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Chevy Tahoe



  • rmoya: Beginning in 2002, GM added a "one-click" start feature on some of their models. In 2003, it trickled down to even more models, including their Full-size SUVs. The idea behind this feature is that the driver just needs to turn the key all the way to the right and immediately release it - the starter will then crank on its own until the engine starts. This is opposed to turning the key and holding it while the starter cranks. Its similar to the system on Mercedes and BMW. In fact, GM first introduced this feature on their Cadillacs with the Northstar. Once you get used to it, it is a pretty neat feature.
  • gogolfgogolf Posts: 2
    I'm wondering if anyone has ever used Onstar to diagnose a problem and if it was accurate.
  • rmoyarmoya Posts: 11
    Unfortunately one feature I really wanted but was unable to get was the homelink. On some newer models I see that the homelink is added to the driver side sunvisor. Wondering if anyone knows whether there is a possibility to swap visors. I would buy one with the homelink, and I assume that since there is power for the light on the mirror, it would work for the homelink as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • anyone done this? any gotchas. just think the wheels/tires look a little silly with them on. may put them back on after new wheels are purchased. thanks
  • I have a 2001 Denali w/ 43k miles and occassionally it will idle roughly once it has warmed up. I looked over on this board and searched the net and saw numerous references to the rough idle on Vortec engines (4.8,5.3,6.0) and there seems to be a number of theories why this occurs. One idea is that the engine runs lean for low emissions at idle and this causes a slightly rough idle when the engine is warm. There has been mentioning of replacing throttle bodies, but this does not seem to remedy the problem in every case. On one board I did find some encouragement from people replacing the factory platinum tipped plugs with a variety of other spark plugs resulting in a smoother idle (better performance). Anyone replaced the plugs on their Vortec have any comments?
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    But in the old days ('70's) when people could and did work on their own cars we could adjust the timing. You could set it to run smooth or kick it back a notch or two for better economy which made the idle rough(er).
  • rmoyarmoya Posts: 11
    Just in case you might be interested, please let me know if you want to sell those wheel flares. I like them on my ride, but was unable to find a Tahoe with that option here in FL. Let me know if youre interested.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Rather than replacing the entire throttle body which is probably not necessary, sometimes the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor/Switch) becomes defective or even dirty. This is a common cause for the rough idleing sypmtons you are describing. Unless a spark plug is fouled, this is most likely not the problem.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Please, no buying and selling on the Town Hall boards. Thanks.

    tidester, host
  • Anybody else have the same problem as this?

    The default base and treble levels are around 25%....when i adjust them to desired level (around 60%) but then change to another pre-set channel, it has defaulted back to the original factory/OEM settings......i am constantly having to adjust the base/treble levels and the manual doesn't seem to explain how program this where it will stay where i want......
  • I'll take a look at the TPS and see if it is just outputting variable resistance values. If so, I'll run it through the range and at idle to see if the values fluctuate indicating a faulty sensor.
  • Stationkeeper reset your station, WITH the treble and bass levels where you want them, then resave the station to that button#. That cured mine, from the same problem If you're talking the am and fm stations, that fixed mine
  • kb9jdykb9jdy Posts: 1
    My 1998 Yukon developed a hard shift "clunk" between first and second gears after stopping at a light/sign. A friend tipped me to the solution he used and it worked. All that was needed was a complete change of fluid in the transfer case. The problem has not returned.
  • richphillips:

    many thanks....worked like a charm. I initially contacted my GMC dealer who said essentially that "those Bose systems are a little strange, they probably don't want you to mess with the bass and treble settings."

    i'll call them and let them know in case a customer calls them with the same question.
  • michy2michy2 Posts: 6
    I have posted previously about this problem as I am experiencing the same thing and have had the Yukon into the dealer twice. The second time, heavy weights were attached to the exhaust system to "dampen" the noise and vibration. Technical support at GM has commented to the Service Dept. that many Yukons experience this problem (extra load on the engine with A/C on/compressor running) causes excessive vibration in the exhaust system) and there is no real fix. The dampeners, however, somewhat improve the problem but do not fix it entirely. I am currently waiting for an arbitration date of Aug. 14 to have GM buy back this vehicle - others who have posted here and had the same problem have had their vehicles bought back. Maybe your low droning noise/vibration are not too bad and acceptable to you.
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Can you please briefly describe the process if I want to have GM buy back my new tahoe. I am looking for contact information/departments etc. Any help or advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Information on arbitration is in the back of either your ownter's manual or warranty information booklet. Other than that process, you can sue under your state lemon law, which requires attorneys, etc.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    The Better Business Bureau has a process specifically for vehicle manufacturers and GM has an agreement with them to do the arbitrations. You can get their number from any dealership - or probably from their web site.

    There are times when it is better to deal directly with the manufacturer than to start through the arbitration process. Once you have started through the arbitration, the manufacturer will not deal with you directly.

    Many state's lemon laws require you to pursue the administrative remedy (i.e. arbitration process) before proceeding with a lawsuit. In any event, the standards followed during the arbitration process are based on the applicable state's lemon law. So, be very familiar with your state's lemon law even if you are engaged in arbitration.

    One more thing. Although the arbitrators are supposed to be neutral, and they technically are, don't think that they are going to go to bat for you. In my experience, they narrowly interpret the law in favor of the manufacturer and really don't "arbitrate" anything. They simply act as the middle man for passing your demands through to the manufacturer (which demands will likely be summarily denied).

    Although you have to take this with a grain of salt (after all - I am an attorney), I think the public should quit accepting the bad deals that they get through these arbitration proceedings and start pressing the manufacturers by filing suit. In my experience, the manufacturers get away with murder simply because the customer realizes that the lawsuit will be expensive and that there are no guarantees (you can't blame a client for being rational). However, as long as the public never shows any willingness to fully pursue their rights, manufacturers are not going to have much incentive to treat their customers fairly.

    Having said that, I don't want to imply that the manufacturer is always the bad guy. While I have not yet experienced a manufacturer who awarded its customer what I believed was a full recovery, I have heard that it has happened elsewhere!!!

    I'll right - I'll get off my soap box so that we can continue discussing trucks.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    About 10 years ago, my father sued Dodge/Chrysler due to unresolved problems with a new truck he purchased. The process, start to finish took probably 6-8 months. So you can see it is not a quick process.

    If you truly have a problem, stick to your guns as it may take a while.
  • dawgs4dawgs4 Posts: 5

    The humming noise is low in my 2003 Tahoe and thus does not bother me. It is the "air leak" Noise at idle that drives me crazy. Although, every Tahoe I have been in since does the same thing. Let me know how your case turns out....

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