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Chevy Tahoe



  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    at or near invoice, and also are getting the $2000 rebate. See dardson's post #1900 as an example.
  • waggywaggy Posts: 6
    factory invoice pricing includes holdback and advertising fee. I just bought a Yukon SLT with running boards, third seat, aluminum wheels and heated seats/ onstar with a msrp of 39968, I paid 300 UNDER factory invoice, plus 2000 rebate, plus tax, title and license....this was the best deal I could find in the Orange County, California area. It seemed as though most GMC dealers in the area had formed an alliance not to sell for less than 500 over invoice. The dealer I ended up at was contacted through or something like that. After initial email from dealer stating the 300 under factory invoice offer, I made an appointment with the designated dealership contact, walked in, no hassle and very matter of fact, Deal done. I have to say I was skeptical about their offer based on postings on this site and was sure I was in for them trying to renegotiate the deal once I got there. Hmmmmm....I hope I got a good deal.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    are a steal right now. GM seems to have made the decision to keep pumping out the trucks and sell them for less money. I bought a modestly equipped Tahoe in February for $28k (big engine, liftgate, and upgrade tires). That's pretty much what I paid for the same Tahoe in '96. A medicore sedan costs 25ish these days. Don't get too lost in the the details. With the rebate and the near invoice pricing, these vehicles are a screaming deal. Better grab one while the deals last, IMHO.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 780
    I bought my 02 Tahoe LS with most of the LT options for invoice plus $300. I kept the $2,002 rebate and also got a $500 loyalty rebate. The details follow:

    MSRP: $37,054

    Invoice: $32,822.52
    (includes holdback $1089.72 + advertising $363.24)
    Mark-up: $300
    Total: $33,122.52
    Less rebate: (2,002)
    Less loyalty: (500)

    Total paid: $30,620.52

    I'm not sure if that means I paid "less than invoice" but I was pleased with the deal. I probably could have gotten the dealer to take off the advertising fee and the extra $300, but the dealer was helping me out by shipping the truck to Hawaii, so I didn't want to push my luck. Anyway, no dealer in Hawaii will sell one of these trucks for less than MSRP. They even try to get more than sticker and keep the rebates themselves!

    By the way, I believe the GM loyalty rebate applies to all current GM owners and leaseholders. The dealer probably won't tell you about it, but the program number is 02-31CJ.
  • wingfoot1wingfoot1 Posts: 2
    Have a 1999 Yukon 4x4 with a vibration. It runs smooth as silk below 65mph, but over it starts a vibration. Example, 10 sec. smooth, 5 sec vibration, over and over again (times are examples). One tech said a transmission bearing. I have had 18 different tires installed over the last month with the same results. With the Michelins it got a little better, but is still there. Planning a 8.000 mile tip in August and really could use a solution. Has anyone out there had the same problem?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Did you have them check the rims? Sometimes, the rims are defective but you'd never know without testing them without the tires mounted.
  • mustangronmustangron Posts: 44
    I've got a new Tahoe Z71 with leather seats. What is the best stuff to use to maintain the seats?
  • onebuconebuc Posts: 28
    Have a 2001 Tahoe LS, with Tow and Traction package. When towing a double axle boat trailer at about 4000#, The trailer starts swaying dangerously at about 58 MPH. It also seems to sway as I let off the accelerator approaching turns, no brakes applied at all. This is happening to a boat/trailer combo that I have had for 5 years, and towed and still tow with no problems with an F150. I have made several trips over 200 miles with the pickup cruising 60-65 MPH and no problems. I still prefer to take the Ford, even on short trips, because of the problem. Is this something the Tahoe could be responsible for? or is it the trailer? my only guess is maybe the distance from the truck tires to the trailer tires are different.
    Any thoughts.
    Thanks A Lot
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,972
    You may want to ask over in the Towing tips for SUVs discussion too.

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    what I like/love about the car
    1. no rattles (love)
    2. respectable gas milage (not great but pretty good)
    3. tons of power (love)
    4. good brakes (finally and TY Chevy)
    5. twenty-five years ago Toyota (etc) gave you lots of stuff...nice surprises....that made the car seem more than you paid for.....the rolls have reversed and now GM gives lots of friendly, no cost adds that make their cars seem like a great value....a bell when the blinker is on too long, an oil change reminder, dc outlets everywhere, lights everywhere including the courtesy lights under the outside you pay dearly for every "nice touch" in a Toyota
    6. great fold-down rear seats where the head-rest fold (great feature)
    7. respectable ride (I owned an Explorer that was just a touch better than a Bronco, well named)
    8. pretty good ergonomic....not up to Ford but right up there)
    9. everyting is done very well....very well thought out front to back
    What I don't like:
    1. the stereo could be better
    2. the seats (cloth) look cheap
    3. it could use a power up as well as the power down driver's window
    4. it could use better tires, not that I've had trouble, but who wants Firestones these days

    Basically, I love the car...plenty of room, plenty of power, and practically an encono-car compared to my old Expedition. You can't go wrong with any version although my very base Tahoe was a heck of a deal @ $28k.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    onebuc: By chance did you hit a curb or deep pothole with the trailer wheels? Or did you possibly have the boat trailer off the end of a concrete boat ramp, in a prop wash hole and have to pull the trailer hard to get it out?

    If so, you might have moved an axle or both, out of alignment. Its relatively easy to check and to correct if its out of alignment. Each axle and leaf spring combo should be fastened to the frame of the trailer with galvanized U-bolt/plate clamps. Each can be loosened and repositioned to ensure they are in alignment. You can check the position by measuring the axle position against the end of each side of the trailer frame to ensure the axles are perpendicular to the frame and even when measured on both sides.

    If you are uncomfortable with the measuring or the bolts are too frozen to loosen, you made need to have the bolts torched and replaced, which might make a trailer repair shop a better bet for getting the trailer wheels into alignment.
  • mustangronmustangron Posts: 44
    I just got a Z71 and it has 150 miles on it. When I start it up you can really hear the engine noise (blub, blub, blub) through the tail pipe. It sounds like a race engine while idling. I had my friends ask what the noise was.

    Is this normal? It doesn't make any thumping, clicking, etc. It is just loud gurgling. I do love the vehicle though.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 780
    Ron: What you're hearing is the glorious melody of an American-made pushrod V-8 burning dinosaurs. Enjoy it before the tree-huggers and conservationists find a way to outlaw it or tax you into a Volkswagen Beetle.
  • ealexand46ealexand46 Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 2002 LT and the vehicle leans slightly to the driver's side when parked. I have checked it on several occasions on apparent level surfaces and the driver's side is about 1 inch lower. I know this may be nitpicking but would it have anything to do with the self-leveling system? Has anyone noticed this on their vehicle and is there a remedy for it? I have checked the tire pressures and all are the same.
  • greenschuzgreenschuz Posts: 15
    So, what is the difference between the Yukon and the Tahoe anyway (besides obvious cosmetic differences on the front end)? Why is the Yukon more expensive than the Tahoe?

    Also, can you get a Yukon with the Z71 pkg?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Truck leaning

    2 possibilities

    1. Full tank of gas (gas tank on drivers side)
    2. Truck was tied down to tight on that side when in transport
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I think your tongue weight may be off or the nose of the trailer is too low/high causing the sway. Try getting a hitch receiver that is higher/lower so that the trailer sits like it does on the Ford. The way the trailer is balanced makes a huge difference in the way it tows.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Have you had the U-joints checked out? If the wheels and tires check out that is the next place to start looking. If the U-Joints are good have the drive shaft and slip yoke balanced. I had this same problem on a van, had the shaft/yoke balanced and the problem was gone. It is extremely important to have the yoke and drive shaft balanced as a unit with good u-joints, so if you question the integrity of the joints either you change them or have the shop that is going to do the balancing change them. The yoke is the part of the drive shaft assembly that slides into the trans, so if you are going to take it out yourself have a drain pan handy, the trans will leak, unless you jack up the rear of the truck, and even then...
  • nota4renota4re Posts: 54
    Well, at least these are two different topics...

    re: Towing: By far the most common cause for the dreaded trailer swaying is a tongue weight problem. Trailer swaying becomes an issue when there is not enough tongue weight. Approx 8-12% of your total trailer weight should be on the tongue. With a lighter trailer (or an incorrectly balanced heavy one, you can verify by lifting yourself or placing on a bathroom scale. If one bathroom scale won't work, you can try two - putting a suitable board across the two and putting the trailer tongue in between. Add the two weights for total tongue weight. Your F150 may have been more forgiving (as pointed out by jgmilberg) because it carries the weight either higher or lower (ball height) and/or becasue the F150's longer wheelbase gives you inherently more stability.

    re: Leaning: My 02 LT leaned too. Remedy was particularly easy. Front suspension is torsion bar and you can adjust the pre-load to raise/lower the front ride height by side. Slide on underneath behind about front edge of the door and you will see large preload bolt perfectly vertical. Wind that puppy up and you will raise the side by screwing it "in". I'd suggest to count the turns in case you want to return to where you were. On mine, fyi, I went three turns up on the driver's side and three turns down on pass side. Wait until you have about 1/2 tank of fuel so - on average - you'll be level.

    Finally, the Sequoia/Tahoe comparisons have been entertaining. We solved that problem. My wife drives a 4WD Seq Limited and I have the Tahoe. Both are very good SUVs.
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