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Chevy Tahoe



  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    Hmm, shoulda bought an Avalanche.
    '03 MSRP $34k, paid $24k
    Current Edmunds trade-in 18,827, private seller 20,315.
    only $3685 loss in 31 months. ;) (Been offered $18500 to 19500 trade on loaded '04s selling below Retail)
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    The reason GM charges $100 for the optional axle is to discourage people from buying them. If GM sells too many of the higher numeric axle ratios, it will hurt their CAFE numbers. So, by charging for the optional axle, you will only get it if you really want it. I found there was a major difference in acceleration feel between a 3.73 vs a 4.10 in 2001 on a 4wd Suburban. The 4.10 felt much better. This combined with the towing I do, made the decision very easy for me. No regrets at 65,000 miles.
  • tzunigatzuniga Posts: 2
    Just a thought have you tried to replace the starter solenoid. The symtoms your describing are signs of a bad starting solenoid. Also plugs and cables but if you don't have hesitation during acceleration I don't think the plugs are bad.
  • tzunigatzuniga Posts: 2
    I bought a 2001 Chevy Tahoe last year with the 5.3L engine, for the first eight months that I've had it the truck ran fine with regular gas, about four months ago I notice that my engine was pinging bad, I moved to Mid grade gas and the problem reduced a bit but I can still hear the engine ping at high accelerations when it's at operating temperature. Does anyone else have this problem and is there a better solution than paying high gas prices????? I though about getting my engine clean both oil and fuel systems but I don't know if that would address my problem.
  • taho02taho02 Posts: 3
    I just had my A/C compressor replaced due to this slugging problem. I was getting 2 noises. first the underhood rattle and sometimes a shudder sound. the rattle was due to the slugging and the shudder was due to the compressor locking up and the belt skipping.
    I never lost my A/C. My tahoe was at 36K when the noise started so I tried to find the problem ASAP to be covered under warranty. My dealer told me that I would have to produce this noise for them to help me. for me the noise was intermittant and hard to produce on demand . Fortunantely I found the TSB about the underhood rattle on this forum and took a copy of this to my dealer. By now I was a couple hundred miles over 36K but GM goodwill fix it under warranty. I did some pricing online in case the warranty wasn't honered and after market compressors for the 2002 tahoe ranged from $300 with remanufactured clutch to $600 for the part alone new. With labor and other parts $1,200 seems a bit high but not too much. To answer the question If you have cool air up front then the rear blowing hot issue is not the compressor. If your original complaint to the dealer was blowing hot in the rear then this should have been resolved and covered under the original estimate and I would hope your dealer would resolve this for you. It sounds to me like a control issue there is a seperate heater core in the rear but the refrigerant lines come from the compressor. The lines should have been flushed when the system was evacuated of the R134. The A?C performance of my
    tahoe is as good as when the truck was new after having the compressor replaced as per the GM TSB.Service was great as usual at my local chevy dealer.
  • taho02taho02 Posts: 3
    I just changed my cabin filters on a 2002 tahoe. the filters were $16 at advance auto parts they are listed in the purolator catalog. They are very easy to change it took me about 10 minutes. there are 4 screws you need to have a socket the second screw from the drivers side is recessed. once you remove this black cover you will see the A/C blower/heater core assembly it also looks like a black box. You will see the blower on the right under the dash and the heater core protudes lower into the passanger footwell by the drive axle hump.the filter compartment is between the blower and the core. you will see another screw holding a skinny acess panel in place remove this one screw,remove the access door and remove the filters, there are two side by side. to install reverse the procedure. make sure to have the filters facing the right direction there is an air flow arrow on the filters. this is very easy and my filters were very dirty. it made a big difference in the air flow.
  • I have a 2002 Tahoe and while the A/C is on it makes LOUD obnoxious noises especially while accelerating. Has any one had this problem before and what was it? How do you fix it? My husband thought it was the tensioner spent 80.00 and it still makes the noises. Any information on this would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance. :sick:
  • arriearrie Posts: 312

    As I wrote a lengthy response earlier to your post detailing some issues with my '04 Tahoe with flex fuel (L59) engine, the Z-engine, I have done some more work and I think I found one quite remarkable problem and after working on this my get-up-and-go got MUCH BETTER.

    I had the same problem with lack of power when accelerating from stop light, felt like there just wasn't enough power. What was really confusing is that sometimes power was there but most of the time it wasn't. It also acted like power came with a delay. If I would just keep the gas pedal in one position and allow the truck to accelerate I could feel how power suddenly kicked on.

    All this made me think of possible problem with the intake manifold pressure and was one of the reasons I changed the MAP sensor, which then proved not to be faulty. I did find bad connection at wire harness to MAP sensor though but changing sensor did not really help.

    I still thought it to be a vacuum related issue so I did a simple test. As I had purchased an extra MAP sensor I built a vacuum delay system to see if this makes any difference. Thinking behind this was that if intake manifold pressure is too high (vacuum too low) it retards engine spark timing too much and power just won't be there, especially when gas pedal is suddenly pressed when taking off from stop. This would also explain why power suddenly kicks in when the vehicle first slowly accelerates, power would come when manifold vacuum reaches proper level.

    What I did was that I T-ed off of the vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator with a 3 foot long very narrow tube. The end of this tube I had connected to a 3/8" tube of about 1 foot long and in the end of that I had the MAP sensor. THIS MADE VERY NOTICEABLE IMPROVEMENT TO ENGINE POWER WHEN TAKING OFF FROM STAND STILL.

    Then I came across a GM-Tech Link page in the internet. It tells about a problem with intake manifold gasket for L59 engine. They had made a seal material change obviously due to some issues. The page I found was at:

    After seeing this info I decided to check tightness of my intake manifold bolts. I torqued all 10 bolts to 7.5 ftlb, as the 2002 Haynes repair manual says (believe this part is same design). ALL BOLTS TURNED AT LEAST ONE FULL TURN, SOME ALMOST TWO. Tightening the bolts did help some. It got better for get-up-and-go, pretty much the same as it was with my vacuum delay arrangement.

    After experiencing improvement with bolt tightening I decided to check the gasket. Surprisingly the gasket in my Tahoe was of the new green type, not the old orange but it was obvious that the bolts for my intake manifold were not tightened right. In the surface of the cylinder head around several intake ports it was clearly visible how the gasket had not even touched the surface. The seal itself also showed how it had not been compressed around several ports. Also, underneath the intake manifold on top of the valley cover there was all kinds of dirt build-up. This is really strange since there is a good foam seal at each end of intake manifold to seal between the manifold and top of valley cover. Dirt should not get in there unless there is a force to make it through the foam seals. This force I believe is the vacuum from intake ports that leaks through gasket.

    I went and bought a new set of gaskets for about $90.00 from a dealer and installed. Tightened bolts in two steps first with about 4 ftlb on all bolts and then 7.5 ftlb for final torque. Did this in the order described in the Haynes repair manual.

    NEW GASKET MADE A HUGE IMPROVEMENT IN GET-UP-AND-GO. The delay is gone, it goes now when I ask it to. It also made gear shift better, obviously as the engine can give a better torque output.

    Hope this helps,

  • I have a 97 tahoe lt 5.7L 4WD w/ 106000 miles. I have a problem with going up long inclines.
    My engine loses a significant amount of power and is very sluggish and the SES light flashes at me for about 2 minutes then goes steady for about 80 miles then goes out. I know thgat when the SES light comes on and goes out later the fault has not occured again. If I drive in 3rd gear the light will come on too an go out later. Driving on level roads seems to be fine, every now and then I can feel a little jump at driving speed. Is this a transmission problem or does it have something to do with the engine ? Maybe both ? Any help would be nice
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I'm interested in a Tahoe and need the bench seat. It only comes in cloth. The salesman said I could get aftermarket leather installed for about $1000. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket leather on seats? Thanks.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    You might check the GMC Yukon. Back in '02 they had a leather bench option when the Tahoe did not.

    I've seen some aftermarket leather that was pretty good.
  • milehi2milehi2 Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Tahoe...The Dealership wants you to change the fluid in the front and rear differential ( front if you have a 4x4) every 30k miles because they wack you for $300.00 for the service. the synthetics should go the 100k distance, I just top my fluids off. Hope this helps !
  • milehi2milehi2 Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Tahoe and just took it to the dealership to check out the brakes (I have 40K miles on the vehicle) the brakes were fine ....the tech told me the front brakes go for 70k miles and the rears 45K. Thats the good news.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    The bench seat in the Yukon only comes in cloth. Thanks.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    There's a company called Classic Soft Trim that many Dealers use. Don't know if there are any in your area but from what I've heard their leather is better than OEM and they do very nice work. Folks who want leather but not alll the extras you have to take to get it often go this route.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I'm considering buying a Tahoe. I see that a hybrid is due out in the spring 2006. Should I wait? Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I'd wait. If gas hits $5 a gallon they may be giving Tahoes away in '06. ;)
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Turns out that, according to a recent article in, the Tahoe hybrid won't be much of a hybrid.

    For example, the "hybrid' versions of GM's Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups use only conventional technology improvements rather than the full combination of gas-electric engines (these pickup trucks could easily reach 30-35 miles per gallon if GM had done a better job).

    But GM is not stopping there. Its "Green Line' Saturn VUE and Chevy Malibu "hybrid' will be only marginally more fuel-efficient.

    >While mislabeling conventional cars as hybrids is disturbing, GM's plans to >hybridize its massive Yukon and Tahoe SUVs in 2007 is a potential poison to >the market. GM officials call these vehicles "strong' hybrids, which may well be a >euphemism for "muscle hybrids' vehicles that use hybrid technology primarily for >performance rather than significantly boosting fuel economy
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Why do you drive an SUV? To look cool, or to do a job. A hybrid has yet to be economically designed to pull a 7K lb load. And if you need to pull a load like that, fuel economy is not a concern.

    And if a full tow capacity hybrid could be made, by GM or anyone else, it would have been done. The potential profit in sales for a vehicle like that would be astronomical.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I don't drive one, yet. I'm considering a Tahoe with a bench seat because it's one of the few cars I can drive comfortably. I definitely don't need a Tahoe, but I'm not going to buy a car I'm not comfortable in. I'm open to any suggestions of alternatives. Thanks.
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