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Kia Sedona Electrical Problems

245

Comments

  • saturn1968saturn1968 Posts: 2
    i had a short circuit under the hood which caused the computer to switch to safe mode i guess you could say. the engine starts, but the van is stuck in park, nothing works in the dashboard, power windows dont work. the short is fixed, but is there any way to reset the computer?
  • Hello,

    i have 2003 sedona with exact same issue.
    any resolution?
    thanks
    mk glencrest
  • I have a 2003 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related.
    please advise- thanks
    mk glencrest
  • I just changed the front brakes on my 2007 Kia Sedona and now the "ESC OFF" light is on and won't go off. Any ideas why? Is this related to changing the brakes? How do I correct this?
  • xnrxnr Posts: 2
    Same problem with my 2002. No parking or licence plate lights. Everything else is fine. Did you get yours fixed??? :cry:
  • xnrxnr Posts: 2
    Put a fuse in the EXT slot (engine comp fuse box) and parking/tail lights work with switch but not with DRL.
    :confuse:
  • I don't know if the ypur problem is related to the brake job you had done. But here is some info from Kia on this problem.
    Technical
    Service
    Bulletin
    Model Sedona [VQ]

    Group Brake System(41)

    Number KT2007111401

    Subject
    SEDONA (VQ) ABS/ESC WARNING LAMP ON - POOR GROUNDS (Chassis 018)
    Date Wednesday, November 14, 2007

    Area N. America


    - Description
    Click here to open a PDF version of this TSB
    Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles with a production date earlier than March 8, 2006 may exhibit a customer concern of an ABS/ESC Warning Lamp (MIL) being illuminated. Various DTC’s such as C2402 or U0001 may also be stored in the control module – OR – the GDS Scan Tool may not be able to communicate with the ABS/ESC system at all. Do NOT replace an ABS/ESC unit without at least first applying the procedure described in this TSB. These symptoms may result from poor grounds at G19 and/or G20, caused by paint remains between the bolt and mating weld nut attaching the ground terminal to the body. This TSB provides a procedure to properly correct this condition. Remember too, that other poor connections may exist, and should also be checked prior to any part replacement.

    Ground Point G19 – G20
    Located Behind ABS/ESC Unit On LH (Driver’s) Side Outboard Panel






    - Effective Vehicle Information
    2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) produced before March 8, 2006

    REQUIRED SST: Global Diagnostic System (GDS) with latest software version installed


    - Parts Information
    WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION: Claim Type
    Causal P/N
    Qty.
    N Code
    C Code
    Repair Description
    Labor Op Code
    Time
    Related Parts
    Qty.

    W
    58920 4D300
    0
    N69
    C15
    Removal of paint from ground bolt
    95660F00
    0.3
    NA
    0


    N69: Warning Light On
    C15: Poor Contact


    - Service Procedure
    Repair Procedure

    1. Remove and set aside the engine cover. (4 bolts)







    2. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor’s (MAF) electrical connector.


    NOTE: Slide the gray colored lock tab slightly in the direction indicated by the arrows in the photograph, which will expose the release tab for the connector. If this is not done first, the MAF connector will be damaged. Gray lock tab is shown here in the released (outward) position.


    3. Loosen the hose clamps at the MAF and throttle assembly. Remove and lay aside the air intake hose as shown, so it’s out of the way.





    4. Release the two spring clips that attach the air filter assembly cover. Remove the cover (with MAF attached) and the air filter insert. This will allow better access to G19 and G20.


    5. Locate the ground point for G19 and G20. It is located behind and close to the ABS/ESC unit, on the LH (driver’s) side outward panel.


    6. Using a ¼” drive ratchet, 14” extension and 10mm flex / swivel socket, reach behind the ABS/ESC unit to remove the G19 – G20 ground bolt.

    You may need to insert your other hand over-top of the ABS/ESC unit (between the brake fluid reservoir and PCM) to guide the socket onto the bolt head.





    The bolt used for G19 – G20 is a self-tapping bolt, which collects debris when first inserted. The next steps will provide a procedure to clean and further remove any remaining debris from this bolt and its threaded hole.


    7. First, move the ground lug away from the threaded hole so no debris will collect on or between the ground surfaces during the thread cleaning process.



    • Clean the removed bolt threads with a stiff bristle brush. (Do NOT use a wire wheel, as this can damage the bolt’s self-tapping capability!)
    • Reinstall the bolt fully without attaching the ground lug.
    • Run the bolt in-and-out completely 3 times (without fully removing) to clean the body’s threaded area.
    • Once again, completely remove the bolt and clean the threads with a stiff bristle brush.
    • Use compressed air to blow any remaining debris from the threaded hole, body surface and the self-tapping threads on the bolt.

    8. Reinstall the ground lug on the bolt and fully tighten the bolt to the body.
    NOTE: Be certain that the hook on the ground lug is inserted into its mating hole when reinstalling bolt. Otherwise, the ground lug may become deformed and not provide a proper ground.

    9. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Clear any DTC’s that may have been generated. Cycle the ignition key OFF, and then back ON. Make sure the ABS/ESC light (MIL) turns ON for the lamp check, and then turns OFF after several seconds. If the MIL comes back on, check for any stored DTCs, and repair as necessary referencing the service information.
  • My 2007 Sedona EX has the same issue plus it decides if the they will shut at all or I manually have to do it. Dealer tried to fix. Also DVD, wipers, and horn all had to be fixed. Too bad because it was a comfortable drive from Ohio to NC but the more bells and whistles the more likely for trouble. Our Odyssey went 4 years with zero troubles. Get what you pay for I guess.
  • Stalled when accelerate, is cause by stuck choke valve. After 4-years and 70000 miles this happen to my Sedona. I remove the air intake system, make sure you disconnect the battery to avoid the sensor activating "check engine" warning lite, then spray the intake with carburetor cleaner at the same time accelerate fully. Do this about 3-times and with W-D lubricator spray linkages and cables attach to the carburator.
  • Twice this happened on 6 hours of driving. After 4-1/2 years and 70000 miles a 10amp illumination fuse burnt out. While I'm commuting to and from my doctor's appointments, short errands and an hour away drive the fuse is okay. I brought it to the dealer for diagnostic, charged with $180, the technician inform for a fuse box replacement. He also noted that with the auto-start system the starting amperage could short the fuse.
  • did you resolve this problem? Now it is happening with my 2003 kia sedona.
  • GACopGACop Posts: 1
    Have a 2005 Kia Sedona with 40,000 miles. Went to get emmissions done, and wouldn't you know, the check engine light came on.........so it didn't pass. Had it checked, told the "fuel tank pressure sensor" and the "throttle cable pressure sensor" were both bad. Was also told these were "dealer only" items. What are they? and are they expensive?
  • atpnkatpnk Posts: 4
    Unfortunately I have a 04 Kia Sedona. Can anyone give me a detailed description of what OBD codes P0431 and P1159 mean? I have the basic description I want to know some more before I take it to the leaches at the Kia dealer I have been dealing with. Thanks.
  • atpnkatpnk Posts: 4
    If they are dealer only items then they are probably expensive. With that model year you may be able to use Hyundai parts. I beleive they have the same engine.

    Good luck
  • whatknotwhatknot Posts: 3
    I purchased a new 2006 Sedona over 2 years ago. I have been having a chronic electrical problem. If the car sits idle for several days the electrical system goes out completely. If the road service man connects his battery booster to the battery terminals for a second the electical systems is restored. This has happened 4 times since owning the car. The dealer has replaced the IP module twice but I still have this problem. On my last experience I returned on a midnite flight and could not start my car that was parked in the airport garage for 5 days. This time the dealer could not find the problem so now I have to carry a battery booster in the car. Does anyone have the same probem and if so what is the remedy.? It's not the battery at fault it's something between the battery and the electical panel.
  • Whatknot,

    Has the dealer checked for a draw? Radio's, alternators, power seats are all known problems that can cause parasitic draws. These can be very troublesome and sound a little as to what your describing. The 06 sedona is a whole different platform than previous years. You may also want to try another dealer, if not call consumer affairs, that goes a long way in getting it fixed.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    I don't think you have a draw on your system because the battery would be dead if this were the case.
    Try asking the dealer to look at this:

    TSB No. KT2007092001

    Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles produced before April 18, 2007 may exhibit a customer concern in which the engine will not crank (starter will not engage) when attempting to start the engine. In some cases, this condition may be caused by higher than normal resistance across the Burglar Alarm Relay located inside the In Panel Module (IPM). This relay is not a serviceable item, and if defective requires the replacement of the IPM. Other concerns such as poor pin connections and other faulty components in the starter’s circuit may also cause higher than normal circuit resistance, and should be considered before condemning and replacing the IPM. The following test procedure has been developed to assist you in determining whether the problem is the Burglar Alarm Relay in the IPM, or is related to some other area of the starter’s circuit. It’s recommended that this TSB be read in its entirety before attempting to perform this test procedure for the first time.
  • whatknotwhatknot Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response. It doesn't seem like the battery is drawn down because there is no electrical service at all. I tried boosting the battery through the cigarette lighter but that circuit is broken by this shut down. It's more like a circuit breaker trips when the car sits idle for a few days. I will call consumer affairs as you suggest.
  • whatknotwhatknot Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response. I'll check with the dealer. When this problem happens the electrical system is completely dead. Nothing works. It's like a circuit breaker trips when the car sits idle for a few days.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    With a draw your battery would be totally dead and take some recharging time before it would start. Since 06 is the first year redesign some vans are going to have wacky problems such as this. I would explain to the dealer everthing and ask them to check the tsb's. I had two tsb's fixed on my 06 no problem. Check out the website link I posted in the topic area it will allow you to check out all the tsb's and other repair info for yourself. If the alarm kills power to the car and a fault is in the system, you unlock the door with the key, then hook up the booster and it or you turns off the alarm then the car starts fine. This theory sounds like winner. You could try as a test to lock the doors manually when you go away for few days and don't set the alarm.

    When you come to you van and it's dead the wireless key remote does not unlock the doors right? I think the alarm is designed to kill power to the ignition and other things so a fault sounds right. I would not be shocked if the tsb I just listed is the culprit. Let us know what happens.
  • irritatrixirritatrix Posts: 40
    Bought a 2008 with rebate for 17K + tax on May 3, 2009. Twice in two weeks the battery went dead and I had to call roadside assistance for a jump. Second time I drove to the dealer, where a new battery was installed.

    Happened again about a week later. Third roadside assistance call in three weeks. My Sedona has been in the shop now since May 28 (today is June 8) and they still can't find out what's causing the drain, though they have duplicated the problem.

    Getting annoyed. My van is 5 weeks old, has been in the shop twice, for a total of 14 days, and has fewer than 500 miles on it.

    I love driving the thing, but my faith in it has been completely ruined. In the first few weeks of ownership I'm halfway to either of the two requirements to file for a manufacturer repurchase of my vehicle under the CA lemon law. :sick:

    Too bad; these would be great vans if only they were reliable.
  • irritatrixirritatrix Posts: 40
    They sent my van home today, after 20 straight days in the shop trying to find the drain on the battery.

    They spoke with Kia technical advisers several times, but never found the problem, for certain. However, the battery has held a charge for three straight days (which it had done between dying before I took it in several weeks ago). They are hoping that by removing and reinstalling the computer modules for the electrical system, they inadvertently fixed the problem.

    If it happens again, they have no choice but to check all 1/4 mile of the wiring, which the Kia Consumer Affairs rep who called me several times during this ordeal said takes 10-12 days.

    At 10 more days I reach the Lemon Law requirement. I hope they have fixed it, but the service manager is uneasy since if they did, they don't know how. So, we'll see. In the meantime, he offered to send someone to jump start it for me if it dies again so I don't have to wait so long for Kia's roadside assistance, which is kind of far from here.

    My fingers are crossed that we're done with this issue! :)

    I have to say, the dealer and the Kia Consumer Affairs person who called me (out of the blue - I never contacted them, but they were concerned about how long I was without my new van) have both been as helpful as possible under the circumstances.
  • phil78phil78 Posts: 4
    I test drove a 2009 Sedona EX recently, and because the dealer was busy, he let me drive it home to "try it out for a few hours." On the way home, everything worked fine, and I specifically checked the power sliding doors and remote door controls when I got home. When I went to take it back to the lot a few hours later, the power sliding doors would not work (they were "manual sliding doors" at this point) and the driver controls and passenger controls for the doors also did not work. The dealer told me this was simply because the car had not been "PDI'd" yet. This seems hard to believe, since everything worked at first.

    Have other people had similar problems? Am I wrong about PDI and are these problems just due to some fuses being a bit loose? I am wary because of the reports I have read of the Sedona having a poor reliability record and wonder if the problems I noticed are harbingers of what's to come.
  • pl411pl411 Posts: 6
    On my 2006, there is a button to enable and disable the electric doors. It is located on the overhead console and is easy to hit. It is possible you accidentally hit that button and there is nothing actually wrong with the van.

    I do not know what "PDI" means.
  • phil78phil78 Posts: 4
    PDI stands for "pre-delivery inspection." According to the dealer, some cars on the lot have not yet undergone this inspection, so they may need to have certain fuses installed or some systemes activated. However, since everything worked at first, I can't believe the dealer's explanation. I wish the dealer had brought up your suggestion, so I could have checked this at the time. If we go back, I will try to check for this possibility.

    Thanks for your input!
  • david5000david5000 Posts: 1
    I have driven my 2006 for 80,000 miles. My problem started at about 70,000 miles. After some start and stop driving, ie shopping or errands, the van will not start. When the key is inserted the radio works, the door chime is on, and the overhead lights work but when I turn the key... nothing. No click, no noise, nothing. Once the van sits overnight it will then start and I can drive it around, there is no lose of power and everything seems to be working fine. I pulled the starter off and cleaned all the carbon off, I thought this would help but the not starting happened again. :cry:. Before I take it to the dealer, HELP!
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    Few days ago it started to do a weird thing:

    I put the key in, the instrument panel lights and seat bell chime go on as they should, I turn the key and all goes off, wIthout even making an attempt to turn on the starter. Even the odometer goes blank. So far it has happened 3-times in 3 days. When I take the key out, and put it back in, it starts without problems (so it does not look like a dying battery) The clock is reset to 12:00. I have to take the key out, simply turning it into the OFF position and then trying again does not help.

    I would be grateful for any advice...

    The car is Kia 2007 Sedona EX, 20,000 miles on it.
  • Just a follow-up...my electrical issue seems to be fixed. My dealer does not know what they did to fix it, but apparently pulling all the computer modules for the electrical system and re-installing them helped. I just returned from a 2000 mile road trip and the van performed flawlessly. And it was so comfortable; I drove many hours a day and never felt fatigued.

    Now I need to find out what the weird sound coming from the valves at 3000 miles is. :(
  • mombeemombee Posts: 10
    2004 Kia Sedona.. air bag light was on, no cruise and no horn. Got the clockspring fixed and the air bag was fixed as well as horn and cruise. HOWEVER, no A/C. or heat. The little green lights on the dials won't work. It blows air but no cool or hot air. I called the repairman ON the way home and he said he didn't do anything to a/c. Something is fishy here. It worked fine at 7 am, clockspring was replaced and no a/c. Took it in again today and told the a/c is electrical problem.??? Anyone have any ideas on this? Just spent $1400. to repair a/c in August ( repair is guaranteed for 1 year) and of course, since it's "electrical" it's not covered. I am so tired of this run around. Any ideas would be appreciated!
  • i have a 2003 sedona and recently we had both low beams blow at the same time and know every time they are replaced they burn usually in minutes. we seem to have a surge problem so the serpentine belts were changed one was even on wrong but now it just seems like the lights are brighter but headlights still burn out. any thoughts
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