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Chevy Tahoe



  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    black fender flares like the 2001 Yukon XL 2500 4WDs. Does anyone know if the Yukon XL "small wheel lip moldings" will fit the regular Yukon as well as the Yukon XL? The clearance between the rear fender and the rear door looks like the doors would clear the small wheel molding, but it would be close.
    The short black "nipple style" antenna on the 2002s sticking up out of the driver's roof area does have an unusual extraterrestrial look, but at least you can tell a 2001 from a 2002 right away. Seems like the rear of the vehicle was a better looking place on the 2001s.
  • Please look at the thread in the SUV forum about brake failures on GM SUVs. I've had a serious failure and I'd like to see if any others have experienced it.

    joe_jensen "Brake Failures on GM Fullsize SUVs?" Aug 28, 2001 8:13am
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I remember some of you with the cold air on the passenger side of teh truck during the cold winter months. GM has now issued a TSB, here it is. If the dealer give a hassle give them the TSB number and tell them to fix the problem.

    I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, for those with "problem" dealers that don't like to look things up, so they can print it up to take with them.

    Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
    Seal) #01-01-37-008

    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

    1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

    2002 Cadillac Escalade


    Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

    1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
    2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
    3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.


    Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.


    Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

    1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
    2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
    3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
    4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
    A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
    B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.


    Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

    C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
    5.Lower the hood.
    6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
    A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
    B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
    C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
    D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
    E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
    7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
    8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
    9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
    10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
    11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
    only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
    12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
    way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:


    It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

    A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
    B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
    C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
    dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
    D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
    metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
    E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
    13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
    14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
    15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
    16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
    17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
    18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
    19.Lower but do not close the hood.
    20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten

    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

    21.Raise the hood.
    22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
    23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.


    Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
    the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked positi
  • jasonrupjasonrup Posts: 13
    Looks just like Avalanche in the front and will have a mildly restyled interior to go with the mid-model freshening

    should carry over to the silverado as well.


  • jasonrupjasonrup Posts: 13
    Looks just like Avalanche in the front and will have a mildly restyled interior to go with the mid-model freshening

    should carry over to the silverado as well.


  • jumboagjumboag Posts: 1
    I heard a rumor the other day that GM is considering rereleasing a 2 Door Tahoe / Yukon for either 2003 or 2004... Has anybody heard anything or seen anything about this??
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    did you notice how its sitting in front of a dirty white silverado pickup?

    For some reason i get the feeling it was doctored up (computer enhanced)

    Dont take it the wrong way i did hear the silverados are getting the av grill soon also

    But that pic for some reason has fake written on it (in my opinion)
  • tomtorgtomtorg Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if there is an exact fit light that was supposed to come with the z71 pkg that fits in the circular knockout area of the heavy duty roof rack? I assume that Chevy had/has the part since the light was even advertised in their brochure. (I hear the FEds made them pull it since it could be turned on while driving, thus blinding drivers behind you). I WANT this light. Please email if you know anything about it. Much thanks, Tom
  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I too am looking for those lights to put into the Roof Rack of my Z71. The dealership i purchased my vechile from said that they were baja lights and that i could purchse them from most truck accessior stores, or order them online. i'm still though waiting for the dealer to call me back with the dimensions. If you find anything out let me know. Plus i'm currious about how to wire the set up. I haven't looked that far into it, but hoping to find others who have installed the lights or maybe the dealer will give me an idea.
  • tomtorgtomtorg Posts: 2
    Mark...I will keep you do the same for me. Be careful...halogen lights, I think will melt the cargo rack plastic cover. I haven't torn off my rack covers yet but I am under the impression the wiring harness is in place and leads to the dash. If not, I am planning on running the lights to a switch location near the cargo door "door lock" switch inside the cargo area. I will just buy a factory switch and use a solvent to eliminate whatever writing is on it. I figure that will be the closest to stock we can get.

  • mreid72mreid72 Posts: 3
    I need some help from owners of SUVs, please. Owners only!

    Here's my situation: My wife and I are having our first children, twins, in about 2 weeks. We currently own 2 cars: a '93 Buick LeSabre and a '96 Toyota Camry.

    I have vowed to never own a minivan, and so the next obvious choice is an SUV. The cars will be too small, especially going on trips. I have looked at the Sequoia and the Yukon, and briefly at the Suburban. In fact, this weekend, I'll be spending a lot of time at the dealerships driving, inspecting, talking, etc.

    We will use it mainly for hauling the family around, along with friends from time to time, and for vacations which we take 2-3 times a year. We live in Florida, and visit family in Alabama, spend time in the mountains in Tennessee, do lots of camping, hiking, canoeing, and are planning on going out west within the next 1-2 years. Our travel time will probably increase over the next 2-3 years, and I plan on keeping whatever I choose for at least 3-5 years. We probably won't tow anything since we have nothing to tow. However, that may change in the next 2 years, but that is not my primary concern.

    I would like to hear from owners of ALL full size SUVs, but what I want to hear is strictly their personal experiences with their own SUV; no bashing of the competition!!

    How have you used your SUV?
    How many people do you usually carry around?

    How much luggage space do you have?

    How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats?

    How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats?

    How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.)

    What do you NOT like about your SUV?

    I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples.

    Any comments would be much appreciated. As I stated earlier, I will be doing some investigating this weekend, and will check back on Monday to see what responses I get.

    Also, I'd like to know of some good websites for good vehicle reviews besides this one and Consumer Reports.

  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I just got off the phone with a place here in austin called B&H. They are the people who installed my brush guard and tinted my two front windows. Right now they are installing the lights in a Z71 roof rack. He said that the the wires are all in place and that they run up to the dash, and that they are going to install a switch on or under the dash depending on the customers request. They also suggested using pk lights, which he said were realy bright and that they would not melt the housing unit on the roof rack, but could met the housing unit of the lamps if left on for a long period of time. The price the quoted me to do the work was 250. which is basicly the cost of the lights. I don't but that seems a little pricey for a set of small lights.
    I'm going over to the place this weekend and see what it looks like on the Z71 they are working on and see if i can talk him down on the price a little.
  • The Z71 I just purchased has the tow package with the 4.10 rear. What performance differences can I expect and will gas mileage be much worse. I did not buy this truck for towing. Is the difference between this and the stock rear significant?
    Please let me know. Thank you
  • Those are alot of questions, the answers to which are in these forums. It would take alot of time for one to answer all of yours this weekend. Ask one or two of which you have a burning desire to know the answer. You can get help here or on the forum..
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    don't expect much from the 3rd seat in the basic Yukon/Tahoe. It is only suitable for Very small people (like midgets) or small children. The seat rests completely on the floor with no foot well, so your knees are at or above your chin when you sit in the third seat. Check out the Suburban
    or Yukon XL for a slightly roomier seat. As for getting in and out of the third seat - the best bet is for you to actually try to get in and out of it. I only got the third seat because the dealers said they have a hard time selling used Tahoes/Subs/Yukons without the third seat.
    After 2 days and 50 miles of ownership: I don't like the lack of rack and pinion steering (it has the old recirculating ball steering) and it is a bit unresponsive when turning the steering wheel at low speeds. This is a big, lumbering SUV and you feel its "topheaviness" in the turns. I was willing to accept that for a better ride, and it does ride well. However, when you hit a medium to big bump or expansion joint, even the autoride lets you know that you are driving a truck. On the plus side, the luxury features are everywhere. The full function seats are nice, but the armrest on the inboard sides are too low for a 6 footer. As big as this truck is, a lot of the features seem to be designed for very small people.
    As others have posted here, the radio/stereo system seems to have absolutely no bass response. I normally listen only to news stations, but even the announcer's voice on news stations sounds distorted with no bass.
    My suggestion - drive the Tahoe LS, drive the upscale Tahoe LT or Yukon SLT and see if the fancier models are worth another $10K. One reason good reason to get the upscale models is to get climate control - but I don't know if you can get it on the lower priced versions in 2002. Climate control is nice because you don't have to keep fiddling with the controls to adjust the temperatures - an especially nice feature in hot climates. I haven't yet figured out all of the climate control features - but I would say it is a must have in any new vehicle.
    I paid $33,307 GMO price for the Yukon SLT 2WD with everything but the sunroof. I had $1741 GM credit card points, and a $1000 gas tank coupon, then paid $2323.05 AZ sales tax, + $578.88 license plates, then added 72 month, 72,000 mile, $200 deductible extended warranty for $965 - so out the door I was at $33,433. List was $39,960, but anybody should be able to get invoice price.
    With a small family (and if you are not physically large), I would consider a smaller SUV. When your family gets bigger (both in physical size and number) you will probably want a bigger SUV.
    However, if comfort is your preference (as it is with me), then a big SUV is the way to go.
    Good Luck.
  • How have you used your SUV?

    I own a Yukon SLE (lower end model) and I have the 3rd row, sunroof, towing package (thats never been used). I have the car for 18 months and have around 20K miles. paid $700 over invoice (and had $3000 in GM card rebates and a $500 H&R block rebate)... so including sales tax we paid around $33K with a MSRP of $39k. We have one child.

    The regular Yukon has ample luggage space when the third row is folded up, and very little space when they are opened.

    Third row is for children and SMALL adults only. Getting in is not so bad (for children and SMALL adults)

    Truck is outstanding in bad weather conditions.

    My only regret is not going for the Yukon XL. The added space would've been a plus.

    In all, we love the Yukon and would highly reccomend it.

  • metmdxmetmdx Posts: 255
    Stopped by the local dealer yesterday (Sunday) and noticed the 2002 Tahoe's are on the lot. Can anyone tell me if there are any significant differences between the '01 and '02?
  • I have a 2001 Yukon that when it is parked on an incline can be difficult to shift out of Park. In one instance I was towing a boat on a steep boat ramp and had to get out of it. I set the brake then put it into park, the brake evidently didn't hold and the thing absolutely would not get out of park. I had to get a tow to take the pressure off to get it out of park. My dealer checked into this and said that this problem has occurred to other vehicles and that they are looking for a solution. Does anyone know anything more on this?
  • I read somewhere that the parking brake was only good for the weight of the vehicle itself. Once you exceeded that weight (i.e. BOAT) the parking brake would not hold.

    Go figure............I thought that is why you used the parking brake. Keep in mind that we are no longer dealing with rear drum brakes that would hold, now we have rear disc brakes that will not hold. I believe the parking brake works on a small set of drum brakes located on the inside of the rear rotor simular to the old corvettes. This brake pad looks like it came off a motorcycle.
  • My parking brake did not hold the weight of my Yukon even on a mild incline... I had my dealer adjust it (the sevice dept is great) and now it works like a real emergency brake (it'll stop the truck on a dime - even when in drive).

    illini, get yours serviced.

    These mini pads can hold the truck.

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