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Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil Questions

2

Comments

  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Can we assume then that the WIX 33647 that is specified for the CRD fits the requirement of 2 microns? I did not have any luck tracking down a WIX a year ago. It was a special order item that was not available. According to the WIX web site it should be available now.

    link title
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    I looked at WIX web site and found nothing concerning filtration size:

    http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,WIX,Fuel%252FAir,6200,Fuel+Filter

    Then "Part Number Search" tab


    Part Number: 33647
    Principal Application: Jeep Liberty w/ 2.8L Common Rail Diesel (05-06) All Applications
    Style: Spin-On Fuel/Water Separator Filter
    Service: Fuel
    Type: Full Flow
    Media: Paper
    Height: 7.322
    Outer Diameter Top: 3.444
    Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
    Thread Size: 16X1.5 MM

    Gasket Diameters:
    O.D. 2.770
    I.D. 2.440
    Thk. 0.240


    Personally speaking I would not use this cartridge because two main functions will be removed:
    - The water in fuel sensing
    - The pre-heating of the fuel for winter use.

    Don't you have a Parker Racor equivalent? Mine is the R20S. It's the clone of the Mopar filter, and Parker once wrote they were doing good business with Chrysler Marine Diesel :shades:
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i think the 33647 wix filter is the right filter it hasn't ben released because it was sold to crysler under contract now available i think
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    I found this code concerning the Grand Cherokee. It could be similar to the Liberty CRD.

    P0178:
    -Water in Fuel Light—Water In Fuel Sensor Voltage Too Low

    Cause:
    - Loss of water-in-fuel circuit or sensor.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribout1.... If you look at the filter the filter is a clone of the mopar filter. The one that don't have the water fuel sensing orifes is the cat175-2949 that lubrication specialist are selling as the replacement for the mopar filter. I am with you for the sensor, but the source said that you do not need that sensor because as soon as the water get in to the paper filter it will destroy it. Can we replaced the housing assembly with the racor 645 housing assembly and filter. I will look at the R20s on the web.

    Nescosmo
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1.... I look at the R20s and it does not look like the mopar at all also the racor645 that i mention i think is too big for the jeep; I was talking about the racor 445 housing assembly. I think it could work with the S filter.

    Nescosmo...
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Caribou1.... I just read in the KJ Service Manual on page 14-52 of the CD it said:- The fuel filter has a 3 micron element and tightens clock-wise to the housing.(fig.9)- so if the service manual is correct then we should not worry about it.

    Nescosmo
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Personally speaking I would not use this cartridge because two main functions will be removed:
    - The water in fuel sensing
    - The preheating of the fuel for winter use.


    The water in fuel sensor came with the CRD originally and screws into the bottom of the replacement filter in lieu of the drain plug that comes with the replacement, so the sensor is not lost. The sensor is just 2 electrodes in the plastic that measure the conductivity of the water if high enough.

    The preheating element is not in the filter itself. The original filter I disassembled was simply a canister with a filter element. The canister extends well below the filter to provide room for water. Is the heater in the housing that holds the filter?

    I would prefer to use a Racor with a clear bowl. I contacted Racor about a year ago and they said that they thought the R20S(if memory serves) would work but could not say absolutely so I did not order one.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    -There are two connectors on the clear bowl.
    -Both heater and water sensors are located inside the plastic bowl.
    -The R20S filter cartridge has a 'chamber' for allowing a volume of fuel to remain around the heating element.

    European 4x4 clubs promote Parker-Racor filters when preparing for African rallies. When you're not certain of what will be poured into your tank, you add another filtration element to the one I received with the truck. My fuel filter element has 20,000 miles and doesn't show any sign of fatigue.
    The plastic bowl is really neat to detect the presence of water: I apply a flashlight underneath the bowl, next to the connectors. :shades:
    When illuminated, the colour of the plastic bowl full of fuel is like tea (or american coffee ;) )
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Bou, I am having trouble making the connection between what you have and what we have. I have no heating element that extends into the filter. The top of the filter looks a lot like an oil filter with no chamber. Are you saying that one of the plugs from the filter housing can be moved to a connector on the Racor filter? I only have one electrical connection on the filter itself and that is the water sensor. Right now I am just looking for a quality inexpensive replacement for the factory fuel filter that is easy to find. The Jeep dealers around here are not real big on keeping the stock filters in stock so a WIX from a local parts jobber seems like the way to go. I am not closed minded to something better it's just that sometimes a complicated life takes the easy path.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    Siberia,
    Some time ago I posted these pictures:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Corps_filtre.jpg
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Purge.jpg
    You will see the two connectors on the bowl.
    The fuel heater is a 3/4 turn ring element that is fixed inside the bowl.
    The filter cartridge has an empty volume (recess) built in just above the heater element.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Right! That's what I thought you meant. The US CRD has 3 plugs (1 on the filter, 2 on the housing) and the primer that I'm sure you have seen in pictures also. With the Racor pictured I end up with and extra plug (or am I missing one?), no primer and have to possibly modify the wiring. The thing that I like about the Racor is the clear bowl that allows contaminants other that water to be seen. Thanks for reposting the pictures, I have 12k miles to think about it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    The dirty looking white knob located on top of the filter mount/housing is a priming pump. It works like a bicycle pump and has an o-ring under the knob to seal it off when screwed in. Then you have access to the check valve under the white plastic screw/cap located in front of the priming pump. You can replace or clean it if your fuel returns to the tank.
    The Parker filter housing is accessible and repairable. Yours is quicker to prime, every 40,000 miles :(
    When you buy the marine version, the mount/housing is painted beige. DC saved a penny by not painting it.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Thank you for going the extra kilometer on you explanation. The US CRD fuel filter heater is sandwiched between the filter and the filter head. This is the only image that I could find of it and the unit is fried. You can see where the other connector goes - fuel temperature sensor to operate heater relay?

    http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000330cp2.jpg

    Please take a look at the catalogue below specifically page 9.

    http://www.usdieselparts.com/pdf/pdf/Section01.pdf

    Is that your unit, model 230R, using R20S 2 micron cartridge and “Heater and See-thru Bowl”? Racor tells me that they think the R20S will fit on the US CRD filter head. If that is the case I can get by just buying the R20S cartridge and a non-heater see-thru bowl and install my existing water sensor. I am going to order the parts and find out.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    230R_P_12 is what I have. It's flawless.
    If you retrofit this on your truck, spend the extra dollar on the purchase of two stainless steel elbow fittings ("Swagelock" or equivalent) for the fuel hoses.
    You were lucky not to set fire with the fried connector :sick:
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Well, someone was lucky. I borrowed the pic from another site. I hope that does not become a common failure.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Siberia.... Let me know how you comeback with this adaptation and if you do; what about the bleeding port, you know that air is a comun issue on the CRD.
  • gbosticgbostic Posts: 2
    The oil appears to be coming from the oil seperator on the bottom end relief gadget on the top of the valve cover. The hoses from the oil seperator to the intake to turbo, the intake hose from the union where the hose from oil seperator t's in, the turbo and all hoses and the intercooler all the way to throttle body are oil soaked. For sure some of the oil if not all of it is coming from the valve cover relief unit. Is there any way to determine if any of this oil is coming from the turbo shaft seals? Should oil be bypassing the oil seperator on the valve cover? Any help appreciated.

    George
  • I believe it is becoming a common failure. My vehicle has been in the shop for the last two weeks. During a routine fuel/water separator filter change, the tech noted that a fuel leak through the sensor plug (into the housing). Currently there is a back order of 888 of these units with no firm release date. I for one cannot wait that long. I have been reading the forum with interest, particularly if there is an option available. I am not a mechanic, but I take care of my CRD and get the service done. Just don't know if it could be as simple as an O-ring. Any help would be appreciated, including what parts I would need to get. I would assume the pic of the fried connector occurred in a wet (fuel rich) environment. If air/oxygen was not available, the failure would have difficulty propagating into a fire. Thanks.
  • We have been using biodiesel. The fuel temp sensor in the intake that controls the glow plug timing had failed. All four of the glow plugs also. The vehicle starts and runs instantly for about 15 sec. and then shuts down. Is there an override shutdown signal coming from the fuel/water seperator that might be shutting down the engine. Engine runs, sounds and feels good for the 15 sec.

    Thanks,

    George
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