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Chevy Tahoe

This topic is a continuation of Topic 3260....

2000 Yukons/Tahoes - Any Details - XII. Please
continue these discussions here. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host


  • Can someone take a picture of the exact location of the rear a/c drain and either post it or send it to me. I have looked for it and can't seem to find it on my Yukon. I am worried that it is plugged up because I never see any drain water on the floor for that system but always see it for the front system.

  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Tried before to find something on how to replace welded door hinges but failed. While trying to find a picture of rear A.C. Drain hose for CW I came across Page 8-1508 = Collision Repair. It details a step by step procedure to remove and replace the old welded hinges.
    If someone still needs this procedure I`ll post a summary of the step by step.
    Please advise.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    There are about 15 pages of assembly/disassembly instructions on the rear A.C. and Heater Assembly. No where did it tell me to do anything with a drain hose or drain connection. The drawings do show a short item that protrudes thru the floor between the two heater hoses.
    If you slide under the rear bumper area you will notice four connections going thru the floor. The rear two are the air conditioning pipes. Inboard of these two and more forward are two heater hose connections. Directly between these two hoses the drawings show a short cone shaped nozzle. Sorry that no where do they specify this item but I think it must be the drain.

    If you find this item please DO NOT force a sharp object very far upward since the Evaporator coil is directly above this point - BE GENTLE.
    Please advise if you find that this is the drain so I can mark up my service manual and notify GM of my 24th manual correction.
    I think I now know why the 2001 Service Manual is so very late. It`s because they did such a poor job on the 2000 Service Manual. At least they will have a better product - I hope.
  • The part of the vinyl/rubber drain tube on our Tahoe that can be seen from underneath the vehicle is approximately 1 and 1-2 inches long. It is approximately 3/8 inch in diameter and round where the upper end goes through
    a cross-member support. On the lower end the item is shaped so that the sides are parallel to each other and there is only a very small opening. The item is to the inner side of the a/c tubes that go through the floor pan. Our vehicle does not have a
    rear heater core. Orville
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    thanks for the info on the door welds. I'll look it up tonight...I knew it was in there, just couldn't find it...or didn't look long enough...
  • My 2001 Suburban LS has just over 6000 miles and my rear driver side power window just quit. When it first happened both rear windows would not respond. The passenger side window starting working again right away, but the driver side won't budge. For those of you that have had yours fail and then fixed, have they been okay after the fix? Will this be a pain in the neck reoccuring problem or once it is fixed it is fine?

    Second topic: What does everone think of the Pennzoil Multigrade oil with Purebase. The brochure talks about many of the pluses that I have heard others on this conference talk about when recommending Mobil 1. Since my Chevy dealer is using Pennzoil do you think they would us Mobil 1 if I requested it or will they give me some bs about it voiding warranty? Thanks....
  • Cliff, an interesting poll to do or mayby some of out participents could include in their posts is their average milage by dividing the run hours available at the odometer site into there vehicle milage. Mine works out to 39.3 MPH Mike
  • Bill, both my rears have failed. It takes a while for the dealer to get them. While waiting for my first one to come in the second one failed. I have read other posts where the replaced ones are failing too. I intend to wait until they re-engineer these things So i don't make unessesary trips and wear and tear on the door panels. Im sure someone on this site will post when new part numbers on these motors come out. An other GM wonder. Mike
  • I just rotated my Wilderness LE's for the second time tonight with 19,100 miles on them. Very little wear showing and its even wear. Im impressed at the brake wear(or lack of). The front pads don't appear to have any reduced thickness. The backs are a little thiner. This is interesting because the backs will usually last longer. These trucks must be engineered to have the rears do more braking as the rears are actually bigger than the fronts. All the cars ive had, the reverse has been true. Extrapolating from what i see at this milage i think i can get mayby 60 to 75 thousand out of the rears and 100 thousand out of the fronts. I am easy on brake though. Mike
  • Your average miglage is 31.7 MPH, you must be sitting at more red light than me. Mike
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Arnold Palmer recommends it.....LOL!!
  • Thanks for the feedback regarding your video system.
  • They a certainly there for decorative purposes. On a clear evening press the fog light button while sitting in the truck. You won't notice the sightest bit of difference in illumination.


  • They do add a little extra light, but definity not as much light as one would expect if they were supposed to be 'driving' lights. I find they give extra light to the sides and give a wider field of view.

  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    My TransAm(4 wheel disc) wears the rear brakes faster than the fronts as well.
    The rear pads are a little less thick than the fronts when new, but I would think the braking system puts more emphasis on the rear brakes for what ever reason. May have something to do with the ABS.
    Either way, I thought it was kind of strange the first time I went to do a brake job. I assumed it was the fronts that were starting to squeel but it was the rear set.
    To date, replace rear set twice front set once.
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    Had both rear window motors replaced not too long ago. No problems YET with the new ones. The new motors were the same part number as the original so I would imagine it's just a matter of time.
  • On one foggy morning I put on the famous fog lights, knowing it was not helping me but maybe with 4 lights facing forward someone else could see me better.

    When I got home from the 20 minute trip, I only had 3 lights facing forward, one of the cheap fog light bulbs exploded.

    dealer gave me a new bulb under warranty, but they are just a novelity that I think I will avoid using.
  • After waiting through a very long order process (ordered in July), I finally took home my Pewter 4wd ISD Yukon. So far I love it. It is cool to see over even other SUVs on the road. It rides nice (for a truck) and is very comfortable. Thx for all the tips!
  • Has anyone updated their onboard computer for the transmission clunk and if so, has there been any improvement?

  • I just returned from a trip to Florida with my 2000 Suburban, 4 X 4, 5.3 L, 4.10 rear with a 6630 lb (dry weight) trailer in tow. With trailer and vehicle loaded, I am sure I was still under the 8800 lb rated towing capacity of the vehicle. I checked the oil before the 1100 mile trip from PA to FL, and it was full. When I arrived in FL, 1100 miles later, it took two quarts of oil to bring the level to full on the dipstick. This was after driving all the way in tow/haul mode in 3rd gear, 60-70 mph, with engine speeds from 2900-3200 rpm.

    On the way home, I consumed slightly more than 1 quart, but limited my cruising speed to 65 mph (2900 rpm). I averaged a little over 10 mpg for the trip down and up I-95.

    Prior to the trip, I was watching the oil level and can extrapolate a consumption of about 1 quart per 3000-4000 non-towing miles, which I thought was acceptable.

    My Suburban has 10,200 miles on it now. I was shocked that I consumed 3 quarts of oil in 2200 miles of towing. However, the vehicle ran fine throughout the trip.

    Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I expect oil consumption to increase dramatically under heavy towing conditions? In any case, it is hard for me to believe that this oil consumption is normal. I assume (hope) that oil consumption will return to the previously observed non-towing rate of 1 quart per 3000-4000 miles. Is this even normal for an almost new vehicle?

    Any comments would be appreciated.

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