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Suzuki XL-7



  • momx2momx2 Posts: 14
    I acquired a 2001 Suzuki in late August. I love the vehicle, but did have a problem. Early one morning(after loading the kids in the car) I noticed that the back passenger tire was completely flat.
    Well, my husband was soon on his way and replaced
    the tire with the spare. Upon inspection of the tire, (he thought I pick up something in the road the night before to cause the flat) he discovered that there was what he describes as a "crack" in the wall of the tire. I did not pick up something in the road. The tire did not have a single scratch near the crack" to indicate that I bumped something in the road. I called the dealer to see about replacing the tire. The dealer could not help me. They referred me to a facility that could help. The manager at this "tire chain" said that the warranty would not be honored due to the fact that they are not sure why the tire "cracked". The cost of the new tire will exceed $135.00 and is on special order because they do not have it in stock. I will be without a spare tire for at least a week. I love the car, yet I am disappointed. I heard that the tire pressure must be monitored on a frequent basis, but with less that 3,000 miles on the vehicle? Any advise??? Help please.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not quite sure what you want us to help with. You should inspect your tires visually at every other fuel up. Tire pressures should be checked on a monthly basis. And yes occassionally there are bad tires that come out. $135 for a suzuki size tire seems a bit stiff. I pay only $100 for my trooper ones and these are 245-70-16s.

  • Most tires are covered by the tire manufacture, not the car company. You should get it replaced as a defective tire by the manufacturer since there were no obvious hits or dings on the tire. It sounds like a manufacture defect and should be replaced for nothing. If you can not get any satisfaction from the tire people you are dealing with go to you owners package and in it should be the information on the tire and a hot line to call. It usually is a toll free number. It sounds like this tire dealer is just trying to make a buck.
  • There is a way to check your pressure without using a pressure gauge. You can go to a large auto parts store and pick up a set of four devices that go on the tire stem where you put air into the tire. Once the tire is at the proper pressure you put this small device on and if the pressure goes two or three pounds below what it was when you put it on a little red warning pin will pop up to let you know the pressure is down.
    A little more expensive is a tire pressure warning system that can be put inside each wheel that sends a warning to a small box that you mount on your dash or someplace that you can see easily that says the pressure is low.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    While Greyhounds' idea is a good one, it still will never replace a physical visual check of your TP and tire condition. By actually getting out ever other fuel-up, and physically checking the tires visually, you'll see things such as abnormal wear, cracking, or tears in the sidewall, all of which can lead to a dangerous blowout. Let's just learn to be a little responsible, or is that too much to ask for Americans anymore? :)

  • I agree about nothing replacing physical checks but these can help as an early warning between checks. A quick look in the morning or just prior to going some place.
  • I'm looking to get a trailer hitch on my XL-7. Was hoping someone could recommend a place with the best price. From my searching it looks like the hitch that fits the XL-7 is the Draw-tite 41537? Are there any other hitches that work?
    Also noticed that there were some skid plate accessories? Anyone purchased one of these? What was the cost and what kind of quality were they.
  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    I agree with the other guys, that tire should be replaced at no charge whatsoever. At only 3,000 miles is certainly still under warranty. Those Bridgestone/Firestone guys are probably burned out by replacing so many Firestone tires that they are trying to not give any away if they can.
    You might want to try another Bridgestone dealer, there are usually a few around if you're in an urban area.
    Unless they can prove a road hazard (nail, screw) or that you whacked it hard enough (which would leave some kind of mark) they should replace it for free.
  • clay11clay11 Posts: 17
    Living in Canada, pricing will not be of much relevance to you. But as an FYI...had a Hidden Hitch trailer hitch installed for $350CDN which included a Class III hitch, 7-pin plug, mount with 2" ball, wiring and installation. Gave it a solid workout on a recent roadtrip and all went well. I understand Suzuki can install a hitch except that it is only a 1 & 1/4" mount and that its hangs down from the rear of the vehicle, somewhat like a step. The dealer service manager did not particularly recommend this and even the sales guy has a Hidden Hitch on his XL-7. The HH model (do not have the specific number handy but can get it off the hitch if you really need it) sits tightly up and behind the bumper and I believe is the same model recommended for the Grand Vitara. Hope this helps.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have a HH on my trooper. Excellent hitch, excellent fit, and it is truely hidden, except for the square box for the receiver.

  • If you have the model number for the hidden hitch I would like to have it. Any thoughts on the Draw-tite model?

  • rhechtrhecht Posts: 2
    My son had a great laugh (at me) while I listened to the CD that came with my Grand Vitara but I learned that you can store the third row headrests under the second row of seats. There is elastic and velcro under the seat.
    Meanwhile, my salesman said that the crossbars on the roof rack aren't necessary. He said you can store stuff right on the roof. Does that sound right?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you want to scratch the paint, you can. the rails I'm assuming are just rubber stips that sit on the roof's surface, thereby not adding any strength. I'd personally get the rails.

  • If memory serves the cross rails will hold more than the roof. I would have to check the owners guide but 200LBS comes to mind. If you have a sunroof you really have to be careful. If the roof gets just a little bow in it the seal around the sunroof could go bad. Spend the money, get the cross rails.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Oh you mean the ones that go across. Those are definitely worth it. They won't hold more than the rack itself is rated at (usually around 100->150lbs on US spec vehicles) Of course your rack will likely hold 2-3x the amount listed. Thank the lawyers for that.

  • tistevetisteve Posts: 142
    I have the cross bars on ours and they are nice, certainly Thule/Yakima quality. When I first put them on, they made some noticeable wind noise. I put my thick wrap around kayak pads on them and that quieted them down to acceptable levels.
    They are easy to remove with no tools and they have locks on them. I got them to throw them in for free due to some scratches on the truck, but I think they are around $150 (?).
    Yes, you can use the rails (without crossbars)to hold stuff, but you'll probably scratch the paint. There are raised roof "ridges" that run parallel to the rails to keep any cargo slightly off the roof, but they are just painted bumps. I would think one of those car top bags with a rubber bottom on them could sit up there with out damage, but it would drive me nuts to have anything touching the paint.
    By the way, the Mont Blanc crossbars are a "universal" type rack that fits just about any vehicle with roof rails, so I'm sure there is a Yakima or Thule system that would also work. They just won't have the cool Suzuki logo on them.
    The cross rail racks are rated for 185 pounds, but the rails are only rated for 100 pounds, so you wouldn't want to exceed that.
    3000 trouble free miles and counting!
  • Jamthomp -
    I've got the Hidden Hitch on my XL-7 as well, installed by the dealer. Can't tell you the retail, as I negotiated that into the deal for "free". Anyhow, the model number for the 2" is #99005 (you can verify this, and get the model number for the 1 1/4" from A friend of mine also bought an XL-7 a week after I bought mine (didn't know I had that kind of influence over anyone). He's getting a Dalan (I think) from I think it was about $140. One thing he came across was that the wiring harness seemed to be cheaper from the dealer than from hitch-web. I think I recall him saying he paid $30 for it from the dealer.

    5greyhounds -
    I see what you mean about the filter being less than convenient for changes (funny, seemed more accessible before I owned it). How do you change yours? Access seems best from above, although it's nearly impossible to see the mounting face. Any recommendations you can offer to make things easier would be greatly appreciated. For what it's worth, I just can't make the leap of faith to the 5K changes (much less the recommended 7500), so I'll be sticking with dino for now (financial considerations, of course -- I'll need a second mortgage if I switch to synthetic at the rate I need to change the oil).

    I just filled up today (it's 4th), and got the my best MPG yet -- 22.9 with 1000 miles on it. Had to readjust the TP's after the alignment. Dealer must have thought they were doing me a favor and lowered them all to 29 PSI.
  • I actually go in from under the truck. It is a little “by the feel” method but I have a problem with getting past all the other things in the engine bay. As to using synthetic: My 95 Windstar went 138K on the 5k oil and filter change with not a problem, as is my wife’s Probe GT (113k). I would still have the Windstar if a man did not run a light and total it. It used less than a quart every 5k. The same with my wife’s probe. I know a man who works for the Mobil oil development team and we were talking about oil changes and he told me you could change just the filter and add a quart every 5k and you would still be doing better than with a conventional oil. That was a stretch but that is what he said.
    As to cost. If you do three changes of synthetic at about $25 a change (5 quarts at $4 each and $5 for a good filter) for 15k that is $75 bucks. If you do 5 changes at about $12.50 a change (5 quarts at $1.50 plus $5 for a good filter) it is about $62 bucks. Not really that much difference in cost and you save the mess of the two extra changes. Of course this is if you do it at exactly every 3k. I feel really comfortable if I have to stretch it a little with the synthetic, not with the conventional.
    I fill up last week and got 22.3 with 7.5k. I think that will be as good as it gets since it has decent miles on her. (BTW: all my cars are female, even the trucks)
  • clay11clay11 Posts: 17
    Firstly to Jamthomp's question...the model of the Hidden Hitch on my XL-7 is 87005. Keep in mind this is a Canadian reference so it may be different to US retailers. It is a Class III and common with the Grand Vitara.

    With regard to MPG, I am also doing around 20-22 on regular city driving. Currently have approx. 12,500 miles on her.

    Also wondered if anyone had updates on the rear seat floor cover for when the seats go flat. Saw this for the first time in the dealer on the weekend. While a permanent flap fitted to the back of the rear seats, even the dealer rep. wondered if they could be made available as an after-market accessory for those of us who already own a vehicle. If the interior is damaged, one assumes there are replacement flaps to repair it? Any news or updates on availability? Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    is actually made in Canada IIRC.

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