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Chevy Tahoe



  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    off extended warranties, and finance and insurance kickbacks (er commisions?).
  • Yes, Davids1, Sebring95, and Txyank1 are right. Dealers don't live off warranty nor off the "invoice plus $200 plus the holdback" deals we hear about. When you read the industry trade mags, every department in a dealership is considered a profit center and each department's contribution is measured. Many other departments such as F & I ("Finance and Insurance" which includes extended warrantys, GAP insurance, disability insurance, rust proofing, etc. etc.) earn a higher profit than new car sales. (I'll bet that a lot of these "invoice plus $200 sales" that people think they got, really become home runs after the buyer gets through with the F & I guy.)

    I've always wondered if the new car showroom wasn't there just to generate the down the line revenues in F & I, parts, service, the body shop , and used cars. Kind of like the razor and the razor blade idea: sell the razor at "cost" (however measured) to build the population of razors out there and then cream them on replacement blades.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    "I've always wondered if the new car showroom wasn't there just to generate the down the line revenues in F & I, parts, service, the body shop , and used cars. Kind of like the razor and the razor blade idea: sell the razor at "cost" (however measured) to build the population of razors out there and then cream them on replacement blades. "
    The ink cartridges cost more than the printers!
  • Ok, I hope you all can bear with me on this question. My boss has a 2003 Tahoe. She was just asking me about a loud noise her vehicle makes about every 5th time you get in and drive off. She said there is a loud clicking noise coming from the right front. She thought the wheel was going to fall off or something. No vibrations but its loud enough for people on the sidewalk to hear and they seem to be concerned. She said the transmission has been doing odd things to. I know this is not much info but if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears.

  • gmfan007gmfan007 Posts: 77
    This sounds like a tuff one. If it happens sporadically, it will be hard to demo it for the dealer. You didn't mention if it is a 2, 4 or all wheel drive. If it is 4 wheel drive, I assume she is keeping it in 2 Hi except on snow or ice. Maybe a front hub or axle needs lube. A transmission "doing odd things" doesn't tell us much. I am no mechanic, but I think I would get it to the dealer ASAP. It sounds serious, or potentially so.
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    If the noise only happens at startup, and lasts for maybe 30 seconds, and soundsl ike it is coming from the engine, it is most likely the dreaded GM piston slap. Unfortunately, there is no known fix at this time, as GM puts it. This is a common occurance with the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0s. If it sounds like a diesel right at startup then this is most likely the issue. And when it does happen, it can be very loud. GM says it does not affect the performance or the life of the engine. But in the consumer world, it really affects the resale of the truck.

    Also, Tahoe's do not come in all wheel drive, just the Yukons and Escalades...
  • chile96chile96 Posts: 330
    Hi all. I currently own a 99 yukon and am looking for a replacement but was only considering luxury, i.e. german, until I saw the weekend paper. I was reading several dealers quoting anywhere from 9-10.5K off MSRP(including 3K cash back of course!) for models w/ MSRP roughly in mid to high 30K's. I don't really want to call/visit a dealer to inquire and have to deal w/ unrelenting sales calls so I thought I'd gather info here. Can I expect these same discounts for the 4WD LT's that have MSRP well into the 40K's? Also, should I even go for more money off than they are quoting? BTW, I'm in Houston.

    Thanks for the help
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    dealers in your city and state. Check GM Buypower and get a VIN number for a vehicle you have in mind and ask them what their delivered price is. Also, ask them to give you a guess on the value of your trade. I find that most dealers have internet/fleet salesmen who are used to doing this, and usually will email rather than call you. Once you have a list of dealers and prices you can play one dealer off against the other. One tip, don't make the actual purchase until the last few days of the month - dealers want to improve their monthly sales figures so you should get a better price then. You can get the big discounts you see, just compare the amount of money offered for your trade, if you have one. Good luck.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Are you talking German cars or SUV's? If you don't need a big ute then by all means who cares if the prices are good, get a nice luxo car. I have both (audi A6 and a Tahoe) and I can't fathom picking a full-size ute over a German car if I didn't have a use for it. If you're springing for a german ute (M or G class are about the only choices) I'd probably go for a Tahoe/Yukon over them. M-class does nothing for me, and G-class is a bit overboard.

    As for price, you should be able to get a good deal on anything right now. Rebates/incentives are nice but they just kill the resale value right off the start.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    You could look at the Denali, Escalade, or Navigator if you are looking for luxury. The are all offering very good incentives.
  • bhobho Posts: 4
    The dealers are giving pretty good discounts now. I just bought a Z71 fully loaded (MSRP $44.5K) and got it for $35.5K which included the $3K rebate. This was on April 30 the last day of the month which might have made a difference. There was some question whether GM would extend the rebate but it looks as though it will be extended until June.
  • dave5319dave5319 Posts: 51
    Someone on another un-named post had complained about the same noise on the pass side it turned out to be a bad CAT, it was replaced and problem solved.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Posts: 77
    Please excuse my stupidity, Dave. My mind is going I guess. What is a CAT? And, don't tell me it's a fuzzy animal with four legs and a tail.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    catalytic converter?
  • califjohncalifjohn Posts: 101
    just stopped in the middle of a cloudburst yesterday. I was driving on I-5 right through a rain squall and they just stopped in the middle of a wipe. Fortunately it was still daylight and the end of the squall was visible just ahead so I was able to get through it OK. After cycling the switch several times the wipers started up again and seem to be working OK. I wonder of anyone else has had a problem with the wipers stopping in their Tahoe/Sub and if so what it took to fix it. I am thinking new switch but it might have been circuit gremlins too. Any help would be appreciated!
  • tinpushertinpusher Posts: 3
    I bought this truck used with two key fobs, neither of them were labeled 1 or 2. Now from what I've read starting in 02 GM produced easy in/out seats. My question is did they do this in 01 and if so how do I program the memory seat to do this? Thank's for the help.
  • tinpushertinpusher Posts: 3
    All of the people I know that own a GM truck have RAP (Retained accessory power) in their truck.
    I know my SUV has it but someone has turned it off(bought used). Anyone know how I turn it back on?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I don't think there is a way to turn it off. Are you sure all of your doors are completely closed (including ligtgate and glass)? This would cause it to not work properly.
  • chile96chile96 Posts: 330
    My '99 Yukon had the samething happen. As time wore one, it occurred more frequently and soon I couldn't control the speed - would go fast even if on intermitent. Dealer replaced the wiper module and it has been fine ever since. Mine was covered under the GMPP so I don't know how much it costs. My advice would be to fix it sooner than later and have it go out at a dreadful time. Hope this helps.

  • tinpushertinpusher Posts: 3
    My 01 yukon 5.3 just started stalling out on me.
    It happens when it has sat overnight. I'll get it to turn over than the rpm's will drop right back down till the engine stops. The idle is smooth right till it stalls. When attempting to re start it will start right back up then do the same thing. The only way I keep this from happening is when I rev the engine, then put the truck into gear and drive for a while. Any thoughts???
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