Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1959698100101179

Comments

  • impalacabimpalacab Posts: 11
    The selector on the dash turns to solid light on both 4Hi and 4Lo. When I have the car raised and engine running and put in gear in 2Hi, the rear drive shaft rotate and the rear wheels turning. When I put in a gear in 4Hi or 4Lo, the front and rear drive shaft rotates, but only the rear wheels spin... There are no visable damage anywhere on the front differential, axle, tubes and so. The vacuum activator pulls the wire, and I can pull the wire by hand when I disconnect it from the activator (but it´s hard to move).
  • taiu476taiu476 Posts: 2
    Thanks repairdog, for the info. Yes the service engine light has come on and I have lost a lot of gas mileage. Could O2 sensors be responsible for running slightly rough too? Is there any way of testing o2 sensors or do you just go ahead and replace em any way? I have almost 90,000 miles on Blazer so is it a good idea to go ahead and replace em? Also, I am planning a tunep. planning on new spark plugs, New K and N filter element (Old one hopelessly dirty), and replace o2 sensors. Is there anything else anyone can think of that would be a good idea to check into? Thanks repairdog and all else who reply.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    First go to the auto store and get the codes read out to tell you if one is bad. If that air filter is that dirty a new one may be the fix, plus your MAF sensor is now probably really dirty so spray it with MAF cleaner (or electriacl contact or brake cleaner) and that may fix mileage too. The K&N works great but don't over oil it or it sucks onto the MAF sensor. Plugs (platinum) and a new cap/rotor, PCV, fuel filter (every 30K min)and check the plug wire resistance and be careful and rotate the ends before pulling off the plugs or you will be buying wires!
    Hope you flushed that Dex cool by now and got a new cap too - many posts on that issue. Don't forget the trans (and xfer case if 4wd)fluid change.
  • Have 92 S10 Blazer V-6 4X4-It was hit on side and totaled. I found a 92 donor without eng or trans w/ good body. I have already removed eng from one wrecked. The wiring harness on donor has been cut in eng compartment. Looking at eng. compartment and to the left and below A/C you have A wire harness that enters the vehicle. How do I go about removing that harness? I am also going to pull ECM.
    Thanks for any help. :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Mine are 98up 2nd gen Blazers but most of the harnesses come thru a firewall grommet and the plug end (ends) is behind the dash or kick panel - not much help here. Hope someone replys with help but keep searching. Seems like mostly newer Blazers on this forum. Splicing may be risky cause thats a high moisture/heat area with AC and wheel well splash.
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Posts: 6
    vortec 4.3 in a 94 blazer has no power
    it takes me several miles to get the thing up to 55 mph
    and it does not go over 65 mph
    rpms and temperature are good, so is compression and fuel pressure
    the engine sucks down the gas because i have to keep the pedel on the floor when on the highway
    the trany seems to be shifting ok, overdrive, locking torque, and is in 2wd
    i also checked timing and spark
    i am guessing TPS or maybe something wrong with the cpi and the popet nozzles
    if any ideas please let me know
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    That actuator pulls a gear to couple the right pass axle so from what you say I would suspect that is the area to examine. When that axle is coupled and the front drive shaft is turning you should have at least one axle/wheel turning thru the front diff -if that was bad then you would have grinding. Its a 98 so 3 button 4wd I assume (not Autotrac or 4 button cause that is not engaged until wheel slippage sensed via the ABS sensors if selected and the transfer case has clutches in it).
  • hey can anyone help me on this i am trying to figure out how u replace the front side turn and parking lights. i throught i could get to it by takeing the battery out but there is still no room to reach it . is there an easier way of doing this . ? thanks
  • Hi all! I own a 96 blazer with a miraculous amount of miles on it and it's been a good vehicle but my DRL's flicker when the lo beams are on, and when I use my turn signals. It doesn't do it when the hi's are on. It also doesn't do it when only the DRL's are on in the daytime.The relay also clicks to match the flickering which is alot like a strobe light. I've replaced the relays,bulbs,on/off switch and checked the wiring.Could it be the multi function switch that controls the dimmers, wipers, etc.?Please help! I actually have people pull off the road for me because they think there is an emergency lol.
  • impalacabimpalacab Posts: 11
    Yes, it´s a 3 button 4wd. And there´s no abnormal sounds at any speeds, no humming, grinding or anything. I suppose there´s some kind of fork or something like that, that´s pulled by the wire and couple the right axle? I think next step for me would be to drain the front diff and open it to have a look inside.
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Yesterday morning I had an interesting problem occur for the first time. When I started my '01 Blazer (94,500mi) to go to work, both left and right lifter banks rattled, as if the crankcase was empty! I shut it off and checked the oil (5W30)...having just change it, level was good. Fired it back up, only to rattle again. The pressure gauge read 40psi as usual, so I let it idle. Slowly it quieted down and was fine, but I noticed the pressure gauge sweep exaggeratedly with RPM increase like the tach, well below 40 and beyond the typical 50psi. This wasn't the normal pressure increase/decrease I'm use to seeing on a cold Michigan morning. Two more times this went on after sitting for an extended period of time. This morning, the situation wasn't as bad and the pressure gauge worked as it has in the past (more stable). The only thing I have done different is switched to synthetic oil two changes ago (maybe 10,000 mi). Is there a antiflow back/check valve that could have failed, possibly plugging the oil passages? I plan on changing the oil again today, even though it doesn't need it to see if the pick-up tube on the oil pump is plugged with something. Could the oil pump be taking a dump? With the good oil pressure I can't hardly believe it. I know this can't be good to starve the valve train of lubrication at start-up (or any time for that matter!)
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Oil pumps usually don't fail and for a Blazer I would be looking at the coolant level because if this is recent its the classic leaking intake manifold symptom. Have you seen the reservior losing fluid, fill and watch over a few days at the same operating temp. When the intakes start to leak they often do it into the valley with the lifters and spray Dex Cool in there that you don't see in the oil - 3 of my 4 Blazers have done this around 90-100k miles. Normal pressure is 20-60 idle to higher rpm as they age and clearances open up. The filters do have an anti drainback valve but that would only cause a rattle for several seconds as pressure came up - are you still changing the oil filter regularly with the syn oil - could be a failing valve in the filter - especially if a cheap one. Do a search on filters and see the many reports online.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Diff circuits than my 98up ones but after a search common items were as you said, the switch(you replaced, was #1 choice),relay(replaced), wiring (did you look at the trailer wiring??), and bulbs (original wattage - higher power will thermal cycle the headlights). Hate to say it but after these repairs the dealer is the next stop and should be an hours labor to find what really is causing this. Post what the fix is when you find it.
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Yes, still changing syn oil regularly... can't seen to let it go much beyond the 3000 mile change, even though synthetic is suppose to last longer. I have been watching the oil and coolant for signs of cross contamination, and haven't seen the tell tail, but that doesn't mean that it isn't happening. I am however, loosing coolant from the overflow reservior at a very slow rate. Is there a way to determine which gaskets are going, or should I do both heads and intake? Are there an updated intake gasket that eliminates this happening again? Any guesstimate as to what a dealer charges?
    Kevin
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Well, just spoke with the local dealership, and the labor charge out is 4 hours. Total coast including an oil change $416.21 (us). I can ill afford having the vehicle down for longer than a day, so it is scheduled for gasket replacement tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.
    Kevin
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Thats about right. Intakes leak in, or out the front where the intake meets the block, or up between the intake and valve covers (then evap or run off depending on parking angle). The loss could be a leaking water pump out the bearing hole but you would see this dripping. The dealer should confirm with a cooling system pressure test before they start. The head gaskets are pretty good on these motors unless you get them really hot (peg the gauge) a few times. Hope it all works well. Ask them about the cooling system (flush) cause that heater core does clog and leak and sometimes after the intake the water pump goes too - don't worry, only want to prepare you for several things that you may see. That Dex Cool has problems when air gets in the system and the radiator caps are a known GM problem with several redesigns. Ask the dealer to submit the cost to the zone for paying half but usually over 5 years and 75k they will not, but never hurts to ask them - will take a few days for an answer.
    After you get it back buy a new Stant cap. Make sure the dealer is installing a new thermostat too (only adds a few $ when they do the intake).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If they are like many older GMs they are by the headlight which is held in by 3 or 4 screws (don't take the aiming ones out - springs on them and you should see the diff) and then you can access. 98up the whole grill pulls out.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    How many miles on this, recent work done, any tuneup, does it start and idle OK, rev up in park, need more info cause could be many things. CPI systems have known leaks under the upper intake with fuel dumping in. Ignition module in dist and other sensors that could be bad. Any codes?
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Had the system flushed (core reverse flushed) last year, to restore heat in the cabin. Already had purchased a new Stant thermostat, just never got around to putting it in yet, so I'll bring it with me and have them install it. I have to stop and get synthetic oil for the change tomorrow, as all they use is conventional and I want to stick with the man made stuff. While I'm at it I'll get a new Stant cap...what is it 15-16lb cap? I certainly appreciate your quick response! I'll keep you posted, and visit often for more advice.
    Kevin
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Posts: 6
    try removing the 4 top screws that hold the grill in place.
    it comes out easy if your bumper is not too banged up.
    the bottom of the grill just sits on two plastic pins.
    the side marker lights just come out with it.
Sign In or Register to comment.