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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055

    Were you planning on taking the vehicle into your local GM dealership to be diagnosed? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • Burned out..battereis,ecm, bcm,fuses,fuse pannel, alternator. The list goes on & on.. Chevy the gift that keeps on giving!! (to the dealerships.)
  • fmagellanfmagellan Posts: 10
    edited September 2011

    I just had the same problems. Lemme guess.....dead battery, now the driver side window won't go down but the other 3 will and locks won't work at all but the FOB seems to work but the doors don't unlock or lock?

    Here's how I remedied the situation. Replaced the battery. Remove the driver control panel (2 screws) and unplug the connectors, let them sit for a couple of minutes unplugged, and plug them back in. Might be a good idea to use some contact grease between the connections.

    Don't take it to the dealer, especially if it's not under warranty. They don't know what the problem is and all that will happen is you will end up spending more than what you can "fix" it for yourself. They will tell you you need a new driver control module/BCM that will cost at least $350.

    If I can figure it out (and I'm not a mechanic) so can you. Good luck and keep us posted.
  • As a Master Mechanic on light and heavy vehicles for over 35 years, replacing the battery doesn't do anything for fixing the problem. 12 volts setting and 14.2 volts running is just that. No matter what battery you remove or install, it is still 12.2 volts when vehicle is shut off. Some people report that the problem fixed itself by disconnecting or replacing the battery. I can assure you since this is such a random problem that they got lucky when they did that and it functioned again. Not because of the battery disconnect or replacement. Mine started working again without touching anything a few years ago. After 3 months of non-operation all of a sudden the locks and window functioned again. When it acted up again, I removed the module and silicone greased the connections. Problem solved so far, (not guaranteed).
    If it acts up again, I am going to attack the fuse box connections feeding the drivers module.

    Dennis Tomlinson "Certified ASE Master Light and Heavy vehicles". (Volkswagen to heavy semi trucks).

    Area of most expertise is computer and electrical issues.
  • I completely agree with Den052. While the battery going south may have initiated the problem, replacing it won't fix it. The low voltage of the old battery pushed a lot more current through the connectors then they were designed for - this includes the fuse connectors in the fuse block, causing them to overheat and lose their gripping. This results in an intermittant connection that can fluctuate when outside temperatures rise and fall. I describe how I fixed this problem on mine in posts 426 and 438 in this forum - not elegant, but I haven't touched it since then and it still works fine. Good luck!
  • You guys do know that there was a SB on the fuse block, right? When I had my initial problem with the window/fob/battery, they initially nailed me for a new $450 BCM, assuring me that was the problem. Two days later, same problem. When I said, "Put the old BCM back in", they were like, "Oh that was bad anyway". Then they gave me some scam excuse that the battery was bad, holding "a high surface charge" (the battery was 3 and a half years old), but dropped quickly and a new $130 battery would solve the problem. The next day after their charging/discharging testing the blower motor fried. "Oh that's not related to the testing, it just happened to fry". At that point (by this time the bills were about $750) they 'mentioned' that there was a service bulletin on the fuse block and they had replaced it "free of charge", like I was supposed to be grateful. They also said the fuse block was "burned and scorched".

    It was at that point I started to try and get some resolution from Chevy. It was pretty evident something was seriously wrong with the electrical on the truck. The dealer said they would cover 1/3rd of the bill and Chevy 1/3rd if I would cover 1/3rd. Chevy wouldn't cover their third. That's when contacted their "Customer Care Center" and got offered 5 oil changes and a tire rotation "valued at $450 dollars!

    The truck was ok from 2007 (it was an '05) until 2010 when the window problem happened again. Well I shouldn't say "ok" because I replaced the blower motor a couple times, the engine head when the compression was flat in a couple cylinders, numerous lights, and finally gave up on the CD player. The secodn time the window/fob thing happened (dead of winter with the window stuck down) I took the truck to a competent (non dealer) mechanic that trailed the problem to the window module this time.

    I've also heard of things mysteriously fixing themselves on the truck. I think there may be some truth in fully discharging the electrical system in the truck. I don't know much about vehicle wiring, but I do know something about computers. Given the BCM, ECM etc, and the voltages they work at, I don't think it is all that unbelievable that some error code/message is retained or that some prom is corrupted that resets when power is completely drained. Remember, a lot of these components only "go to sleep" but still require some amount of power even when the truck is turned off. Just leaving the key in the ignition keeps the BCM alive at a higher level than if the key is removed.

    So, problem with the fuse block, definitely - mine was burned. All the other stuff, grounds, connectors too much paint on the body, faulty programming... could be any or all of the above. Unless you really like tinkering with the truck to solve the mystery, just write the thing off as a money pit, a bad investment from a company that should have gone bankrupt, cut your losses, sell the thing and never buy another Chevy product. Trust me, I know from experience, you will be doing yourself a favor. There are plenty of manufacturers out there with similar products that probably support their customers.
  • It DOES help to replace the battery......especially when it's 6 years old, is the original, and won't hold a charge.
  • Yes, there is nothing wrong with replacing the battery 6 years old and won't hold a charge. It's just that removing and replacing the battery won't fix things that are acting up such as mentioned in this thread like blower motor and window/lock operation.

    BTW does someone have any info on the fuse block recall or replacement?
  • "It DOES help to replace the battery......especially when it's 6 years old, is the original, and won't hold a charge."

    Actually with my truck, the first time I had the window/fob thing was after three and a half years, the truck was just out of warrantee by like 6 months. That's the time the dealership said it was the battery, after replacing the BCM and fuse block. At the time the batteries were only available from the dealer for $130 bucks. The second time the window/fob thing happened, replaced the battery as a precaution. That was three years again, but it didn't fix the problem. I took the truck to a competent mechanic that trailed down the problem to the window door module.
  • My 2009 GMC Canyon is having electrical issues AGAIN! Last year I experienced problems when it was cold out (Indiana weather 20-30 degrees out) in the early morning or late at night. Get in the truck and the windshield wipers and windows wouldn't work. The door locks were hit and miss. Took the truck in at least 3 times before they finally could duplicate the problem and it was fixed????? Well again here in 2011 I'm experiencing the same problem. Once again the dealer can't duplicate the problem. GM - I have had it w/ this truck. You need to figure out what the problem is and inform your dealer network on how to fix the problem. I can't say that I will be purchasing another GM vehicle if you can't figure out your problem. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE!!!! Because my dealer can't duplicate the problem. This is the 4-5 time it has been in the shop. Normally for at least a week!
  • al6pndral6pndr Posts: 45
    You have alreday states having "had it w/this truck." being the FORMER OWNER of one of these POS colorados get rid of it and you'll get rid of the problem.. sorry it was the only way I could get the "PROBLEM." solved..GOOD LUCK!!
  • "DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE!!!! Because my dealer can't duplicate the problem. This is the 4-5 time it has been in the shop. Normally for at least a week! "

    You figured out the problem correctly:

    GM Service.

    You figured out the only solution that will work:

    "I can't say that I will be purchasing another GM vehicle..."

    They are not standing behind a flawed product. They went bankrupt. Obama paid back some political favors and bailed them out. Next November Obama will be gone. At that point they will have to be concerned about customer satisfaction again.

    Seriously, sell the truck. I had mine for 6 years. For 4 years I had the endless electrical problems. I'd spend $500-$800 bucks each time, swear I'd sell the truck when it was fixed because of all the inconvienence, but then I would want to get my money out of the 'investment'. Things would be ok for another 6 months or a year and then some other weird electrical problem would crop up. Luckily I found a good auto shop that would find and repair the problem rather than "just guessing", but it was more $$$ each and every time. I finally gave up and bought a Toyota. I absolutely hated to do that, but GM earned that the hard way, by being penny-wise and dollar foolish. Of course it wasn't their dollars anyway but the US tax payers, but...

    GM= :lemon:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    I apologize for your frustrations. Has your dealer involved Technical Assistance? If you email me your VIN and current mileage I would be happy to look into this for you. I look forward to your response!
    GM Customer Service
  • Thank you Christina, I have sent my email with the necessary information.

    If this helps resolve my situation and others can be helped by this that is all that matters.
  • lkhomlkhom Posts: 4
    I have a canyon, crew cab.. i had the same thing w/the window.. i wouldn't use any liquid cleaner.. this is electrical.. right.. no fluid.. burn something out..
    take apart the door panel.. the pins just might be sticking.. the driver side.. drivers like me.. so easy to click, click all doors, windows.. my truck has over 140,000 miles. around 80,000 i quit being lazy and took the door panel apart.. those pins sometimes.. get stuck.. or damage.. i micky moused it.. (with cut off sucker sticks) works just fine.. the heater.. use to cuz some kind of smoke due to the connecter.. fine i broke the 3 pin off no smoke. only can use on 4 level.. i don't mind i don't like to use.. the air cond, or heater for more then 5 min.s at a time..
  • bmintonbminton Posts: 16
    It just hasn't happened yet. Give it time. :lemon:
  • RESOLVED 2004-2005 Chevrolet Colorado Drivers side window and door locks don't work

    After going to GM and buying the schematic for the truck. I found that the security system uses a paired key format.. Meaning the vehicle security system must be paired to an ignition key in order to link the common data bus for the BCM(Body Control Module). If the problem persists beyond this process, you will have to take the vehicle to GM, they will reset the BCM, but not tell you that. They will tell you it was a fuse and charge you 20 dollars. There is no tech bulletin on this issue. Gotta love GM

    Set the parking brake
    Disconnect the battery terminals
    put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory position
    leave the drivers door open
    reconnect the battery(you should hear quite a bit of clicking etc.)
    get inside the vehicle and close the door
    turn the key to off and remove the key
    you hear the door lock actuators open the locks
    You're done.

    Sure hope this helps. This is my girlfriends truck, and of course hers developed the problem in the middle of winter and her window was down about 2 inches as she smokes.. Let's just say, I was under the gun to fix this. GM was no help. Wish you all the best.
  • Well the dealer was finally able to duplicate the problem yesterday. Everything with the fuse block under the hood had power. Which wasn't the case last time. The dealer replaced the BCM last year and that didn't fix the problem. Month later they replaced the fuse block under the hood and that worked till the problems recently resurfaced. Latest development is they think it has something to do with the ground wires from one of those two items. Hoping the problem will show up again so they can test some more and finally come up with a soluation. Fingers are crossed!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    I apologize for your frustrations. Has the dealer spoke with Technical Assistance? Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? I look forward to your response.
    GM Customer Service
  • Went to start the truck this morning, with trouble turning over. Got it to turn over, but within a couple minutes of driving, the CD Changer began randomly shuffling CDs, and the clock reset to 12. Got it back parked, and now when I attempt to turn over, it turns and dies instantly.

    Any ideas? Wouldn't expect this out of a truck with 47k miles, but I've already had to do the brakes and tires so not too shocked at more problems.
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