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Chevy Tahoe

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  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Husky makes moulded mud guards for your truck as well. See my post above with links.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    I've seen 2000 models going for $17k to $23k. Some are even higher. Mileage seems to be big price difference. 01 models seem to be $20k to $26k.
    I just recently bought a used 03. New 03 models with all the discounts were about $32k on up. I imagine the 04 models are $36k on up....until all the 03s are gone.
  • Just bought my '04 Tahoe and thought I would share the numbers. List $45,995 with top LT pkg plus Safe & Secure that includes Stabilitrack and AWD for $1100. Rear DVD aprox. $1295. Seventeen inch aluminum wheels. List $45,995, less $5,000 discount, less $2,500 rebate, less $750 fuel tank cert. from a '99 I owned. Less $500 gm card dollars. So $45,995 down by $8,750 to selling price of $37,245. Still a lot of money. So far a nice truck but I am wondering what the AWD will cost me in gas mileage vs. the AutoTrack system. I am presuming the AWD is pulling all four wheels all the time kind of like the Astro van AWD systems.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    You should be able to disable the AWD system by putting the transfer case into 2WD.

    If the roads become slick or you go off-roading, then you can enable the AWD or just 4WD.

    The transfer case should have 4 settings:
    2WD, AUTO 4WD, 4 HI & 4 LO
  • My Tahoe has Stabilitrak so there are two buttons. Basically the top buttong is 4X4 full time and the bottom button is 4X4 low range. I assume the 4X4 high uses a viscous clutch like the AWD Astro van as there are no switches or settings on that vehicle. What I do not know is if the front end "kicks in" like when the Autotrack system is in the "auto" setting or if the front and rear are pulling all the time.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Assuming it's the same as the Yukon Denali AWD system, it's driving both axles constantly. I think it's something like 60% rear, 40% front but I'm not positive. I imagine the stability program can adjust power as suited based on it's "big brother" decisions. With the autotrac, it can only move power if there's slippage so that wouldn't help the stability program control much.
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    Just my 2 cents, but don't spend the extra cash on the AWD. Besides worse gas mileage, you also have wear that exceeds the part time system, plus you will never be able to turn off the 4x4 to have 'fun' (read - do donuts). I have the auto trak and it has been flawless. It engages undetected and automatically.
  • ezraponezrapon Posts: 348
    The one time you need AWD might make it worth the extra cash. What price for peace of mind? I wouldn't drive one of these top heavy bad boys without stabilitrack and AWD. Too many rapid road changes here in Missouri. I get over 16 mpg with my 6.0 Denali, running all 4 wheels. That's not a lot to brag about. The 6.0 helps suck extra gas, but the extra ponies are a hoot.
  • Here is my take ... correct me if I'm wrong. Stabilitrak ("antiskid") is GM's answer to the stability issues which have been in the news a lot regarding SUVs (mainly rollovers). It was first introduced in the Cadillac Escalade only. Now available in the Yukon (and maybe the Tahoe), it works with AWD systems only. It controls: 1) Amount of traction at all wheels, 2) Brake pressure at left/right front wheels, 3) Engine speed. This makes it more difficult to lose control/get into a potential rollover situation.

    Autotrac only controls traction to the front wheels ... fully engaged or disengaged.

    It seems you have to choose between Stabilitrak with AWD or Autotrac with 2/4WD.
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    Another thing to keep in mind is that with the AWD you will only ever have power to a single fron and a single rear wheel. Stabilitrak can fool the system somewhat by appliying the brakes as needed but you never have true power to more than 2 wheels.

    With the Autotrack + the G80 option (Eaton Rear Locker) on the other hand, in low-traction situations, you have power to a single front wheel and both rear wheels, thus you are driving 3 wheels rather than 2.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    can apply each brake individually to correct the path of a vehicle from the current path to the intended path based on the steering wheel angle, a yaw sensor and a few other sensors. I have personally tested Ford's version of the product driving through cones on a wet test track (once with the system on, once with it off). All I can say is WOW. It is amazing what this system can do for accident avoidance. Well worth the $500 option price on my Lincoln LS.

    This has nothing to do with 2 WD va 4 WD. Autotrac might be another name for the same thing, I am not sure. GM uses multiple names for the system, depending on which division sells it. Stabilitrac was originally Cadillac only, but I think the name is now being used by other divisions. Ford calls it AdvanceTrac. What manufacturer is it from?
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I agree on the price of new Tahoes/Yukons!

    I have a 2000 Yukon SLE 2WD, I just turned over 70K miles. It's had some minor issues, nothing major. Still runs strong and I keep it looking brand new.

    But the cost of new ones has me seriously considering other vehicles! The problem is; my vehicles of choice tend to be plauged with service issues! I'm leaning towards a used Mercedes ML320 or ML430, or a Land Rover Discovery...none of which are exactly known for being reliable and dependable! That leaves the Toyota Land Cruiser, but I just can't bring myself to pay $35K for a USED one!

    Heck, maybe I'll just keep the Yukon till the wheels fall off! No doubt in my mind that with my continued careful maintenance, I should get 175-200K miles with no problem.
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    I hope you are kidding when you say that you are considering a used ML. We just bought a new Tahoe to replace our ML 430, which has been the worst car I have ever owned. You just reminded me that I have to call the dealer because the check engine light just came on, and I am not kidding. I think this will be at least the 5th time we've had it in since we bought it. Stay away.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,611
    In the Large SUV Under $45,000 category:

    Edmunds.com Announces Editors' Most Wanted Awards for 2004 Model Year (Yahoo news)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • wdogwdog Posts: 21
    Would love to get a Tahoe with a factory installed Nav sys. Systems are available for TB and Yukon Denali. That GMC has the bigger engine and AWD, not 4W Hi, Lo, etc., which I'd prefer. Test drove a Z71 and loved the ride. Does anyone know if the Denali Nav could be ordered and installed in a Tahoe, or chances of Chevy offering it for the Tahoe later this year?

    Pioneer and Alpine offer such systems, but available space on dash, warranty issues, etc., seem to make waiting more appealing. Voice responses and a big clear screen make an factory sys such as those from Lexus and even Honda's Accord seem great. Have put off a purchase till I find an SUV I like that offers a nav sys. I got Navigator in '98, but was disappointed after testing their recent models. Pathfinder Armada offers Nav if you go for the sunroof, something I don't want. Besides, interior of Amarda with leather seems way inferior to the Tahoe.
  • chief29chief29 Posts: 14
    My Yukon has few months before the warranty runs out. No major problems, but I have a couple of small items that I want to get taken care of, like a piece of loose exterior trim and a heated mirror that don't work. Someone also suggested that I ask for all software to be updated to the latest version. I have never heard of this before, is this a reasonable request? I like to know what I am talking about so I don't seem like an idiot when I speak to the service advisor.
  • if you have read my previous posts i am the one with the exhaust ping, XM radio "no signal" and A/C vent problems. well the muffler and tailpipe were replaced yesterday and eureka, no ping. 1 down 3 to go. PLEASE do this test for me... put your A/C in manual mode and put the dash vents open only. then turn off your A/C with the "O" button. turn it back on using the fan adjusted. tell me the results. does it go back to dash... BTW, my XM is working much better since they replaced the ANT and 2 cables. but not 100%. thanks for your help....
  • GMC service installed two 8 lb weights on my exhaust system and the problem virtually disappeared. This was recommended BY GMC and is a kit that resolves the problem.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    When I had a Toyota everything that was wrong with the car was considered "normal". The few problems I've had with my Tahoe have been acknowledged by the dealer and fixed. I suppose Chevy could raise their reliability ratings by pretending their problems are just a normal part of the car. Love my Tahoe and appreciate GM's attitude.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    rough idle fix? I have had that condition on all of the 4.8 and 5.3 engines I have had in the past 3 years. 8 lbs sounds like a lot of weight - could it have been 8 ozs? Just curious.
    My new 2004 Yukon 5.3 has the same rough idle, only it occurs even with the A/C off, but still in drive. Thanks.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    You're right about the used Mercedes M class; at least from what I've read. There seem to be a healthy number of them that are service nightmares.

    Supposedly the Land Rover Disco's and Range Rovers are just as bad. You can get a good one; but there's a decent chance of getting one that spends half of its time on the lift at the dealership.

    I read a lot of good stuff about the Toyota Land Cruiser...but they are expensive. I look at the DC-Metro area papers, and even the 2000 models are still running upper 20's to about 30K. My brand-new 2000 Yukon was only 31K (2wd).

    I guess I'm starting to get the "itch" for another new vehicle. My Yukon has been very reliable and trouble-free; and it's a good looking truck. I just don't want to replace it with something that's going to be a hassle.
  • 4burb4burb Posts: 55
    First, with all the discussion of the ride height in front not being adjusted I would like to know the following. I was wondering why the back of some burbs/tahoes sit higher than the front and some are level, not talking about those with autoride. Specifically, my friends 03 LT 2WD is level and my 02 LT 4WD sits higher in the back. Dealership told me the difference was 2WD vs 4WD but I'm sure I have seen both 2WD and 4WD burbs/tahoes, some that are level and some that sit higher in back. Don't all LTs w/o autoride have the same "premium" suspension?
    Second, my 02 LT 4WD has the factory fender flares. I was thinking of putting the molded Husky splash guards on it and wanted to know if anyone has done this? How hard was it and do you like them?
    Thanks for all the great info and conversations.
  • From my observations, most 2wds sit near level. Most 4x4s sit with the rear much higher. On the other chat rooms I frequent, most 4x4 owners refer to their trucks as 'grazing' because the front end sits so low. GM does this for numerous reasons, safety, better visiblity, more areodynamic. I raised my front end of my 02 Z71 'hoe about 1.5" inches by cranking the torsion bars.
  • cmr239cmr239 Posts: 12
    4burb,
    I can only speak pretaining to 2000 models (things may have changed for 02 or 03), but my Yukon has the Z71 suspension while my Dad's Tahoe has the self leveling shocks(NOT Autoride). Both y2k's, both 4wd. Dad's Tahoe is only about an inch higher, back to front. Mine is about another inch and a half more elevated in the rear, not counting the tire size difference.(Z71's have about an inch taller tire). I did some measuring under my Yukon and decided I would need to "crank the bars" two and a half inches to level the truck. This could be difference you are seeing on some trucks.
  • Hi all, new to the forum. I have an '02 Tahoe 4dr, 4wd with autoride. The parking/ebrake was not engaging. when I crawled under to adjust it, it looks as though it is already at the tightest setting. I dont see a way to adjust the cables back at the caliper/rotor. any suggestions?

    thanks!
    Jim
  • The rear is usually higher for the simple reason that (as a pick-up ) when you load it ( up to the maximun weight), most of this weight is toward the back of the truck.

    As for torsion bars, using them either to lower or raise the front is a BAD idea.
    Why?
    Very simply because they are designed to be adjusted in the middle of the front suspension travel and their "resistance" or how many #s you need to twist them is not linear.

    Let's say that you have a total of 8" front travel, 4" up (rebound) and 4" down (compression).
    If you crank the front up by 2", now not only you only have 2" of Up/rebound left but the front suspension is going to be a lot stiffer ( since the torsion bar don't have a linear resistance).

    Lowering it by 2" will create the exact opposite, a softer ride with 2"less dow/compression travel.

    Obviously,suspension travel is NOT limited by springs and/or torsion bars but by mechanical/hardware design ( bump stop for example on compression)
  • Lucnoel, thanks for the post. I too was thinking that this wasn't a good thing. BUT, your explanation doesn't tell us why aside from the ride now being stiffer or softer with less wheel travel. This isn't going to change anyone's mind nor the bit about nonlinearity of adjustment. Tell us why this is a screwball idea worthy only of pimple faced teenaged boys, not serious car nuts. In other words, please elaborate.
  • Here's my take. First, pretty much all Chevy trucks have a front end that slopes down. This is done for safety reasons, visibility, and even better aerodynamics. To level the truck, you can either get a lowring kit for the rear and bring it down about 2", or if raise the front end by twisting the tbars. I just wnat to share a post from a very knowledgeable source, I beleive he has been a chevy tech for years, and I believe him when he says twisting the tbars is not really a bad thing.

    "To Answer:

    I have had 3 trucks from '00 to '02 with this new "revised" front suspension... The primary parts that are stressed when "cranking" the torsion bars, or should I say increasing the pre-load on the torsion bars, are the Lower Ball joints, and the Half-Shafts...

    The older body style Chevys were notorious for the above parts failing pre-maturely when cranking the torsion bars... The new trucks have "better" control arm geometry, and this is less of a concern, but a concern nonetheless!

    Another thing that happens that hardly anyone thinks of when cranking the torsion bars is, suspension down travel... The factory ride height is about 60/40 on the front right now... This means out of the 100% range of movement of the front suspension, the distance available is 60% downward, 40% upward... If you have the bars cranked up, this ratio goes the other way... So, if you go over a large enough dip, or have an emergency stop, the truck re-bounding into the air CAN reach it's downward limit, and pull a shock apart, or destroy the valving inside of itself...

    As far as the new truck's half shafts, cranking the factory keys shouldn't increase the shaft angles to the point of being hurtful... Unless you are off road, and have that tire in the air, and crank the wheel all the way to one side, and apply power... This even in stock torsion bar setting can hurt a CV boot/joint ...

    I put 40,000 miles on my 2000 Silverado Z71 Xtra Cab with cranked torsion bars, and had no pre-mature wear or failures... BUT, I did grease the front end every 5,000 miles ... Personally, I would stay away from the Aftermarket or Ford Keys ... You're asking for trouble ... The temptation is there due to the cost factor, but if you want something for nothing, you will probably pay later ... The guys that sell these things TELL YOU it's ok, but are they gonna repair your truck for you if it's not? ... Just trust me on this one...

    I have a good friend who is Shop Foreman of a Chev Dealership, and also he's been a Driveline Specialist on GM trucks for 17 years... He told me when I wanted to crank my torsion bars up, to leave 2 threads showing on the adjustment bolts MAXIMUM AND NO HIGHER !!!

    You will get about 1-1.5 inches out of that much ... Make sure you lift the truck before adjusting the bolts, because it's a lot of stress on them to turn the torsion bars loaded ... Try to keep your side to side adjustment the same ... Do this on level ground only to assure good measurement ... Once you make an adjustment, measure from the ground to the center of the wheel well in a straight vertical line ... I usually draw an imaginary line through the center of the wheel, and measure above and below that point ... After making an adjustment to both sides, drive truck around the block, and park in same place... Measure, and try to keep both sides the same... This might require different adjustments on either side, but not excessive... Have a full tank of gas, and if you like, have a person sit in driver's seat ...

    Finally, you will have to re-align the truck... THIS IS A FOR SURE THING, DON'T DRIVE TOO LONG !!! ... CAMBER WILL BE OFF, ALONG WITH TOE A LITTLE BIT ... And depending on your Caster setting from factory, it might need to be nudged too ... I have found that some of our AV's actually come from the factory with NEGATIVE CAMBER, I think for comfort reasons... At this point, if you have NEGATIVE CAMBER, it's a good thing to turn up the torsion bars a little...

    The final result will be about a 20-30% harsher ride than what you have now, and a little more stress on the front suspension, that might wear your parts out a little faster, but it's probably a minimal concern... The downtravel issue is a concern, but if you're not attempting to get airborne or nearly airborne, then cool... Just be aware of the issue when you decide to hit railroad tracks at 80 MPH ...

    11H "
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    I have a '97 Tahoe that has developed a humming noise that appears to be in the electrical system.
    It sounds like a fan or motor running and seems to come from the dash, may not though. It only does this when the engine is running. You can cause it to stop for a second by engaging something that draws a lot of current, such as the rear window defogger or emergence flashers. When you disconnect the alternator it will also stop. I have had two new batteries in the last year, they either start leaking or get a budge in the side and go dead. The last time the truck just quite while driving, replaced the battery and runs fine.Sears says there is a constance drain on the battery, the dealership says not that it is just bad battieries.

    The following parts have been replaced;

    Alternator

    Belt Tensioner

    Battery

    The following things have been eliminated as a cause;

    Radio fan, radio was taken out and disconnected

    Seat unplugged

    Heater blower fuse taken out

    Exhauset system checked

    Various relays unpluged

    Anyone have an idea what could cause this problem?

    Thanks
  • I've been a loyal Ford customer for over 20 years. After a lot of teasing from my friends, I decided to try a GM product. I bought my brand new 2003 Tahoe in June this year and from day one the CD/Cassette player has had a problem. It would play the CD tracks just fine for about 15 to 25 minutes, depending on how loud I set the volume. Then it stops playing the CD and switches to radio or it remains silent with the display still showing the last track played. Sometimes it would resume playing the CD track on which it stopped then cut off again after about three or four minutes. Sometimes its power supply would just go completely for about one second then come back on with the clock display showing 12:00 am and the CD back to track #1. On two occasions it completely "locked up"; it would not play or eject the CD nor would it switch to radio mode. On both occasions I had to go under the hood and remove then replace the 15A fuse in the big black box, then press the eject button to get the CD out. I've tried using brand new CDs right off the store shelf as well as some I "burned" on my PC; the same problems continue, although these are the same CDs I play over and over without any problems in my friend's Ford Crown Vic. I also noticed that on every occasion, if I switch the unit off completely and leave it alone for about an hour it would play OK, but then start the same malfunctioning all over again. This led me to believe that the problem is caused by overheating to which some sort of protective circuit breaking device is responding, especially since the unit does not have a fan built in or attached to it. All it has attached on one side is a heat absorbing metal plate known as a "heat sink". I took the vehicle back to the dealer twice. On the second occasion they replaced the entire unit but the same problems still continues. They told me that they had put in a brand new unit but I later found out that it is a "remanufactured" unit instead. I've also talked to a few Chevy owners of pickups and SUVs and found that many of them have or have had identical problems with theirs. I also found similar postings on other websites. I then wrote to Delphi-Delco, the manufacturer of the unit. They replied that they do not deal directly with vehicle owners and that I should return it once again to the dealer. I happen to be a lover of music and as you can guess I'm pretty p****d by now. However, since everything is still under warranty I don't seem to have much choice other than letting them have a go at it once more.
     Is there anyone here who can offer any suggestions or solutions about this?
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