires, rotor and cap, transmission (I lost 3rd and 4th on my way from St. Louis to Indianapolis). And now I have begun the process of changing the front lower ball joints, Rotors and calipers. And not sure what needs fixed, but the back brakes are not engaging at all.
  • bedrock1bedrock1 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 blazer s-10. It has a 4.3L Vortec V-6. Recently i was driving it and it started dieing on me. The pump was bad. I replaced the pump and the filter, and it still wouldnt start. My neighbor is a mechanic, and he checked it out and said that the injector system was bad. I replace that whole thing and it still wont start. When we first started to turn it over after replacing all this, It sound like it was trying to go for a minute, and then nothing. I have pulled and replaced all plugs, wires, cap, roter and everything. I have checked the plugs and they are dry as a bone. I have good pressure to the Spider legged looking injector box, but nothing out of the injectors. All my wires have spark, trust me it hurt. Please help, htis is getting really expensive.
  • bruiser919bruiser919 Posts: 5
    Please help: I've had it into 2 different mechanics who keep changing parts but have not fixed the initial problem. When I am driving and come to a stop or slow the truck will die. Also occasionally while driving I can have my gas pedal all the way to the floor and it's not doing anything. Almost like it's not getting gas. When it dies sometimes it will start immed. and sometimes it won't. Tired of tow truck and garages. Can someone please help. :cry: Thanks Donna
  • mblosemblose Posts: 1
    I'm stuck in the middle of replacing the water pump on my '98 Jimmy. I can't get the fan off. It appears to thread on to the water pump (based on looking at the new one). I snapped off 2 "pulley to pump" bolts trying t oresist the fan nut. Any suggestions?
  • Hi Cinabug, I have a very similar problem with my 91' Jimmy, have you gotten yours fixed yet and if so what was the problem with it? I have had mine into two different mechanics and they have been replacing parts (many of the same you've listed) and yet I am still faced with the initial problem. $700.00 later and still end up on the back of a tow truck. Please reply. Thanks Donna
  • I have a 91' Jimmy and the dash light for the anti-lock brake system remains on all the time. At first it would come and go , but for the last while it just stays on. I have replaced both front and rear brakes, but the light hasn't gone out? Anyone know why or what I need to do to fix this? :confuse:
  • its easy get a really nice truck for 6000$$ :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Jumper terminals A and H on the data link connector, key on, count the flashes on the light and post them.
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