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Chevy Tahoe



  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    You're right about the used Mercedes M class; at least from what I've read. There seem to be a healthy number of them that are service nightmares.

    Supposedly the Land Rover Disco's and Range Rovers are just as bad. You can get a good one; but there's a decent chance of getting one that spends half of its time on the lift at the dealership.

    I read a lot of good stuff about the Toyota Land Cruiser...but they are expensive. I look at the DC-Metro area papers, and even the 2000 models are still running upper 20's to about 30K. My brand-new 2000 Yukon was only 31K (2wd).

    I guess I'm starting to get the "itch" for another new vehicle. My Yukon has been very reliable and trouble-free; and it's a good looking truck. I just don't want to replace it with something that's going to be a hassle.
  • 4burb4burb Posts: 55
    First, with all the discussion of the ride height in front not being adjusted I would like to know the following. I was wondering why the back of some burbs/tahoes sit higher than the front and some are level, not talking about those with autoride. Specifically, my friends 03 LT 2WD is level and my 02 LT 4WD sits higher in the back. Dealership told me the difference was 2WD vs 4WD but I'm sure I have seen both 2WD and 4WD burbs/tahoes, some that are level and some that sit higher in back. Don't all LTs w/o autoride have the same "premium" suspension?
    Second, my 02 LT 4WD has the factory fender flares. I was thinking of putting the molded Husky splash guards on it and wanted to know if anyone has done this? How hard was it and do you like them?
    Thanks for all the great info and conversations.
  • From my observations, most 2wds sit near level. Most 4x4s sit with the rear much higher. On the other chat rooms I frequent, most 4x4 owners refer to their trucks as 'grazing' because the front end sits so low. GM does this for numerous reasons, safety, better visiblity, more areodynamic. I raised my front end of my 02 Z71 'hoe about 1.5" inches by cranking the torsion bars.
  • cmr239cmr239 Posts: 12
    I can only speak pretaining to 2000 models (things may have changed for 02 or 03), but my Yukon has the Z71 suspension while my Dad's Tahoe has the self leveling shocks(NOT Autoride). Both y2k's, both 4wd. Dad's Tahoe is only about an inch higher, back to front. Mine is about another inch and a half more elevated in the rear, not counting the tire size difference.(Z71's have about an inch taller tire). I did some measuring under my Yukon and decided I would need to "crank the bars" two and a half inches to level the truck. This could be difference you are seeing on some trucks.
  • Hi all, new to the forum. I have an '02 Tahoe 4dr, 4wd with autoride. The parking/ebrake was not engaging. when I crawled under to adjust it, it looks as though it is already at the tightest setting. I dont see a way to adjust the cables back at the caliper/rotor. any suggestions?

  • The rear is usually higher for the simple reason that (as a pick-up ) when you load it ( up to the maximun weight), most of this weight is toward the back of the truck.

    As for torsion bars, using them either to lower or raise the front is a BAD idea.
    Very simply because they are designed to be adjusted in the middle of the front suspension travel and their "resistance" or how many #s you need to twist them is not linear.

    Let's say that you have a total of 8" front travel, 4" up (rebound) and 4" down (compression).
    If you crank the front up by 2", now not only you only have 2" of Up/rebound left but the front suspension is going to be a lot stiffer ( since the torsion bar don't have a linear resistance).

    Lowering it by 2" will create the exact opposite, a softer ride with 2"less dow/compression travel.

    Obviously,suspension travel is NOT limited by springs and/or torsion bars but by mechanical/hardware design ( bump stop for example on compression)
  • Lucnoel, thanks for the post. I too was thinking that this wasn't a good thing. BUT, your explanation doesn't tell us why aside from the ride now being stiffer or softer with less wheel travel. This isn't going to change anyone's mind nor the bit about nonlinearity of adjustment. Tell us why this is a screwball idea worthy only of pimple faced teenaged boys, not serious car nuts. In other words, please elaborate.
  • Here's my take. First, pretty much all Chevy trucks have a front end that slopes down. This is done for safety reasons, visibility, and even better aerodynamics. To level the truck, you can either get a lowring kit for the rear and bring it down about 2", or if raise the front end by twisting the tbars. I just wnat to share a post from a very knowledgeable source, I beleive he has been a chevy tech for years, and I believe him when he says twisting the tbars is not really a bad thing.

    "To Answer:

    I have had 3 trucks from '00 to '02 with this new "revised" front suspension... The primary parts that are stressed when "cranking" the torsion bars, or should I say increasing the pre-load on the torsion bars, are the Lower Ball joints, and the Half-Shafts...

    The older body style Chevys were notorious for the above parts failing pre-maturely when cranking the torsion bars... The new trucks have "better" control arm geometry, and this is less of a concern, but a concern nonetheless!

    Another thing that happens that hardly anyone thinks of when cranking the torsion bars is, suspension down travel... The factory ride height is about 60/40 on the front right now... This means out of the 100% range of movement of the front suspension, the distance available is 60% downward, 40% upward... If you have the bars cranked up, this ratio goes the other way... So, if you go over a large enough dip, or have an emergency stop, the truck re-bounding into the air CAN reach it's downward limit, and pull a shock apart, or destroy the valving inside of itself...

    As far as the new truck's half shafts, cranking the factory keys shouldn't increase the shaft angles to the point of being hurtful... Unless you are off road, and have that tire in the air, and crank the wheel all the way to one side, and apply power... This even in stock torsion bar setting can hurt a CV boot/joint ...

    I put 40,000 miles on my 2000 Silverado Z71 Xtra Cab with cranked torsion bars, and had no pre-mature wear or failures... BUT, I did grease the front end every 5,000 miles ... Personally, I would stay away from the Aftermarket or Ford Keys ... You're asking for trouble ... The temptation is there due to the cost factor, but if you want something for nothing, you will probably pay later ... The guys that sell these things TELL YOU it's ok, but are they gonna repair your truck for you if it's not? ... Just trust me on this one...

    I have a good friend who is Shop Foreman of a Chev Dealership, and also he's been a Driveline Specialist on GM trucks for 17 years... He told me when I wanted to crank my torsion bars up, to leave 2 threads showing on the adjustment bolts MAXIMUM AND NO HIGHER !!!

    You will get about 1-1.5 inches out of that much ... Make sure you lift the truck before adjusting the bolts, because it's a lot of stress on them to turn the torsion bars loaded ... Try to keep your side to side adjustment the same ... Do this on level ground only to assure good measurement ... Once you make an adjustment, measure from the ground to the center of the wheel well in a straight vertical line ... I usually draw an imaginary line through the center of the wheel, and measure above and below that point ... After making an adjustment to both sides, drive truck around the block, and park in same place... Measure, and try to keep both sides the same... This might require different adjustments on either side, but not excessive... Have a full tank of gas, and if you like, have a person sit in driver's seat ...

    Finally, you will have to re-align the truck... THIS IS A FOR SURE THING, DON'T DRIVE TOO LONG !!! ... CAMBER WILL BE OFF, ALONG WITH TOE A LITTLE BIT ... And depending on your Caster setting from factory, it might need to be nudged too ... I have found that some of our AV's actually come from the factory with NEGATIVE CAMBER, I think for comfort reasons... At this point, if you have NEGATIVE CAMBER, it's a good thing to turn up the torsion bars a little...

    The final result will be about a 20-30% harsher ride than what you have now, and a little more stress on the front suspension, that might wear your parts out a little faster, but it's probably a minimal concern... The downtravel issue is a concern, but if you're not attempting to get airborne or nearly airborne, then cool... Just be aware of the issue when you decide to hit railroad tracks at 80 MPH ...

    11H "
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    I have a '97 Tahoe that has developed a humming noise that appears to be in the electrical system.
    It sounds like a fan or motor running and seems to come from the dash, may not though. It only does this when the engine is running. You can cause it to stop for a second by engaging something that draws a lot of current, such as the rear window defogger or emergence flashers. When you disconnect the alternator it will also stop. I have had two new batteries in the last year, they either start leaking or get a budge in the side and go dead. The last time the truck just quite while driving, replaced the battery and runs fine.Sears says there is a constance drain on the battery, the dealership says not that it is just bad battieries.

    The following parts have been replaced;


    Belt Tensioner


    The following things have been eliminated as a cause;

    Radio fan, radio was taken out and disconnected

    Seat unplugged

    Heater blower fuse taken out

    Exhauset system checked

    Various relays unpluged

    Anyone have an idea what could cause this problem?

  • I've been a loyal Ford customer for over 20 years. After a lot of teasing from my friends, I decided to try a GM product. I bought my brand new 2003 Tahoe in June this year and from day one the CD/Cassette player has had a problem. It would play the CD tracks just fine for about 15 to 25 minutes, depending on how loud I set the volume. Then it stops playing the CD and switches to radio or it remains silent with the display still showing the last track played. Sometimes it would resume playing the CD track on which it stopped then cut off again after about three or four minutes. Sometimes its power supply would just go completely for about one second then come back on with the clock display showing 12:00 am and the CD back to track #1. On two occasions it completely "locked up"; it would not play or eject the CD nor would it switch to radio mode. On both occasions I had to go under the hood and remove then replace the 15A fuse in the big black box, then press the eject button to get the CD out. I've tried using brand new CDs right off the store shelf as well as some I "burned" on my PC; the same problems continue, although these are the same CDs I play over and over without any problems in my friend's Ford Crown Vic. I also noticed that on every occasion, if I switch the unit off completely and leave it alone for about an hour it would play OK, but then start the same malfunctioning all over again. This led me to believe that the problem is caused by overheating to which some sort of protective circuit breaking device is responding, especially since the unit does not have a fan built in or attached to it. All it has attached on one side is a heat absorbing metal plate known as a "heat sink". I took the vehicle back to the dealer twice. On the second occasion they replaced the entire unit but the same problems still continues. They told me that they had put in a brand new unit but I later found out that it is a "remanufactured" unit instead. I've also talked to a few Chevy owners of pickups and SUVs and found that many of them have or have had identical problems with theirs. I also found similar postings on other websites. I then wrote to Delphi-Delco, the manufacturer of the unit. They replied that they do not deal directly with vehicle owners and that I should return it once again to the dealer. I happen to be a lover of music and as you can guess I'm pretty p****d by now. However, since everything is still under warranty I don't seem to have much choice other than letting them have a go at it once more.
     Is there anyone here who can offer any suggestions or solutions about this?
  • To adjust the parking brake you have to remove the rear disc brake rotors. A special tool is needed to measure the clearance between the parking brake shoe and the parking brake drum. You could probably adjust the clearance without the tool by making small adjustments and testing the parking brake after each adjustment. See message # 3949. It will give you some idea of what is involved to access the parking brake shoes.
  • I wonder if Tahoes equipped with the 3rd row seat have different rear springs to compensate for the extra weight of the seat and passengers.

    Also, Tahoes with towing packages may have different rear springs to handle the extra weight of a towed vehicle.

    The 2-wheel drive Tahoes may also have less weight at the front of the vehicle because they do not have the the 4-wheel drive system components.
  • I originally posted under message 3965. My 2003 LS Tahoe 2WD has had a very bad vibration since new. At idle, AC on or off(not as bad) when in drive stopped in traffic. The vibration is so bad at times, it sounds as if the exhaust is going to fall off. There is an awful hissing noise coming from the dash when the AC is on. There is a grind in the transmission from first to second, very low speed when cold. I have had repairs both to the steering column as well as the front end in addition to the above problems. My Tahoe has been at the dealer four times for a total of about 15 days. I am going through the Florida Lemon Law process and have already had the final repair attempt without success. On the third repair attempt, they stuck a exhaust damper on the tail pipe. It looks like it belongs on a Hugo I am at the stage where the BBB Autoline has re opened my case and GM has 14 days to respond. I will not except anything less than a refund. GM has had ample time to repair the problem. They have had numerous complaints and I too will not accept that all of the Tahoes "Do the same thing." I have had numerous vehicles and this is the worst of the batch. It is 2003. GM needs to get with the program and take care of their customers who plunk down over $35,000 for a vehicle. I drove my co-workers 2003 Tahoe and it has the same exact problems. I guess GM thinks that most people keep their cars/trucks for only a few years and it is not worth fighting them. Using the Lemon Law is not easy. It has taken alot of work on my behalf to get to where I am. I think most people would give up because of all of the requirements. Rest assure, I have printed all of the comments in this discussion to bring to arbitration. GM will not be able to say "You are the only one."
    Wish me luck. I will post what happens.
  • around 26k miles. I have been reading about the steering issue on these trucks and I definitely think something is loose or rattling with my steering. I kind of feels like a klunk, klunk, klunk when making a low speed turn. Is this covered in TSB 03-03-08-002 or are there others?

    I haven't driven a truck full time in years and am coming from a 01 BMW that had incredible steering.

    What other issues should I be on the lookout for with this truck?

    I believe the first big service appt is at $30k miles, correct?
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I have an '02 LS bought new 20 months ago. I've had my steering problem "fixed" 3 times (18kmiles). Seems kinda odd that as complicated as cars are, something as simple as the steering assembly ought to be a no-brainer. Nevertheless, it's an issue you'll have to address every 6 months or so. Upside is your service department can lube it up fairly quickly. I've learned to ask for the temporary fix every other oil change. The only other issue is the cold-start clatter. I've done lots of research on it and have concluded it's irritating but not an engine killer. Otherwise, it's a fine vehicle. People drive the legs off these trucks. I've owned a BMW. When they behave, they're fabulous; when they don't, they're miserable. Your big old Chevy truck will not be perfect but it will be easy to live with and very forgiving. Love my Tahoe.
  • I took it in this morning and the service guy knew instantly what I was talking about and got it back to me within two hours. The steering feels great now. He said the fix should take care of the problem for the foreseeable future, but I assume that means around 6 months?

    It is not that big deal to take it in twice per year for this, I will try to coordinate it with oil changes or regular services I guess.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    KInda like getting a new car isn't The thing I've enjoyed about my Chevy service (compared to Toyota in particular) is their willingness to acknowledge a problem. Had a driver's door rattle and practically before I got the words out he said,"Those power window regulators are bad about coming loose." My driver's seat had an odd "pop" when I leaned back hard in the seat. Service guy said he didn't know why they didn't torque those darn front seat bolts tighter at the factory. Everything on my x-Toyota was met with "never heard of that before" and more often than not resulted in "within the norm" for the vehicle.
       Hope you enjoy your Tahoe.
  • I am somewhat glad to hear that I am not the only one who has experienced what could be termed as a ringing noise coming from the intake area on my 2003 GMC Yukon SLT.

    You can only hear it when you are decelerating - it goes away when you press the gas pedal. It is also present at idle with the car in park.

    The dealer heard the noise and thought it might be pulley or tensioner related. They checked everything out and deemed it OK.

    Too bad that is considered a "normal" noise. First it was my sunroof that leaked (there was a puddle on the dash and seats), the headliner rattled, the heated seats would turn off after 15 seconds of operation (it's doing it again now), and the memory functions did not always work. Now I have to deal with an irritating noise that is "normal".
  • Is there a permanent fix for the intermediate shaft noise--other than getting a dealer lube job every 6 months? What exactly is going on? For example, can a sleeve or appropriate shim be made to solve the problem? Just curious, since my truck is also afflicted.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,986
    Anyone with a knocking noise during the first few seconds after starting?

    GM bought back trucks with loud engines (Forbes)

    Steve, Host
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