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Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil Questions

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Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Siberia,
    Some time ago I posted these pictures:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Corps_filtre.jpg
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Purge.jpg
    You will see the two connectors on the bowl.
    The fuel heater is a 3/4 turn ring element that is fixed inside the bowl.
    The filter cartridge has an empty volume (recess) built in just above the heater element.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Right! That's what I thought you meant. The US CRD has 3 plugs (1 on the filter, 2 on the housing) and the primer that I'm sure you have seen in pictures also. With the Racor pictured I end up with and extra plug (or am I missing one?), no primer and have to possibly modify the wiring. The thing that I like about the Racor is the clear bowl that allows contaminants other that water to be seen. Thanks for reposting the pictures, I have 12k miles to think about it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    The dirty looking white knob located on top of the filter mount/housing is a priming pump. It works like a bicycle pump and has an o-ring under the knob to seal it off when screwed in. Then you have access to the check valve under the white plastic screw/cap located in front of the priming pump. You can replace or clean it if your fuel returns to the tank.
    The Parker filter housing is accessible and repairable. Yours is quicker to prime, every 40,000 miles :(
    When you buy the marine version, the mount/housing is painted beige. DC saved a penny by not painting it.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Thank you for going the extra kilometer on you explanation. The US CRD fuel filter heater is sandwiched between the filter and the filter head. This is the only image that I could find of it and the unit is fried. You can see where the other connector goes - fuel temperature sensor to operate heater relay?

    http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000330cp2.jpg

    Please take a look at the catalogue below specifically page 9.

    http://www.usdieselparts.com/pdf/pdf/Section01.pdf

    Is that your unit, model 230R, using R20S 2 micron cartridge and “Heater and See-thru Bowl”? Racor tells me that they think the R20S will fit on the US CRD filter head. If that is the case I can get by just buying the R20S cartridge and a non-heater see-thru bowl and install my existing water sensor. I am going to order the parts and find out.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    230R_P_12 is what I have. It's flawless.
    If you retrofit this on your truck, spend the extra dollar on the purchase of two stainless steel elbow fittings ("Swagelock" or equivalent) for the fuel hoses.
    You were lucky not to set fire with the fried connector :sick:
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Well, someone was lucky. I borrowed the pic from another site. I hope that does not become a common failure.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Siberia.... Let me know how you comeback with this adaptation and if you do; what about the bleeding port, you know that air is a comun issue on the CRD.
  • gbosticgbostic Posts: 2
    The oil appears to be coming from the oil seperator on the bottom end relief gadget on the top of the valve cover. The hoses from the oil seperator to the intake to turbo, the intake hose from the union where the hose from oil seperator t's in, the turbo and all hoses and the intercooler all the way to throttle body are oil soaked. For sure some of the oil if not all of it is coming from the valve cover relief unit. Is there any way to determine if any of this oil is coming from the turbo shaft seals? Should oil be bypassing the oil seperator on the valve cover? Any help appreciated.

    George
  • I believe it is becoming a common failure. My vehicle has been in the shop for the last two weeks. During a routine fuel/water separator filter change, the tech noted that a fuel leak through the sensor plug (into the housing). Currently there is a back order of 888 of these units with no firm release date. I for one cannot wait that long. I have been reading the forum with interest, particularly if there is an option available. I am not a mechanic, but I take care of my CRD and get the service done. Just don't know if it could be as simple as an O-ring. Any help would be appreciated, including what parts I would need to get. I would assume the pic of the fried connector occurred in a wet (fuel rich) environment. If air/oxygen was not available, the failure would have difficulty propagating into a fire. Thanks.
  • We have been using biodiesel. The fuel temp sensor in the intake that controls the glow plug timing had failed. All four of the glow plugs also. The vehicle starts and runs instantly for about 15 sec. and then shuts down. Is there an override shutdown signal coming from the fuel/water seperator that might be shutting down the engine. Engine runs, sounds and feels good for the 15 sec.

    Thanks,

    George
  • I just bought a 2005 Liberty and plan on using B99 Biodiesel in South Florida.
    I have had great success with my 2001 Freightliner FL70 3126 Cat.

    The secret to success with Biodiesel is slow intergration and filter changing.
    5%, 10%, 20%, 99%
    This process took me 3 months to do.

    Is there anything I should know with the Jeeps operation on B99?
  • George,

    Can I get the name of the dealership and service manager you brought it to.
    I want to know what went wrong and why.
    I'm going to run B99 and want to know if I can override these problems.

    Regards,
    Joel
  • Dear Gang,

    Let me tell you what happened with the BioDiesel in my 2005 Liberty.
    I went to the store and out of the blue lost 90% of the engines power.
    However, when I put it in neutral I got 3-4000 rpm.

    This is a sign that the BioDiesel is cleaning out the system.
    At this point my buddy who has been a diesel mechanic for 30 years said to shut it down before the glow plugs melt.

    I changed the filter. It ran fine again.
    Remember....carry an extra filter and one pint of BioDiesel (in a non-plastic container) in the Jeep.

    If anyone has questions, please feel free to contact me.

    After a Cat3126 in my FL70 and the Jeep CRD I think I get it by now.
  • Hi! I was wondering if you have figured out the problem? We have recently bought a 2005 Jeep CRD and are having this issue. Please let me know. Thanks!!!
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi slowzuki2003,
    Some oil additives seem to migrate through the hose material. There is nothing to worry about besides getting your hands dirty.
  • tclufftcluff Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Jeep liberty diesel and it is burning oil. At idle I get a large amount of smoke from the exhaust This is engine oil smoke and not diesel smoke. I have replaced the Pressure relief valve that is connected to the intake (preturbo) and that did not remedy the oil smoke from the exhaust. My concern is: could it be the turbo seals or is it more likely to be piston ring failure? I have no power loss and it seems to be running fine but the other cars at the stoplight get smoked out when I'm waiting for the light to change. It is really embarrassing to be driving such a nice vehicle and to have it smoke like the engine is going to blow up. Please help!!!!!!!
  • tclufftcluff Posts: 3
    I have this same problem and I replaced the pressure relief valve and clean all of my intake hoses. My problem is that my jeep smoke at idle at stoplights and stopsigns. I am wondering if anyone has had this problem as well and if I should be concerned about turbo shaft seals or if it's a more pronounced problem like piston ring failure.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    My comments are directed at those who complain about the poor quality of the Jeep.

    Let us face it, the issue is not so much the engine as in the care or lack there of, not following the reasonable guidelines set out by Chrysler, the use of inappropriate lubricants, and on some occasions poor dealer/service quality.

    Let us face it, America is really not ready for good quality European diesels. Americans are not willing to invest the few extra minutes it takes to keep these engines running properly. Let us also consider that most American diesel fuel is swill and it is a wonder that these engines run as well as they do. I add goodly amounts of cetane improver and other additives to each tank of fuel resulting in less smoke, easier starting and better overall performance.

    I have spoken to several MB diesel mechanics who have told me that when the MB diesels arrive from Europe they run beautifully but after a few tankfuls of American diesel, they do not run as well. Whatever component failure they do see, especially turbos is usually a result of poor care by the owner. That makes me wonder. At my dealer, the tech is really very good. They have several other customers with CRDs who do not care for them as they should be cared. I have, with the dealer having asked me to do so, spoken with at least one of these people in an effort to help them. I have pointed people to this and other forums and had them look especially at the advice given by Caribou1.

    I know we are all busy, but investing a little time into caring for this very good engine has big dividends.
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