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Ford Windstar Engine Problems

24

Comments

  • you can get more then that for just the metal alone....take off the catalytic converter and get at least $50.00 for just that.....strip it and sell the tires.......
  • Thanks for the advise. It will be taken into consideration. Considering placing it in my backyards and selling it for parts, Ha!
  • Thanks for the advise. It will be taken into consideration. Considering placing it in my backyard and selling it for parts, Ha!
  • I've got a Windstar, car is realable, and start on any condition, snow, rain etc.
    The problem is that i need to let the car heatup 5 min on bad weather, i've got no Kickdown on hightway, and on the street if i press the gaz pedale, the engine don't give me any boost, or power, it seem that the truck can't breathe it seems that the cataliseur is the probleme or the senseur, i want to change those part, 2 Catalytic on it.
    Would that solve the power and the kickdown.
  • Can anyone please tell me how you remove the radiator in a 2002 Ford Windstar LX
  • This is the first time am attempting to use Ford. I purchased 1995 Windstar GL in Lome Togo just a week ago, but before it could be driven to my Town, the gasket burned on the way, due to overheating. Please what do i do. Now we have not even find the gasket to buy, and the car is still left on the highway in the bush. the part is scarce and very expensive compared to those of other cars. Please how can this overheating be rectified. The temprature guage and the fuel guage needls are never on Zero even when the electrical system is not on; engine is not running and is completely at rest. please help. The vehicle was said to have been imported from America. Could this problem be due to aclimation to African weather?, help me, my mechanic couldnt tell what the cause is.
  • mfacdgba33mfacdgba33 Posts: 19
    take some carberator cleaner and spray around the intake gaskets while the engine is running. if you hear the engine idle down or want to die then those dang intake o rings are bad on that one or more than one windstars have a bad problem with those intake gaskets.
  • varix3dvarix3d Posts: 3
    I'Ve got some problem trying to find out why my Windstar doesn't have power.

    I had problem with the catalitic then decide to simply clean it up in a way, i then change all the sparkplug, and still car doesn't have engin power, it's like the engin can't give me full power.

    I know it's a old car and i cant do Kickdown, the transmission is not 100% perfect, the problem is really about power, even on PARK, if i press the gaz pedal, engin wont run smooth, and increase to 4rpm, i can barelly get to 2rmp.

    What could be the problem ?
    Could it really be about the catalic would it be the best solution to remove them, since they cost a bundle to fix.
    I try to punch a hole in them ( sorry i dont have the proper term )
    I notice i've got one Catalic sensor or two that are broke, would this prevent the engin to give his full power ?

    On the hightway, at 100 or 120 kl, car run smooth, little bump sometime, but overall engin is smooth, but i cant accellarate like any other truck.

    Any suggestion
    Thx
    Sam
  • dalipdalip Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 windstar 3.8 l
    on the stop sign the idle is very low and the car want to die and oil light cams on
    when i put on park is ok
    i replaced idle sensor
    still same problem i send to the mechanic i put the code reader and the codes are
    1- p0401 2- p1538 bank 1 3- p1537 bank 2
    i replacet bank 1 and 2 still same problem
    in the start when car starts is ok after 5 minutes driving starts the problem

    any idea
  • I went to start my 1996 Windstar, has only 90,000 miles on it and it blew the oil pan half off. Ever hear of that? I am disabled, without a vehicle and nobody can explain what happened to me. I turned the key and BOOM! in the engine and all my oil was on the parking lot in about 2 seconds. There is a 3 inch hole in the oil pan. I'd appreciate any ideas as to what happened. One guy wants $300.00 just to pull the pan off which is ridiculous. If I had 2 good legs I could do it in an hour. The thing is, I need to figure out what did it to determine if I have severe internal damage. Would ether in the gas tank or something else that's explosive do this?

    I need some answers and don't want to replace the pan and find out it's not worth doing. There must be some sort of test or explaination for this. This van was running fine and is in mint shape as well. It'd be a shame to scrap it for the wrong reason.
    If you have any ideas, please contact me.

    Thanks, Steve
  • Engine would die right after ignition. Would spit and sputter, idling at very low RPM if I kept pushing gas pedal and slowly released. If I could get it in gear w/out it stopping, then it would run until I stopped to get gas or go to the store etc. But after a few hours of not starting it will start again. It will back fire while try to start it. This problem comes and goes. I have replaced the intake gasket (1 large gasket) 6 smaller round gaskets and 8 bolts with gaskets on them for the intake manifold. (As per the ford service group)
    Please....some one help.
  • I own a 2000 Windstar and noticed that the vehicle would randomly die when I come to a stop. Does not happen all the time though. It also putters when I start it and then dies. It will start up again within a couple of seconds. I am not getting a check engine light at all. While in park or idle, RPM's are at about 600. :surprise:

    Anyone out there have the same problem?
  • hi rayden had similar issue on a 99 found out problem was coming from distributer shaft located at the back of motor on passenger side not an easy task . a haynes or shiltons book is very usefull .the shaft and gear sometimes wears out.
    gworley
  • slms1slms1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and have had to replace the intake gaskets, MAF and now the upper intake manifold. This last repair seems to have done the trick, the car is running fine, but the engine light is still on. It is now reading possible codes of oxygen sensor, inginition misfire and again the MAF and of course the good old adages of lean fuel codes bank 1 and 2. Please help...its symptoms of kicking while idling and acting like the engine was revving have stopped. I am putting alot of money in this car and really can't afford any more. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • gworley,

    thanks for the reply. My Windstar also lopes when I start it and then dies if I don't press the gas pedal. I can let it sit for about ten seconds and pump the gas and it will be ok for about two days. No check engine light at all though. :(
  • Could be the mass air flow sensor, or fuel pressure regulator going bad. Also, sometimes a more simpler fix is hard to find, but there is usually an idle screw adjustment on the throttle housing or which used to be where the "carbuerator" was on older models. sometimes wear occurs there, and all you have to do is adjust the idling screw up a bit to solve the problem, mechanics at shops overlook this adjustment frequently, a simple fix usually with this screw, but it is sometimes hidden and hard to see, just trace the accelerator linkage and you will find it! Hope this is of some help.
  • Could be gas filter or gas cap, (1) The first thing I ALWAYS do is add try adding a bottle or two of "Heat" gas treatment to no more than 10 gallons of gas, never hurts! Also there is a mass air flow sensor, or fuel pressure regulator that could be going bad, there are many, many more things it COULD be. (2) sometimes a more simpler fix, and the screw is hard to find, but there is usually an idle screw adjustment on the main Injection port or throttle housing which used to be in the area where the "carbuerator" set on older models, and all you have to do is adjust the idling screw up a bit to solve the problem, mechanics at shops overlook this adjustment frequently, a simple fix by idling up the engine a bit with this screw, has fixed several for me! but it is sometimes hidden and hard to see, just trace the accelerator linkage and you will find it! This may not solve everyone's problems, but hope this is of some help to a few.
  • fadlfadl Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem and replacing the spark plugs fixed it for a short while. One of the spark plugs was dirty, the problem went away after it was replaced.
  • slms1slms1 Posts: 3
    We did a tune up on Thursday, the plugs were dirty, didn't help. The car started acting up again. We had it at the mechanics on Thursday morning, did a smoke test and there were no leaks, but it is an obvious vacuum issue. I spoke to someone Saturday night that told me its the lower intake, this leak doesn't show up on a smoke test. He said there is a rod that goes through the lower intake and it has something like a neoprene sleeve around it. The sleeve wears out and slips into the manifold causing the leak. He thinks replacing this will take care of the whole problem. I can't talk my husband into buying a new vehicle and this is at least a $600 repair I am told, on top of the $1000 we have already sunk into it. I will let you know if and when we repair it, if it was the problem. All I know is I am ready to junk it, I don't want to be on the highway with kids in tow and breakdown.
  • Hello,
    My WS was idling rough so I got a tuneup and oil change @ 100K miles. A couple of weeks later the oil light came on; I checked and I was almost dry.

    Took it back to the mechanic who said I need a valve cover kit.

    Took it to another mechanic today who agreed with the first guy's diagnostic code (vacuum seal leak?) but he says I'm losing too much oil for the valve kit to fix the problem.

    Expl: I put in 2 quarts 3 days ago and today I've lost a quart of it.

    Mechanic #2 fears the problem is in the motor but won't know until taking things apart (costly).

    Does anyone have any advice?
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