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Chevy Tahoe



  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    U-Haul vs GM hitch shouldn't make much difference. Somewhat depends on the load your towing. the GM hitch has the plug for the trailer lights. some after market hitches don't so your left with the wiring hanging down when not towing. (or you have to tuck it way)

    Other than that make sure you get the proper class of hitch for the job. I think the GM hitch is a class 4.

  • Just picked up an 04 Tahoe 24k mi loaded with every available option except the NAVI for $27,900.

    My Question ?

    Did the DVD player come with the wireless headphones and remote ? They were not in the vehicle at delivery.
  • The gauges on my original 1995 Chev Tahoe have been acting strange. The air bag light comes on, blinks and goes off. The oil pressure gauge drops to 0 then the check gauges light comes on. Also, some of the dashboard lights have gone out....coincidental?
    Any ideas?
  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 461
    I have a question. The air filter cover in my 2005 Yukon XL (5.3) has an indicator to tell you when it needs changing. I have 9,000 miles, and as far as I can tell, it hasn't even moved from the green section. How long can I expect this filter to last? Am I reading it correctly? I seem to recall changing the air filter on my old cars around 12-15K, and they seemed very dirty. My vehicle has the "high capacity" air filter, as part of the towing prep package, whatever that is. Does that mean it will last longer, and/or breathe better?

    Also, if I upgrade to a K&N filter (just the filter, or the whole filtercharger intake kit), will that indicator still work? Will I have to disconnect it? How does it work anyway, is there some electrical connection so tat the message center on the dashboard will tell me to change it, like it does when I'm out of washer fluid?

    Just curious. Thanks for your input.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The high capacity air filter used on these vehicles is a monster and can last for a very long (50K miles under low dust conditions) time. The indicator you are looking at monitors the vacuum draw in the air intake from the filter. As the filter becomes more contaminated, the vacuum increases. When the filter is "loading up", the vacuum will reach a point that it will trip the indicator to red, and you change the filter.

    This is a two-fold benefit in that you prevent premature filter changes, and you are not opening the intake path and exposing it to loose dirt and debris. If you feel you must examine the filter, make sure to clean any loose dirt away from the housings before opening. When you see how big that filter is, and how the whole intake system is integrated, you will understand the elegance and rational behind the design. Also you may notice that there are sections of the intake that do not appear to have any function, looking like "dead-end" passages that air does not flow through. These are tuning ports in the intake to dampen resonances in the system caused by rushing air. The engine can run fine without them, but at different throttle settings you can get roaring sounds from the air flow setting up sonic resonances.

  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 461
    That is very interesting. What a smart design. I was going to ask about the "dead end" as well. I suppose I might as well not mess with the K&N thing after all.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You will find opinions on both sides of the K&N filter choice, but I have found that the original high capacity filter does a good job, and doesn't require the cleaning and oiling maintenance of the K&N.

  • I have started to look into buying a larger SUV and was wondering what other SUVs are comparable to the Expedition and price. I have seen in different forums about the Nissan Armada, GMC Envoys, and Chevy Tahoes. I am very interested in the Expedition. Just want to know the different opinions of people that have owned either or all vehicles and what the experience has been. Thanks for the input. :D
  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 461
    That's kind of an open ended question. Go back and read the boards (5800 posts and counting...), and read the professional reviews, test drives, and comparison tests. Drive them yourself, check out the pricing, and make a decision.

    People on this board will probably agree that in general, the Tahoe/Yukon drives better than the Expedition, and is way more reliable than the Armada. And that the new 2007 GM SUVS raise the bar even higher, except for some subjective styling complaints. I know people who swear by each of the vehicles you list for various reasons.

    But opinions are like, um, belly buttons ;) - everybody has one. It's your call in the end. If I were you, I would do some independent research and then come back to the forums with more specific issues to be addressed. :)
  • The dealer doesn't do aftermarket hitches and referred me to UHaul. My problem with UHaul is esthetic: I don't like the way the hitch looks. It's a long horizontal bar that hangs way below the bumper. Unlike the hitches I've seen on other Tahoes, which is well disguised behind the bumper. The dealer said this is because the hitches I've seen are factory installed. Any aftermarket hitch will look like the UHaul hitch. Is this right? Thanks.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Could be.
    Mine is factory installed and is fairly well hidden.

    Back with my 91 S-15 Jimmy, I could get two different after-market hitches. One specific for the S-15 Jimmy or a universal fit one. The Universal fit hung much lower and was very visible and $25 less.

    Do a simple check with some parts stores they should be able to tell you more about the fit of after market-hitches. Maybe the U-Haul one is more of a universal fit?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Check on Valley Hitches. They are custom fits and generally available through Pep Boys.

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Before you buy a Ford product Google "blown spark plug" and be amazed. After that go ask your 'would be' Ford dealer if they know anything about the problem.

    I had this problem with my Crown Victoria, which had the same design spark plug mounting as all 4.6 L engines at the time did.

    Mine went just two days before christmas two years ago and as Ford denied having any kind of a design problem with the engine regardless of hundreds of people writing about it in the internet I had to come up with $5000 to replace the engine. Nice Christmas present.

    One thing this experience did is that the Crown Victoria I had was my last Ford product I ever spend any money on.

    I would by a Tahoe. I travel almost 200 days per year and drive a lot of Hertz vehicles and as we know Hertz used to be owned by Ford meaning that most of the rental cars I drive are Ford products. I have had Explorers and Expeditions and I can say without any hesitation that they do not come even close to Chevrolet quality. One really annoying thing that I noticed was rattles coming from various places in the vehicles and these rental vehicles have less than 30 000 miles on them.

  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I have a 2000 Silverado with 53K miles. The filter indicator has barely moved. I bought an air filter, cab air filter and fuel filter from gmpartsdirect over 3 years ago. Haven't replace any of these yet as there has been no need to. The truck has been driven in low dust and dirt conditions. I drive the 50th AE vette mostly.
  • We had a U-Haul hitch put on and the whole process was a nightmare! They lied to us about the price, then after it was done changed the price to a WAY higher past that issue...Now 6 months later we had an electrical fire and it was all due to their faulty wiring in back. The guy did not do it correctly and after some time it finally started a fire! And yes, it does not look like a good hitch. It hangs so low that with the trailer on, it will bottom out on driveways. Once we could not even get it backed into the driveway. It was resting on the street! We had to un hook the trailer and push it into the driveway! We had to buy a special piece from U-Haul to raise the trailer a little...Another added charge! Never again! Now we will get it already on our new SUV, for sure!
  • mm450excmm450exc Posts: 37
    I have a Hidden Hitch on my Tahoe which is excellent. All Tahoes have the wiring already in place. Look for a round plug. All you need to get is an adapter to hook up your trailer.
  • larigirllarigirl Posts: 1
    I know this is a little late on your question, but I just found this website. Very useful! I just bought a 1999 Tahoe, with 105,000 miles for $7,000, and I absolutely love it 100%, so I'm hoping you went ahead and got it for yourself!!! ***Lari Lee :)
  • dmgatordmgator Posts: 2
    After having owned a 1999 and 2001 Chevy Tahoe, I will not buy another Chevy vehicle after I get rid of the current one. I have a 2001 Tahoe with only 48,000 miles and have been easy on the vehicle with all service done at the dealer. My rear brakes have squeaked and the dealer says they are fine and that is normal for metalic pads. That is ridiculous to have a part that is working squeak like that. The second thing was having to replace ABS electronic which part alone was over $900 and a total of $1,200 installed by the dealer. With pricing like that, how much are the major components like a transmission or A/C going to cost. I will not be finding out because I will be done with Chevy for good.
  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    My 2005 Yukon's wipers seem to be making noise at 65mph and higher when they are in the parked position. Seems like they are banging against the windshield. They are the Original equipment wipers.Noise goes away of I turn the wipers on

    Anyone else have this issue?

    Doesn't it sound like a reason to get rid of it for a 2007?
    The wife didn't buy that arguement either
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    "With pricing like that, how much are the major components like a transmission or A/C going to cost."

    Much more if its a import?

    A simple knock sensor for my subaru cost $260 to replace and the regular maintanence every 30K is about $550. At 90K miles I've spent $2200+ on reagular maint. and repairs (not including oil changes).

    Our 2003 Tahoe is at 45k. Zero maint. costs so far other than oil changes.

    Just a guess on the brakes, but due to limited miles it build up some surface rust on the disk/drum? Our previous van and current subaru squeaked or had a grinding noise when not driven often due to slight surface rust. Our Tahoe has the best brakes by far.

    Try a different dealer or just a local brake specialty shop.
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