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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • hcoombshcoombs Posts: 2
    TBunch: I have had the same problem with my 2004 Colorado. It occurred 3 times in the 5 years I have owned it. In the manual, under "passlock", it states that you can wait 10 minutes and try to start it again and this works for me. However, I would like to find an answer to the problem. Have you spoken to or written to anyone at Chevrolet to get an answer? I did take it to my dealership 6 mos ago and they put it on the analyzer and then told me I should replace the ignition switch module to the tune of $400+. I chose not to do that. The manual also cautions you not to leave the starter engaged once it starts. I have noticed at the times this happened that the starter seemed to stay engaged even though I released the switch key. This may have something to do with the passlock disabling the fuel system, which is what it does. HCoombs
  • tbunchtbunch Posts: 3
    what exactly is the passlock? i dont have power locks or any type of alarm?, and yes sometimes it seems as if it still wants to start even after i turn the key back
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    I was waiting for the weather to get better as this truck is my only transportation I thought I would ride my harley while I get my truck fixed. I told my wife to get it set up to take the truck in with in the next 2 weeks. On 4-7-09 it was a warm afternoon and I stop and got gas got back in the truck and went to roll down the window and it worked I sat at the stop light rolling drivers side window up and down 10 times like a kid. When I got home and and used the key fob to lock and un lock everything is working????? Has not worked since Nov. Now all the sudden starts working I am not going to mess woith taking it back into the dealer I am just going to wait until I change battery or what ever. Dealers act like they never heard of this and in 2 minutes I can google and find many who have had the same symptoms. Just glad it started working.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    sorry little out of context but this is a follow up to my Nov 25-08 posts
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    I posted this same problem, last year. When the weather was warm, everything worked. When the weather was cold, the power door locks and driver's power window would NOT work. Yours may continue to work all Summer, but when Winter returns, the problem will reappear. The only permanent solution is to replace the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly. If not in warranty, it's very expensive. This is certainly a frequent problem by many Colorado and Canyon owners, but GM won't acknowledge.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    Yes I re call reading that. I am keeping print outs of all I find on this problem. Is there any programing involved with the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly? its not clear to me I think I read something about that?
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    NO programing required. It's a very easy swap-out, so if you have to pay for replacement, I suggest installing yourself and saving the labor cost.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    Thank you for the information.
  • hcoombshcoombs Posts: 2
    tbunch: in my 2004 Colorado Owners Manual, Pg 2-17, it implies that all of the Colorado's are equipped with the passlock theft deterent system. the system enables fuel to the engine if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key.
    If a wrong key or the cylinder lock is tampered with, the fuel system is disabled. It also states 'remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts'.

    (i still have a feeling that possibly the starter solenoid (sp?) or something in the start circuit is causing the starter to stay engaged too long. I believe that this will enact the passlock.) HCoombs
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Posts: 88
    I think I started this thread way back when or at least this is where I posted the window/lock/fob/starting/battery problem a year and a half ago.

    I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada.

    Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!"


    That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since.

    Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again.
  • gthfishgthfish Posts: 8
    Thanks brokenail for the information, really appreciate it..gary
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20

    I rented a Trailblazer for a week while out of State, same kit setup with phone, radio and batteries charging from my inverter, this vehicle is pretty much the same as the Colorado but has a voltmeter in it showing 14V at idle in the rental place.

    So I'm watching this thing and by day three, the engine is starting to idle up and down and the voltmeter is showing about 12V at idle, but no engine light yet... which means all my kit is drawing more wattage than the alternator is making at idle and the battery is now sweating the load... so I quit plugging in my laptop during idle and, 24 hours later, idle is normal.

    I get home and back in my Colorado, which still has the engine light on and idles between 500 and 700 every two seconds all day. I plug everything but my laptop in and a couple of days later, the idle levels out at 700 and the light goes out! That was several days ago.

    The engine light came back on briefly the other night when I was idling with my headlights on for two hours, but then went out on the way home.

    My belt is squeeling when it gets wet. I think this means I need a new belt? Or it means the alternator is so fried it's creating too much friction...

    Either way, if I want to power my laptop in my truck for more than ten minutes, I have to get a much bigger alternator installed. One that will output 100A+ at idle.

    On another note, I pulled the resistor pack for the blower in the passenger footwell and, wouldn't you know it, the connector on the red wire is all burned and melted. I think there's a Technical Oops Sheet on that so I might find a Chevy dealer who will fix it. JFYI, with the resistor pack disconnected, the blower still works on 4 and the heater, inside/outside button and A/C all work fine.

    My 2005 Colorado just turned 80K and now runs like a dream again. :shades:
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    My 2004 Canyon (3.5L 5MT 2WD) has had a continuing series of small electrical problems since new. These have included no start, blower motor, blower resistor, blower loom (2X), & intermittent rough idle. The truck now has 111,000 miles and finally runs right. The fix was simple, just put a real battery in it. My OEM style group 86-7YR battery died at the bottom of a wilderness lake boat ramp. I had to remove the upper & lower portions of the battery box to fit an old deep cycle battery from my boat to get back out of the mountains.
    I chose to eliminate the battery box & vent hose and select a larger & stronger battery more suited for truck use. I installed a Costco/Kirkland #4 battery which is rated @ 1,000CA & 850CCA. This battery also has a 36Mo/100Mo warrantee & only costs $80.00. The battery is snug but fits into the available space, cables, and the stock battery retainer system.
    The bottom line is that EVERYTHING works better especially the engine which has never run this sweet. I suspect the combination of a minimal battery and a low capacity alternator result in excessive voltage drop and thus high amperage draws everywhere. My next step will be an alternator upgrade. This is a cheap way to stop buying electric parts. I also expect to see an improvement mileage & may get to 30mpg yet!
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    On the previous post (#216) I neglected to provide the actual battery identification. It is a 850CCA, GROUP65, Costco item #12866, $80.00, & also called a fitment #4. The width is a really tight fit in the stock retainers & I'm not sure that other brands of group 65 batteries will fit the same. Also late models of Canyon & Colorado both 4 & 5 Cyl have upgraded from 100A to 125A alternators which will probably be an easy & worthwhile conversion on the older trucks.
  • merch3merch3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy colorado extended cab and lately my drivers side window has been acting funny, sometimes working just fine and sometimes it just stops for a bout 15 seconds, then will start working just fine again. the locks work, and the mirrors work.

    and then yesterday i got in my truck, put both windows down, and drove about 5 miles. when i parked and tried to put the passenger side window up it didn't budge and so i waited hoping it was just the same problem as the drivers side window but nope... it wouldn't move. so i had someone pull up on it while i pressed the button and it went up just fine, then it worked fine for about 5 minutes then got stuck again. i don't know what is going on. but this morning it worked fine again for a couple seconds then just froze up again. i can hear it click on the passenger side door like it receiving the power its just not moving. ive been reading a lot of posts with people having electrical problems, i don't know if i should hope its electrical or the motors are going out. i don't know which is cheaper. any response is welcome.
  • HopeGMCHopeGMC Posts: 7
    I had the same problem. Look at my entry #154. Hope that thelps.
  • HopeGMCHopeGMC Posts: 7
    Check the connection for the blower motor. Passanger side. Two screws. The problem is that the connectors heat up and loose their connections. If you can take the connector apart - one wire at a time and clean them up and put more tention on the prong, that should take care of it. I would try that before replacing the resistor board
  • Just found this after having issues with my 04 Colorado for a number of years.

    First incident was this: after shopping came out to my trucks wipers going and when I unlocked the door, the blower was on inside. This while the keys were in my pocket. Dealer replaced the BCM. Under warranty.

    Fine for 30,000 miles.

    Next problem: Go out to the truck, nothing works. Try to start, only thing that came on was the service engine icon on the instrument cluster. Nothing else. Dealer replaced the BCM again. $700 bucks gone.

    3 weeks later,
    Driving the truck, filled up gas. Blower on while the keys in my pocket. While driving the truck to the dealer, the wipers turn on then stop mid way, the horn honks twice, the instrument cluster goes completely black then displays the odometer reading as 999999. Blower does not work, locks work, but when you shift out of park or drive it used to lock and unlock the doors, it does not do that anymore. Replaced the BCM again. They are going to replace the instrument cluster once they get it in. So far the dealers techs are dumbfounded on how this is going.

    Any other ideas?

    I am going to ask them to look at the fuse block. Just seems to be a lot of electrical issues with this thing.
  • paul139paul139 Posts: 2
    OK, so I bought a loaded 2004 4x4 crew cab colorado z-71 for my daughter, past owner told me had just put in a new battery, after one month all of the problems listed in this post with the exception of the blower began happening to her truck. So, I began to disconnect and reconnect every harness connector to try and trouble shoot this issue. FINALLY, last night as the no start no power no dash passlock battery good condition occurred once again my neighbor watched the dash while I wiggled wires yet again. and fixed it!!!!!!!!. From the battery trace the small ground wire to the inner fender, remove the bolt, remove the small retainer that holds the eye on the bolt. remove the eye connector, place a "star" washer on the bolt, reinstall the eye, place another star washer on the bolt and reinstall. Problem is resolved. no issues, door locks, lights, dash, pass lock all ok now :)
  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    I have a 2004 Ext. cab 4 wheel drive I5 Chevy truck and the problem I have is my check engine light has come on and will not go off even when you take the key out of the ign. The Chevrolet dealer checked for a code but there is none. HELP!!!
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