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Chevy Tahoe



  • greenhgreenh Posts: 3
    I have two rattles in my 2000 Denali, which 5 trips to the dealer have not cured. I was wondering if anyone else had similar experience and a clue to possible solutions. The first rattle is in the front passengers window area, and sounds like the glass is flexing. Turning a corner or hitting a bump will cause this "chucking" sound in the glass. On less than smooth secondary roads, the noise is continuous. Dealer has adjusted everything associated with the window with no success. The second rattle is a true rattle - somewhere in the very back of the interior - either in the barn doors or right side - which manifests itself when the car is cold, and last about 10 minutes. Any clues would be much appreciated.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    I have a 2001 DXL (therefore can't provide much help on the post regarding the 2000 Denali rattles since it is an entirely different vehicle). I am getting 12.5 mpg with the 6.0L and AWD on the trip computer. I am hopeful that the fuel economy will improve as the engine breaks in.
  • airball50airball50 Posts: 13
    With the stock rims and tires on my 2000 Tahoe, I got anywhere from 12-19 mpg, depending on where I was driving. I tend to do alot of freeway driving, but when I would do alot of in town driving, my mileage was right around 13-15, so yours seems a little low relative to what I was getting. I put bigger rims and tires and lost about 1-2 mpg. Hope that helps.
  • nsxwesnsxwes Posts: 84
    I have a 2000 Yukon with the 5.3L motor and about 12,000 miles. Best gas mileage has been 16.8 mpg with an average of about 12.5 mpg. Any around town stuff and the mileage drops accordingly.

  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    yes, I have a 2000 GMC ext cab, and I have the same little clicking rattle coming from around the top drivers door hinge area. Touch the brake and you get a click, turn, and get a click. On a smooth road, nothing, bumpy road, you get dozens.

    Note: I put oil on the adjuster rod pivot that turns the interior lights on and off,(it is located below the top hinge) and the door clicked like crazy. I believe it has something to do with that rod. I am going to put a big rubber band around it and the door hinge and see it tension stops the noise. Please, it you fix yours, reply back.
  • onalaskaonalaska Posts: 21
    My 2000 Yukon 5.3L 2WD 3.42 rear axle has about 24,000 miles on it now. After about 3,000 miles the gas mileage has averaged about 17.5 MPG. Worst mileage has been about 15.5 MPG with a lot of city driving, best mileage was 22 MPG with all highway driving in Colorado with the A/C off.

  • I have a 2000 Yukon, 5.3L, 4WD with about 16000 miles. So far, worst fuel economy was about 13.5 mpg when driving through the snow country in Vermont mostly in 4WD. Best mileage has been 18.8 mpg going all highway, no A/C, in 2WD. Average over the whole 16000 miles has been about 16.9 with at least 65% city driving. My gas mileage was not affected by the cold temps.
  • dan176dan176 Posts: 1
    Having read many threads on the vibration/harmonic distortion problem with the 2000 Suburbans, I was curious if any of these vibration or noise distortion problems are present on the 2001 Tahoes? Are there any other known issues for the 2000 or 2001 Tahoes that a new buyer should be aware of?

  • bberardbberard Posts: 2
    I've checked with my dealership as recently as last week about the 5.3 L stalling problem and they blew me off. If someone could come up with the bulletin number or any other info I can give them, I would appreciate it. I'm bringing it in next week for the brake recall. I've also experienced the brake fade 2 times (last Fall) but didn't have it checked at the time. I was braking slightly heavy for a stop sign, at a slight dip in the road, the abs kicked in and the brakes softened but still stopped ok. I will have it checked out now that I've seen it mentioned here.
  • edad333edad333 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2001 Chevy Tahoes which came with P245/75R16 tire sizes. I now want to put on P265/60R17 wheels and tires. I was told by a service representative at a Chevy dealer that if I put on this size tires that it would throw my speedometer off, could lock up my transmission, and it would void my extended warranty. Does anyone know if any of this is true?
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    I'd say the dealer is tossing you a load of crap. The Denali's all come with 17" wheels. Yes, the speedometer will be off but it can be recalibrated by the dealer or purchasing a Hypertech III (around $340 or so). I highly doubt the 'transmission will lock up'...unbelieveable what these people will tell customers. As for the extended warranty...ask him if the Denali's don't have an extended warranty available because of the 17" wheels.

  • There are a lot of people who are running wheel sizes up to 18", and nobody has reported any transmission lock-ups. You must either ask the dealer to reprogram you computer for the new tire size, or buy a hypertech unit and do it yourself. If you don't reprogram, you will definitely through off the computer, speedometer, and odometer, and you also give the dealer a reason not to honor the warranty on the power train. I have heard of some people reporting a little bit of a rougher ride when they upgraded to the new wheels. Another thing to keep in mind is the wheel travel in the wells. If you plan on doing any off-roading, or drive over lots of potholes, the top of the tire may impact the top of the wheel well, potentially causing some damage or a loss of control. I am not sure of the exact amount of wheel travel with the new springs on the Yukon...
  • coffey3coffey3 Posts: 2
    I see that some people have wrote in saying that
    they have no problems with their Tahoes or Yukons
    I think that the 2000 are the ones who have the
    problems, 2001 your safe b/c they have fixed the
    problems, so bless you, I did write in that I had
    problems with my back air conditioner, I picked it
    up today, ( which took a week to get back) then
    I needed to use my heater, well, guess what,
    It doesn't work know, so it's off to the shop agian in the morning, Oh! what fun, this is only my 6-7 time to be their, they know me by name up there now, that's sad, someone ask me about my fuel pump, I knew something was wrong with it b/c
    it was making a loud humming/buzzing sound near my
    gas tank, they replaced it and we have no noise,
  • madecynmadecyn Posts: 1
    I had the same vibration problem with my 2000 Tahoe between 65-75 MPH. As expected, the dealership did the same things I have read from other owners who posted the same problem to this discussion forum: checked tire pressure, balanced tires, switched tires, blamed it on the running boards I had installed in Dec 2000 (I brought the Tahoe in July 2000, which is when I noticed the problem), and the obvious thing of telling me that I was not feeling anything, it was just me. I had to go out on the road with the mechanic to point out the vibration because for some reason when you say the word "vibration" to a mechanic, they think the steering wheel is suppose to shake uncontrollably. Anyone with this same problem knows this is not how it is. THE FIX: the mechanic finally put the Tahoe on some type of diagnostic machine that measures and evaluates everything in your car that is rotating -- with this machine, he was able to narrow the problem down to the shims, which are some part of the suspension system (my male friend told me what shims for autos are because I've only known them to be used for windows and doors). Supposedly, the shims act in the same manner in the suspension system as a shim does for a door or window. I hope this helps EVERYBODY I have seen writing about this problem in this forum.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Tire size will knock off the speedo/odometer, and if not corrected will only result in a ticket for speeding. The dealer that I purchased my Yukon XL form has several pickups with aftermarket tires and wheels on them for sales reasons, they just roll them into the service bay and have the guy hook up the "Tech 2" computer to it and set the new tire size and bingo, back to reality for all the readings. Takes about 5-10 minutes. If you get a chance to talk to the technician you could probably slip him a 10 spot to do it for you, the computer is hand held and powered from the vehicles aldl connector. So he could just go out into the parking lot and do it there. Dealer will be none the wiser and you save 40-50 bucks. Good luck.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I was reading the owners manual on my Yukon XL and discovered that there is a passenger compartment air filter. It filters incoming air for dirt and dust. It is located on the passenger side right under the glove box. This is exactly where everyone says the problem is. If the closeout panel is missing or installed wrong it may be the cause of all the cold air problems, and would also explain why not everyone has this problem. FYI I found the information in the manual for the 2001 Yukon/ Yukon XL page 6-20. The Denali XL may be in a different spot in the manual, so check the index under filter-passenger compartment. Keep us posted if you find this to be the trouble spot. I checked mine and it is installed correctly, and I have no cold air problem to report. Hope it helps.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Have you tried a different dealership? They are not all the same. It took me 4 different dealerships to finally find a good service department. Salemen are good, but when something goes bad the service department is the ultimate tell tale sign of a good dealership in my opinion. Just because you bought from that dealer doesn't lock you in to only be able to get it serviced there. Good luck with the heater. Demand a rental car that is to be paid by the dealer for screwing up something while fixing another problem, most of the time they will cough one up.
  • dave5319dave5319 Posts: 51
    I agree with what you say because the 2000 was a new body style. But I for one have had very good luck with mine. Yes I have had the rear window problems, and 1 water leak that I fixed myself, but all in all Its a good and well built truck. In my 47 years I have owned alot of new cars &trucks and there is always something that has to be fixed, but this is one of the best I have owned. I understand that some people will have more problems that I have, but thats the luck of the draw, I've been there.
  • Finaling pricing on Monday for a 2001 Tahoe. I've done the research to find the invoice price for the truck on the dealers lot I want. My question is this.....anyone out there paying invoice or close to it for their new tahoe?
  • nighter50nighter50 Posts: 127
    I have just started looking at Tahoes and Sequoias and have not begun negotiating with dealers - however Carsdirect is below invoice in my area (SoCal) with the $1000 Car Show Rebate. I don't discount CarsDirect prices because I had a friend buy from them. I drove him to the dealer to pick it up - took about 20 minutes and most of that time involved the dealer going over the car with my friend. I would certainly check out CarsDirect's price for the truck you want and consider this price when negotiating with a dealer. I hope this helps.
    Good Luck!
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