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Chevy Tahoe

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Comments

  • I'm going to order a new Yukon XL. I have a 4500 lb boat to haul and may want to pull a 8000lb trailer next year. I,m thinking of moving up to the 2500 Yokon XL and ording the 8.1L Vortec engine. I can't find any information on the large engine, gas mileage under normal conditions, Can anyone help me. jjorgensen
  • Check the GMC YukonXL/ChevySuburban page. There is a guy with an 8.1 L engine his screen name is vinnie6, ask him for real world mileage. With the 8.1L engine you have to get autoride. The new model will have the same ride as the old model 1/2 ton. I am not sure but have heard to expect 11.5 GPM. A friend at the local dealership said that the new 5 speed auto will be available next year, but would not confirm it. This should get about 15 MPG, if it becomes reality. Talk to your local dealer about it. The 8.1L has 340 HP @ 4200 RPM, and 455 ft/lbs @ 3200 RPM. If you are going to tow that 8K pound trailer better get the 4.10 gears in the rear end.
  • cody17cody17 Posts: 11
    My radio has the same controls as yours. The number 5 changes from one disc to the next.
    Sorry, I don't remember Rickwood's hours.
  • FYI; Had the drivers rear window motor/regulator replaced moons ago. Window failed again on trip to Sedona AZ. Drove over buckboard road and it starts working again. Argument for flat rotor/stator. Hope it fails again under warranty. Will drive smoothly to dealers if and when!
  • Agree with most of what I've heard about the motor. However, you don't need the 4.10 rearend unless you plan on pulling EXTREMELY heavy loads.
    The 8.1 with the 3.73 rearend is rated to pull a load of 10,900 lbs. More than adequate to pull a 8000lb boat. The 4.10 is rated at 12,000lbs. The lower gear ratio(numerically) should help a little with gas mileage. By the way, the 6.0 motor is only rated to pull 8300lbs with the 3.73 and 10,300lbs with the 4.10.
    I've had many 454/3.73 3/4ton Suburbans in the past, and all have been able to pull any RV I've hooked up behind. I presently pull a 35' camper.
    Anxiously waiting for my 2001 Suburban with the 8.1 and 3.73 ratio. Dealer said it shipped last week.
  • Forgot part of the last sentence from post 625. Should have read like this, sorry. If you are going to tow an 8K pound trailer better get the 4.10 gears if you choose the 6.0L. The numbers from buster27 are accurate only for 2WD. the 3/4 ton 4WD with 6.0L/4.10 combo is rated at 10,000 lbs. I am getting my numbers right out of the brochure.
  • Hi

    I have found a 1997 Tahoe LT that I would like to purchase. While the truck drives as straight as an arrow, the wind noise happens to be very loud. Is this normal for this car or is it possible that this is a symptom of a larger problem? any input would help me thanks.
  • Hi....

    Looking for advice......I have the barn doors on my 2000 Yukon. I really like the concept as opposed to the tailgate, however, the rear windows really get messed up from road spray during wet weather.....to the point I can't see anything! GMC, as of yet, has not come up with a washer system on the barn doors. Does anyone have any answers to this one? Is there some kind of after-market air deflector that might work? Thanks!
  • I plan on ordering a Yukon (NOT XL) and will never ever tow anything. Is there any reason to buy the Autoride option? Thanks in advance for any help!
  • Try an air deflector. I had one on my Astro, did wonders for the visability out the back especially in the rain. I know they are very different,but it is always a problem with flat rear ended vehicles. This is why I got the liftgate with the wiper. Try here to see what I am talking about. http://www.autostyles.com/gtsrearwindowdeflectors.htm


    Hope it helps.

  • Go for the autoride!! Makes a HUGE difference in ride. Feels like a Caddy! I have it on my 3/4 to XL and I Love it, makes it ride like a dream, just floats over the bumps even in the pothole ridden state of Michigan. Worth every penny! A lot of dealers are now offering employee discounts even to non-employees to move inventory, so take about 15-18% off of options. Best overall advise is to take one without and with for a test drive. You will really notice the difference in ride and handeling capability. This may however take some calling around to see who has what, and avoid driving all over. If you are thinking of a 4WD model try out a Denali.
  • Might buy a Tahoe or Suburban after I get out of school wondering if the console between the seats can be removed? My dad bronco has a space between the front seats and it is a perfect spot for my hound, just wondering if you can take out the console so a dog can lay there
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    A cheaper alternative is keep RainX on the windows. The secret to successful application is to start with an exceptionally clean window. Use a good window cleaner, then dry, dry, dry the glass. Apply product according to the directions, use a damp rag to wipe the fog off, then dry, dry. This should last for a least a month or several washings. I have used the product for years on all exterior glass.
  • Yes, the center console is quite easy to remove. I took mine out to install a subwoofer in that location. All you have to do is unbolt the seats, remove about 6 screws and the center console pops right out.
  • I have a 2000 Yukon with the Tow Package & Auto ride:
    I am buying a cargo trailer with electric brakes.
    Do I need to buy a brake controller?
    Wire harness? (dealer item)
    Can I hook this up myself?
    Thanks,
    Jeff

    p. s. 20,000 miles no troubles
  • Yes, you do need a controller. You can hook it up, when you got the Yukon it should have had a harness with a plug on one side and nothing on the other. Should be in the glove box or console. That is the harness that hooks up to the brake controller and plugs in under the dash. If you got it used and it didn't have the harness you can get one from your local dealer. If you are not sure how it all hooks up take the harness and controller to a hitch installer to have it wired up. You should take the whole package with you to the installer, Yukon trailer and controller. They can do the connections and hook up the trailer harness to the plug for the back of your Yukon. I would expect to pay around $100-$150, with the controller, for the total install. It should only take about 30-45 min with an appointment. You will notice the difference in stopping power with the trailer brakes. They are also adjustable as far as power goes, you can "tune" it for what ever load you have in the trailer, empty or full. This can be very helpful on an exit ramp that circles, it will keep your trailer from pushing you around.
  • Just an FYI but my 99 Tahoe 4wd came down with transmission problems yesterday just like my boss's 99 suburban. Valve body has to be replaced, $975, argued them down to $731 and have the lease mgr. and the salesman eating $130 to get it down to $600 which is what the extended warranty would have cost. That was my arguement.
    Why can't Chevy/GM get this right? These vehicles have a bad rep around here (NC) for tranny problems. I never even towed any thing or had a load in it.
  • I bought a Yukon SLT 4x4 in September, before the Denali was available. I am interested in finding out a way to see if I could upgrade the exterior of the truck. Front grill, wheels, back bumper. I am not interested in doing the engine and WAD system, just the exterior part of the truck. If anyone has information or knows who I can get in touch with, it would be a big help
  • It hasn't been fun. The lights in my '00 Tahoe LS DO NOT TURN ON all the time (interior, exterior lights turn on all the time) nor does the HomeLink transmitter during this short phase after pressing the remote lock/unlock, the rear windows of course had to be replaced with another window motor, the engine has died TWICE at an intersection, and now, to top it off, I get a recall notice from our dear friends at Chevy claiming that I may be affected by a recall affecting braking. T've had Chevy vehicles all of my life ('89 Blazer K2, '97 Venture, and now the '00 Tahoe), never this many problems, I'm wondering WHY? and is anyone else experiencing these same woes as I? Thanks all, and no the problem behind the lights is not the "Dome override". It just flat out works OCCASIONALLY. Thanks all
  • gnodagnoda Posts: 1
    Just bought a 01' Tahoe and I want to put a cargo liner in back. The problem is I have and use the third row seats most of the time. The manufactor says you can cut out the cargo liner to fit with the third row seats. I was wondering if anybody else has tried this, or if someone has a better suggestion for putting a cargo liner in with the third row seats.
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