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Chevy Tahoe

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  • onebuconebuc Posts: 28
    from my research the Yukon is same truck, minor cosmetic differences and 3 to 4 grand more for a different grill and name. My choice the Tahoe with all the options that I wanted and no regrets thus far. Price difference based on the LS model that I purchased.
  • I have the same seats in my '01 YXL and if you fully retract BOTH the lumber and the side bolsters, the seat back should be relatively flat. On the round button, push down until the sides are in and back until the lumbar is in. Let us know if it's more than that.
  • I had been leaning toward buying a Sequoia because of its styling and the fact that it was a little larger and it was a toyota (better built). My wife though did not really like it so we started to look more seriously at the Yukons. Came close to buying one then figured out that the Tahoe was the same auto but with a couple of cosmetic changes and would cost at least a grand more. Started looking at the Tahoe and finally purchased one two weeks ago. So far I love it. I live in DC and drive about 2 hours to Delaware to pay $100 over invoice for the exact truck I wanted. The dealer was great and my price did not include any dealer added fees like advertising. I got a fully loaded LT and am sure I saved about 5-6 thousand over the Sequoia, since the only way to get a Sequoia with higher level options is to purchase the Limited model. Enough to scratch my head about why someone would buy the Toyota. I have heard complaints about the Tahoes "fit & finish" but so far everything seems very well put together. Oh one last thing the Sequoia's engine is only about 245HP while the Tahoe's is 285HP. Even my wife who really does not care too much about her mode of transportation said that the Toyota's pickup was horrible compared to the Tahoe.
  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I ended up purchasing an 01 Z71 tahoe about 4 months ago. I looked at both the tahoe and the yukon, and found them to be the same vechile, other than the little differences here and there. Plus the yukon is a couple of grand more. Then for me the choice was between and LT or a Z71. And once I got to this point I made my decisions based on what options I wanted. I wanted larger tires, the nurf bars, and the better suspension. And once I started looking at the numbers I found the Z71 package to be about a grand cheaper than the LT. I know on the Z71 you can't get climate control or a third seat. Two options I didn't need. But other than that, the vechile is fully loaded. So I think your best bet is to determine what options you want, and what you want to pay. The yukon and the tahoe are both great vechiles so you really can't go wrong.
  • I guess, to elaborate on the question, Why did you choose the Taho/Yukon over the AV (if it was even a consideration). I agree my next truck will be a Chevy (Av or Tahoe) and not GMC.

    Any others would be greatly appreciated.
  • I bought a GMC Yukon XL for $200 LESS than I could have gotten a equally equipped Suburban. I don't know what you guys are looking at as far as price goes, but the GMC packages have more standard stuff on them, hence the "higher" price. If you add the options that come standard on any GMC to a Chevy the price for the Chevy is usually higher. Both basically the same vehicles, with a few cosmetic differences, like seat stitching, hood, grill and headlights, and front bumper, and fewer option packages for GMC. I work for the general so my employee price is set in stone, no deal making at all, and the GMC was $200 cheaper. I don't know how to explain it. This holds true for the Envoy vs. the Trailblazer as well, equally equipped Chevy costs more.
  • Is bargaining for the dealer invoice price realistic? and Did you get the convenience package, sans the sunroof? Those are the two packages I think I would consider:

    Z71 and conv pak w/o sunroof.

    Any others.
    If you want email me with you respones.

    Thanks
    localsurf69@yahoo
  • Thanks for your response jgmilberg.

    I had tried the lumbar controls (as had the service director) as you had suggested, but there is still a noticeable 3-inch lump about 6-inches up from the seat.

    The service director's contact at GMC said that they have been getting some complaints about the new design lumbar control seats (I think 2001 was the first year for the redesigned seats). He said it took him three months to get used to it himself.

    The GMC contact said they could take the lumbar out of the seats for me for ~$600 to $700/seat. GMC is not willing to pick up the tab.

    The service director suggested that I might want to take the Yukon to an auto trim store, to see if they could take the seatcover off and tweak the padding. He said it shouldn't void the warranty on my seat.

    What do you think?
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    I think the underlying question here is: Are the Lumbar supports in your Yukon any different than the supports in the other Yukons on the dealers lot.

    If the answer is yes, then don't settle for anything less than GMC replacement seats. If this dealer can't make it happen, try another who can, or call the GMC regional service manager.

    If the answer is no, then take whatever help that the dealer is offering to make you a happy and comfortable customer.
  • I have a 2000 Yukon SLT 4WD with 44K miles. It still has the original Goodyear tires (245 75 16). Although there is quite a bit of tread remaining they have gone to crap in the rain. With snow on its way, I think I need to make a decision. I have 2 questions- since GM would not allow me to order the 265 70 16's due to my 3rd seat, I suspect that these tires may cause the 3rd row seat ride to become more rough. Any thoughts? In addition, I am looking for recommendations for tires. I have always been a Michelin fan but even they offer quite a diversity All season to Off road options. I am mostly a pavement driver but seem some light off road and expect several 6" to 10" snow falls a year. It has been quite some time since I have visited these discussions. I am sure you guys have had many discussions on this topic but am too lazy (@ 26.4K!) to search through the postings! Thanks in advance, Lee
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    First - 265/70X16 = 245/75X16 in diameter. Second - I have no idea why GM restricts/restricted them on the Youkon since that's the stock tire on the Sub/Yukon XL. Third -- For what appears to be your use, the Michelin LTX M&S or Cross Terrain's are a good choice; ought to work out really well.
    -- Don
  • I agree with Don as far as the LTX M/S for a great tire all around, nice and quiet on the highway, but it give you the grip when you need it. Another consideration is the load range you will need, if you don't do a lot of heavy towing, like above 8000 pounds get the "D" range tires, they will give you a better ride, "E" range tires have a stiffer sidewall and give a somewhat bouncier ride, but if you off road in the rocks and boulders I would sacrifice ride for sidewall strength.

    The 245 is the standard tire on the Sub/Yukon XL, 265 is not an option, at least it wasn't for the 2001 models, not sure for '02. I have a 2001 3/4 ton and couldn't get 265's from the factory.
  • ghtrapghtrap Posts: 26
    The 265/70-16's were standard on my '02 Tahoe 2WD w/3rd seat, so I don't think the seat has anything to do with it. Maybe it's a 4WD thing.

    By the way - I had the dealer install Michelin Cross-Terrains in lieu of the standard Firestones before I would take delivery (at no additional expence to me).

    I've had the LTX M/S before - an excellent tire. I'm trying the Cross Terrains this time since they are engineered just for SUV's and I only drive on the highway. Very good ride and control so far!
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    is std/only tire available on the 3/4 ton. 1/2 ton XL/Subs and their shorter brothers get P265/70x16 or LT245/75x16 Load range C. The LT245 Goodyears are sorta ok and the Steeltex Firestones seem to work pretty well in warmer, low snow climates. The P-metric Firestones scare me anywhere and (IMHO) should be replaced instantly! One thing to consider for anyone doing new truck purchase trade-offs is that the Z-71 Tahoe/Subs come with decent looking, slightly wider wheels and competent, if not the absolute best, Wrangler AT/S tires. That books out around $600 or more in cost avoidance.
    -- Don
  • The tires that come with the Z71 package on the Tahoe/Suburban are 265/70x17's, so be aware that the
    wheel size goes up. There aren't as many options in tires for these trucks with 17" wheels. I'd like to go up
    to something around 285 on my Z71, but haven't found anything that will work yet.

    -Jeff
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    thats the downfall of 17" rims

    ask the ford people.
  • I upgraded my '01 Yukon to the 17" Denali wheels with Michelin Cross Terrain tires. The Michelins are decent year round tires. This will be my second Northern Wisconsin winter with this tire/wheel set-up. The only ill-effect of the change is that my speedometer is off by about 3-4 MPH at 60. I think GM can even fix this with a chip reprogramming. I have about 21,000 miles on the truck and these tires have been on for about 16,000 and show limited signs of wear.
  • srn24srn24 Posts: 4
    Just bought my Tahoe and it will arrive in about 5 days. After reading many of the posts here I'm hoping that my windows work, mirrors work, floor board doesn't flood, radio has reasonable sound, motor doesn't tap, engine lights function properly etc.
    It's got less than 10,000 miles and I've never driven it and can only hope the seller represents this vehicle properly. If not can someone tell me if these things are covered under warrenty ?
    Thanks.
  • I have an '01 Z71 that I bought in June, and have about 6000 miles on it now. The only thing that
    I've taken it into the dealer for is the cold air on the passenger floorboard during cold weather. They
    resealed the HVAC cowling, and everything is great. I've had no problems with the other things you
    mentioned, other than the fact that I replaced the sound system, but I do that with all my vehicles.
    A lot of the problems that you mentioned seem to be more prevalent on the '00 Tahoes, since that
    was the first year of the new body style.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Thanks for the info on the HVAC cowling. That's the first substantive comment I've read on fixing the cold air problem.
    -- Don
  • Try


    http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/01-01-37-008.html


    This is a copy of the TSB for this problem. It took my dealer about 3 hours to fix it.

  • srn24srn24 Posts: 4
    I just bought the 01 Z71 and would like to add 30-50 additional horsepower. Is there anyone on this board that may be able to advise what aftermarket parts I can add to the stock 5.3 to get me well up and over the 300 hp.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Either a NOS kit or a supercharger will get you there in a hurry. careful on the other bolt ons as the advertised HP isnt always equal to the dyno'd.
  • Hello to all, I'm new at this so please bear with
    me. I own a 2000 Tahoe which has been a great
    vechicle up to now. It has 34000 miles, is a LS,
    4wd,5.3 . About a month ago it started to miss
    intermittently. Rough idle on startup on ocassion
    and miss going down the road at 60 mph. this comes
    and goes with the service engine light. Dealer has not been able to help so far.
    Also dome lights work some times and some times
    don't when doors are opened. Any suggestions on
    either problems will be greatly appreciated!
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    of buying a car (at least for me) is spending a month or so doing the research. After I narrowed my long list down to a Tahoe or a Yukon, I came to the conclusion the Yukon is cheaper. The base Yukon SLE comes standard with automatic air, locking differential, tractions assist, alarm, subwoofer (on the nine speaker stereo), and lift gate (instead of cargo doors). Add all that stuff to a Tahoe and you're probably a $1000 ahead in the Yukon.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    spending only a month? I spent over a yr
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    dwain2,

    You did great for a first timer - welcome to the boards! I am sure someone with direct knowledge will be happy to provide the information you request.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • 32163216 Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2002 Tahoe w/ 5.3L engine. I'm having trouble finding the torque value for the oil drain bolt. It's not addressed in the manual and the 2002 Helm service book is unavailable. I've also tried Chevy technical support via their website, but no response to date.

    Any assistance would be appreciated.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    The Tahoe has electrochromic oustide rear view mirror and assist steps standard but the Yukon does not have these options standard. However, the Yukon has the automatic climate control, color keyed body side moldings (including rear quarter molding the Tahoe does not have) and color keyed front bumper cover, and color keyed door handles. Also, the Yukon has a center wheel cap which covers the lug nuts, but the Tahoe has the plastic lug nut covers exposed - which are a pain to keep clean.
    So, if you don't mind the black plastic trim, hard to clean wheels, and don't care for automatic climate control - the Tahoe would be the more economical choice - IMHO.
    I got the 2002 Yukon SLT loaded. My next one will probably be a basic Tahoe - don't really need all of the doo dads, but I do like the color keyed trim on the Yukon.
  • sievesieve Posts: 1
    my wife just called from 3 hrs away and shared that our 98 Yukon made a helluva racket when she put it in 4WD. Happens in both 4L and 4H. OK when in 2H. Noise reportedly coming from the transfer case. Sounds like "something is loose inside and catching". Anybody have a suggestion about diagonsis and fix?
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