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Chevy Tahoe

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  • califjohncalifjohn Posts: 101
    Thanks for the good feedback on my Tahoe tranny problem! I got some good ideas from you all. I will start looking for a good independent local transmission shop! I am also going to try another Chev Store with TSB 87-71-62 to see if they are more interested in finding the problem than my selling dealer. I will post again here if I solve the problem and tell you what it was. Thanks again for the quick response and excellent assistance!
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    After 18mo. and almost as many miles, it's been a fine experience. GM has been evolving this thing since '95, and they've pretty much got it down. I had a '96 which was pretty darn good. My '02 is not perfect, but it is mighty close, all things considered.
  • jettech1jettech1 Posts: 2
    While in for service for my 2003 Yukon I inquired about the the noticeable air leak type noise coming from my vents. I would say it occurs after I shut the car off. The service manager said it was the air conditioning system bleeding off after use. He mentioned that there is not suppose to be any noise while it is running which I think I am hearing now. I am going back to the dealer to have it examined. Also, if anyone has any info on possible alignment problems on a 2003 Yukon any info would be greatly appreciated. My car depending on road conditions I guess will pull to the left and I have to hold the steering wheel to the right to maintain the car straight. Very annoying when driving long distances. I got it checked for alignment and casters...the car had 2500miles when checked and the alignment and both casters were out of limits. After the fix the car is riding straight but will still pull on occasion. Is it the roads, tires, air pressure? Any advice? Thanks
  • twodalstwodals Posts: 9
    Several of us have experienced water leaks around the ceiling area. I had one coming in from behind the sunvisor and the second all the way in the back by the liftgate. Both occured after torrential rain storms. Here's my dealer's diagnosis in hopes it will help others. He found that the rear of the sunroof was not lifting up completely (so it was flush with the roof) when it was closing. He adjusted it and said that they tested it by leaving it in the car wash with water pouring down for a "long time" and no leaks. I guess the first big downpour will be the acid test for me. My dealer is in a small town and is known for his excellent service department, so I am cautiously optimistic.
  • dawgs4dawgs4 Posts: 5
    Jettech,

    Let me know what you find out on the A/C noise. My 2003 Tahoe does the same thing but makes the noise when the car is idiling and the fan is on low. Very annowing. Dealer said it was freon balancing in the system and there was nothing they could do. My alignment is off as well. pulls to the left.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Dawgs4...You should ask your service dealer what exactly is freon balancing? The constant humming sound is present when the A/C or defrost is on meaning the compressor is engaged. In a closed system such as an A/C system, freon pressure should remain constant. Even when the compressor clutch cycles on and off, I still notice the noise. I still believe the source of the noise is the compressor itself however, I can not prove it. I am curious to know what freon balancing is?
  • bear38bear38 Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Chevy Tahoe 4wd. I too experienced the same "clunking noise" when coming to a stop or slowing down between 1st and 2nd gear. It's almost as if someone is rear-ending you. The fix is simple, there is a special GM lube that needs to be put on splines in the driveline that will correct this. If any other grease is used it will not last. Mine was done at 30,00 miles. I have 80K+ on it now and still no problems. Good luck.....don't let them talk you into a new trany.
  • ezraponezrapon Posts: 348
    I have two gripes on my Yukon's moon roof. It is much-much noiser when the shield is open, it seems to seal ok and is aligned perfectly??? Second, what moron designed the pop up air dam that sounds like a 747 flying overhead. I have 2 other GM cars with the pop up air dam and they makr no noise nor do they have the vent holes in the dam. On the plus side, this is the 1st car I've never had to take back to dealership...go GM!
  • rmoyarmoya Posts: 11
    I am a new '03 Tahoe owner and am very pleased with the truck. I have a question regarding start-up. When I turn the key and release, the engine seems to keep turning over on its own until the truck starts. Most cars I have owned quit turning when I release the key. This question was asked on here a while back but I never saw a response.
    Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    It was explained to me that with a fuel injected vehicles (or any gasoline powered vehicle for that matter), it is important to generate spark when the fuel is pumped to the motor. When you first turn the key, the fuel pump engages approx. 2-3 seconds before firing. You want the engine to turn over until the engine starts. Many people flood their engines with fuel becasue they only "bump" the key not allowing enough time for the engine to fire. I have also noticed this change on many of the new vehicles over the past few years. From what you are describing, I do not believe you have a starting problem however, you can always check with your service dealer.
  • rmoya: Beginning in 2002, GM added a "one-click" start feature on some of their models. In 2003, it trickled down to even more models, including their Full-size SUVs. The idea behind this feature is that the driver just needs to turn the key all the way to the right and immediately release it - the starter will then crank on its own until the engine starts. This is opposed to turning the key and holding it while the starter cranks. Its similar to the system on Mercedes and BMW. In fact, GM first introduced this feature on their Cadillacs with the Northstar. Once you get used to it, it is a pretty neat feature.
  • gogolfgogolf Posts: 2
    I'm wondering if anyone has ever used Onstar to diagnose a problem and if it was accurate.
  • rmoyarmoya Posts: 11
    Unfortunately one feature I really wanted but was unable to get was the homelink. On some newer models I see that the homelink is added to the driver side sunvisor. Wondering if anyone knows whether there is a possibility to swap visors. I would buy one with the homelink, and I assume that since there is power for the light on the mirror, it would work for the homelink as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • anyone done this? any gotchas. just think the wheels/tires look a little silly with them on. may put them back on after new wheels are purchased. thanks
  • I have a 2001 Denali w/ 43k miles and occassionally it will idle roughly once it has warmed up. I looked over on this board and searched the net and saw numerous references to the rough idle on Vortec engines (4.8,5.3,6.0) and there seems to be a number of theories why this occurs. One idea is that the engine runs lean for low emissions at idle and this causes a slightly rough idle when the engine is warm. There has been mentioning of replacing throttle bodies, but this does not seem to remedy the problem in every case. On one board I did find some encouragement from people replacing the factory platinum tipped plugs with a variety of other spark plugs resulting in a smoother idle (better performance). Anyone replaced the plugs on their Vortec have any comments?
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    But in the old days ('70's) when people could and did work on their own cars we could adjust the timing. You could set it to run smooth or kick it back a notch or two for better economy which made the idle rough(er).
  • rmoyarmoya Posts: 11
    Five,
    Just in case you might be interested, please let me know if you want to sell those wheel flares. I like them on my ride, but was unable to find a Tahoe with that option here in FL. Let me know if youre interested.
    Thanks
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Rather than replacing the entire throttle body which is probably not necessary, sometimes the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor/Switch) becomes defective or even dirty. This is a common cause for the rough idleing sypmtons you are describing. Unless a spark plug is fouled, this is most likely not the problem.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Please, no buying and selling on the Town Hall boards. Thanks.

    tidester, host
  • Anybody else have the same problem as this?

    The default base and treble levels are around 25%....when i adjust them to desired level (around 60%) but then change to another pre-set channel, it has defaulted back to the original factory/OEM settings......i am constantly having to adjust the base/treble levels and the manual doesn't seem to explain how program this where it will stay where i want......
  • I'll take a look at the TPS and see if it is just outputting variable resistance values. If so, I'll run it through the range and at idle to see if the values fluctuate indicating a faulty sensor.
  • Stationkeeper reset your station, WITH the treble and bass levels where you want them, then resave the station to that button#. That cured mine, from the same problem If you're talking the am and fm stations, that fixed mine
  • kb9jdykb9jdy Posts: 1
    My 1998 Yukon developed a hard shift "clunk" between first and second gears after stopping at a light/sign. A friend tipped me to the solution he used and it worked. All that was needed was a complete change of fluid in the transfer case. The problem has not returned.
  • richphillips:

    many thanks....worked like a charm. I initially contacted my GMC dealer who said essentially that "those Bose systems are a little strange, they probably don't want you to mess with the bass and treble settings."

    i'll call them and let them know in case a customer calls them with the same question.
  • michy2michy2 Posts: 6
    I have posted previously about this problem as I am experiencing the same thing and have had the Yukon into the dealer twice. The second time, heavy weights were attached to the exhaust system to "dampen" the noise and vibration. Technical support at GM has commented to the Service Dept. that many Yukons experience this problem (extra load on the engine with A/C on/compressor running) causes excessive vibration in the exhaust system) and there is no real fix. The dampeners, however, somewhat improve the problem but do not fix it entirely. I am currently waiting for an arbitration date of Aug. 14 to have GM buy back this vehicle - others who have posted here and had the same problem have had their vehicles bought back. Maybe your low droning noise/vibration are not too bad and acceptable to you.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Can you please briefly describe the process if I want to have GM buy back my new tahoe. I am looking for contact information/departments etc. Any help or advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Information on arbitration is in the back of either your ownter's manual or warranty information booklet. Other than that process, you can sue under your state lemon law, which requires attorneys, etc.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    The Better Business Bureau has a process specifically for vehicle manufacturers and GM has an agreement with them to do the arbitrations. You can get their number from any dealership - or probably from their web site.

    There are times when it is better to deal directly with the manufacturer than to start through the arbitration process. Once you have started through the arbitration, the manufacturer will not deal with you directly.

    Many state's lemon laws require you to pursue the administrative remedy (i.e. arbitration process) before proceeding with a lawsuit. In any event, the standards followed during the arbitration process are based on the applicable state's lemon law. So, be very familiar with your state's lemon law even if you are engaged in arbitration.

    One more thing. Although the arbitrators are supposed to be neutral, and they technically are, don't think that they are going to go to bat for you. In my experience, they narrowly interpret the law in favor of the manufacturer and really don't "arbitrate" anything. They simply act as the middle man for passing your demands through to the manufacturer (which demands will likely be summarily denied).

    Although you have to take this with a grain of salt (after all - I am an attorney), I think the public should quit accepting the bad deals that they get through these arbitration proceedings and start pressing the manufacturers by filing suit. In my experience, the manufacturers get away with murder simply because the customer realizes that the lawsuit will be expensive and that there are no guarantees (you can't blame a client for being rational). However, as long as the public never shows any willingness to fully pursue their rights, manufacturers are not going to have much incentive to treat their customers fairly.

    Having said that, I don't want to imply that the manufacturer is always the bad guy. While I have not yet experienced a manufacturer who awarded its customer what I believed was a full recovery, I have heard that it has happened elsewhere!!!

    I'll right - I'll get off my soap box so that we can continue discussing trucks.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    About 10 years ago, my father sued Dodge/Chrysler due to unresolved problems with a new truck he purchased. The process, start to finish took probably 6-8 months. So you can see it is not a quick process.

    If you truly have a problem, stick to your guns as it may take a while.
  • dawgs4dawgs4 Posts: 5
    Michy2,

    The humming noise is low in my 2003 Tahoe and thus does not bother me. It is the "air leak" Noise at idle that drives me crazy. Although, every Tahoe I have been in since does the same thing. Let me know how your case turns out....

    Dawgs4
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