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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Sorry for the delayed response, repairdog. I have already replaced the intake gaskets (about two months ago). Pressure checked the radiator and it was the problem. I replaced it yesterday along with both hoses (did the fan belt while I was at it too). Now my question is how do I remove all the air from the system? Just raise the front of the vehicle and top off the radiator? I'm now getting the same sound in the heater core that I had before replacing the intake gaskets.

    Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Had the same problem on 2 of mine and its the dex cool crap in the heater core so I bought 3 foot sections of 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose, removed the ones at the firewall and tied them up so no dex cool lost, then simply slide the 2 sections on the heater core and flushed with a hose (held hose on end with my hand so not to over pressurize the core and blow it). Seems like not so much an air issue as that heater core getting partial clogs - after this have had no problems with the gurggling or water rushing noises.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Possible completely dead battery so no power at all, totally dead. Replace it, charge it if it accepts any, or try jumper cables to see if power frees up the key (foot on brake pedal).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Correct on the vac hoses. Off the PCV on the intake is the vac feed that goes to a T on the drivers side feeding the reservior cannister in the fender and that hose section often rots out (tight but with alittle effort easily replaced) and then feeds to the front axle actuator. Small is 5/32" and larger 7/32" vac hose.
  • mcgeriscmcgerisc Posts: 3
    I have a 95 blazer S-10 4x4 with a 4.3 vortec. Recently the service engine light came on and it is having trouble idleing. It is almost as the engine wants to stall but it doesn't. I have searched this forum and seen some possible solutions but no exact matches to my issue. I also had a 94 blazer that did the same thing, but it would usually was not an issue if I let it sit for a bit or turned the car off and then on again. I don't see any smoke coming out of the tail pipe but when you are driving it, it will start to smell strange. Sometimes it has trouble starting and you have to give it a little gas. I have seen similar posts that suggest replacing the fuel pressure regulator and then changing the oil. Could this be my best course of action? Why or how does this part go bad? Any help is appreciated!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Need to check the fuel pressure and then search on CPI and see all the info on the leaking pressure reg and lines (nut kiy) inside the intake. Also depends on any codes that show. EGR had carbon builup also so look that up too.
  • mcgeriscmcgerisc Posts: 3
    Thanks, I actually took the EGR valve off and found it severely clogged with Carbon. I cleaned it out and added a gasket to help keep the carbon out of it. So far so good. I guess I will see how it goes driving in the heat of tomorrow. It is not idleing rough anymore. Hopefully that was it.
  • ok my truck is havin problems startin. it keeps fryin the ignition coil. i was told it was something electrical but i dont know what. now it just happened out of the blue when i was makin a u-turn. any suggestions on what can be wrong
    ?
  • hybridprhybridpr Posts: 3
    a few months ago the power door locks just stopped working. also the keyless entry no longer works when i disarm the car alarm. when i press the lock or unlock button on the door, i hear a clicking coming from inside the glovebox from the relays. could that be where my problem is? whats the fix for this?

    thanks,
    joel
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    You need to know which type motor W or X and if TBI or CPI but there is an ignition control module in the distributor that controls the voltage to the coil and if it is failing will not completely shut down so always a low voltage to the coil and it heats up and fails. A long procedure on testing the whole system in Haynes and Chiltons. Module is about $35 at most stores. Newer models have the module outside the dist.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    99up came with factory alarms so yours was added - that may be where the problem is. There is a circuit breaker and relay and I believe that the relay is located behind the glove box with the flasher and blinker relays but not positive on a 96 - check the owners manual and it shows location. Others are under the hood in the fuse box.
  • hybridprhybridpr Posts: 3
    yes we did add the alarm, but that was at least 7 or 8 years ago but the locks have functioned fine with the alarm up until a month or so ago..

    thanks again
    joel
  • 95blaze95blaze Posts: 2
    I own a 1995 chevy blazer, the car has about 193,000 miles on it and i have a problem where the gauge fuse pops almost everytime i turn on the car. with this happening it doesnt turn on the alternater and the car stalls. what is the problem? and wat can i do to fix this from happening agian?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Get the alternator tested and the battery - free at most stores. If this has the electronic/digital dash they have had many problems and there are online places that sell rebuilts that correct the shorting.
  • 95blaze95blaze Posts: 2
    i have a brand new alternator and a brand new battery the alternator works its just that the fuse that keeps poping turns the alternator on. as for my dashboard its the normal dash its not digital. any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Do the door switches (for the light) work OK cause many alarms use that to activate and some lock systems also won't lock if think the door is open. Master lock switch in the door could be bad also or the wiring could have a short - look at the bundle in the rubber sleeve where you open the door - it justs has a lip and pops out.
  • tthomsontthomson Posts: 3
    It sounds like the axle is trying to engage in the front and when I come to a stop I hear and feel a clunk and then its gone. It happens in 2wd from out of nowwhere. Could it be a vac line problem in the 4wd actuator. I thought the vac issue kept them from engaging when you tried to put them in 4wd. I guess what I'm asking is it possible for it to try and randomly engage on its own and if so what is the remedy?

    Thanks
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Sorry for the delay. . .work is a pain. Anyway it happened again yesterday on the way home and this morning. I popped the hood and my little underhood light was still out. So I grabbed the hot lead at the point of corrosion and moved it about just a bit (flexed it one way or the other). Lo and behold my little light pops on and it wants to start. Sounds like it tried to flood itself but once running, runs like a champ. I also think the vibration of the road makes it run a tad rough but I think it is trying to short itself out. I would love to try to replace it myself but I am 6'2" and have big hands. Plus I really can't see anything because it disappears down under. Anyway what it could a good price for such a repair lilke this?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    About 4 days ago my Blazer started leaking antifreeze so i changed the water pump,but it still leaks..It's leaking out as fast as i pour it in.It seems to be coming from up high behind the air conditionig compressor..Anyone have any Ideas where it is coming from???
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    The problem could be a leaking intake manifold gasket. If this is the problem, then you need to get it fixed ASAP because the coolant could be mixing with your oil. This problem is typical with GM's 4.3 V6.
  • i have 1998 chevy blazer,how can i get the check engine light to go out without fixing anything?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    If its the intake gasket could you still have an external leak ?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The Cheverlet dealer in my area told me to turn the ignition on dont start .And pump the the gas 3 times all the way to the floor..I have a 96 Blazer having the same issue.He also said that was the code for 2000 and up, wasnt sure about later models.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Auto stores will read the code, then try to sell you the part to fix it (optional), then have them clear the code. Its free and alot of them are sensor related so post the code so we can give you the fix - if you need help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Never heard that one on an S-10 Blazer - maybe a newer 02up Trailblazer model.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Lower intake leaks are very common by 100k miles and can leak out the front between the intake and engine block and the drivers side is right behind the AC so start her up and watch for a leak after it warms up. Also common is the area between the valve cover and intake and then it runs off depending on parking angle. Get the free loaner radiator pressure tester at the local auto store and pump up the system and look for the leak.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    It didnt work on mine eather,But he did say he wasnt sure.Come to find out it was my fuel cap was defective apparently the tank has to hold a certain amout of pressure..
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    You dont have to start it . It leaks when cold just pouring it in.Runs out as fast as i can fill it.You can also hear like air suction when filling the radiator.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look above the transfer case for a vac switch unit (97 earlier had them) - could be bad or lines rotted. Seen many posts on this and the front coupler engaging partially so search online.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If it is that lower intake leaking do not drive it or you will blow the engine most probably at that extreme loose. Could also be going into the valley under the intake or if overheating could take a head gaskey out. Costs approx $500-600 at shop to fix due to over 5 hours labor and the parts - done 2 so far and with prep and cleanup and fixing other moinor things along the way both took me 9 hours. If you do not really have the knowledge get it done by a shop.
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