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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did you follow the new instructions on the alternator install cause they are polarized now and the sequence of connecting the terminals on the alternator is critical or you can reverse polarize it - have the store run the free test and see - or could have a bad IC in the new one - happens.
  • flryiteflryite Posts: 2
    covah23,

    did you ever find a solution to your strange noise? I am experiencing the same thing (99 Blazer 4x4), exactly as you described. Thought it was tire noise, bought new tires, noise is still there. Wondered if you ever sussed out the problem.

    When driving faster than 40 mph, the slightest turn of the wheel; and I get what sound like tire noise, or tire rubbing. The noise is loudest on the freeway when changing lanes. For me, the sound occurs in the right front tire when turning LEFT. I do not hear the sound when going slower than about 40 mph.

    Anyone else have any ideas?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The funny thing is it dosent overheat,its staying normal at about 200 degrees..That why I dont understand loosing so much coolent why isn't it overheating?And it's not pulling any out of my reserve tank.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    I also have a 98 blazer that the wipers seem to work when they want to not when you need them. They will go for 2 weeks not work at all then all sudden they start working for a couple days then it starts all over again . Anyone else had this problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Common one - the circuit card in the wiper motor often has cracked or burnt paths on it and as it flexes it works or not. Card is under the wiper motor cover (3 torx screws) and is availble at dealer or many auto stores - you only need the card not the whole motor. Sometimes by pulling it out and cleaning the card and reinstalling and not over tightening the screws it works OK again - grease gets all over it. Seal the edges with silicon to keep water out. $50 part.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    98up have 1 piece sealed hubs and when the bearings start to go thats the classic noise - turn left and the right gets the load on it. To be sure jack the wheel up and spin it and if the hub grates or grinds replace it. For your 4wd jack up under the lower control arm so the CV axle isn't extended or hanging down - wheel doesn't turn too well if CV is in the full flexed position. Rebuilt axle is about $75 for the entire assembly - part only.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    I have a 2000 Blazer, Trailblazer trim, 4 door, 4WD, 55,000 original miles. Its ABS began to activate too sensitive in the last few months. When the vehicle gently slows down, at the last moment right before it comes to a full stop, ABS kicks in. The road is dry, and the vehicle did not have ABS activated until a few months ago in the similar conditions. ABS does not get engaged when the brake is applied while the vehicle is moving. It occurs perhaps a few times a day, but not always. What is the problem?
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    (2001 blazer 101,500 miles)I've started feeling a harmonic type vibration that cycles during speeds of 55 and up. This morning after I reached the parking lot at work, with the window down while parking, I heard a squeaking noise as well. Sound like U-joints? I've looked at them before and they're not greaseable. Wheels and tires new and balanced. The vibration isn't felt in the steering wheel, but in the seat of my pritches.
  • jmaysjmays Posts: 2
    Ok here we go I got a humming noise coming from the front end while going done the road. no bangs or pops and is fine when turning. I got new tire now because i thought it was the old ones making the noise.also new shocks brakes and rotors and calibers. I check the cv joints they got aliitle play in them. I drove the car in circles no popping or clicking. this is driving me nuts I even engaged the 4 wd drive a few time and no difference.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    4wd so check the front diff and see if its full 80w90 gear oil. Could also be transfer case so check that. Then theres the 1 piece hubs but have to jack it up and feel the grate/grind in them.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be u-joints and if you change them get the drive shaft balanced (good machine shops do it) and for 2 joints and bal a total of under $100 - you pull and install the shaft. Also I had my 01 drive me crazy and it turned out to be out of round rear disc/drum assemblies - the disc was good but the drum portion for the parking brake was oval so at 60mph up actually bounced/hopped alittle - can see if you put on jack stands and watch the drum part rotate - about $35 each so cheap to change.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Get the system checked but you need an ABS reader so sorry but the dealer is the best one for this.
  • wgochwgoch Posts: 4
    A belated thank you for the assistance. You were right; that switch was the problem. Wasn't too difficult but, if I could have gotten my hands on the engineer who designed the steering column covers, I would have probably worked him over with a tire iron. Clearly, repair and maintenance were not design considerations (and who in their right mind would use reverse torx head screws to attach anything?) If anyone else has to tackle this problem and cannot find a small reverse torx driver to fit the two switch attachment screws just deform the end of a 1/4" drive 4mm socket to make an acceptable substitute.

    Thanks again, repairdog
  • jmaysjmays Posts: 2
    I did notice when I go around a curve to the right to noise stops. Or if i turn fast to the right while going straight it quits. So I guess it be the passenger side hub bearing that is bad then. What do you think :sick:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Turning right puts the left or drivers side under load so that may be the bad one - again jack the front up under the lower control arm and see if it grates/grinds - check both sides and you can feel and hear a bad one.
  • wolfym1wolfym1 Posts: 1
    Hi:
    You mentioned that GM has a SB on the secondary air injection system. we have just spent $650 at the Chevy dealer trying to get our 2001 Blazer with 50k miles to pass NYS inspection. This has been going on since June and still no inspection sticker. The dealer says we have to drive it to get things to clear...they also said if it doesn't clear, you might as well park it. Do you have any other info that might help us in resolving this problem with the emission system on our vehicle?
    Thanks.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    Thanks repairdog it was the intake gasket, just got it back today .Not to expensive $356.00....
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The only thing is I just went and checked and they didn't put Dexcool back in it, they used green coolent will this affect it??
  • robyn101robyn101 Posts: 3
    I've tried all suggestions to date; I've tried to shift into 2hi while in park, in neutral, with foot on brake, while backing up. I also disconnected the battery for 30 min. after which the 2hi light blinked continuously but still didn't go in to 2hi. Before disconnecting battery 2hi light only blinked once everytime 2hi button pushed. It has reverted back to blinking once when pushing 2hi button. I don't know if there is any connection, but when I shut off the ignition there is a high pitched whistle. Please any suggestions welcome.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Should not if the system was totally flushed of orange Dex cool - many have switched over due to the problems with it and if air gets in the system it makes a mess in the rad and heater core. I still run the Dex due to chemical reactions in the aluminum radiator but most articles say no problem with green - if you switch back to Dex now a total flush of the whole system to get all green out is required or the Dex will not work chemically (correctly).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Time to get the hands dirty- check all vac lines under hood - 5/32 and 7/32" lines and primary is from the intake by the PCV to the drivers side and it Ts off - check line to reservior in the fender well to, then down to the vac actuator under the battery tray (yes - pain to get to) and that one engages the front axle coupler and there is a sensor there that tells the TCCM (computer for 4wd) that its engaged. Also one on transfer case telling that the encoder motor for 4LO only that low gear is engaged. TCCM can fail so dealer can test and replace but not cheap.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sounds like your dealer is lazy/stupid/untrained or a combo - insist a zone rep to review the case now. This system has 2 check valves, 2 90 deg rubber hoses, a pump, then 2 solenoids to activate it mounted right next to it. Then more hoses underneath and a T plastic fitting. They have the TSB but really if just says replace all parts that are bad and then the intake hose on the pass side of the radiator is extended so water is not sucked in. If all parts work the system works so they are missing something - I fixed my 99 and 01 and both were a total mess and all parts were burned or not working due to the water. No codes or problems after that. Search online on "DTC P0410 Sec Air Injection - How to Repair and Part#s" and I put all info to fix out there after my having to find parts and the dealer was fairly clueless - in fact they wanted to sell me a diff pump. Good parts stores can order Delco for you with the part # so those are included.
  • Just bought a 95 Blazer. There is a buzzing noise coming from on top of the fuel tank. Does the Blazer have a electric fuel pump on top of the gas tank, and should I be concerned that it is fixing to go out. It doesn't make this buzzing noise all the time. Thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The electric fuel pump is in the tank but the connections are on top and a whine is normal from it more so when you first turn the key as the system pressurizes. There are 2 lines a supply and return on newer vehicles to cycle the fuel and help cool it and the pump. If concerned you can see the top (on 4 door) of the tank by lowering the spare tire and that allows access (restricted) to the area.
  • mays_jlmays_jl Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice it was the passenger side hub. $140 and a 36mm socket and a large 3 jaw puller. was a easy job with these tools about 3 hrs.And that bearing was trashed wish they could make a repair kit instead of replacing the whole hub. :)
  • I have a 2002 blazer ZR2. The clicking/griding sound seems to be coming from the front passenger side axle/hub somewhere. However when i drive in 4x4 Hi it goes away. When put it back in 2 wheel hi it comes back. It's there while moving slowly and gets faster with speed. I first noticed it when slowing down on the interstate to exit. It's there all the time now in 2 wheel hi. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you
  • I have the exact same problem. Please tell me you figured out what caused it.
  • Have you had any luck? My 98 Jimmy's doing the exact same thing.
  • 2002 Blazer ZR2. More information: In 4WD HI the clicking does continue only when turning. I jacked up the front tires individually and rotated them with no noise on each tire. So i guess i can rule out bearings and hubs, correct? What in the diff. would cause it to click. If i unplug the diff. lock wire, would this be a temporary fix for summer?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If only in 4Hi (or 4Lo) then could be CV axles. Remember 4Hi is off road only and not meant for the street - only the Autotrac 4Hi (4 button system) is allowed on dry streets cause the transfer case has clutch packs in it - 3 buton systems do not. Why would you disconnect the "lock wire" - just don't engage it - plus that wire is a sensor that tells the TCCM the front axle is coupled for 4wd. Actuator is under the battery and the cable moves the axle coupler via a vac switch. Check the front diff gear oil level also.
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