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Chevy Tahoe

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  • Also, does anyone have an opinion of the "premium smooth ride" v. the "autoride suspension package"? Thanks.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I believe the wheelbase is stil 117.5" (same as Reg Cab SWB pickup).
  • I'm pretty sure that only the lift-gate tailgate is offered on the new ones. My 97 had the swinging doors, and I thought they stopped making them in the '02 redesign but I suppose it could have been an option. I've just never seen one.

    I test drove the premium suspension but obviously have more experience with the auto-ride suspension being that I have close to 40 miles under my belt. :P But from what I have read about it, some say they can't tell the difference and some say they can. I think I've felt the auto ride kick in when I was turning onto a ramp. It seemed to settle the car down when it got to the awkward point where wheels were at different levels. Normally with my old Tahoe, I'd have rocked back and fourth a bit in that situation. But this kept it all smoooooth. For me, I really wanted anything that would enhance the riding behavior of the beast.

    About gas, I had no illusions to how much gas they eat. It is an improvement from my guzzling 97 in terms of mileage. That being said, 10mpg to 14mpg in the city ain't that much of a step forward. But I take the train to work and only drive to the metra station, so I limit my gas spending that way. Still I feel a pain in my wallet when I see them change the gas price signs to over $3 a gallon.
  • I think you will find it delivers respectable milage for such a large vehicle. I've had my 2wd 04 LS for 19 months and consistently get 15+ MPG around town. I've had 2 problems. One was a rumbling exhaust that intruded into the cabin. They knew about it and fixed it with exhaust dampers first try. Other was a steering noise (pop in a slow left hand turn) that took 3 visits to fix. Neither made me dislike the vehicle. It remains quiet as the day I bought it, and still feels new. It is an amazingly well done vehicle. I had a '96 that was nothing like as good as my '04. Hope you enjoy yours.
  • Thanks for your thoughtful reply. My thinking on the auto ride is the same: I want anything that will enhance riding behavior or handling. I still have anxiety over the $3+ gasoline I'm seeing. The rational part of my brain keeps saying that the average mpg on the Tahoe won't be much worse that what I'm currently driving, or anything else I could buy that I could fit in comfortably. I've tried the Accord (now offered in a hybrid) - I just don't fit. I'm reluctant to buy anything that isn't comfortable. I don't want to wait for a hybrid Tahoe. If it were available now, it wouldn't make financial sense to choose it, even if gas were $5 a gallon. Any additional thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • aacukaacuk Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 2dr LT with tailgate and love it.
    I have heard the expression for the two variations as - 2 rear doors called "barn doors" and the drop tailgate as "clamshell".
    With the barndoors you have a blind spot in the rearview mirror that I found to be annoying whereas with the clamshell you get an uninterrupted view.
    I believe that it is an option when ordering the truck.
  • hi! my headlights are coming on in the park light spot and no head lights when i switch it to where they are to turn on. my brights are not coming on at all. everything like park lights,blinkers,daytime running lights etc... are working. what do i need to do? please help!
  • Trust the rational part of your brain. No car maker has figured out how to overcome the laws of physics. Best I can sift from their threads, relatively powerful 4400lb minivans maybe get 10-15% better milage around town and a bit more on the highway due to the lower profile. At $3 a gallon and 12k miles a year, your talking +/- a dollar a day. I suppose the money could amount to some huge figure over a lifetime, but you could offset it by skipping a 7/11 coffee on the way to work or a $1.25 soft drink on the way home.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    In most cases, the swing-up door is included with the 3rd row option. Not sure why, but you can't get 3rd row with double doors. Otherwise, the swing-up was an option. The swing-up door is my preference, it's a bit high to reach if you're short but also provides a good cover from the weather when loading. My wife is fairly short, but didn't have too much trouble getting the door down.
  • In my search for a 2005 Tahoe with the options I want, I'm finding several with the option of the 3.73 rear axle ration. I seem to remember from my early days lusting after 426 Hemies (Hemis? Hemes?) and the like that the higher the number the faster off the line and the slower at the top end. In reviewing posts concerning towing capacity, the concensus seems to be that the 3.73 is essential to maximize towing capacity. I guess I'm more interested in gas mileage than towing capacity, which leads me to this question: if I opt for the 3.73, will my gas mileage be worse (lower?) than with the standard 3.23 ratio? Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Does anyone know why Edmunds lists the gas mileage of the 2005 Tahoe as 16/20 and the 2006 Tahoe gas mileage as 15/19? Thanks.
  • I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe. I was recently trouble-shooting a problem with my wiring to my trailer (the problem I was trouble-shooting was all of the lights on the trailer were dead). I tracked the resolution to this problem being a corroded ground terminal in the flat 4 prong trailer adaptor. After fixing this, all the trailer lights worked fine, except the blinkers.

    When I unplugged the trailer lights, to see if something in the trailer was causing the blinkers to not work, now even the blinker lights on the Tahoe were not working (previously they were).

    So, then brake, hazard, traveling lights all work fine. Just not the blinkers. I don't hear anything when I turn on either of the blinkers. I checked all the fuses I could find. All ok.

    Did I most likely jar a wire loose when I was replacing the 4 prong trailer wire on my Tahoe? Any suggestions as to what to look at?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Paul
  • I am looking for web sites of fellow owners that show some of their modifications they have made. I have a 2002 Tahoe and I am looking for ideals on how to fix mine up. I am looking for home pages that people have posted PICS to show the modifications after they have been made. Any help or advice anyone can give me in this area is greatly appreciated.
  • I have an 04 2wd with the 5.3V8 and standard axle. I had an 02 2wd with the 5.3V8 and the $100 upgrade axle (3.73 I think). I'm religious about checking my milage. The 02 mostly got mid 14's+, city. Once in a while it would make 15. My 04 (19 months) mostly gets mid 15's- and an occasional 16 around town. Maybe they've tweaked the engine but the only apparent difference to me is the axle. I've concluded you can squeeze an extra mile per gallon from the standard axle. (For the record, I drive conservatively to achieve my numbers.) Not huge but if you don't tow, why not opt for nearly 10% better milage.
  • Hi: I recently purchases an '05 2WD Tahoe. I love the vehicle but in retrospect I probably should have bought a 4WD version as I have a rather long and snowy driveway in the winter.
    My previous '01 Silverado had this and it was never stuck. I was considering upgrading the rear differential to the locking version. This is apparently possible although expensive (about $1K is the dealer estimate).
    Has anyone done this? Any thoughts about it's feasibility, practicality and value?
    Thanks...
    Johnsay
  • I would agree that you will be able to get 1 or so mpg better with a 3.23 vs. a 3.73. I have an 04 Z71 with the 3.73. I wanted this for towing and do tow a trailer which grosses at 6000 lbs. The 3.73 is sufficient, even up hills, for my trailer. If you are not towing and are concerned about $3/gallon gasoline, you might consider the extra 1 mpg. Remeber, at $3/gallon, that's $78/tank. It adds up quickly.
  • My 2005 Tahoe LT with the nav system doesn't seem to like my home-recorded cd's. It plays original cds without a problem, but the copies skip constantly. I tried the same cd's in my wife's 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix, and they played flawlessly. Has anyone experienced a similar problem?
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    My mother-in-law is not able to go in reverse. She put her Tahoe in reverse and heard a loud clunk. She is still able to use the forward gears, but thats it. A simliar issue occured about 1 yesr ago and it was covered under warranty. Since then her warranty has expired. She is at around 45K miles. What is the possiblity Chevrolet will cover this reoccuring problem?
  • I have a 2004 Tahoe that I find this is the second occasion that the ignition key won't turn. Once before my wife called to tell me she couldn't get her ignition key to turn. I asked her to move the steering wheel back and forth and such, but she couldn't get it to turn. Finally my daughter tried it and it worked. Now a month later it is doing it again. I have tried everything. Rocked the truck, emergency brake, steering wheel, gear shift and brake, etc...no joy. The truck only has about 30,000 miles. We have tried two different key. Any suggestions?
  • Did any you ever get a fix to this ping...it is very loud, obnoxious and even embarassing (imagine, being embarassed by such a nice looking vehicle!)?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You are still under warranty. It sounds like you are doing all the right things, so I would talk to the dealer about replacing the ignition lock cylinder. They can key the cylinder to match the defective unit, so you shouldn't need to change keys.

    Speaking of which, did you try a different key? Could be that her key is not cut quite right, or has some minor damage causing the problem.

    Jim
  • Bill I have the very same problem with my Tahoe. I had the fuel sensor
    replaced 4 weeks ago. Today I went out to start it with 1/4 tank of gas
    and it was dead. Have you had any luck diagnosing yours? I'll keep you
    posted if I make any headway.

    Faron
  • http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/data/03-01-38-019a.pdf

    Technical service bulletin "03-01-38-019A" "SEP 04 A/C - Underhood Rattle Noise on Hard Acceleration" addresses this issue.

    Here's what it says:
    Condition
    Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of
    A/C system performance.
    Cause
    Service Information
    This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an
    internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be
    damaged.
    Correction
    Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following
    repair procedure:
    1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized.
    Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized,
    proceed to step 5.
    2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air
    Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that
    are found.
    3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns.
    Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.
    4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been
    eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.
    5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace
    the transmission cooler lines if necessary.
    7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more
    information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is
    not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada,
    the District Service Manager).
    8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more
    information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.
    9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube
    Replacement procedure in SI.
    11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may
    require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more
    information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the
    performance of the A/C system.
    12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C
    system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken
    stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.
    13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.
  • is there anyway that i can get my rear back seat windows to go down further than 5 inches" ? this is an absolute terrible design by chevy ! can someone please help me investigate this and please leave me some feedback ! ~ :confuse: 1999 tahoe
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    probably not. Take a look at the shape of the door, there's nowhere for the window to go. Very common on SUV's.
  • shouldnt it at least go down 50 % ? ~ thankyou for your response !
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    I just replaced the alternator on my 99 Tahoe. Since I disconnected the battery, the radio now displays "LOC" and it will not work. Do I need to take it to a dealer to unlock it, or can I do this myself with some magic code?

    Thank you!
  • fjd44fjd44 Posts: 11
    I had the same issue with an S10 pickup a couple years back. I searched GOOGLE for "DELCO Theftlock radio" and came up with the code below (or something very similar). In any event it worked fine and I was able to reset the code and then remove the code...

    1.Press and hold presets 2 & 3 for about 10 seconds until the first 3 digits of the display code are displayed.
    2. Write the numbers down.
    3. Press the AM/FM button, write down the next 3 numbers.
    4. Call 1-800-537-5140, when asked, enter 202107, press the # button and
    enter the 6 digit code from the radio, you will get an unlock code, write it
    down.
    5. Go back to the car, press the hour button and set the first 2 numbers, then
    press minute button and set the next two last numbers, press AM FM button, SEC should be displayed, turn on radio.

    To remove customers code, repeat step 5. you should see --- on radio face,
    the code is now out of the radio.

    I just checked "202107" and it no longer works... 219055 may work, or do a search for others. The procedure should be the same.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Thanks for the reply. I called a local dealer and he walked me thru it on the phone. Works fine now.
  • Hello i have the same problem with my 02 suburban. It will not start on 1/4 tank until i add fuel. I have replaced the fuel filter and the same problem still. Now the gauge sticks on full for about 100 miles. It started to do this right after the warranty went out. Do you have any ideas how to fix this.
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