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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    I was going to pick up a used '07 or '08 EXT 4x4 for about $8K here in Cali.

    I just want one OK! :mad: ... :cry:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    lennx said: He's sure to crash it, so then I can buy my new Trailblazer with everything working on it.

    Lennx also said: I was going to pick up a used '07 or '08 EXT 4x4 for about $8K here in Cali. I just want one OK! ...

    You said NEW which is a lot different than OLD. Tell your story straight and I wouldn't have posted that they aren't made anymore. :P :shades:
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    You're right, I need to be sure my tenses and adjectives are entirely accurate in order to avoid post-confusion.

    Anyhoo, I changed my mind again. I need a mid-sized truck with a bed... so I guess it's another Colorado UNLESS THEY AREN'T MAKING THOSE ANYMORE EITHER? EH? ;)
  • I also have a 2004 Canyon that has reduced power issues. In the last year and a half it has had $5000 worth of parts and labor put into it and still acts up. The best the mechanics can come up with is that moisture is building up in the engine and it is setting off the sensors putting it into reduced power as a safety feature. Anyone have any suggestions what else to look for or how to stop the moisture build up. I just left the garage yesterday and $850 lighter for the truck to act up a couple hours later. It is real reassuring when the mechanics tell you they have never seen anything like this before!! :sick: I am ready to put a match to it.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Don't laugh, we won't know for sure until the end of March when our great uncle decides whether GM survives or not. If not the Colorado sure won't if they do become reborn as a Chinnee Manufacturer. :shades: I know if the American people let the Big 3 die I'll never buy anything ever made in this country again. Let them all die.
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Sir, I am going to say this as respectfully as I can. You are an idiot. :D WAIT! Before you take offense I'll explain why... assuming what you say is accurate.

    1. You have paid $5000 for repairs to a $20,000 vehicle. There are Gambling Addicts who have better control of their Cost/Loss ratio. You could have bought two new engines AND had them installed for that money!

    2. Moisture in the engine? Do you live in the Mojave? Drizzle, Rain, Downpour, Sleet, Snow... at 70mph, where do you imagine all that water is going? Your engine bay is getting soaked! The Lemon Law would be in full effect on that type of defect. There is no "Reduced Power" setting for dampness!!!!!

    3. Your Mechanic is ripping you off blind. You clearly need a friend who has some mechanical/electrical know-how so that he (or she) can take the truck in for you and talk to the Mechanic. When they realize what a BS line you are being fed, they will find you a decent Mechanic and get the problem (which you haven't yet described) fixed for a reasonable amount.

    4. The first time I changed the oil on my first car, I spent an hour trying to pour a gallon of oil in through the dipstick hole cos I couldn't find the oil cap, which was clearly marked right on top of the engine where you would expect it to be. I too am fully qualified idiot. :shades:

    Please describe your symptoms and I'm sure we will be able to tell you what isn't wrong with your Canyon :lemon:
  • go to and check the camshaft solenoid neigbors truck is doing the same thing and we're checking it out this weekend,hope thats it.
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    I am reliably informed that the Alternator only puts out about 50% of the rated amps at idle. So all my plugged in kit is 86ing the batteries. This is progress, so when I figure out why I'm getting low rpms at idle (AIC sensor or vacuum leak) and get that fixed ... I can then get a High Output Alternator installed.
  • steve515steve515 Posts: 2
    Has any one had a problem with there doors locking and un locking while driveing had that happen now it dings all time, and started to not lock by switch or by the fob any ideas.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Sounds like a short. We had it happen on a 3 day old Caddy STS back in 99. The door locks kept locking/unlocking while the seat started moving forward. Luckly we were in a Mall parking lot at the time and was able to stop and turn off the car. Had it towed to dealer where he found a short in the main wire harness. Fixed it and never had the problem again in 4 yers of ownership. Also turned out to be the only problem we ever had with the car even though we were worried for a while having such a major problem on a brand new 3 day old car.
  • steve515steve515 Posts: 2
    Ok so here goes doors will not lock or dislock, drivers window will not go down I see on here where other have had same type problem, disconected batt let sit for a while re-conected and still same, took armrest apart cleand and made sure dry still same issue, any ideas and could not find a ground problem however still checking on that, I hear you talk about the BCM where is that located,could that be it, man do I miss the days when you could actually work on your own auto, thanks all.
  • ECR223ECR223 Posts: 10
    Look back at message #154 from HopeGMC... He explains how to fix it yourself. It did work for me... For a little while, but then it crapped out again...FINALLY took it to dealer, and they said "bad window switch"... It WAS covered under my extended warranty, but they had to order the part.... Drove home from dealer and it didn't work, but when I got in it 3-4 hrs later, everything worked again... So they better still replace it, and I'll let everyone know if it stays working....
  • HopeGMCHopeGMC Posts: 7
    The BCM is located in the passangers front kick panel. If there is now water damage noticed, I would still check the drivers window/door lock control panel. Mine was a 2004 model.
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    I posted this same problem, last year. I also tried all the "tricks" mentioned in this forum, with no luck. Changed out the driver's door lock/window switch and that solved the problem. My truck was not under warranty, so it was expensive to buy, but easy to install. It's very obvious that GM had a major problem with this switch, but they will never admit it. Heck, they have enough other problems to worry
  • bully76bully76 Posts: 2
    My 08 did this as well...the body control module had to be reprogrammed. This is a known issue and there is a TSB in regards to this called Phanton Wiper issue
  • ECR223ECR223 Posts: 10
    Yeah, they said my switch had a short, so that's why it worked intermittently. So hopefully the problem will now be over. I think the receipt said the switch was about $300 or so. Don't have it in front of me at the moment though, so don't quote me on that....
  • tbunchtbunch Posts: 3
    hey everyone,

    I recently found this site, i have a 2004 colorado, ext cab 2wd with 78,000 miles.., about 4months ago, i went to a friends house and the truck ran fine, when i started to leave it would just turn over and kinda shake a little bit i tried for 10 mins and nothing it would just spin over. Well the next day i went up with a mechanic and he told me to try it and wouldnt ya know it fired right up and ran fine. well i thought it was just a fluke because it ran great until yesterday it did the exact same thing again, i let it sit over nite and it started fine, i just dont want to get stuck somewhere and my dealer said they could only fix the problem if it was doing it when i brought it in, this is kinda stupid cause to bring it in i have to start the thing.. lol , any help would be appreciated.

  • What the problem seemed to be with mine was a misinstalled immobilizer. Apparently with the trucks there is some tricky wiring to be done if you add stuff like a immobilizer and a command start like I did. I found a electrical mechanic god that swapped it out 2 weeks ago and I have had no problems since *crossong fingers*. So if you have any mysterious starting and running issues, I suggest finding an electrical guy and get it checked so you don't go thru what I did.
  • tbunchtbunch Posts: 3
    thanks for your reply,

    i dont have anything like that on mine, i dont even have power windows or locks, its ran fine for a year, until i had the first time it wouldnt start, when it runs.. it runs fine, no missing or surging or anything.
  • robl6210robl6210 Posts: 7
    I have the I-5 engine with 77,000 miles on it (previous Union Pacific Railroad truck that idled a lot) - I recommend you retain a good independent technician with electrical/new car dealership experience. I recently had a loose connector on a module under the glove box that first caused the headlights and turn signals to stop working, and second, finally caused the engine not to start at all.
  • hcoombshcoombs Posts: 2
    TBunch: I have had the same problem with my 2004 Colorado. It occurred 3 times in the 5 years I have owned it. In the manual, under "passlock", it states that you can wait 10 minutes and try to start it again and this works for me. However, I would like to find an answer to the problem. Have you spoken to or written to anyone at Chevrolet to get an answer? I did take it to my dealership 6 mos ago and they put it on the analyzer and then told me I should replace the ignition switch module to the tune of $400+. I chose not to do that. The manual also cautions you not to leave the starter engaged once it starts. I have noticed at the times this happened that the starter seemed to stay engaged even though I released the switch key. This may have something to do with the passlock disabling the fuel system, which is what it does. HCoombs
  • tbunchtbunch Posts: 3
    what exactly is the passlock? i dont have power locks or any type of alarm?, and yes sometimes it seems as if it still wants to start even after i turn the key back
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    I was waiting for the weather to get better as this truck is my only transportation I thought I would ride my harley while I get my truck fixed. I told my wife to get it set up to take the truck in with in the next 2 weeks. On 4-7-09 it was a warm afternoon and I stop and got gas got back in the truck and went to roll down the window and it worked I sat at the stop light rolling drivers side window up and down 10 times like a kid. When I got home and and used the key fob to lock and un lock everything is working????? Has not worked since Nov. Now all the sudden starts working I am not going to mess woith taking it back into the dealer I am just going to wait until I change battery or what ever. Dealers act like they never heard of this and in 2 minutes I can google and find many who have had the same symptoms. Just glad it started working.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    sorry little out of context but this is a follow up to my Nov 25-08 posts
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    I posted this same problem, last year. When the weather was warm, everything worked. When the weather was cold, the power door locks and driver's power window would NOT work. Yours may continue to work all Summer, but when Winter returns, the problem will reappear. The only permanent solution is to replace the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly. If not in warranty, it's very expensive. This is certainly a frequent problem by many Colorado and Canyon owners, but GM won't acknowledge.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    Yes I re call reading that. I am keeping print outs of all I find on this problem. Is there any programing involved with the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly? its not clear to me I think I read something about that?
  • flacondoflacondo Posts: 9
    NO programing required. It's a very easy swap-out, so if you have to pay for replacement, I suggest installing yourself and saving the labor cost.
  • slr777slr777 Posts: 7
    Thank you for the information.
  • hcoombshcoombs Posts: 2
    tbunch: in my 2004 Colorado Owners Manual, Pg 2-17, it implies that all of the Colorado's are equipped with the passlock theft deterent system. the system enables fuel to the engine if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key.
    If a wrong key or the cylinder lock is tampered with, the fuel system is disabled. It also states 'remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts'.

    (i still have a feeling that possibly the starter solenoid (sp?) or something in the start circuit is causing the starter to stay engaged too long. I believe that this will enact the passlock.) HCoombs
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Posts: 88
    I think I started this thread way back when or at least this is where I posted the window/lock/fob/starting/battery problem a year and a half ago.

    I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada.

    Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!"


    That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since.

    Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again.
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