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Chevy Tahoe

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Comments

  • tom213tom213 Posts: 49
    Thanks for the information. My hope is that if I raise the front/left side just a little, the right/rear will lower to create the relative side-to-side height for both front and rear. Next question is what is the process to follow? Short of having to purchase a body service manual, anyone have an idea on how to make this adjustment or a web site I could go to for instructions? THANKS....
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    I tried to reply using the e-mail link, but received a message that this service is undergoing maintenance and is currently unavailable. I'd post a link to another site here, but in the past Edmunds has frowned on linking to other forums from here. I'll try again a bit later today via the e-mail thing though.
  • Hi:Do you still have your 99 tahoe.I had the same touble with the transfer case clunking.A new stainless steel yoke was replaced under warranty.I also got the transfer case fluid changed with auto trac fluid as there's a TSB on this.It lasted about two years but now it's back.All the GM dealership will do is lubricate the yoke and file any burrs on the end of the yoke but that only fixes the problem for a couple of weeks.GM claims this is a common trouble that won't hurt anything.Somehow i don't believe that,maybe it's time to change the transfer fluid again but i only have about 30,000 km since it was changed last.
  • nhallnhall Posts: 2
    For the past month my 2001 Tahoe will die when I am slowing down coming to a stop or putting it in gear and taking off. This has happened between 6-8 times. The battery and its connections have been checked and are fine, so I am wondering what could be the problem? Any ideas?
  • dangar64dangar64 Posts: 6
    It has been known that when this problems occur, you need to check the gas filter and the EGR vale. I had this problem and the EGR valve was full of carbon. You can clean it but it is recommended to replace it with a new one. Also clean as much as you can where the EGR valve sits. Hope this helps you
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Posts: 112
    I just purchased and installed the Bully Dog Gas Power Pup on my 2004 Tahoe Z71, 5.3L Vortex engine.

    It is amazing. I can only tell you right now that the HP increase is awesome. I haven't had it on long enough to drive that many miles to tell you if it helps with the mpg or not, I sure hope it does.

    I use 91 Octane because my Tahoe performs a lot better with the higher Octane and gets better mpg with the higher Octane. Of course I have to pay the extra for the 91 Octane compared to 87, but in the long run it is worth it. Anything that will allow the engine to run better and last longer. My Tahoe’s Rev Limiter was set at 95 mph. I was able to raise this to 135 mph. Not that I will drive 135 mph. It is nice to have the extra power. I did check it out prior to raising it and it was true, set at 95mph stock, and after installing the program I tried it out and lets just say at 110 mph I still had at least a 1/2 pedal left when I let up on the pedal. The Programmer has 3 different power levels. Stock, Tow and Performance. Tow is for better fuel economy and is where I have it set at right now. I tried it out on Performance and was awe struck. The power increase and HP with WOT is out of this world. You can set the programmer for the Octane level that you use 91, 89 or 87. Raise or Lower the Trans Shift points, Tune the engine for Stock, Tow or Performance. It has a few other programs on it also and will also check your vehicle for any codes and clear them. Also the Bully Dog can be up-graded. Mine already had an upgrade for it the day I purchased it. It was simple to do. Basically plug the programmer into your computer and download the upgrade program. It is free and doesn’t cost a penny to upgrade. I would recommend the Bully Dog Programmer over Hyper-Tech, Jet, Jegs, Predator, or any other one out there. I researched and read all the above programs and comments posted on the Internet from people who unfortunately bought one of them and had problems and were not satisfied. I can’t wait until this summer when I hook up my trailer and see how the programmer works towing. I did notice that without the trailer hooked up and pushing the tow mode button on the shift lever gave it a lot more power and performance.

    I do have a few other upgrades on my Tahoe. I have the K&N 5700 Series Cold Air Intake System, MSD Super Conductor 8.5-mm plug wires, E3 Plugs, and I have put on the MAG-HYTEC Transmission pan and Rear Differential Cover. I run 0Wx30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 80Wx90 Full Synthetic Gear Oil and Full Synthetic Dexron III Transmission fluid. I’ve recently had both Differentials serviced. Transmission serviced and my Transfer case service also with the Auto Trac II.

    I do have a couple questions. Someone posted that the EGR valve builds up a lot of carbon in it? Where is this located at on the 5.3L? Also, the fuel filter. I’ve looked for it on the driver’s side right below the back and front door on the frame. This is where I was told the inline fuel filter is located. The only thing that I see there is a small black and silver container with electrical lines and what appear to be fuel lines going into and out of, possible an external fuel pump. I do not see any fuel filter there. I’ve looked all up and down on both sides of the frame and still can not find an inline fuel filter. Does anyone know where it might be? Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    That thing with the fuel lines running in and out of is the fuel filter.

    You do understand that GM put in the SPEED LIMITER for a reason right? Unless you've upgraded your tires, I don't suggest exceeding the 95 mph, unless you want to go the route of an Explorer.

    Ditto for the rev limiter. Exceed the revs which is 6k and you will notice that your Tahoe will start to stutter. Being that yours is a 2004 warranty concerns shouldn't be an issue.

    One last thing, why didn't you just install a supercharger. It comes with the programming updates plus approximately a 100-150 hp increase? Just curious.
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Posts: 112
    I'm only posting this because I don't want any more dumb suggestions or quetions please.

    Fuel filters do NOT have electircal lines coming out of them. They do not look like electric fuel pumps.

    I'm making as many upgrades as possible without spending and arm and leg to do it. I'm trying to push out as many mpg as I can get from my Tahoe. The added power and performance is just an added benifit if and when I might need it, ie. towing my trailer. I've been driving for 30 years and don't feel the need for speed, I choose to drive slow and keep my RPM's below 2k. Always, even from a complete stop, I never allow my engine to tach above 2k. This does save fuel and gives you better mpg.

    Please read my post carefully if you want to respond back to it.

    Thank you
  • nhallnhall Posts: 2
    I WILL LOOK INTO THIS RIGHT AWAY, I REALLY APPRECIATE THE HELP!!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Hi johnny4016,

    Very interesting post. I thought to purchase a programmer, a different brand that you did, but had some concern about it as installation of the program requires disabling the ON-Star etc. for the time of installation.

    What concerned me the most was the fact that my '04 Tahoe LT came with the Flex Fuel engine, i.e. the Z-engine or L59 I think it also is known by.

    My question to you is if you have that same engine? If you do then that black and silver container with wires going in it might be the Flex Fuel sensor, i.e. the sensor that tells the on board PCM how much alcohol your fuel has as it adjusts spark timing based on that.

    Newer vehicles use oxygen sensor signal for determining the fuel type but I think '04 models still use the Flex Fuel sensor.

    How did the installation go? Did you have to disable On-Star (if you have one)? How much did the Bully Dog cost and where did you get it from?

    The EGR valve - I don't think you have one. I don't and I think yours don't either.

    Fuel filter location I don't know. Have not looked for it but could it be integrated to that black and silver container, i.e. it would be a fuel filter and Flex Fuel filter together?

    Arrie
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    johnny4016,

    Just for curiosity I put the front of my '04 Tahoe LT on ramps to crawl under it to see where the fuel filter might be.

    What I found was a round, about 4 inches long and 2.5 - 3 inches in diameter steel or probably aluminum cylinder mounted in the fuel line. At one end fuel line connects with quick connection, other end (fuel tank side) connects with threaded connectors.

    It is located on driver's side right on front of the ABS control module. I think it is made of aluminum because it does not have any paint on it but has not rust on it either. Well, it could also be made of stainless steel...

    I believe this cylinder is the fuel filter.

    From this cylinder the fuel line goes to the thing that you said in your post to have wires going to it and you were guessing if it is an external fuel pump or something. This thing I think is the Flex Fuel Sensor that measures alcohol content in the fuel. It has a 3-wire connector on bottom of it and it looks almost exactly as on the internet page that the link below takes you to.

    http://www.flexiblefuelcars.org/ffv_fuel_sensor.html

    Arrie
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Is johnny still here?

    The fuel filter is where its been since 1999. No brain surgery there.
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Posts: 112
    I appreciated all the comments, good and not so.

    I own the 5.3L Gas vehicle, "T".

    As many of you have said, the fuel filter is located on the driver’s side under the driver’s door on the frame. My brother in-law also said the same and he has over 25 years working as a mechanic at a Chevy Dealership.

    So I again yesterday evening laid down and looked up in this area. I probed all along the ABS sensors, top, sides and bottom. Sorry guys, but there is no fuel filter there. The only thing there is the ABS system. I know what they, fuel filters looked like, I even went and purchased one that is suppose to be for my vehicle, this way I would be able to see exactly what it looks like. No Brain Surgery. I will say that I am the 2nd owner and quit possible the 1st owner made some type of upgrade that I'm not aware of, or the manufacture just figured that the filter in the tank attached to the fuel pump was good enough and did not put an inline fuel filter on my Tahoe.

    The Bully Dog installation was really easy. You should check for any updates prior to installing the program onto your vehicle. It is simple so long as you have a little computer knowledge. After updating your Bully Dog and pulling out the appropriate fuses your ready to go. On my Tahoe I had to pull 4 fuses under the hood and about 5 in the cab. These fuses will disable your On-Star temporary and a few other programs so the bully dog program will not be interrupted. The manual that comes with the programmer tells you exactly which fuses to pull and where they are located. No Brain Surgery needed. Then making sure that all your toys are unplugged from any power outlets inside you vehicle and all your doors are closed, you then plugs in the programmer. From there you follow the steps and in 5 minutes you’re done. The programmer has three different power levels for the gas vehicle. The Diesel vehicle has a lot more options and gives you better performance and mpg. I have noticed at least 2/3 more mpg on my Tahoe with the program in the Tow mode. The performance mode has too much power and even with a light foot, it still raises you shift point up too high and waste fuel. But if you’re still a kid and like to drive fast or race then the performance mode is what you’re looking for. I think that I will reprogram the transmissions shift point on mine. Right now I have the shift point in tow mode. I'm thinking about putting it back to the stock mode until I hook my trailer up. I'll leave all the other settings in the tow mode for better fuel economy. I paid $359.00 plus tax, which came to a total of $388.00. I purchased mine through an independent shop in Lancaster Calif. I'm going to check on the price for my brother in-laws truck today. On-line they are asking anywhere from $50.00 to $100.00 or more for the same programmer. If your thinking about buying a programmer for your vehicle I suggest that you do as I did and spend a couple of weeks searching the web and reading all about all of the programmers and other peoples post. This is what I did and is one of the reasons why I choose the Bully Dog Programmer. The updater on it alone was well worth the price. The updater is also FREE. Some of the other programmers out there do not have the ability to be updated and you’re stuck with what they put on it. That's not that good as we all know computers are always being updated.

    I appreciated all the comments, good and not so.
    :shades:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    brother-in-law point it out to you?
  • porageporage Posts: 2
    Bought Dragon Eye Headlight projectors. They werent even in a month and the bulb blew out. Called cheaptruckparts.com (dont ever buy anything from there bc i swear a guy runs it out of his mom's basement, or at least it seems like it) and they won't do anything for me and couldn't even tell me what kind of bulb it uses. The lens itself says H4 so i ordered them and they were way too big. Just wondering if anyone else has these and could tell me what size would fit and where to get them. Thanks
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Posts: 46
    We are planning to purchase a 2000-2006 Tahoe/Yukon. Given these are all the same model, are there any significant differences I should be aware of? We would be getting it with four wheel drive, LT or SLT, and the 5.3L.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Buy the latest model you can afford. The 2006 is your best bet. GM got most of the 'bugs" out by '06 plus the '06 has the Stabilitrac feature which congress just mandated to be installed on every new car by 2012 and almost all these later models have the flex fuel engine so you can burn up to 85% Ethanol (E85) if you so choose....and can find somewhere to buy it.
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Posts: 46
    Thank you. I could afford a new 2007 but that is not the point. I can get a 2001 or 2004 SLT/LT with 60K+ for 15K. Therefore, those are the years I am looking at. However, if there is a sig. diff. between a 2001 and 2004, I will narrow my search.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I'm not sure when the body style changed but if '01 model is with the smooth 'back corners' you probably want to at least get a model year with the body style before the '07.

    I would look for a '04-06 LT model. I have an '04 LT.

    One reason to stay with newer end is that I think all '04 models (and newer) came with ON-Star that can receive new digital signal that some older models can't. Analog receivers are junk at the end of this year.

    Arrie

    --Ari--
  • johnny4016johnny4016 Posts: 112
    If you can afford to pay a little more, I might suggest a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. These come with all the luxuries and Off Road Equipment, 4x4, skid plate, heavy-duty trans., etc.

    For the most part I have been extremely happy with mine. I did have to have the odometer R&R. But that was covered under warranty so I'm not complaining.

    I like mine because it is good looking and also is durable enough to tow trailers, boats and go 4 wheeling just about anywhere. Believe me I have done all of the above and enjoyed every minute. Then a wash-job later some tire cleaner and vacuumed out and you’re driving in style.

    I have added a few extra items onto mine since I bought it, but that is only because I do like to do all that I can with my Tahoe. So I want it to last. I've had the Transmission Pan and Rear Differential Cover replaced with MAG-HYTEC Pan and Cover. I also use Full Synthetic Trans fluid and Gear Oil. Doing all of the above will keep the wear and tear down and allow you to tow and 4 wheel without worrying.

    I have also recently added the Bully Dog Gas Power Pup, MSD Super Conductor Plug Wires, and E3 Plugs, 0Wx30 Mobile 1-engine oil. I have done all of this to get better mpg and to have more power when towing my trailer or 4 wheeling. I also recently purchased the Trailer Brake Controller for it. It was simple to install, basically all you have to do is plug it in under your dash.

    My Tahoe already had the 6" Full Traction Lift Kit, Center Line Rims, 305X70R16 Wide Dunlop Tires, Tow Package and Billet Grill on it when I bought it.

    For all those who have commented on my previous post about the fuel filter. The 2004 do not have an inline fuel filter. The dealership verified this. The only fuel filter it has is the one in the tank hooked up to the fuel pump.

    Some Tahoe’s do have a fuel filter on the left side rail just under the drivers door next to the ALB System and yet other Tahoe’s according to the Chiltons manual have it located on the right side back by the fuel tank.

    Another thing about the 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 is that there is no EGR Valve and no PVC Valve. The location where the EGR valve would be is empty and the vacuum hose going into the valve cover does not have Positive Crank Ventilation on it. These are only some of the things that I have found on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. I'm sure that there are even more things that I have yet to discover.

    Maybe this is one reason why my Tahoe runs so good. It doesn't have a lot of garbage on it.

    I have heard a lot of bad thing about the newer Tahoe’s. Problems, problems and even more problems. I think that Chevy worked out most of the bugs by the time the 2004 were produced. Then they had to start in with changing the way the engine operates from a 4 cylinder to an 8 cylinder, etc and there seems to be even more bugs that they have to work out all over again. No thank you. I will keep my 2004 running like new and R&R parts when it becomes necessary for it to be done.
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