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Chevy Tahoe

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    With the 3.73 you will have a higher tow and haul rating. Same as with the 4.10. It comes down to what you need. No towing or hauling? Enjoy the increase mpg.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    The '04 has a tad more HP than the '02, so even with the higher gear ratio (lower actual number) it should feel about the same. GM went to these gears to get their MPG up a bit. It works fine for folks that don't tow or haul a lot of weight, so it sounds like you got lucky. Some folks don't pay attention to this stuff and end up with towing gears on a vehicle that never tows.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    If your going to be towing more than 4000lbs or so, stay away from the 3.42s, particularly if you tow up any type of grade. I have 3.73s in my Suburban (5.3) and even though my boat weighs around 4600-4800lbs, I wish it had 4.10s. While the Suburban handles the load with ease, I definitely know the boat is back there, and when I hit the hills it definitely struggles.

    If you don't plan to tow, then go with the lower ratio.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Or if you don't plan to tow alot! Who cares if it struggles a bit if you're not towing all the time. The 1-2mpg you'll gain when empty will be worth it. I had the 3.73's on my '02 and had no problem with 4500#. Pulled that several times acrossed country and didn't really struggle. It would do 20mpg on the highway empty.

    I've got 3.73's on my Silvy, but it only has the 4.8L and it's a bear to tow with. Gets bad gas mileage empty too, probably working so hard to maintain speed.

    What's with the diesel name? I've got a couple diesel I pull with, both Cummins.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I love this site. Apparently, enough people watch it to respond to almost any question. My 02 didn't have the tow package but did have the upgraded axle. My 04 has the $300 hitch but came with the standard axle. I suspect someone who doesn't know beans about cars is in the back office configuring the dealer's allotment.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I didn't know you could order the factory hitch with a 3.42 axle.

    Learn something new every day.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I suspect someone who doesn't know beans about cars is in the back office configuring the dealer's allotment.

    Happens a lot. I went to look at a truck in the mid 90's that had a huge discount advertised in the paper. Totally loaded with every possible option....except A/C. That was back when options were all seperate and someone forgot to click the A/C box :P Took me minute to realize it was missing and the salesman wasn't going to tell me that's for sure!
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    I didn't know you could order the factory hitch with a 3.42 axle.

    I was looking at 05 Tahoe's & Sub's the other day and every one had a tow package with 3.42s. Unfortunately, the 3.73s aren't even an option anymore on an '05 Suburban 4x4.

    If you plan on towing much weight and/or tow often stay away from the 3.42s, you won't be happy.

    As I mentioned before, I have a 4800ish lb boat and my '00 Suburban has the 3.73s. We just got back from towing the boat from Kansas to Lake Cumberland in Kentucky. With the boat, the family, and a weeks worth of gear, we were definitely loaded. The hills in Kentucky were a challenge, I could maintain speed but, my right foot was planted to the floor.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    What's with the diesel name? I've got a couple diesel I pull with, both Cummins.

    When I first registered on Edmunds, I owned a VW Jetta turbo diesel. I learned to appreciate diesel's with that car and wish I could get a diesel SUV w/o buying an Excursion ( I don't want anything larger than my Suburban).

    The new Ram Mega cab has my attention, I'd think that would make a nice tow vehicle with the Cummins.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I've still got my Jetta diesel too. Weeeeeeee

    I'm thinking the next gen of Suburbans might have the duramax, but probably only in the 3/4 tons. Still would drive a lot better than an excursion, but I'd like to see a 1500 with a smaller diesel myself. I've got quad-cab cummins, mega cab looks...big!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I see what you mean on the rear axle ratios. The 3.42 is the standard, or for $100 on the sticker you can get 4.10.

    Wanna bet the 3.73 was dropped to get the tow rating high enough to avoid the CAFE requirements??? ;)
  • rjp1rjp1 Posts: 1
    I took my Tahoe to the dealership with the following problems. The rear a/c was blowing hot air and I had heard this terrible noise from under the hood, like the fan was hitting something, which happened just before the a/c went out. The noise was very short, but loud and did cause power loss to the vehicle. The noise was heard several times and was heard earlier in the day before dropping the Tahoe off at the service department. It usually happened during acceleration. I told the service advisor that I felt that the two things were related in some way. They called within two hours to tell me that the compressor was bad and to fix it would run $1200. When I picked up the vehicle two days later, the rear a/c is still blowing hot air and the front doesn't seem to be working as well as it did before they worked on it. Now, my questions ...how can the only a/c compressor in the vehicle be bad and it still be blowing cold air in the front? Also, Why would they need to replace the belt ($34), tensioner ($73), switch ($46), plus various other items under $15 if the compressor is all that was bad? What is the real problem here and am I getting ripped off by the dealership?

    I would appreciate any advice, thanks.
  • ffdawgffdawg Posts: 1
    I am buying a 98 chevrolet tahoe 4dr 5.7 vortec mark III edition and its my 1st suv is there anything that i should do to it after I get it it has 160,000 miles on it and I want it to last. their are a few problems that I have to fix when I get it. need's a new cat and new tires any suggestions would by helpful :) thanks Lou
  • AC finally died this past weekend. I was getting an awful vibration when I stepped on the accelerator but I thought I had narrowed the problem down to a broken clamp. I fixed that and everything seemed great for a week or two. This weekend it just died.

    A buddy of mine at work also has a 02 tahoe and he's had the belt tensioner replaced once already and is now having the same problem again. This seems to be a common problem I wonder if GM put a service bulletin out on it. Anyone know?
  • Technical service bulletin "03-01-38-019A" "SEP 04 A/C - Underhood Rattle Noise on Hard Acceleration" addresses this issue.

    Here's what it says:
    Condition
    Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of
    A/C system performance.
    Cause
    Service Information
    This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an
    internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be
    damaged.
    Correction
    Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following
    repair procedure:
    1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized.
    Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized,
    proceed to step 5.
    2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air
    Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that
    are found.
    3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns.
    Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.
    4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been
    eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.
    5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace
    the transmission cooler lines if necessary.
    7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more
    information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is
    not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada,
    the District Service Manager).
    8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more
    information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.
    9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube
    Replacement procedure in SI.
    11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may
    require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more
    information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the
    performance of the A/C system.
    12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C
    system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken
    stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.
    13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.
  • I brought my new 2005 Yukon to the dealer regarding my AC vibration issue I spoke about in a post about a month ago
    The dealer indicated that GM has agreed there is a problem, but they have not come up with a soution. They have given me a case # and showed me GM's Memo on the issue (which is from Nov 2004) and told me they will contact me when GM has a solution. I could post more info on the memo if anyone needs it

    Another question for everyone
    My driver side mirror seems to be auto dimming (looks like the inside rear view mirror in tint etc), but my passenger side mirror does not seem to tint/dim. Is this standard. I have a 2005 Yukon SLT. SO when you look at the outside mirrors at night, they do not look the same

    Another intersting thought: When loading up my Yukon for a trip, I heard the air compressor going off too level off the ride height(I have Autoride) , Why doesn't GM have this compressor accessible to use to blow up items etc. My father in laws GM minivan has this feature. Just a thought

    Rich
  • kkullkkull Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Tahoe 5.7L with 140,000 miles. Sometimes when I start engine and place in reverse to back out of garage engine stalls. Some times when I am stopped at a red light engine stalls. It may go a week without doing this or it may happen 3 or 4 times a day.

    Each time this happens it will immediately restart and run fine. Computer shows no codes (12).

    I have replaced the coil, cap, rotor, electronic module in distributor, pickup coil, and ECM. Nothing has helped so far.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    Thank you,

    Ken
  • I love my 2004 Tahoe, but it costs 50$ at least to fill it up !! I am sort of thinking maybe I need to trade to a smaller car, better on gas, maybe toyota avalon. any thoughts?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The difference in fuel economy will be more than offset by first year depreciation. Expect around a 25% loss in value from your purchase price.

    It is something that many do not consider; the big incentives in rebates, employee pricing, and subsidized interest rates can kill the value of a one year old vehicle. I can use our '04 Yukon as an example:

    MSRP: 38720
    Rebate: 3500
    Disc.: 3720
    Price: 31500 before taxes and fees.
    Current
    Value: 23687 Private party per Edmunds

    So, assuming I can get top dollar, thats a $7813 loss after 15 months.

    An '05 equiped the same as the '04 can be had for about $32K, or about the same as the '04 was new. And get the full warranty.

    Now, for those of you who might not have caught something here, you might note that the '05 actual cost, even with rebates and "employee discount" is more than the '04. That is because GM is nothing if not a master at number magic. By raising the employee cost, they were able to run the big ad campaign and still make the same or better money on the vehicle.

    Jim
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Well, if $50 is the magic number....I hate to inform you that it could easily cost almost as much to fill an Avalon. 18 gallons at todays average $2.429 for 87 octane will run you $43.72. Of course the cost of a fill-up isn't exactly a good measure of your fuel costs. I have a diesel truck that holds 90 gallons.....

    Now...if you want something that gets better gas mileage that's another story. An avalon is a very nice car, particularly the new ones. You'll probably average about 25mpg instead of 15mpg with the Tahoe. So if you drive 15,000 miles per year, that's a savings of about $1,000 per year. Not likely to make-up for your terrible depreciation hit you're going to take by trading your Tahoe.

    If you're planning to buy a new vehicle anyway, then this would be a good time to consider something more reasonable on fuel. Particularly if you really have no need for a full-size SUV, which appears to be the case.

    It's not easy to save money by trading vehicles, particularly just for gas savings. Maybe if you drove 25,000 miles per year and would take a Civic over a Tahoe.
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