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Chevy Tahoe

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Comments

  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    Had a 96 Tahoe. Sounds similar to the problem I had. From a dead stop, step on the gas, and I got the feeling it wasn't quite in gear. It was a glich in the drive-train, some kind of spring/pin assembly in the drive shaft. I would have thought they'd have fixed it by 99. Anyway, they never could fix mine other than a temporary lub that would last a few months. As I recall they would pull the yoke (does that sound reasonable) grease it up good, and it would stop it for a while. Good luck.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    Most dealers have a lot of 2001 models leftover, so they are not anxious to load up on 2002 models and make their 2001 models less marketable.
    There are very few 2WD GM models available, so you may have to order one if that is what you want. Regarding a 2002 model, you should be able to get a better price if you order, since the dealer does not have to pay anything to stock the vehicle on his lot.
    For GM models, many people can get a "supplier discount", which is about 5% over the GMS
    (GM out of stock price for GM employees), if you work for a company which supplies parts/materials to GM.
    Check the new car TMV(True Market Value) on this site's new car feature to get a realistic price in your zip code. By March or April you should have no trouble getting a new SUV at or near invoice price, especially if the economy is still in the dumps then.
    I ordered a new 2002 Yukon in mid-July and took delivery on August 30th. Six weeks is still probably a good estimate, but you should allow 2 months, unless you want something that is "on constraint" for some reason (GM can't get the part, has trouble with the part, etc.).
    I let my email do the walking when I was in the buying process. Check the local dealer websites (they all have them) and email your request. Try the bigger metropolitan areas first, then you will have something to use for comparison with your local dealer. But, I would not do this until you are 2 months away from actually buying your SUV or you will have junk email and phone calls from the dealers for months. You might even look out of state (Michigan?, Kentucky?) once you check out the sales tax/vehicle registration regulations in Ohio for out of state purchases. You might save some significant $$ just on sales tax. If neighboring states have lower sales tax than Ohio, the dealers in those nearby states will probably already be familiar with facilitating your purchase for registration in Ohio. Even a couple of percentage points difference in sales tax can be $600 - $1000 savings on a $30K- $40K vehicle.
    I also hate purchasing vehicles. I find that knowing exactly what you want by having a listing of the GM order codes(you can get them off any website - here at Edmunds, Kelly Blue Book, NADA, autobytel, cars.com, etc.) helps in talking with the dealers. The GM buypower website is probably the definitive source on this.
    Also, I found that GMC dealers don't like to deal on Yukons as much as Chevrolet dealers will deal on Tahoes. Maybe it is because there are fewer Yukons than Tahoes made. I don't know why that is, but I'll bet you can still get that Yukon at or near invoice if you try.
    In the future, I would get a GM Master Card if you don't already have one. I buy everything with that Card (groceries, gas, Home Depot,etc.) and always accrue $500 per year in GM discount dollars against a new vehicle purchase. If you spend a lot, you can also get a Citibank Mastercard and get a 1% rebate of your purchases against a new car purchase. Check out their websites.
    Just curious, what kind of options are your planning for your new Yukon? As mentioned above, I think their standard automatic climate control is a big selling feature and leans me toward Yukon vs. Tahoe.
    Good Luck.
  • We are attempting to close a deal on a new Denali.
    Suddenly $952.50 in marketing & advertising fees show up on invoice. Dealer is advising this is on all GMC vehicles. We've never seen this fee when purchasing vehicles.

    Has anyone purchased GMC recently and paid these fees????
  • I bought my 2001 Tahoe LT, all options except Autoride, plus a dealer installed TV/VCR, for $37,500 which was about $300 over invoice for the truck and almost free for the TV/VCR (which was listed at $1,700!!)
    That included the dealer rebate. I probably could've gotten a few more bucks off but I was leaving for a trip within days and needed the truck and my wife loved the color (Redfire mettalic with Beige leather). We got .09% financing for four years
    Took the truck on a 3500 mile round trip-loved it, except the four wheel drive light came on-back to the dealer)
    Love this truck though!!
  • This is great info. Although my husband and I have purchased and leased new cars (Jeep GC, Toyotas), we've always bought from dealer stock...never special-ordered. I love the idea of negotiating via email rather than at the dealership. Just to clarify a few things: when you send the email with the request of the vehicle and options, colors etc. that you want, do you also offer the price you're willing to pay? If the dealer accepts, does this price apply even if the car needs to be special-ordered? Or do you simply state in the email request that you would like to special-order the car if it is not on the lot? How does the process work if we negotiate a price and then decide to lease based on the agreed-upon price?

    As for options, not sure if running boards are standard but we want those, leather would be nice, climate control that you mentioned sounds great, pewter color. Other than that, I'm not too picky......currently driving a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee so a new car will be fantastic!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Mom

    When i ordered my silverado i actually paid under invoice so no you do not and should not pay msrp
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    Yes, you will see advertising fees on all invoices. This is why Edmunds cautions that the dealer's actual invoice may be more than theirs, as they can't predict what these fees will be. Accept that they will be there, and negotiate your best deal accordingly. These should not be "added" on after you reach the price.

    It should also be noted that these fees can vary on identical vehicles depending on the dealer and the delivery date among other things...My dealer had to trade for my 01' Silverado, so I was suprised when the Invoice was about $50 more than the identical one on his lot. When I finally got the truck, it was scratched, so he had to trade with another dealer for the color I wanted. This other dealers advertising and coop fees were lower than the first 2. Having said all this, I think that the fees on my silverado were about $300, and like $350 on my Tahoe, so yours do seem high.
  • jeff331jeff331 Posts: 21
    The dealer you are buying the Denali from may always *try* to charge this fee, but it is not something that
    GM charges. A lot of dealers have "handling" fees, as well as "marketing/advertisement" fees, but most
    of these are negotiable. I recently purchased a '01 Tahoe Z71, and only payed $100 as a dealer "prep/handling"
    fee. They charged this amount on every vehicle they sell, but it goes straight into the dealer's pocket.
    Almost a thousand dollars sounds ridiculous to me. The most I've ever seen at a dealer around here is $300.
  • I pull a 19' SeaRay with my 2001 Tahoe LT with a 5.3L engine. GAS mileage is 15MPG on a long trip, 1500 miles one way, pulling the boat. Tahoe handles this nicely you don't know you are pulling anything.
    Mileage without the boat on a trip is 18.5 and for general driving about it 16.5 to 17 unless I get heavy on the passing and it goes out the tank like you have a leak.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    bought mine

    no prep fee
    no doc fee
    no ad fee

    no nothing but the price of the actual truck. Place i got it from doesnt charge extra fees (they are a small dealership)

    Ryan
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    I have been out for a few days so i could not acknowledge responses. Will crawl underneath it tomorrow and try to shake things out. I have 30 days/1000 miles from dealer. I will take it back soon to see if they can diagnose.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    want. For instance, you said that "leather would be nice." Does that mean that you must have the leather (i.e. you are willing to pay more for it and absolutely don't want cloth) or you don't really care whether it is leather or cloth. Also, make your decision to lease or buy before you go to the dealers. This Edmunds site has good topics on the lease/buy issue to help with your decision. The less you know about what you want the more the dealers will wheedle you to their best advantage.
    When you know for sure exactly what you want, and are ready to buy within two months, email the dealers with your exact vehicle desired. For instance, I checked here at Edmunds and got:
    GU6 - 3.42 rear axle ratio
    C5U - 6800 pound gvwr
    AS3 - custom cloth third row 50/50 split bench seat ($310 MSRP)
    AVE - running boards ($340 MSRP)
    1SB - SLE equipment group
    add your color, e.g. pewter metallic exterior, pewter cloth interior
    This is $34,862 MSRP and $30,585 invoice, but Edmunds does not list True Market Value (TMV), or what you should expect to pay in Ohio, for this vehicle yet. This was a 2WD.
    I would not tell dealers what you will pay up front. Most will call you or tell you to call them to "chat" about price. This is what they are trained to do - get you into the dealership so they can upscale your purchase. Just tell them you need a price (sale or lease) for the exact vehicle you described - no need to visit the dealer. You will already have toured the dealers earlier for a test drive when you were in your "window shopping" phase, so you can just tell the dealer all you need is a price. When you have several quotes, you can play one dealer off another. If no dealer in your area is at or near invoice, try out of state - some dealers advertise invoice pricing.I had some dealers email me back to say they would beat any other dealer's price. Some dealers, especially in big metropolitan areas, actually want to sell vehicles rather than just advertise vehicles.
    Once you know exactly what you want, the process goes quickly and relatively simply. If you don't know exactly what you want, I would say you are not yet ready to buy. Most dealers will contact other dealers to find the model you want in their stock and have it shipped to their dealership. Most likely, you will be better off odering exactly what you want.
    Also, I would always negotiate out any dealer adversing fees or dealer prep fees. These are just added fluff that GM, as stated above, does not require. Remember, the dealers get 3% dealer holdback from GM, so they make money even if they sell at invoice price.
    IMHO, for $30-40K the purchase is worth some upfront effort. Happy hunting.
  • 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe LT, with LT package, autoride and other stuff. List is $41,784. They're knocking off around $4500 bringing it down to $37,200. I offered $35,000 with the 0% financing for three years. What's a good deal? Thanks. Oh, and by the way , is the sunroof worth the price or is it just a nuisance. I'd rather have it.
  • You are just a wealth of information! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. We are going to do some test-driving within the next month and will be well-prepared to lease a new vehicle in the early Spring. Wish we could do it now but we have to wait until our Camry lease is up in April. We'll be test-driving the Yukon, Tahoe and Toyota Sequoia.

    Question: Does anyone know why Edmunds does not list True Market Values on the 2002 Yukons and Sequoias? Is it on a state-by-state basis (I'm in OH) or is it too early to have TMV's on the 2002 models??
  • I just bought a 2002 Tahoe Z71 lastweek for $34,630. I had no trade and took the 0% for three years. I think it is a great driving vehicle and so far I am more than satisfied w/ my purchase. I think the Z71 package is the way to go for anyone considering a 4wd tahoe. The cosmetic differences really make the Z71 standout from the crowd of LS & LT suburban and tahoes. I
  • Can you or can you not Lift a Tahoe With Autoride Suspension?
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    Anyone know what the current lease residual is on the 02 Tahoe for either 24 or 35 months? Based on looking at the classifieds, it looks like close to 50% for 36 months. Anyone out there leased on lately. Gosh, I miss those old days with high 50's and low 60's residuals.
  • kyonekyone Posts: 4
    Regarding message 878 did you find source of squeak, I have the same
  • onebuconebuc Posts: 28
    I just got under there and tightened the body mount bolts. I have an after market side step and believe it was the cause. No problems since that. Also heard someone else say that the spare tire caused a similar noise. Good luck.
  • Heres a dumb question-do our 2001 Tahoes have a bulb behind the icon above the dimmer switch? Mine doesn't and that doesn't make any sense(after all, isn't that one switch youd be looking for at nite?) I had mine in the dealer for other work and i had them check, and they said there is no bulb there
    heres another one- I have a rattle when I slam my tailgate, they said it was normal, it was a pressure releif vent in the plastic side pillars that the Tahoe and Suburban both have
    If thats true, it is a crappy design, cause it sounds like something is falling apart
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