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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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  • Christina. No need to worry about my problem (as if you ever did.) I traded that P.O.S. Colorado off on a Jeep product back in December! Was at the dealer 3 days after the deal was done to go out to lunch with my salesman. As we were leaving I saw someone test driving my old truck . A week later this person had bought it and had already had it back to the dealer with complaints of ELECTRICAL ISSUES!!!!

    Guess this person will be another satisfied G.M. customer?!! You don't have to worry about me now,because my Jeep is doing fine and to be honest I don't think I'll be purchasing ANY G.M. products for a LOOOOONG time!

    Thanks for the memories! Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Michigan the worst dealer on the planet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Hey al6pndr,

    Maybe you could tell us how you really feel about GM?

    It's interesting. I was at a parts store yacking with the guys there and we talked about the Colorados. Seems another thing is that they are prone to spinning main bearings on the I5. Nice. Something to look forward to I guess.

    In fairness, they did say the new vehicles are "way better"... now.

    It's a shame they have permanently lost so many future customers because of their past business practices.
  • Tried to post how I really feel about G.M. but......The sensors kept rejecting my posts because of a little thing called cursing?? Sad thing is I had 2 used G.M. products before I got the Colorado,both were GREAT trucks.. Had an 87 ck1500 with 209,721 miles on it,it had 27,000 to start. Kept it almost 13 years.

    Next a 1996 s-10 with the 4.3 vortec had 28,000 when purchased, ended up with 144,000 . Sad thing was due to being in a hurry for hunting season let one of these "quickie lube" joints change the oil... While trying to not get creamed by someone running a red lght while making a left turn, (no I dont turn on red lights but the 2 others that ran it before the last guy left me no choice being stuck in the middle of the intersection, with cross traffic trying to go.) I gunned it to get thru the intersection and had unknowingly blown the rubber "O" ring off the oil filter that wasn't tight and emptied the crank case before I knew what happened.

    Wish I could have either one of those trucks back instead of what I ended up with.. Thanks for your comments Have a nice day!!
  • I have a 2004 Colorado Crewcab that had "that" problem with the power windows not working within 6 months of purchase (can't recall if door locks were affected). Chevy replaced driver door switch/circuit board assembly under warranty - great! Had to replace battery 18 months ago, but no big deal. On February 5, 2011 (58,000 miles), the truck would not start. Would crank, but not turn over. Disconnected negative cable from battery for 15 minutes, reconnected and truck started and ran fine. Upon leaving that location, noticed that door locks would not work from console or fob, and driver's side window as well. Got home and called my mechanic (very trustworthy) and he said he would check it out. In the meantime, I found this website and read all 300+ posts. When my mechanic told me that he had tried everything he could, including taking apart the switch/circuit board assembly and inspecting/cleaning - cost to replace $250+, I mentioned that I would try and find a replacement at a junk yard - well, that didn't work (and one business told me that I was the 2nd to call for that part in a week). I then tried some of the suggestions on this board - + battery cable disconnect, add star washer to ground, etc. Nothing worked. Found one other website/board with a suggestion to take off the cables from the battery and short them together for 3 hours to discharge capacitors. I am an Electrical Engineer, and while I understand the concept of capacitor discharge, I struggled to short the leads together for fear of potential other problems. Anyway, did just that for 30 minutes, unhooked the cables and left alone overnight. In the morning, hooked up the cables to the battery, waited a couple of minutes and started the truck with no problems. Let the truck run for a minute, pushed the "L" on the door lock switch and the door locks closed. Then tried the driver's window and it worked. Ran the truck for 10 minutes and shut it off. Opened the lock with the switch, then opened and closed the door and locked with the fob. So far, so good - I just wonder how many "computers" are a part of a modern vehicle. I think there are 2 just with the door circuit board.
  • my wife could NEVER understand why I would order/purchase my vehicles as "PLAIN JANE" as possible. The old saying holds true "The more you have on a vehicle (electrical doo-dads.) the more things you can have go wrong!"

    Randy Wise Chevrolet .Milan,Michigan .The Worst Dealer on The Planet!!!
  • Ok Im so confused, I have owned two 04 colorados the first one had for 2 years, only had the blower resistor problem, sold it only because of family got bigger needed a 6 seater. any way now I dont need such a big vehicle and purchased a second 04 colorado. well right off the blower resistor went fixed it, then the control for defrost stripped the gears. And I totally love my Colorado. Well now the whole power window, power lock thing is totally screwing up. I have took apart tapped on rly 3 as mentioned. didnt work, took battery cables off cleaned post. cleaned under ground going to frame, re attached, no go. checked all connections. seem good. I can purchase a new window switch but dont wont to if not the problem. I would really like to know if any one has had this problem and a new switch didnt fix it! so confused, I have been a diehard chevy fan, and still am I hope the start stepping up and recognising, these problems. :sick:
  • I've had the window/fob/door lock thing twice. Keep an eye on your battery. If it goes flat, then you have the problem that Chevy never heard of.

    One post a guy wrote that capasitors in the system needs to be discharged and shorting the battery leads (disconnected from the battery of course) fixed the problem. Never tried that one. Don't know if it will really work.

    I feel your pain. It's a good little truck if it didn't have all these weird, reoccuring electrical problems that Chevy never heard of.
  • Wow i cant :mad: believe all the posts on this issue . I had the same drivers side window , inoperative door lock problem a year ago . couldn't figure it out weeks later it just started working although i hear beeping like my keys are in the ignition when I get out of the truck. Months later the cd player stopped working but radio worked, farther down the road my heater fan works intermittently.
    Well today i left my flashers on drained the battery. Jump started the truck and now drivers side window doesn't work again and door locks or keyless entrydoesnt work.. Just for kicks I tried the cd player figuring whats the chance, Well i can now play cds again just cant use the window and locks!!!
    I cant believe GM wont do anything..........I stoped buying Chevy years ago and figured i would give it a try again and nothing has changed other than they use our money to fund lousy service and products.
  • And don't forget the govt. uses your /my tax dollars to bale them out and make it mpossible for them (G.M.) to give out BIG BONUS CHECKS to thier "higher ups!" Thats why they don't want any recalls they gotta pay back the Govt!!
  • I removed all of my bulbs (headlights, turnsignals, and brake lights) coated them in electrical grease and reinstalled them all. This did indeed fix the problem that I was having, but since then a bulb or two has gotten loose three other times. Maybe in the 2012 owners manual then can put a bit in there to "snug" up your lights with every oil change to keep the entire electrical system from going haywire... Thanks canyon08 and sorry for the late reply to the board, but I have a relatively new electrial problem which is why I logged back in.
  • boilermaker06boilermaker06 Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    My truck's latest electrical glitch comes about after it rains. I noticed this back in 2010 when I was having the electrical problems with the turnsignals/MPH gauge, but thought it was tied in with that; however, it is now happening every time it rains. Truck starts fine, goes into gear fine, but as soon as you're getting up to speed the MPH gauge goes to zero, it throws an ABS Fault code, and the transmission locks into 3rd gear and will not shift out of it. The problem is only rectified after driving for several miles, sometimes longer, at upwards of 3,000 RPM until I notice the MPH gauge begin to flutter. At this point I have to pull over, shut the truck off, and turn it back on. After the water is out of wherever it has gotten the truck acts like nothing has happened. As a lifelong Chevy man it is getting harder by the day for me to say I will never buy anything else, but as soon as I get this problem resolved the truck is going up for sale!
  • Glad that fixed that problem..electrical problems are the worst and seem to be a serious issue with this truck, too bad because I really like the damn thing! I'm popping a 449 code now...sounds like a vaccum leak but too cold and snowy to crawl under now, still runs fine. Recently, my fob works good for awhile then it seems like the truck isn't picking up the signal and it's only 5 months old..
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    snaproll1,
    Will you please email me with more information regarding your concerns? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    jmello,
    I apologize for your frustration. Have you taken your vehicle into a GM dealer?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Posts: 86
    "Will you please email me with more information regarding your concerns? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service"

    Don't worry about me. I'm never setting foot in another Chevy dealership for service or buying a vehicle. Don't worry about fixing *MY* vehicle, do something to get Chevy to fix ALL of them... then you may be doing something USEFUL towards future Chevy sales.

    Why don't you POST A SOLUTION to this REOCCURING PROBLEM that Chevy says doesn't exist. Seriously! Obviously there has to be a common reason for the issue. What is it? Bad programming in the BCM? Bad grounds?

    This problem has been going on for at least FIVE YEARS. By now SOMEBODY at Chevy must have SOME idea how to fix and SOLVE the electrical problems this truck has. I know they certainly had no idea five years ago the first time I had the problem. "It's the BCM", "Actually it was the battery, but we're charging you for the BCM anyway", "Oh we replaced a burned fuse block too".

    Seriously, if there is a solution, post something USEFUL rather than talking about the quality of the all knowlegable Chevy technicians and an opportunity to SPEND MORE MONEY at the Chevy dealership. POST A SOLUTION. :lemon:
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,496
    Relax! Christina is in customer service - she's not an engineer or a mechanic, nor can she diagnose problems from words on a screen. It may actually prove useful if you DO email her (you can get her email address by clicking on "gmcustsvc" in her post header) and give her as much information as you can about your truck's issues so she can get it to the right people.

    Take a few deep breaths, have a beverage, then compose a calm detailed email about what you've encountered.

    Rants don't get things fixed.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    edited January 2010
    boilermaker06,
    Can you please email me with your VIN, current mileage, and involved dealer?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • irish728irish728 Posts: 1
    I have had it.....always double talk and never a fix. You people have lost a long time chevy/gmc customer.Dead battery had to be jump started,now driver window and door locks dont work.Here we go after checking all circut protection(which should have protected the circut) nothing blown or tripped.Let me guess.."bring it in we will be happy to look at it for you"
    I think not because your techs are clueless on how to repair anything,I have seen some in action......So why not post logical repair procedure because GM is clueless.....I will figure it out myself as usual
  • When my driver door window and locks quit working I checked all the usual suspect things like fuses etc. In my frustration I grabbed the bundle of wires where they enter the door and gave them a shake. Then everything started working again. That was a couple months ago. I haven't taken anything apart to look closer yet. Same with my blower fan. If I go over a big bump then it cuts out for a couple secs then comes back on. It's funny we all have the same problems and there is no simple fix like where the short is or the wire harness needs changing or???
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    WIRING HARNESS!!!??? funny how that statement KEEPS comming up in these postings.......RANT,Rant,rant.....
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