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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • gthfishgthfish Posts: 8
    Thanks brokenail for the information, really appreciate it..gary
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    SOLVED!

    I rented a Trailblazer for a week while out of State, same kit setup with phone, radio and batteries charging from my inverter, this vehicle is pretty much the same as the Colorado but has a voltmeter in it showing 14V at idle in the rental place.

    So I'm watching this thing and by day three, the engine is starting to idle up and down and the voltmeter is showing about 12V at idle, but no engine light yet... which means all my kit is drawing more wattage than the alternator is making at idle and the battery is now sweating the load... so I quit plugging in my laptop during idle and, 24 hours later, idle is normal.

    I get home and back in my Colorado, which still has the engine light on and idles between 500 and 700 every two seconds all day. I plug everything but my laptop in and a couple of days later, the idle levels out at 700 and the light goes out! That was several days ago.

    The engine light came back on briefly the other night when I was idling with my headlights on for two hours, but then went out on the way home.

    My belt is squeeling when it gets wet. I think this means I need a new belt? Or it means the alternator is so fried it's creating too much friction...

    Either way, if I want to power my laptop in my truck for more than ten minutes, I have to get a much bigger alternator installed. One that will output 100A+ at idle.

    On another note, I pulled the resistor pack for the blower in the passenger footwell and, wouldn't you know it, the connector on the red wire is all burned and melted. I think there's a Technical Oops Sheet on that so I might find a Chevy dealer who will fix it. JFYI, with the resistor pack disconnected, the blower still works on 4 and the heater, inside/outside button and A/C all work fine.

    My 2005 Colorado just turned 80K and now runs like a dream again. :shades:
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    My 2004 Canyon (3.5L 5MT 2WD) has had a continuing series of small electrical problems since new. These have included no start, blower motor, blower resistor, blower loom (2X), & intermittent rough idle. The truck now has 111,000 miles and finally runs right. The fix was simple, just put a real battery in it. My OEM style group 86-7YR battery died at the bottom of a wilderness lake boat ramp. I had to remove the upper & lower portions of the battery box to fit an old deep cycle battery from my boat to get back out of the mountains.
    I chose to eliminate the battery box & vent hose and select a larger & stronger battery more suited for truck use. I installed a Costco/Kirkland #4 battery which is rated @ 1,000CA & 850CCA. This battery also has a 36Mo/100Mo warrantee & only costs $80.00. The battery is snug but fits into the available space, cables, and the stock battery retainer system.
    The bottom line is that EVERYTHING works better especially the engine which has never run this sweet. I suspect the combination of a minimal battery and a low capacity alternator result in excessive voltage drop and thus high amperage draws everywhere. My next step will be an alternator upgrade. This is a cheap way to stop buying electric parts. I also expect to see an improvement mileage & may get to 30mpg yet!
    Russ
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    Hi,
    On the previous post (#216) I neglected to provide the actual battery identification. It is a 850CCA, GROUP65, Costco item #12866, $80.00, & also called a fitment #4. The width is a really tight fit in the stock retainers & I'm not sure that other brands of group 65 batteries will fit the same. Also late models of Canyon & Colorado both 4 & 5 Cyl have upgraded from 100A to 125A alternators which will probably be an easy & worthwhile conversion on the older trucks.
    Russ
  • merch3merch3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy colorado extended cab and lately my drivers side window has been acting funny, sometimes working just fine and sometimes it just stops for a bout 15 seconds, then will start working just fine again. the locks work, and the mirrors work.

    and then yesterday i got in my truck, put both windows down, and drove about 5 miles. when i parked and tried to put the passenger side window up it didn't budge and so i waited hoping it was just the same problem as the drivers side window but nope... it wouldn't move. so i had someone pull up on it while i pressed the button and it went up just fine, then it worked fine for about 5 minutes then got stuck again. i don't know what is going on. but this morning it worked fine again for a couple seconds then just froze up again. i can hear it click on the passenger side door like it receiving the power its just not moving. ive been reading a lot of posts with people having electrical problems, i don't know if i should hope its electrical or the motors are going out. i don't know which is cheaper. any response is welcome.
  • HopeGMCHopeGMC Posts: 7
    I had the same problem. Look at my entry #154. Hope that thelps.
  • HopeGMCHopeGMC Posts: 7
    Check the connection for the blower motor. Passanger side. Two screws. The problem is that the connectors heat up and loose their connections. If you can take the connector apart - one wire at a time and clean them up and put more tention on the prong, that should take care of it. I would try that before replacing the resistor board
  • Just found this after having issues with my 04 Colorado for a number of years.

    First incident was this: after shopping came out to my trucks wipers going and when I unlocked the door, the blower was on inside. This while the keys were in my pocket. Dealer replaced the BCM. Under warranty.

    Fine for 30,000 miles.

    Next problem: Go out to the truck, nothing works. Try to start, only thing that came on was the service engine icon on the instrument cluster. Nothing else. Dealer replaced the BCM again. $700 bucks gone.

    3 weeks later,
    Driving the truck, filled up gas. Blower on while the keys in my pocket. While driving the truck to the dealer, the wipers turn on then stop mid way, the horn honks twice, the instrument cluster goes completely black then displays the odometer reading as 999999. Blower does not work, locks work, but when you shift out of park or drive it used to lock and unlock the doors, it does not do that anymore. Replaced the BCM again. They are going to replace the instrument cluster once they get it in. So far the dealers techs are dumbfounded on how this is going.

    Any other ideas?

    I am going to ask them to look at the fuse block. Just seems to be a lot of electrical issues with this thing.
  • paul139paul139 Posts: 2
    OK, so I bought a loaded 2004 4x4 crew cab colorado z-71 for my daughter, past owner told me had just put in a new battery, after one month all of the problems listed in this post with the exception of the blower began happening to her truck. So, I began to disconnect and reconnect every harness connector to try and trouble shoot this issue. FINALLY, last night as the no start no power no dash passlock battery good condition occurred once again my neighbor watched the dash while I wiggled wires yet again. and fixed it!!!!!!!!. From the battery trace the small ground wire to the inner fender, remove the bolt, remove the small retainer that holds the eye on the bolt. remove the eye connector, place a "star" washer on the bolt, reinstall the eye, place another star washer on the bolt and reinstall. Problem is resolved. no issues, door locks, lights, dash, pass lock all ok now :)
  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    I have a 2004 Ext. cab 4 wheel drive I5 Chevy truck and the problem I have is my check engine light has come on and will not go off even when you take the key out of the ign. The Chevrolet dealer checked for a code but there is none. HELP!!!
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    The 2004 Chevy Colorado is actually "Decepticon" technology, designed to create confusion and distraction amongst the human population, meanwhile, The Fallen wage their endless war against the "Autobots."

    Seems as likely an explanation as any you'll get from the Dealership. :lemon:
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Posts: 15
    Has anyone replaced their own Body Control Module in this truck?

    Mine went out once under warranty and now it has apparently gone out again. Several things that it controls no longer work like fog lights, door lights, door lock from remote only, cargo light, etc. Got the schematic and traced it back to the BCM... ouch. No warranty this time so I'd like to do it myself.

    It's easy to get to - 5 minute job as far as physically doing it but I don't know if there is any programming needed and I don't know where to get it or what the part number would be. I couldn't find it on rockauto or the gm parts site. My truck is the LS with power door locks and windows, etc. and I only seen the one without all of the power options... The one listed on amazon.com is about $138 but I don't know the correct part number for mine so I'm not sure it will work.

    Any advice out there?

    Thanks,
    Dennis
  • paul139paul139 Posts: 2
    yes read #222 ithink from me paul139, its cheap (less than a dollar) takes 10 minutes and I will bet takes care of the issue. A bad connection on the ground from the battery to the body causes all sorts of issues. In most cases now when you select a function the push button sends a signal to the bcm and the bcm fires the function A bad body ground messes with everything including false codes and BCM faults. Good luck :D
  • kirk11kirk11 Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum but since I have been reading the posts I have hope for my 2004 3.5L ext cab 4x4 pickup. I had electrical issues with radio not shutting off when the drivers door is open. The door lock chime does not work when the lock button is pushed and door is open. I took the vehicle in to the deal who claims the problem was in the drivers door wire harness and it was fixed. I presently have an Air bag light on all the time so I took the back door drivers side apart last night to trace out the wires. The black tape job that was around the wires was loose, I found one expose wire inside the door (I taped it). Where the wire harness boot meets the door frame was a mess. at the connector in the bulkhead there where chaffed wires and the connector looked stressed. I taped that all up and guess what I now have my original electrical problems (radio will not shut off when door is open, and door lock chime does not work), I think that the may be a cold solder joint ( work done by the dealer) and/or the connector at the door bulkhead has issues. The airbag light is still on, it is another problem!
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Posts: 15
    Hi,

    Thanks for the tip but it didn't work in my case but I can see where it would be important to do. As in your case, there was paint under the ground terminal. Of course, paint is an insulator and you really don't want a ground to insulated.

    Anyhow, because I have so many things that are not working I highly suspect the BCM. I stopped in at the local Chevrolet dealer yesterday and asked them what the cost would be and their answer was $265 plus tax plus installation labor plus programming fees plus shop towels plus EPA fluids fees plus etc, etc, etc. Might be able to get out the door at about $1000.

    I was there at the dealer to have the front end aligned and tires rotated and they said I was number 3 inline and that I would have to leave their building because I wasn't allowed to hang around in their waiting room but one hour max. Must be a new government regulation now that GM is owned by US. If I was made of money I would have set the car on fire right there in their lot - I was so mad. I bite my tongue because they said they'd have their courtesy car take me back to work. Guess what - after an hour and a half I had to call someone from work to come and get me because their courtesy person never showed up. I'm expecting the call from the FBI right now about being in their waiting room over an hour.

    IS THIS THE REASON WHY MOST PEOPLE BUY FOREIGN?????

    Sorry... I still need an answer to my original question if anyone knows... what is the correct part number for my BCM and where can I get it programmed?

    Thanks.
  • kirk11kirk11 Posts: 2
    I was able to take off work early today and got home to work on my colorado. This is a followup on #227 by the way. I suspected a bad solder joint at the drivers rear door electrical bulkhead (where the rubber thingy meets the rear door frame bulkhead) moved the rubber back to expose the four wire connector. Because I had taped it throughly the pressure broke the cold and corroding solder joint. So I made a new splice cleaned the wires, slipped on a piece of heat shrink, flux and soldered. I now have my radio off when the door opens and when the key is in the ignition and the door is open the chime activates. :) Hurray for small miracles that saved me a trip to the dealer.

    I still have an Air Bag light on after startup. :confuse:

    Later
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    After reading "russ 95"s mention of the upgraded alternator, I looked into that for my 2005 Canyon 4x4, as it's primarily driven in winter, at slow speeds with lights and heater blower all running at the same time.

    I did an internet search, and found a Delphi alternator supplier on the west coast that provided me with a new 125A delphi alternator for $150. This included a smaller OD drive pulley, which will speed up the RPM of the alternator, and boost output at slower speeds, which I see a lot of, when the roads are snowy and slippery.

    I did the swap-out last weekend, and it was by no means a picnic. I have the 5 cyl. engine, and everything is "shoehorned" into place, there's VERY little room to work. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, which said to remove the lower inner fender panel for fastener access, and the engine lift bracket, to allow the alternator to come out. HAH!!!!!

    I wound up disconnecting the fuel supply/return lines, removing the battery and battery box, as well as loosening and slightly lifting the main fuse box in the LH fender well. Then it was a series of twists and contortions, before I was able to remove the unit. However, it allowed me to see all of the corrosion that had developed on the electrical connections over 4 years of driving in a damp, winter environment. A little Scotch-Brite cleaned everything up, and some dielectric grease on the connections will hopefully keep me trucking!
  • ok my doors locks are acting funny, by this i mean, when i hit unlock on the fob the only one that unlocks is the driver door, same for locking it, when im in the truck and i hit the button to lock or unlock and the driver door is the only door that reacts, now here is what is strange, if i hit lock or unlock on the passenger door, the driver door is once again the only door to react none of the other doors do anything. i am having no window problem on any of the doors
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Although I haven't had that problem with my Canyon, I had/have a similar problem with my Corvette. If the systems are similar, there's a circuit board that has most likely 4 relays that control the lock/unlock functions. If any/all of those relays go bad, the locks won't function electrically. To replace the entire circuit board, at least through the dealer, is about $400, from what I've heard.

    I found a write-up in the CorvetteForum that explained where to source the relays, as well as how to replace them. I took the circuit board out of my Corvette's door and replaced the one bad relay, as the driver's door wouldn't lock from the fob's signal. After replacing it, I was good for a few weeks, until one of the other relays failed, and now it won't unlock from the fob.

    That was last summer, and I hate to admit it, but I just haven't had the time to take the door apart again, and get in there again. It's annoying, bu not a show-stopper.....
  • adecadec Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 gmc canyon 4x4 with 47k miles on it. I have had nothing but problems with it like at first the abs light would come on and the brakes would make a terrible grinding noise, so the dealership took it back and had to replace the hubs took them like three weeks. now i bought the car new shouldn't have these problems right away. So finally they fixed that and then my check engine light would come on almost every 1500 miles after my 30k mark. first it was a fuel cap then an evap problem in the vacuum nd both times they smoked it and found leaks. and now it has come on again and i have to take it back in. The whole ordeal has just discussed me and it is just nickle and dimming me two, three hundred at a time. does any one know what to do or has had these same problems. Or what i can say to a dealer to make it better. thanks.
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Posts: 15
    Hi tyrod_emmons,

    Thanks for the tip but I've already removed the board in the door and replaced both relays. It didn't get better or worse - stayed the same. I have the schematic so I looked for the signal from BCM to the relay board in the door but the signal never gets to the board to tell the door to unlock. For instance, when you press the key fob unlock button, the lights flash and the door should unlock but that unlock signal never gets to the board in the door to tell it to unlock. When I press the switch in the door to unlock the doors it all works perfectly.

    I'm missing other signals from the BCM too. My fog lamps don't work and I checked the relay under the hood and it is not getting the turn on signal from the BCM. My lights in the cab won't turn on when the doors open - again, missing signal from the BCM. Removing the key should unlock the doors - again BCM. The bed light won't work - missing signal from BCM. My radio looses time too, randomly. That one is hard to trace because it could be the BCM or the radio itself. It has done that since new but the dealer wouldn't fix it because they couldn't duplicate it.

    As far as I can tell, the BCM and the A/C fan resistor assembly and harness are very weak points on this vehicle. My BCM was replaced once under warranty as was a lot of other things. It would be easy to say that I should have bought a foreign vehicle but I would have paid over $10K more for the same thing and I couldn't justify it. Even if I have to pay some out of pocket expenses, I've still not come close to paying the extra $10,000. Besides, it's really fun to drive and gets good gas mileage for a truck. By the way, why $10K? Because I used GM bucks and got lots of discounts that Toyota wouldn't even talk to me about.

    Cheers.
  • 2005 Colorado: passenger side window works some times, some times not.
    Doesn't matter if using driver side control of passenger control. If window is
    pulled up or pushed down, it works for a while and then stops again. Took
    door panel off and lubed moving parts and window channels. No help. Anyone
    with same problem?
  • mommy6mommy6 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Chevy Colorado. What kind f maintenance should be preformed by 54,000 miles other than oil change??
    I am a single mom of 3 & I have no clue!
    I have not done any kind of maintenance other that Oil Changes (when the light comes on).
    Now...I know my vehicle & it just doesnt seem ok.
    The gears are not catching on right!
    WHAT SHOULD I DO! HELP!
    Remember..iTS NEVER HAD NOTHING REPLACED OTHER THAN OIL!!
    Thank You SOOO much! :confuse:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    You could have sat down and read and reread the owners manual so you wouldn't have to ask this question as you would know what is needed to be done. Also waiting till the oil light comes on in most peoples opinion is waiting till the oil has outlived it usefulness. And hopefully the oil light you are talking about is one that means it is time/past time to change the oil and not the one that comes on when the oil gets to low. If that is the case you are on borrowed time and have been asking for trouble. SO GET OUT THE BOOKS AND READ THEM, then find a trustworthy Chevy dealer had have them go through it and give you an estimate to bring it back to 100%
  • I just changed my battery on my 2005 GMC Canyon. Everything works perfectly except when I unlock the truck using the keyless remote, the horn beeps three times. It never did this before. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I tried disconnecting the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes. I tried removing the fuses for the power lock and horn. Nothing seems to work.
  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    My blinker on the drivers side will not work. I replaced the bulb and checked the fuse for both sides, can someone help with this?
  • My daughter has an '04 Colorado. She says the dash lights and radio goes haywire and sometimes goes blank. When this happens I will disconnect the positive battery terminal and this seems to clear the problem for awhile. Just replaced the battery and it was about to explode from being swollen. It was also very hot to touch. Parts house had never seen a battery in this kind of shape. What could be causing this problem and could it be related to the battery problem?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I suppose it could be. Being 5 and almost 6 years old I'd go through and clean all the ground terminals on the truck as I think that has been a problem with Colorado along with the wire harness for the door windows/locks etc.
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    I had a battery taken out of my truck with a special battery grip because it was too hot to touch. I had the engine light on and off, the tadio lost half it's button lights, etc. This was the third battery in two years and started a long search for the cause. I then bought a Yellow Optima battery, which is a gel-type battery and have not had a problem with the battery since.

    Things to consider:

    1. Is the vehicle spending more than 5% of the time driving on unpaved roads? This can slosh a 'wet battery' around and mess it up. Standard car batteries are designed for flat surfaces, slow corners, easy driving. Is the vehicle being stored in freezing conditions? This is also an issue for standard batteries.

    2. Is the vehicle charging the battery adequately? You can test this easily by turning the engine on and putting a $10 Tester on Vdc across the terminals of the battery. You should be seeing 13.8V or higher at idle, which will rise to 14.3V or more at 1500rpm.

    3. Run the vehicle around for 10 miles and then turn it off. Check the Vdc across the battery again and, if it's below 12V, The battery is acting a resistor and will be getting hot as the alternator attempts to force charge into it. Buy a 'Gel battery' or even a 'Dry battery', they cost a little more but they are plenty powerful and handle adverse conditions much better.

    Make sure the idle speed is about 650 for the i5 engine. if not, the first thing to do is get a $3 can of "Gumout" Throttle Body cleaner (do not use anything else), remove the ari hose between the filter box and the vacuum box, you should be able to look through the vacuum box and see the throttle plate. Spray it liberally all over for a count of three, turn the engine over (you may have to replace the air hose because of the MAF sensor) then spray it again. Refit the hose. Fire it up and you should see a noticeably improvement at idle and under acceleration. This has a direct effect on the charging system as the alternator output at idle may be too low at 500rpm.

    Good luck!
  • mikeyrmikeyr Posts: 2
    Tyrod,
    Have you solved this problem? I am having the same issue. Looking at wiring schematics, there is a gray wire that is spliced off the gray drivers door wire, and it splits off to the remaining 3 locks. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with this connection. Otherwise it is probably the BCM and replacing doesn't appear to be cheap, and I have no clue if it needs to be reprogrammed or not, because replacing it would be easy enough. I could be out to lunch, I can't say I've done much with the wiring of a truck!
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