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Chevy Tahoe

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  • I have a 2001 GMC Yukon w/109700 miles on it just took it in for its first real check-up - Plugs, fluid etc. I too have this problem, a couple of years ago I noticed it knocking in the morning but soon clears up as it warms up. My Cousin works as a mechanic at my local GMC dealer; I asked him about it and he informed me that for these trucks it is normal, it doesn't seem to hurt anything and as you can see I have a lot of miles on my truck and am planning on putting a lot more on it.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    The knocking is somewhat common, I believe it's called "cold start knock" officially. Some do it really bad, some lightly. My '02 started doing it around 20k miles and shortly thereafter I towed a trailer acrossed country and it never did it again. Go figure. My '03 hasn't done it yet, just rolling passed 24k miles. They tend to use a little oil too.

    The coolant leak is likely the intake and that needs fixed. Some have had problems with intakes. None of mine did, but it's a known problem.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    "Chevrolet said on Thursday it will introduce the redesigned 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe in New York at Times Square on New Year's Eve."

    2007 Chevrolet Tahoe Launch (Inside Line)

    image
    Steve, Host
  • I'm new to the forum....noticed your message about the speedometer. Mine went out recently--needle drops to the bottom, then attempts to reset itself in 5 mph increments each time I cycle the ignition. Works fine for a few days, then same problem all over again... Have heard about other owners with same issue--sounds like a defect in the cluster and should be recalled. Looking for anyone with info on what to do. A $650 cluster replacement doesn't sound like a viable option.
    (2004 Tahoe, less that 2 years old, ~39,000 miles when problem first occurred.)
  • do a search on "piston slap". These trucks are notorious for this.....although dependable, these pushrod old school V8's aren't exactly precision engineered like a BMW V-10 engine and there is some slap on warm up.

    Mine has done it for years with no probs! Just be gentle on the engine during warm up....it takes a while to warm up as well.
  • Can anyone advise me how to remove the headrests from the middle row of seats.They go up and down but not out and I need the space. Its an 02 Tahoe with leather.
  • This is my first post to this forum so bear with me if I'm doing this wrong. About one week ago my wife was driving our 2004 Chev. Tahoe home when all of the sudden all of the gauges went on the blitz. The Odometer readout read somthing like "Service Stability". At that point it didn't die but everything electrical seemed to have a mind of it's own. Once she got home, and turned off the motor, she tried to start the engine. When she turned the key, everything was dead (no power seats, power locks, starter, etc.) When I get home from work a few hours later, she tells me what happened and that her truck was dead. SO I go out and try to start it. It starts immediately with no problems ??!!??!!??!?!?!? Back to normal or so we thought. The next day, the same syptoms again but this time, it would not start for me either, completely dead. Me being an old school shade-tree, I guessed either the battery or alternator so I go have them both checked at the local mechanic (after I jump started the engine). He says both the batt. and the alt. are fine. and that I should take it to the dealership to have them run tests on it. Once at the dealership, they run some tests on it and say they THINK it's the battery.
    Confused at this point, I figure, what the heck, I'll try it, they're Chevrolet's official mechanic's and SHOULD know what they're talking about (WRONG). I replace the battery and it works OK for one day then the gremlins start up again. SO...back to chevrolet with a new (needless) $70 battery. This time, the mechanic changes his mind and says he thinks it needs reprogramming and charges me $145 to do so. He then does a short 10 min. Test drive and proclaims it cured! (WRONG) This time, it worked for a whopping 2 hours before the symptoms started again. Does ANYONE have any idea what could be wrong with this thing?
    I have a friend who's a mechanic. When I told him the symptoms, he said that he thought it might be the cluster. Not knowing anything about a cluster (or even what it is) does this sound viable? He also said that the cluster would cost about $400 +/-! This is a 2 year old Tahoe mind you just out of warranty.
    Lastly, the local Chevrolet dealership has thus far cost me $215. If I take the Tahoe back again tomarrow and they decide (by process of elimination obviously) that the cluster needs replacing it could potentially cost me $400 +/- and labor cost (I'm guessing $500 total). Overall, this could cost me $800 to get a dang electrical problem fixed. Would it be customary for chevrolet to deduct the $145 from the toal cost since they did not fix it yesterday or am I asking too much?
    Any help any of you could provide would be GREATLY appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jason
  • 2002 2wd tahoe... wondering what the max tire size i can put without rubbing and without a lift... putting 20inch rims with nitto terra grapplers... thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Whoah. Lets look at the symptoms you described and think this one through. Gauges went nuts, then car would not start. Cluster has nothing to do with the car being dead. My best guess without seeing the vehicle is that there is an electrical connection failure. Proper procedure would be to check the grounding between the battery and the engine, frame, and body. Also check the 12VDC connections at the fuse box under the hood as well as the one in the dash. This really sounds like an intermittent grounding problem as the cluster started giving crazy readings before all went dead. That can be caused by a low voltage condition, but your saying the whole vehicle went dead and then started up again would indicate that a bad ground is more likely.

    But not a bad cluster. Somebody is shot-gunning the problem and is costing you money that needn't be spent.

    If I were a betting man, I would go with a bad ground, or a loose power connection at the underhood fuse box.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I agree 100%!

    When it gives those cluster problems first and then is completely dead as you try to start it, it really sounds like a grounding problem or other loose electrical connection.

    Would they refund you some money for no good "fixes", DREAM ON.

    Service today with GM and Ford by my own experience is so bad no wonder people turn to buy Toyotas and Hondas.

    What is wrong with American car manufacturers?

    Arrie
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You might be interested in this discussion: What will it take for consumers to buy American brands??

    tidester, host
  • Thanks for your reply. I also thought about a bad connection but only checked the obvious ones. I looked for any corrosion around the Battery terminals - none and both cables are very tight. Any other grounds, I wouldn't know where to start looking. I would hope given the symptoms that I described to the mechanic that they would have also thought of a grounding problem. I thought about checking for loose or worn wires myself but when I open the hood on these new cars, it just looks like a jumbled mess to me. It sure was allot easier back when cars actually had 2 inches of free (empty) space under the hood. Since it's an intermittent problem, I give the mechanics the benefit of the doubt. In other words, when I take it in, the problem isn't happening. It has thus far started fine, no shorts, no gauges going nuts, etc. Unfortunately my Tahoe seems to only want to act up away from the shop. This leads me to agree with you that it is a short. Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check it myself nor the know how if I did. If it were the cluster, would it affect the door locks, power seat, etc? I want to be able to tell the mechanic today, "NO, it's not the cluster, check for grounding problems" I hate being on the receiving end of a mechanic shot gunning the problem.
    Thanks again, Jason
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The Tahoe actually has a computer system that runs a lot of the functions you describe. If the power to that computer is bad, everything it controls will look "bad". My first place to look is the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side on the wheel well. There are several high current power busses going through there and with it being in the hostile under hood environment I would check it carefully for corroded or loose connections.

    The cluster itself is a display unit only. It doesn't control the starting function or windows, locks, etc. Common logic (which doesn't appear to be all that common in the repair industry anymore) would dictate that multiple system failures occuring all at one time (seats, locks, windows, cluster, no start) are going to be power related. In these newer vehicles are several power distribution systems, but a mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this one out pretty quickly. The '99 and later GM trucks and SUVs had a simplified wiring system with far fewer splices and interconnects. This makes it much easier to track down as most connection problems will be at junction boxes instead of buried in the middle of a harness somewhere inside a body panel.

    If you have access to another GM dealer, you might consider a second opinion. These guys are shooting in the dark.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    There's an interesting thread in the archives about this stuff:

    Grounding Kit

    Steve, Host
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    very interesting. I laughed at the cost of $200. Back in the day, we sold Standard Ignition battery cables with a through hole lug on each end for about $2 a foot.

    I guess we should have used a fancier name.

    :surprise:
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Or you can remove the switch, clean the contacts and reinsert. 10 min. job, pop off the trim surround (all the way to the radio is one piece), remove the switch, disassemble, clean contacts, reinsert. Problem solved..
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Remember to never run the tank dry as the fuel pump is cooled by the reserve fuel. Why would you run it so that the low fuel warning light comes on anyway?
  • fjd44fjd44 Posts: 11
    Actually I did just that -- about once every eight to ten weeks. Spend the $35, do it just once.
  • The dreaded intermediate-shaft clanking is back--at least that's what I think it is--right after the my three years are up! The truck only has 30K miles on it. I had it "fixed" at around 5K miles and it was just fine... I assume the first fix was just a temporary patch until the warranty expires.

    Please please please, does anyone know of a permanent solution, or perhaps a temporary one that I can do myself. My independent mechanic says he has heard of the problem (has a Suburban himself) but doesn't know exactly what to do about it. Any information/pointers would be most appreciated.

    PS: I can grab the intermediate shaft and feel it rattle as I shake it--more towards the steering wheel than the U-joint at the bottom.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    there is a fix. . . not the one where they just lube the steering column. . . go ask your Chevy dealer. . .
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