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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mitch66mitch66 Posts: 3
    Excellent information. I just printed the entire article out and will give it to my tech. It has to be the ABS system. It all points to that. You are good !! I will definitely keep you in the loop on this. I've already recommended this site to co-workers !! My brakes are 70% of the time acting like they need ABS when they don't (dry pavement/normal stopping. I've owned the vehicle since day 1 and know what's normal and not and this is not. Thank you for everything to date.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    99up is 103 ft lbs per Hayes (98 and earlier is 180) for the CV axle hub nut (big 36mm one). The hub attachment bolts that are 18mm (hub to steering knuckle) are 77 ft lbs.
  • msloughmslough Posts: 2
    thanks alot repairdog
  • kozman1kozman1 Posts: 5
    I finally found out the problem. A guy at Jiffy Lube told me that there is a flap installed at the tank (To prevent someone sticking a hose down to steal gas)and this flap some times gets stuck.

    So me being an electrician, I jammed a piece of 6-4 range cable into the spout down to the flap and loosed it.

    Now it doesn't take 10 minutes to pump $20 worth of gas...
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Posts: 11
    Thank you repairdog. Ended up replacing both hubs. As other threads mentioned, the job was relatively easy. I used my tire to rest the rotor/caliper on while working on the hub assemblies.
    The hub assemblies were $115.00 each through AutoZone and they warranty them for one year.
  • izecoldizecold Posts: 3
    Hello, I am having the same problem with my blazer. The clicking noise is coming from the passenger seat around glove compartment. It is anoying, have you found the problem? I replaced the flasher but didnt get anything accomplished. please help.....
    thanks,
  • I got advice from you repair dogg and tried some things in reguards to testing fuel pump pressure in 98 jimmy thank you for that..with key in and in run position pump is reading over 60 psi..yet it still wont start..again i have done plugs, cap, drained and replaced fuel and changed fuel filter and tested pump and can only get the engine to start if i pour directly into the throttle body some gasoline... any more ideas?
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    I dont know what the problem is. It takes over 20 seconds to get to 60mph. And i have only gotten it up to 75. I know it's not a dragster but it should be faster than what it is.

    PS it has a new motor 67k miles. Also it has 31" tires on it. Can that be the problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Was this happening befor the tire change? Which engine is it, the 2.2 or 2.8 V6. On the V6 those were car motors and reaching way back in my brain I had one that kept having the choke assembly not open properly so not enough air getting in. Also check the air filter for restriction/dirty, look to see if any vac leaks (hoses), and how about the fuel filter - been changed?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Multifunction switch in the steering column - search and you will see all the posts.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This one sat for 4 months - any possibility there is water in the gas or the tank full is over a year old and bad. If not, are there any codes with the SES light, i.e. after the key is in run position and all the other dash lights go out is the SES still on? If so read those codes out with a scanner. Did you replace the air filter. Make sure the vac hoses are not broken. In the intake above the air filter is a MAF sensor that can be sprayed with MAF/brake/electronic cleaner (not carb cleaner) - in a honey comb - for computer air flow readings and mixture. Any critter related wires eaten thru - had to ask!
  • teacup3teacup3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy blazer 4WD that just recently started to produce a sort of chirping/whistling sound upon acceleration. Of course it stops if I slow down and press the brakes. What could this be. I recently had it serviced, oil change, new air filter and tires rotated.

    Help
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    I dont know thats how i got the truck but i will be putting some 235/75/15's on it Mon.

    It doesnt have thatplastic thing thats connects it to the front of the grille(from the air cleaner)

    Ill check for vac leaks and fuel filter(where is that?)
  • hey guys i am haveing some trouble with my brakes every time i start to push on the brakes my seems my abs is trying to stop it at normal speed not sure what is wrong . can anyone help me on this

    thanks jamie oops its a 95 jimmy 4wd
  • When my Blazer is idle, the ticking is very loud. When I accelerate it isn't as noticeable. I was told it was the starter, and I had it replaced. However, that wasn't it. Also, when I sometimes stop, the noise is worse and even heads turn to look. When I make sharp turns, it sounds like a thud that doesn't want to stop. ANy clues?
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    In the morning i go to start the truck and it starts right up then she dies. and i have to go thru this about 3 times until shes running. And its a must to tap the gas pedal...
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would look at the carb - 85 only had them as I recall and they were a problem area as they got older. You can rebuild it with a kit or get a rebuilt (around 250-350 so not cheap) - Believe they also had a small fuel filter screwed in the carb base (I only have 98up Blazers 2nd gen with 4.3s). Follow the fuel line for the main filter cause may be under the Blazer. Is the fuel pump getting fuel to the carb, float set correctly, choke working, etc so this is a hard one to do remotely.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is it engine or brake related by the noise location?

    Check the oil level first, then see if they forgot to connect something when they were under the hood. Look at the area behind the air intake assembly at the big air breather tube, then the PCV on the drivers side, and all the same vac hoses running along. Check to see if the air filter housing is all closed up again too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is the ABS or SES light on, if so what codes are read out. Speed sensors in the front hubs and 1 in the transfer case.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Where is the sound coming from - got to find location - engine, front hubs, driveshaft, trans, cause there are many things to look at. What mileage does this 04 (?) Blazer have on it and what was done recently that might ghave triggered the noise?
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    Would like sender replacement procedures for '00 Silverado if possible-thanks.
  • I am having the same thing in a 87 s10 4x4. The oil gauge sending unit is on the driver side of motor above the front drive shaft. My wire fell of and was pulled off by the drive shaft. Oil gauge started jumping and within a few days motor would not turn over. I have replaced battery,starter&starter switch with no luck.I noticed the head lights and radio dont work.I didnt fix the oil sending units wires.As I did not think the problems were related.Hope that this helps.Please let me know if You find out what will fix or electricl gremlins.
  • The sending unit is on driver side of motor. On a 4x4 it is over the front drive shaft about 8" or 9" up. If gauge is jumping may want to look at message#1943
  • Does anyone know if I can access my computer through the stereo? If so, how?
    (2001 Blazer LS)

    Thanks!

    A :confuse:
  • mongo1mongo1 Posts: 49
    Hello folks, First I would like to say thank you to Edmunds and contributors such as "repairdog" for providing such a valuable service to the community. It is gratefully appreciated. Now, on to my question. I have a problem with my Climate Control A/C unit. As noted, the vehicle is a 2000 GMC Jimmy LST with Automatic Climate Control. Occasionally, the AC function will not turn on when switch is pushed. Instead, the light flashes three times. Eventually, the system will engage and cool down the vehicle nicely. I've measured 25 P.S.I. out the low side and 50 degrees at the vents so I don't think it is the compressor or Freon level. On searching the site, I found a similar problem brought to the forum in Message 1378 last July, but no one then could answer. I guess my question is, "Does the 3 flashes indicate some sort of code? and if so, can anyone here decipher? Thanks again in advance
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    No you can't. I saw that some loaded (LTZ)new style Trailbrazers that started in 2002 with 4.0 straight 6 engines (not the S-10s called trailblazers) had a feature like that but have never seen it. You need a code reader or stop by any major auto store and they read for free (so they can sell you parts).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I am not an AC expert but the flashing means it will not activate or turn on. You must be on an AC selectable setting and not defrost ones with the fan ON (not OFF) for it to come on. If you are on the Auto settings on the right and left knob try using another and see if it kicks on - possible dirty switches so rotate them a few times too - actually often works - same on the mirror and widow switches have to push several times to clean contacts. If you search there are some specofic places that are only AC questions so look for autoac - sorry I can't give links per forum rules. Due to having to pull a vac on these systems to work on this is one place I have a good shop do it cause these are known for defective AC compressors that the front seal leaks or blows out by 70k usually and the pressure switches fail also. I have also seen low voltage complaints so is the Blazer reading 14 volts or close when running - the gauges and accessories get strange on these then.
  • mongo1mongo1 Posts: 49
    Once again, I thank you for your quick reply Repairdog. Yeah, I spun the dials a couple of times but I seldom leave the dials in one place for more than a couple of days anyway. I live in Florida and if you don't practice that on everything electrical, you will soon be replacing potentiometers. It seemed to work fine today, so we will see. Once upon a time, I was AC/Delco certified in Air Conditioning and ignitions, but that was back when cars had magnetos and airconditioning consisted of 4 windows down at 80 MPH eating a snow cone! :shades: I actually am in the process of slowly rebuilding this vehicle anyway. Have just finished redoing the entire front end suspension and cooling system. I guess the AC will be next. Thanks again.
  • encoder motor??? I don't be thinking so.... right under the battery try is the vac canister... these little things are always going bad... if there is the slitest little vac leak from the diafram they don't work correctly...so what happens is that the 4x4 front diff dosen't lock up 100% can you get a growling noise... over a peroid of time it will not lock up at all and then all of a sudden it will lock up.

    after market replacment cost is about 50.00 and takes 30 minutes to change.
  • I installed a aftermarket steeing stabalizer on my 98 blazer 4x4... this took care of 90% of my front end problems and saves a lot of wear and tear on the front end. costs $100 for the kit and takes about 20 - 30 minutes for anyone to install.
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