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Chevy Tahoe

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  • clifmvclifmv Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Z-z1 Tahoe and the 4x4 system was working great until yesterday. I have 124,000 miles on the truck. Several months ago the smell from the front diff. was smelling....just awful. I have the FD oil changed and thought all was good until yesterday. I put the truck into auto 4 and heard a hum that I never heard before. Mechanic showed me while the truck was up on the rack how the front diff. was moving slightly on driver's side. Also that in 4 HIGH the noise was evident on the rack while the car was engaged. Cost $2300.00 for a complete rebuild of front diff. and install. Is that considered normal cost. In Arizona
  • I heard a few years back they recalled the steering wheels on 1995-1997? tahoes/suburbans/etc. due to squeaking when u would turn the wheel. Mine has that issue, and didn't know if since it was never fixed, if it would be covered by a recall from several years ago? I have no knowledge of recall rules, etc. so that's why I'm asking.

    1995 2 dr.tahoe 4x4 205k
  • Did you ever get a response on this? We are having the same problem! :confuse:
  • We just bought a used 1999 Sub. We can find the child safety locks on the rear doors. Does this truck not come with this feature? I would think that a 99 would have these locks!
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did you mean to say "We can't find the . . ."
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you check the owners manual?

    I'm trying to remember whether my '97 had them. I thought they did, but we didn't really ever use that setting in any of our vehicles, so don't know for sure.
  • I have found that many late 90's - 2000 Tahoes and Suburbans have this same problem. Anyone hear of any inexpensive repair for it? The problem, apparently, is that the motor inside, hits the side of the case, causing a small hole. I was at the transmission shop today, and the tech. had a stack of them he showed me, all with the same hole in the same spot.
  • I have owned since new a 1996 Tahoe 2dr. w/6.5 turbo diesel. The only option I didn't get was the push button 4 wheel drive. Does anyone know how many of these were built? Mine has 130,000 miles and is a great vehicle. Mileage on the road is 17 -18 MPG. I call it a stump puller because of the power. It has taken the back seat to my Silverdo 6.6 Dura-Max but people still look in awh when they see it is diesel.
  • Hey man, I've been having the same problem. I'd really like to get this fixed because, while it apparently doesn't pose a serious mechanical threat(since mine's been doing this for nearly 5,000 miles), it is extremely annoying and embarrassing. I'm changing out my u-joints soon and will let you know if that's the problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The post you replied to, was 4 1/2 years ago. Good chance he doesn't even have the vehicle anymore!
  • fixitrodfixitrod Posts: 67
    edited March 2011
    This is usually the case in the longer trucks that unlike most vehicles which wear the front brakes out (as you break weight goes forward...more stress on front system) but in the XL/Suburban they get the back more often especially if you have ride leveling. I am on 3:1 ratio.
    Now the shorter Tahoes/Yukons unless you have ride leveling should act like most vehicles. Hope this gives you some piece of mind
  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 429
    I keep seeing internet ads for Chevy that indicate you can get 9-passenger seating in LTZ trim. Yet can only spec out the LS model with the front bench seat on their website. Anybody know what the deal is? I'd love to have a Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, YXL with leather and gadgets along with the front bench seat. Misprinted ad, perhaps?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    AFAIK you can't get a bench seat in front on a LTZ.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Ahightower,

    73shark is correct; the front bench seat is not available on the 2011 Tahoe with the LTZ trim level. This bench seat is only available on the LS trim level of this vehicle.

    Michelle P., GM Customer Service (assisting Christina)
  • mls1185mls1185 Posts: 4
    newrockies.com has modules to disable the theft-lock systems.
  • ngail66ngail66 Posts: 1
    I was once a proud owner of my 2003 Chevy Tahoe, but I started having problems with my gauges on my dash not working properly. I never know what speed I am actual traveling, if my oil gauge is correct, etc. I called my dealer to check on a recall and of course they told me that they did not know of any, so my husband bought our truck to Chevyland dealership here in Shreveport, LA and he was told that it would cost $600 dollars to fix the problem and of course I think that GM ought to pay for the cost of the repair but they won't because my truck as over 200,000 miles on it. Then my A/C and door locks started acting up on my lately, due to the answer I got from the dealer and GM I am not even going to bother taking it to them, but I was going to purchase a 2011 suburban in September of this year and now you can bet your bottom dollar that I will not. I have decided to buy a toyota instead. You would think that after we the tax payers help bail out GM that they would show more appreciation towards their loyal customers, but I guess it's all about making the mighty dollar at that moment and not about keeping a lifetime customer, especially when I have five children and we bought them all brand new Chevrolet from the cobalt to the malibu and now my husband and I have decided to allow each of our children to trade their cars in for toyota and honda' s. Our younger son has all ready gotten a 2011 honda civic, our baby daughter has gone with a toyota corolla S and so has my mother who was a proud owner of a chevy van. So GM what do you think about losing thousands of dollars from our family (8 family members have all ready switched). I think we as consumers need to take a stand and tell GM to stand behind their products or else pay the piper. Let's see what help they will get when they go under again.
    ngail66
  • jdhchijdhchi Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my dashboard on my 205,000 mile 2003 Suburban. I was able to get my local Dealer to take care of it for $100 plus the part which I think was $350. Bottom line yes they have a business to run too. Its not only about making money its about customer satisfaction can't have one without the other especially today. I was not happy about it either BUT I was happy with the break in costs, the results and the guarantee I paid for. Im curious how you would have thought GM should cover the hard dollar expenses associated with a 8-year old vehicle? AND if this is the only major expenses (defined as above $500) you have had with the vehicle you're way ahead of the game! You need to look at it this way…regardless of the car you own its always good policy from day one to think "I need to put aside $20 per month for future repairs" in 3-yrs thats $720 in 5-yrs thats $1200 in 7-yrs thats $1680 because inevitably you will have repairs that cost you money. Its call pride of ownership. Yes, no one wants to believe after paying $40K+ for these depreciating assets (daily drivers are not 401K's) that you will have to continue to spend money on it but you will. At the end of the day IF you have $55K into the vehicle after all expenses, ie interest on the money (yep borrowed money is not free), cost of the vehicle, repairs along the way, etc thats still only $0.275 cents per mile! On average it cost $0.58 cents a mile to drive a new car today! You're better off then most people who flip cars every three-to-five years thinking its a wise financial move…thanks to those that do because thats when I buy them! I'm done buying new vehicles…I have learned my lesson that after spending $500K (Remember thats POST TAX dollars) on cars over the last 20-years (yes, I was one of those that bought higher end vehicles and flipped them every three years-smart me) I'm driving the last new purchase, my 2003 Suburban, until it just stops. Its been a great vehicle, gas mileage aside, yes there have been repairs matter-of-fact just yesterday I had the alternator (original equipment) go out which cost me $175 and two hours total time including trip to Autozone and back and its back on the road! Unless you're on the "List" that list of people with 1-3 year buying cycles (yes there is a list) you're not considered a "platinum" customer (with any car dealership) and nor should you be. After all you stopped paying their light bill after your last new car purchase! Btw, that whopping $500-$1500 they made on your purchase only goes so far and what do you think it cost to keep the lights on at a 200,000sf store/facility? Try $50K-$100K+ per month! So yes, its just like any other business treat the customers fairly, with respect and courtesy BUT don't let them keep drinking free coffee! Thats what the bank is for! :) One last note, if you're really interested in making a statement DON'T buy any new cars…that only helps drive pricing up! One more last statement….that Chevy dealership you have moved away from is more than likely not owned by GM but by a local family or sole proprietor classified as a small business owner. They don't make cars they sell and fix them…its the way they earn living…I'm sure they were will willing to fix your car for a fair price but why would they pull money out of their pockets to do so? They would not…its business 101…good luck!
  • My brother drove my 2 door tahoe one day, gave it back and said a fuse popped. I think it was the accessory fuse in the interior fuse panel...it keeps the door locks, mirrors, and power seats from working. He replaced the dealer fuse (12 bucks) and said it worked...he then moved the seat again and it blew the fuse. I replaced the seats with seats out of a 99 burb...and they work fine (picked up another 12 buck fuse out of the salvage car). However, the door locks and mirrors don't work. I wouldn't think both actuators would go out at the same time as well as mirrors going out completely (they needed replaced anyway, but i don't care about them). Anyone know if it is electrical issue? Why would that fuse allow seats to work but doors not to work? I appreciate anyone's insight :)
  • Looking to purchase a certified 2008 Chevy Tahoe LTZ with less than 48K miles on it. I live in the NY metro area and all the dealer seem to have a standard asking price of 34K. I was wondering if anybody out there knew the true market value/actual selling price of this vehicle???? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank-You
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Edmunds, Kelley's Blue Book, NADA, and AutoTrader for a start. Might check CarMax also.
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