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Kia Sedona Electrical Problems

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  • I have a 2002 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related. Is there maybe and inline fuse that feeds the back lights? Thanks in advance!
  • Hi, how you doing? I am currently having the same issue as you posted regarding the low beam headlights not working and highs are fine. As you said, I have a hard time believeing they both went out at the same time. I've checked all the obvious (fuses, relays, etc.). Curious, did you ever get this problem resolved and could you please pass on some of the details.

    Thank You
  • My sedona has had this smell for almost a year! It seems to happen every few months. So then I kept thinking about what changes every few months - OIL! So I am guessing it may be a burning oil issue. When the 'time to change your oil' sticker says the miles are up is when we seem to start with the smell all over again. However, no dealer has wanted to tell me this is true. They just think I'm nuts. That's why I finally started searching.
  • I just got my Sedona back after a new altenator was installed (out of warranty!!!), but now the Airbag light will not turn off, Any Idea?

    Can't wait to return the vehicle after the lease!! :sick:

    Andreas
  • mrspomrspo Posts: 2
    Hello, Am new to this forum. Writing because I, too, seem to be a member of the club of folks who have persnickety low beams. Am experience issues with the low beams on our 2007 sedona. Out of the blue, we lost both low beams within one weak of each other. Both lamps were fine. I took the headlights off and messed with them, they'd work for a while, then fail again. Right now, passenger side is working, but I suspect it'll fail again soon. No rhyme or reason. Have you had any success in finding out what can be done about this. I'm planning on going to the dealer next week.
  • tmladtmlad Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sedona, and also recently had to replace the alternator. When I got it back, the air bag light is on, and my low beams don't work. Any ideas? The fuses are all good. I can't imagine both lights burning out at the same time.
  • mrspomrspo Posts: 2
    My issue ended up requiring purchase of two new lamps. Unfortunatley, my model year uses a new lamp type *H11b) which is next to impossible to get and ridiculously expensive. 43 bucks each. The dealer said the quartz halogens are good for about 30k miles now and that's about it. Also, people should make sure their headlights are turned off at the switch when they start their car - they said the starting surge shortens lamp life. Hope this helps...
  • I have a similar problem with my Sedona as well. It only occurs after the vehicle is driven for a while (probably 30 minutes or more...) and since I have 2 children, I am going bug nuts attempting to locate the source. I'll take it to the dealership as a last resort, due to the fact that I want to locate this problem myself before spending out the exorbitant fees (one arm one leg and everything inbetween) are paid...any ideas? I've checked inside the passenger compartment (Found a partially eaten set of chicken nuggets...mummified..) but, no charred wires, no obvious swells or expansions on the wire connectors themselves...
    Thanks in advance...
    Cat
  • saturn1968saturn1968 Posts: 2
    i had a short circuit under the hood which caused the computer to switch to safe mode i guess you could say. the engine starts, but the van is stuck in park, nothing works in the dashboard, power windows dont work. the short is fixed, but is there any way to reset the computer?
  • Hello,

    i have 2003 sedona with exact same issue.
    any resolution?
    thanks
    mk glencrest
  • I have a 2003 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related.
    please advise- thanks
    mk glencrest
  • I just changed the front brakes on my 2007 Kia Sedona and now the "ESC OFF" light is on and won't go off. Any ideas why? Is this related to changing the brakes? How do I correct this?
  • xnrxnr Posts: 2
    Same problem with my 2002. No parking or licence plate lights. Everything else is fine. Did you get yours fixed??? :cry:
  • xnrxnr Posts: 2
    Put a fuse in the EXT slot (engine comp fuse box) and parking/tail lights work with switch but not with DRL.
    :confuse:
  • I don't know if the ypur problem is related to the brake job you had done. But here is some info from Kia on this problem.
    Technical
    Service
    Bulletin
    Model Sedona [VQ]

    Group Brake System(41)

    Number KT2007111401

    Subject
    SEDONA (VQ) ABS/ESC WARNING LAMP ON - POOR GROUNDS (Chassis 018)
    Date Wednesday, November 14, 2007

    Area N. America


    - Description
    Click here to open a PDF version of this TSB
    Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles with a production date earlier than March 8, 2006 may exhibit a customer concern of an ABS/ESC Warning Lamp (MIL) being illuminated. Various DTC’s such as C2402 or U0001 may also be stored in the control module – OR – the GDS Scan Tool may not be able to communicate with the ABS/ESC system at all. Do NOT replace an ABS/ESC unit without at least first applying the procedure described in this TSB. These symptoms may result from poor grounds at G19 and/or G20, caused by paint remains between the bolt and mating weld nut attaching the ground terminal to the body. This TSB provides a procedure to properly correct this condition. Remember too, that other poor connections may exist, and should also be checked prior to any part replacement.

    Ground Point G19 – G20
    Located Behind ABS/ESC Unit On LH (Driver’s) Side Outboard Panel






    - Effective Vehicle Information
    2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) produced before March 8, 2006

    REQUIRED SST: Global Diagnostic System (GDS) with latest software version installed


    - Parts Information
    WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION: Claim Type
    Causal P/N
    Qty.
    N Code
    C Code
    Repair Description
    Labor Op Code
    Time
    Related Parts
    Qty.

    W
    58920 4D300
    0
    N69
    C15
    Removal of paint from ground bolt
    95660F00
    0.3
    NA
    0


    N69: Warning Light On
    C15: Poor Contact


    - Service Procedure
    Repair Procedure

    1. Remove and set aside the engine cover. (4 bolts)







    2. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor’s (MAF) electrical connector.


    NOTE: Slide the gray colored lock tab slightly in the direction indicated by the arrows in the photograph, which will expose the release tab for the connector. If this is not done first, the MAF connector will be damaged. Gray lock tab is shown here in the released (outward) position.


    3. Loosen the hose clamps at the MAF and throttle assembly. Remove and lay aside the air intake hose as shown, so it’s out of the way.





    4. Release the two spring clips that attach the air filter assembly cover. Remove the cover (with MAF attached) and the air filter insert. This will allow better access to G19 and G20.


    5. Locate the ground point for G19 and G20. It is located behind and close to the ABS/ESC unit, on the LH (driver’s) side outward panel.


    6. Using a ¼” drive ratchet, 14” extension and 10mm flex / swivel socket, reach behind the ABS/ESC unit to remove the G19 – G20 ground bolt.

    You may need to insert your other hand over-top of the ABS/ESC unit (between the brake fluid reservoir and PCM) to guide the socket onto the bolt head.





    The bolt used for G19 – G20 is a self-tapping bolt, which collects debris when first inserted. The next steps will provide a procedure to clean and further remove any remaining debris from this bolt and its threaded hole.


    7. First, move the ground lug away from the threaded hole so no debris will collect on or between the ground surfaces during the thread cleaning process.



    • Clean the removed bolt threads with a stiff bristle brush. (Do NOT use a wire wheel, as this can damage the bolt’s self-tapping capability!)
    • Reinstall the bolt fully without attaching the ground lug.
    • Run the bolt in-and-out completely 3 times (without fully removing) to clean the body’s threaded area.
    • Once again, completely remove the bolt and clean the threads with a stiff bristle brush.
    • Use compressed air to blow any remaining debris from the threaded hole, body surface and the self-tapping threads on the bolt.

    8. Reinstall the ground lug on the bolt and fully tighten the bolt to the body.
    NOTE: Be certain that the hook on the ground lug is inserted into its mating hole when reinstalling bolt. Otherwise, the ground lug may become deformed and not provide a proper ground.

    9. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Clear any DTC’s that may have been generated. Cycle the ignition key OFF, and then back ON. Make sure the ABS/ESC light (MIL) turns ON for the lamp check, and then turns OFF after several seconds. If the MIL comes back on, check for any stored DTCs, and repair as necessary referencing the service information.
  • My 2007 Sedona EX has the same issue plus it decides if the they will shut at all or I manually have to do it. Dealer tried to fix. Also DVD, wipers, and horn all had to be fixed. Too bad because it was a comfortable drive from Ohio to NC but the more bells and whistles the more likely for trouble. Our Odyssey went 4 years with zero troubles. Get what you pay for I guess.
  • Stalled when accelerate, is cause by stuck choke valve. After 4-years and 70000 miles this happen to my Sedona. I remove the air intake system, make sure you disconnect the battery to avoid the sensor activating "check engine" warning lite, then spray the intake with carburetor cleaner at the same time accelerate fully. Do this about 3-times and with W-D lubricator spray linkages and cables attach to the carburator.
  • Twice this happened on 6 hours of driving. After 4-1/2 years and 70000 miles a 10amp illumination fuse burnt out. While I'm commuting to and from my doctor's appointments, short errands and an hour away drive the fuse is okay. I brought it to the dealer for diagnostic, charged with $180, the technician inform for a fuse box replacement. He also noted that with the auto-start system the starting amperage could short the fuse.
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