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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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  • I removed and tapped the PWR/WNDW relay from the box in front of the battery, which I am assuming is the relay you are talking about. If not, let me know. Sprayed and replaced and no change. Thanks for the input. I'll try anything that sounds like it has a chance. Next, I am going to try disconnecting the positive cable for a couple hours as tyrod is suggesting below.
    Thanks Again!
  • Tyrod-
    Thanks for the input, but this didn't work for me either. I left it disconnected overnight and reconnected it in the morning. No change. No driver side window or lock. The passenger side window will still operate from the driver side, but nothing else. Other thoughts?
  • Please refer to my previous postings #197 and #208. This is a very common problem with Chevrolet Colorados. Hopefully, these will help.
  • deweesdewees Posts: 2
    The clicking when you turn may be that the fluid in the pumpkin needs replaced with a synthetic. I had that happen and they replaced the fluid with the synthetic and it stopped immediately.
    Battery needs replaced. I just went through the same exact thing. New battery, New day to drive!!
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    If the passenger side works from the driver side then the only thing it can be is a broken window button or disconnected/broken wire to the button in the passenger door.

    You have power to the door and the winder because it works from the driver side. Using the passenger button doesn't work, therefore... the passenger side is not completing the circuit. Rip it open and check the wires. Replace the button even if you can make a test circuit, it might not be enough to move the winder. Careful cos the winder pulls some juice :)

    Colorado's seem to have been undersized in the loom causing melted wires and shorts all over, dead blowers, winders, blownout stereo lights, ugly wife... you name it. ;)
  • Oddly, my passenger side window works from both sides. Neither of the door lock buttons work. The drivers side window does not work. Even more odd, I found another issue today. My keyless entry remote will not lock the doors, but it thinks they are locked. A passenger got in the passenger side through an unlocked "locked" door. The truck thought they were locked, but they weren't So, the alarm goes off. Luckily I was able to "lock" it again with the keyless entry and "unlock" it to shut the alarm off. What's next? Oh... The "Battery" warning started coming on again today. Nice..... :sick:
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Always buy American... oh you did. Hmmm.

    The differential for this diagnosis is:
    1. The windows are not on the same circuit as the locks.
    2. The driver's side window circuit is not completing. First, place an axe in the footwell near the pedals in full view of the driver's door. Now check the window fuses, you may have one for each side. Carefully remove the driver's door inside panel and wiggle the wires from the driver's side window button in both directions while operating the button. Look for melting, scorching, breaks, water damage, etc. The axe will act as a form of incentive for the vehicle to be helpful.
    3. Your keyless entry doesn't sense the position of the locks (it would be German if it did that) but instead it simply knows that you pressed the "lock" button on the remote, so it armed the entry-sensor. Check the fuse for the power-locks and the signal wire from the remote-sensor to the lock-popper.
    4. Why is it cheaper than Honda or Toyota? "Because it's a Chevy" :lemon:
    5. To be fair, I've crashed my '05 Colorado twice and all it needed was realignment and a new front bumper I changed out myself.
  • Yepper: 2004 Colorado ex -cab , Drivers door window stuck in down position and drivers side power door locks do not work. Key less entry does not work. Passenger side window works from both sides. I guess I am the last one this is happening too. 2010 Jan , 13th . Unreal Local G.M dealership never heard of this problem. Just called them . No help at all. $81.00 an hour to check it out. Took door panel apart , wires look good. Took control panel apart ; looks o.k as well. No burnt wires. Unhooked battery now and waiting a few hours before I hook them back up. I don't think it will cure it but I must try. I do the the terminals touching to discharge BCM . Fan motor sometimes doesn't work in alll positions all of the time . I must wiggle the knob. Are there any real fixes to this B.S yet? :(
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Dewees", it's my understanding that the Canyon/Colorados come from from the factory with synthetic oil already in them. I usually change the diff oil in my vehicles about a year after I get them, and when I checked what the owner's manual said, it called out synthetic lube. Therefore, I assume that's what's already in there....
  • Well, I had the same issue a couple years ago. I'm not sure if you went through all the old posts but here's an update.

    It's a common problem with these Colorados and Canyons. The FOB and driver's window stops working and the battery goes dead. The dealer replaced my BCM (Body Control Module) for a few hundred that did nothing. They also "mentioned" there was a service bulletin on the fuse block which had scorch marks. They found out the battery was shot too. During their testing they stressed the blower resistor which fried the next day. All told, about $800 in repairs.

    Since then (summer 2007) everything has worked fine, no more issues. The bottom line, this is what it looks like. There is some problem with the fuse block. I don't know if it is poorly designed, but my guess is it fries for some reason. Possibly too much of a load on the powerpoints, poor grounding ( read that earlier in these threads) or I've also read the alternator is too animic. I get the impression that the electrical system of the truck is not up to snuff and for whatever reason, the fuse block fries and takes the other stuff (BCM, battery etc) with it.

    Replace the fuse block (which was covered by Chevy) and everything, at least on my truck has been ok. My rub is that it seems logical that the fuse block fried the other stuff, but Chevy wouldn't cover the other expenses. I will never buy another Chevy product even if, through Obama I'm now a "part owner" after their bankruptcy. Personally I would have let them burn. They obviously make crappy products and don't stand behind them. The dealer was pretty good about it, but it's interesting that Chevy still takes the line of "never seen this before" given all the activity in this thread.

    Other issues to watch out for are the tail light sockets are poorly designed and over time need to have the prongs bend back to make contact. I have a fog light I have to rap on in order to get it to work. The cable for it is so short it's virtually impossible to turn it to get it out of the socket. I replaced it, but it has the same problem. The solution is I have to have the lights on, get out of the truck and rap on the light and it will work... for a while.

    Also don't forget about the head needing to be replaced. If you don't know about this one, definitely do some searching on it. There is a problem in the 2004-06's where the valve seats weren't hardened enough and the cylinders go flat on compression. The entire head needs to be replaced. This one Chevy does cover to 100K miles, but expect about three weeks of down time. They usually have to pull the motor because the timing chain slips and they need to reset it. There is a tool to hold it, but it usually doesn't work. If it's not covered under the warrantee, it's about a $3500 fix.

    I'll say after that one summer of hell with the truck, everything has been working pretty well. I have 120K miles on it, but I live in fear of when I'll have the "other stuff", the instrument panel, the lighting etc starts to fail on it.
  • I have a 2005 GMC Canyon, I'm hoping someone might have had this problem and learned how to fix it. the lock on my drivers side door will not lock, I checked all the fuses, all were good. The other 3 doors lock manuelly and with the fob. I've tried locking the door by pushing the lock but that didn't work!
  • When you say, "Pushing the lock", do you mean the power door lock button, or the manual locking button? If it won't lock in the "power" mode, I'd suspect a shorted door lock switch. If it won't lock "manually", as well as in the "power" mode, I'd assume the rod from the door handle to the lock mechanism has become unattached.
  • All companies eventually go bankrupt. Including Toyota.
  • If you back way up and read all of these post, you will see that is Just one of the problems with the door locks and windows. I too can NOT lock my door or open my window with the door panel electrics. So no drivers window at all. I can use the passengers side and operate it from drivers side too. Plus the Heater fan is going weird too. If you read back a bunch you'll see { we all have this problem} there is no real fix yet. Just guesses. My Mechanic told me it was the Drivers side, power door lock /window power panel. Over $100.00 It's not for sure because some of the floks have done that and no fix yet. Chevy should stick this truck up there [non-permissible content removed]. No More for me. I'll fix some how and unload it.
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Good to see, those are the EPA fuel ratings for this vehicle.

    My 05 Crew LS just went through the 100k and she's pulling strong, half the dash lights are out and I put her into a concrete retaining wall covered in snow at 40mph, just needed a new bumper. Hard to break and cheap to run :shades:

    I had some rough engine issues that affected every system in the vehicle. I bought a $3 spray can of Gumout Throttle Body Cleaner and sprayed the plate. Fixed it immediately and she's running nice.
  • Bought my 2004 Colorado new in Kentucky. Battery check light always came on in winter weather below 32 degrees but the battery lasted 5 years no other problems... love the truck. When the battery went low, the drivers side window quite working and the FOB as well. It does set the alarm but no locks will work. When you hit the lock or unlock the parking and rear lights blink indicating it got the signal.

    Always garaged now and should be less problems occur.

    Comes Jan 8, 2010, battery just 5 days shy of one year old and...... the drivers side windows doesn't work (all others do), FOB won't lock doors but does blink lights and set the alarm.
    - no battery check light, battery seems okay
    -checked all fuse and relays, appear okay.

    I just got on the internet and found this common problem others have had and I'm anxious to try the control module fix (seems like the most common thread solution) and look for the any bare wires or door / harness interferrences.

    A.S. I did have another electrical issue and that was with the cruise control working erratically. Found out the dealer didn't really have any ideas except the $95 per hour diagnosis path and admitted if it is intermittent they probably would find it. I mentioned that they had a recal for an emergency / brake light issue in 2007 and they left these parts under on the floor (below the steering column). They ignored that.

    So I crawled under and found they cut wire clamps off many wires to do their replacement work and left the cruise control wire next to a sharp edged bracket on the steering wheel.... yes it cut into the wire and was intermittently shorting out. Wrapped the wire, but foam between the wires and bracket and clamped them (the way a professional repair should be). All has been fine for over a year.

    Bottom line the wiring and control don't seem to take much vibration, and or voltage variation before they start causing issue. Why isn't GM aware of this???
  • I have a 2005 Colorado Quad Cab 4x4 Z71 with 65,000 miles on it. I noticed several days ago that the right turn signal was coming and going which made me figure that the bulb was on its way out. Well today after I started it up and took off the cluster displayed ABS Fault, the right turn signal blinked like it was out, the MPH gauge was bouncing all over the place, and the truck was acting like it didn't want to shift. Also, when braking I noticed that the turn signals light up for just a second. This problem came and went on my way home so I have scheduled an appointment with the dealer for tomorrow, but I thought that I would see what you all thought. Thanks for the help out.
  • I took mine to a trusted shop, finally after coming to terms that I couldn't fix it. They hooked up the diagnostic tool and everything was triggering in the switches, the power just wasn't making it to the motor. They pulled out all the fuses, did everything their online source said to do. Nothing. Basically, they trust another local dealer who hadn't heard of the problem and they said a reset of the PCM (maybe BCM, but they said PCM) may take care of it. If that didn't do it, the module attached to the drivers door lock was the next in line for replacement. I drove home, pondering the next move. The next day I went on a business trip and when I returned, I went to open the door and it was locked! What? My doors don't lock. I get in and start driving away. Sure enough, the window now works too. Not sure how long this will last, but its odd. I'm guessing the motions the shop went through triggered something to work again after the truck sat overnight.
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    I had the exact same problem with my 2004 Colorado. When the truck sat in the sun for awhile the windows and door locks started working. When the temperature cooled, they would stop again. Like you, everything was checked, without a solution. Finally, I replaced the driver's side master door lock/window switch assembly and all problems were permanently fixed. It's interesting how this is a common problem, but none of the Chevrolet dealers "have ever heard of it"....lol
  • canyon08canyon08 Posts: 14
    I recentley bought an 08 canyon: when I apply the brake pedal my left signal comes on.. if I'm turning left with signal on and touch brake it speeds up but when I get the wife to drive it around the yard all lights appear to work as normal, just weird on the dash??After reading all these posts on window, fuse block etc I'm getting a little nervous, any help? thanks
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