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Chevy Tahoe

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Comments

  • To get the 2003 Tahoe $5k rebate I would have had to do my own financing or pay cash. In trying to do a lease deal on the 2003 the dealers always wanted to apply to $5K to the lease as a cap reduction. Trouble was that they then either increased the money factor to a ridiculous rate or fiddled with the residual. In essence, in my case, I could get the 2004 for the same monthly payment as the 2003. It just didn't make sense for me not to go with the 2004. I'm in So. Cal also. I agree, though, it was any easy deal to make. If I paid cash I could have gotten the 2003 for $34K.
  • Yukon97 - I can't feel any difference with respect to the Intermediate Steering Shaft and the humidity, but it does seem to change with respect to "loading" on it. By loading, I refer to how much force is being put on the wheel to make the vehicle steer where I want it to go. If I am on a straightaway, I can only feel it when the curvature of the road changes. If I am traveling around the cloverleaf by the interstate, it really starts to chatter at a reasonable speed. However if I really a hard turn, the higher torsional force along the Intermediate Steering Shaft, tends to prevent the clicking from happening because the parts don't have a chance to release the torsional force and click against parts in the opposite direction.
  • I only notice it in mine when making a wide turn (only to the left) across a rutted or rough intersection....never straight and level driving. First time they fixed it the paperwork said they torqued bolts on the steering shaft. Second time paperwork said they lubricated the steering shaft. Both times it was a fix for 6mo/6kmiles. It's irritating but relatively quick and easy to correct.
  • I also have had the problem with the Intermediate Steering Shaft on my 2001 Chevy Impala. The car has only 32000 on it and it has been back to the dealer 3 times on this. They have only greased it each time. I am of the opinion that if there is a clicking in the ISS then there is excessive clearance, then only a replacement will fix the clearance. No amount of grease with fix excessive clearances.
  • There is actually a kit for the GM trucks to address this problem. I believe the kit contians new gaskets and a lubricant. I too only really notice my chatter during sweeping turns in both directions. It is more annoying than anything, but I wish the fix would last longer.
  • I can no longer use the factory AM/FM/CD on AM due to loud chirping and buzzing noises. This started around 60k miles (1999 Tahoe LS)and hasn't stopped. I believe it to be related to the ABS somehow as speed and brake pedal application affect the noise coming out the speakers. Most times the AM radio is useless. Any help would be greatly appreciated - email direct if you like - ron@syo.com - THANKS from Novi, MI. USA
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    " only notice it in mine when making a wide turn (only to the left) across a rutted or rough intersection....never straight and level driving."

    That's exactly how the dealer duplicates the intermediate steering shaft problem. Supposedly, newer models (2002 and up) are suppose to have the new updated shafts. Then again....

    On my '00 Silverado, the shaft was replaced and never had any problems thereafter. So far the '02 Denali hasn't had it either.
  • I knew there was as reason I needed a new one....lol. You would think that making a steering assembly that didn't need "lubrication" every 6k wouldn't be rocket science. Oh well. I've had everything in the book and they all have some issue. thanks
  • One of the best things I have ever heard!
  • When I turn sharply into a parking space and stop for a second, then turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, a low groan is heard from the steering wheel area. If I turn the wheel slowly the groan will last longer. Also I can barely feel a very slight vibration. Up to this moment I havn`t moved a inch in the reverse direction. It`s got to be a continuation of GM`s dam Steering Shaft Problem - in my humble opinion. It doesn`t do this every time but too often to ignore.
    Maybe they will get it right by year 2010.
  • Hi- I would appreciate some feedback as our A/c recently quit. How to troubleshoot this?
    1)I did test (low pres side)and there is some pressure still in the lines.
    2)The compressor will not engage on its own. I did cycle it through a test (hot-wired)
    Help? next step?
    D~
  • Your comment " There is still some pressure in the lines" is important. Most systems have a low pressure cut-out switch. This is intended to block compressor operation without the proper amount of charge being present. The refrigerant is also the lubricant which prevents high wear and tear.
    In my humble opinion someone must check connections and such for leaks, repair leaks, pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks and remove moisture, repressurise system, and again check for leaks and correct temperature pull-down.
  • You are describing the Intemittent Half Shalf re-lube job. I actually just picket mine up from the dealer last night for the same problem. This is the second time I have had it done. About 4 months ago I went through some high water and think it may have washed out the lubricant. Talk with your dealer, it takes them no longer than an hour to replace and it is covered under warranty.

    ~bekind
  • Would someone please post a link or send me the TSB regarding this in an email?

    Thanks.
  • took it in for an oil change and my every-six-month steering lube. Took about 90 minutes. This is my third time in 17k miles. Every 10k miles would probably do it for most people but I'm kinda c/o about my cars. Even though I find it pretty crazy GM can't design a steering system for this car that doesn't need a "lube job" every 10k miles, it doesn't take long to fix and it feels kinda like a new car each time I have it done. It's worth an hour and a half.
  • Hi all,

    Anyone got a service manual for an 02 Tahoe? I'm looking for the pinout for the connector that goes to the separate tape deck in the center console. I'm interested in patching into the line level signals that run from the tape to the head unit. Yes, I know about the boxes from PIE and PAC. I don't care about retaining use of the tape deck. I just want to substitute my own line level signal (from mp3 player) instead of the tape deck's.

    Please post or email me at ryeung8@yahoo.com.

    Thanks! Any help greatly appreciated!
  • why Edmunds shows a $1500, $1000, and $750 rebate on the '04 Tahoe? Is it regional or what?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,958
    Our incentives page loads data depending on what zipcodes you enter.

    My zip shows a $1500 and a $750 incentive - the $750 one is only for active military. I don't have the $1,000 one here. You can check the fine print under each incentive for the various restrictions

    Steve, Host
  • Just curious to know if any of you have tried this kit out.

    I am thinking about it and it seems fairly easy to install.

    I am not sure if it will void the warranty.
  • We bought our 2000 Tahoe in early 2002. The warranty ran out in May of this year. The Tahoe currently has about 38k miles and has been a pleasure to own thus far.

    However (you knew it was coming) for the past month, I've noticed that acceleration is very very sluggish. Once it's it second gear however the it feels fine. Just initially, it's awful and I feel I can run faster. It never had awesome pickup, but it was never this sluggish. Yet another problem is that the 'Service Engine Soon' light has been on. We brought it into the dealer but just to look at it was $179 and we simply cannot afford that. We're going to have our friend who owns his garage check it out, but do any of these problems sound familiar?

    The dashboard lights also aren't coming on - half the time I'm not sure how much gas is in the car or how fast I'm going. A part of it may be due to the remote start my husband had put on it. If so, we're going to take it off permanently. But can the remote start be a factor in all of the problems? Our friend thinks that it may need a new ignition switch. I'm taking it to the alarm place tomorrow to see if it's wired properly.

    Looking for any advice/suggestions.
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