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Suzuki XL-7

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Troopers are higher in the rear than the fronts too.

    -mike
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    They were all four at 27 psi on the one we drove. Seemed a bit soft, one GV owner said he ran them at 30-32 and seemed to handle better, although a bit more harsh.
    The biggest compliant seemed to be wearing quickly and close tight treat pattern locking up with packed snow and making the tires essentially "bald", where they then started sliding around a lot. Here in SE VA we don't get a lot of snow, so that's not a big concern

    I thought they were pretty cool just looking at them, fairly wide and with the 16" rims, the low aspect ratio makes them look kind of "street rod". But tires can easily be replaced, just hate to not get at least 40k out of the originals.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Wow, a lot of people here on edmunds never like to change their tires. I generally will replace my tires @ 40K and at most 50K. Don't forget that is the only thing between you and the road. Also beware of low TPs. Ford Exploders...

    -mike
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    Some tires are shot by 35k, but I try to get at close to 50k if I can. Most decent radial AT tires you should get that if kept properly inflated and rotated. We had a Mazda B series (Ranger) here at work that got over 80k on the original Michelin tires and still looked OK, but we figured they went the distance and then some and changed them. Mostly highway miles. I realize stock tires are only going to be so-so, but the GV owners really dogged these Bridgestone Duelers. Also, Bridgestone is sister to Firestone, so not a lot of confidence in these.
    Any owner comments?? Sure is quiet on this board.
    Paisan, any suspension suggestions for the XL-7 like putting the Rancho 9000's on or stiffer springs?
    I noticed the front is MacPherson struts, does that mean you can't change out with Rancho's?
    Also this truck could certainly use a front skid plate to protect the front end driveline components.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have over 140K miles of experience on dueller 684s (2 sets on my Rodeo, 1 set on my Trooper) they are a good overall tire. Never had a problem with them cracking or coming apart. They held their traction on them up to 50K miles. Excellent overall. I've taken em off-road and snow. Not the best, but for the $ good overall.

    -mike

    PS: More on suspension in a bit.
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    Any idea about suspension upgrades?
    We're going to pick it up tonight! There was a $295 processing fee put in there that wasn't disclosed before, but that was the only surprise. Got them to throw a hood protector in for free due to the miles. A few scratches were bad enough they might have to paint. I told them if they'd throw in the cross bars for the racks, I'd live with the scratches as is. Well see how it "buffed" out tonight and decide. Sales cost was $20,879 for a 4x4 auto Plus
    The misses is excited to have her own 4x4 so I'm not the only one with a truck. I think it will fit our life style well and be somewhat practical also. I'll try to report back on it and see how well it holds up.
  • xlmomxlmom Posts: 3
    We were in the shop the other day for another vehicle and they had a xl7 up on the rack. Problem: get this, time for a tune-up 60k and some new tires. The guy who owns it said that he had changed the tires that came on it from the factory, so he bought new rims and tires, and hated it! Went back to the original.
    Took mine on the first road trip, about 1000 miles this weekend, wish the gas mileage was better, but no complaints. I expected the gas mileage to stink considering traffic was running at 75+.
  • will tell you to run with 26 psi in front, 32 in back. If you have a fully loaded XL-7 change the back to 36. Keep an eye on the psi and you tires will last as long as they state they will. The side channels on the tires is why the do not dissapate(sp?) snow as well as some tires. Every customer I have sold tells me that MPG improves with age.
  • dmarzodmarzo Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I currently have an option deal on a Honda CR-V. The option is up in early 2002. I have been planning to just buy it out as I have been generally pleased with it. And then I came across the XL-7. Two things have piqued my interest in the XL-7: 1)an attractive option deal and 2) the third row of seats. The good financing runs out this weekend and I am questioning whether I should make the plunge.

    My three main criteria: are a decent finance deal (the Suzuki seems like a good one); durability (I want to keep it for 6-7 years and would probably put 12-15K miles on it a year; and size (I am married with three kids so the third row is attractive)

    I would appreciate advice from those familiar with both the XL-7 and the CR-V as to their impressions. I hate the process of buying a new car and am leaning towards just keeping the CR-V at this point but I would appreciate inputs that might sway me.

    Many thanks

    Dave M
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    I think the Suzuki beats the CRV hands down on features, options, space, and power. But the Honda reliability is always great and I think the CRV is listed by Consumer Reports as "the" most reliable vehicle out there. Suzuki reliability is good, but not excellent like Honda and Toyota. We just got an XL7 and love it, but I'm sure by 100,000 miles some repairs are likely. We are doing the $249 a mo. lease deal, so I felt like if it proved to be not so reliable, we would just turn it in at the end of the lease. We drove the CRV and it was nice, but seemed sparsely furnished. My wife thought it was too slow, we were getting on the freeway, she had it floored and just looked at me like, this is a joke. It was slower than her Corolla. The Suzuki just seemed like more of a vehicle, the V6, the rear A/C, real 4WD, towing capacity (3000lbs), the third row seating all added up to a lot more vehicle for the same (or less) money. The third row is useable, mainly for kids, but the middle row really only seats two, the middle seat of the middle is on a bad hump and the lap belt is poorly located (because of the 60/40 split). But it certainly has more room than the CRV. The Suzuki also is very quiet and stable feeling (relatively speaking). My wife really likes it, she thinks it's a good compromise between a full size suv and the mini-mini's. The gas mileage is better than most larger ones and it's pretty easy to park and get around in. I guess it comes down to which is more important, features or Honda's reputation for quality. Not that the Suzuki isn't well built, it just has a few cheaper items on it and its reliability might not match the CRV. We love it so far and would recommend one to anyone. We paid $20,879 for an '01 Plus 4x4 Auto and then took the lease deal. Got them to throw in a hood protector to compensate for 950 miles on the odo and some cross bars for the racks to make up for some scratches on the rear door. I've heard rumors that '02 might have a bit more horsepower and has the seats re-done to fold completely flat and not have any gaps between the seats, don't know if this is really true. Good Luck!
  • Thank you so very much for taking the time to give me your thoughts on the CR-V versus the XL-7. I am very appreciative of both your time and insights. I might just make the plunge tomorrow--the XL-7 seems so tempting. Your thoughts on it will help quite a bit.

    Dave
  • is 183@6000 rpm's
  • On the PSI: I run mine at 2lbs under the max listed on the tire. It makes for a slightly choppy ride but I have found this high pressure really helps the tires live long. I was able to get 105K out of the Michalens (sp) on my van and 90K on my wife's Probe. The high pressure makes for easy turning and spreads the wear around the entire tire.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    is pushing it, IMHO. I don't care if there is tread on them or not, but 105K is way too long, and 90K is too. I figure that is the only thing between you and the road. 50K max is what I do, generally by then you need em, even if there is tread left. I too use higher pressures for better control.

    -mike
  • If you run the factory PSI you will hear the tread being scraped off the tire when you do slow turns. It sounds like someone is taking a set of shears to the tires. Run over the limit to the feel you are comfortable with but not over the max. Just an idea. I had this brand on my 4-Runer and they did really well but they were the knobby tires. Well, enough on tires.
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    I pumped the pressure up to 30 in the front and 32 in the rear. Much better turning now, although a bit more tight on the bumps. Has anyone noticed the door placard calls for 26 front, and 26 rear unladen and 36 laden! What a huge difference. I think the factory 26 is way too soft. Caused a lot of squealing in hard turns and more steering effort when making tight maneuvers like parking.
    Put the cross bars on the roof rack on this weekend, but they make some noticeable wind noise, so I took them back off. They are very easy to attach and remove, so I'll just put them on when I'm actually going to use them.
    Got her all cleaned up and waxed this weekend, so far everything is tight and functioning properly!
  • Interesting about the difference in PSI for the tires and I do run the high PSI. I agree about easy turning--much, much better. I am getting ready to purchase the cross bars also and figured they would add a little noise but also that they would only go on when used. With the sunroof open I do not need any extra noise. Mine is really more of a toy for weekends with the dogs but at 5k plus she is still tight.
    From reading I understand they have come up with a flat floor for the 2002s. I am waiting for them to come in so I can see how they solved the gap between the 2nd and third row and determine if I can do a retro fit. Right now I have a large piece of plywood on the floor so the dogs do not fall into it but that is only temporary till I come up with a better solution. I am thinking about a piece of plexiglass (sp) with a small hinged piece to cove the hole.
  • Hi there, I am looking into purchasing a XL-7. I wondered if anyone had any suggestions on good questions to ask while shopping. I have debated about getting a 2001 after the 2002's come out in order to get a better price, but I'm afraid if I wait too long, they will be gone (what the dealer told me) or the good financing will not be offered. Not that anyone looks forward to dealing with car dealers, but I'm a young woman without a ton of car knowledge and I am definitely not looking forward to the whole process, that is why I want to be as informed as possible. This town hall thing is really helping. But any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
    -Anne
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,015
    You may want to look around our Womens Auto Center Board too.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • Morning. While there are 4 models the base is very rare and you really would not want it anyway, even if you found one. There is the plus, touring and limited. Go to the pricing part of Edmund’s and get the base price for the models and go from there. The best value for the money, in my opinion, is the touring. It is the limited without the leather, automatic, and running boards. I can not remember if ABS is on both the touring and limited or just the limited. You will most likely not find a touring with a stick. I have over 5k on mine (limited) and we like it very much. The major changes from 2001 to 2002 are heated mirrors, slight increase in horse power (about 8 I think) and a flat load floor Vs the 2001 that has space between the second and third row seats. You can also go to the library and look at some of the current magazines and read about the upgrades from 2001 to 2001. The present one has plenty of horses so that is not a problem. Enjoy
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