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Chevy Tahoe

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  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    SUB you have been a huge help

    Ryan
  • I just learned that my "check engine" light is the result of a vacuum leak in the gas tank. They'll have to replace it. It's on national back order. Ack. I'm glad I made them put me in a rental. While they're at it, maybe they can put in a large one. :)

    Obviously they can't check the steering clunk without a gas tank attached.

    Carl
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Truck trend Feb 2001 issue (got it today) compares the tahoe with the expedition and sequoia. Well theres a new option the Z71 is back. On the lift gate instead of a tahoe emblam there is a Z71 on the drivers side (kinda looks like the 99 silverados Z71 sticker not the new one that says offroad but its not a sticker its an emblam)

    Looks like this

    Z71 Chevrolet


    Price as tested with options (dont know what they do not list) was $38,287 including destination

    Base Price was $27,845
    Options $9742

    It was cheaper than the expedition and sequioa both of them were at $40K plus

    Ryan
  • I don't agree with the system that is used, Basically what there saying is that if someone gets a key that fits and turns then there in business(slim chance). If someone tries to use a knife or a screw driver than the fuel will be disabled. I think the chip in the key is a better design, no other key will work with out the chip.I have that on my 97 lumina and put a small piece of tape on the chip, the car would not start at all.

    As for the rear window getting wet or dusty, I install a Lund windjammer. I did notice a difference, the window does stay cleaner and dryer. The faster you go the better cause more air is forced down over the window. If I had to guess I think it helped about 50%. I don't think any of them will give you 100%.
    Dave...
  • The correct Mobil 1 oil filter for the 5.3 L is the M1-206.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Several of the circuits in our GM vehicles are simply two component, series connected, voltage monitoring sensors. I would like to produce a three or five step alarm verification chart:

    Is the low coolant alarm not functional due to loss of ground to the sensors switch?
    Is the permanent low coolant alarm due to a stuck sensor/switch?
    Is a non-functional low coolant alarm due to loss of a 5 volt feed on the Light Green wire.

    Would one of our technicians be willing to reach under the edge of the surge/ coolant tank and unplug the connector. This should not turn on the low coolant alarm -please stop here and advise me if the alarm - low coolant comes on. Naturally the engine must be on at this time. The connector we are interested in contains two wires - one black and one light green wire.
    A voltmeter with the black meter lead going to the connector with the black wire and the red meter lead going to the connector with the light green wire should read +5 volts.

    The service manual shows the switch inside the surge coolant container to be a normally open connection. Pressure of the fluid at a low level will allow the switch to put ground on the light green wire dropping its voltage level to 0 volts and this sense lead should turn on the low coolant alarm message.
    The wiring diagram for this circuit is shown on page 6-579. If after looking at this circuit I think you will agree that you can safely short the electrical connector that you have disconnected. This should force on the warning message. By doing this we have proven out the ground wire is good and the +5 volt supply is functional plus the chips which turns on the alarm.
    If no one wishes to try this I understand for it`s your beautiful truck not mine.
    Don434.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Since your dealer said that he has several other failures of the sensor, this may be a trouble that many may look forward to. According to the service manual the sensor itself can`t be replaced - they must replace the entire coolant surge tank. Would you mind checking your repair order and advise if they refer to the part replaced as a surge tank and in any case give us the part number. This info may help others. Please supply a little more detail of your vehicle such as 1/2 ton Suburban or Tahoe or Yukon and engine size.
    On post 146 I think you said that the coolant level rose when you removed the coolant tank cap. I may have misunderstood you and you really removed or loosened the radiator cap. This second action makes sense since the drop in pressure would cause a surge of coolant to be expelled.
    If I can obtain my requested tests I`ll produce a simple test or two to prove sensor or wiring troubles. If it would be of interest I`ll try to produce several diagnostic procedures. Maybe at a slow one every week or ten days.
    BTW the note about tank replacement for sensor repair appears on page 6-628. We don`t need a scan tool for these basic circuits - these things are a little part of dumbing down America. On many troubles they are a necessity but certainly not all. A volt/ohm meter is often enough.
    Don434.
  • There is no radiator cap on these vehicles. The surge tank has a 15 psi pressure cap, so removing the cap can cause the coolant level to rise. The owner's manual advises: "Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot".

    Jim
  • I noticed that when I plug my cell phone adaptor into the lighter my FM reception becomes alot worse then when it is fringe areas. Has anyone else noticed this?

    Larry
  • I purchased some PIAA 520 driving lights for my 01 XL and planned on hooking them up using the high beam wire as my switch so they would dim with the high beam. I asked PIAA customer service before I purchased them and they said this would work. After I got them in I was talking to a tech support guy and he said that the 00 & 01 Yukons, Subs & Hoes have a "Switching Ground System" and thier is always current running through the high beam wire even when they are off and this method of installation will not work. He said I would have to dim the 520's seperate from the high beam with their switch whenever I meet another car.

    Told him this was crap and was going to return them and he said they have an old wiring harness that has an extra ground that would allow me to do what I want. I expect to receive this harness within the next few days and will report back if it works.

    Anyone out their hook up some driving lights and try to tie them into the high beam? Would like to hear your story.

    Larry
  • Larry the tech support guy is right. There is always +12 volts present at the low and high beams. When they are turned on, the ground connection is made thus completing the circuit. You can accomplish what you want with a simple relay that has its pull in coil always connected to +12 volts and the other side connected to the ground side wire of the high beam. Then just take a fused 12 supply through the normally open contacts of the relay and connect to the driving lights. I dont remember the color of the ground side wire but im sure Don 454 can help you there. I suspect the harness you speak of does this. One thing to keep in mind is that IMHO the wiring in these vehicles is inadaquatly small in wiregauge. I would definatly use a new dedicated 12 volt supply to power the lights. The harness you speak of may be set up to get the new light supply from the existing headlight supply wire. this will cause your new lights to share power from the headlight wire that is already (IMO) too small. What happens then is the headlights and driving lights will operate dimmer than they should. The light you have been gypted (is that a word?) out of is given up in heat in the wire. Now ive really confused you.Mayby Don can talk you through it better than i can. MIke
  • I disconected The sensor plug and got no light. I then shorted the wires three different times and got no light. I then measured the voltage across wires and got 12.84. It was 14 something at the battery. After i took the measurement i looked in and the light was on. Explain that one??? I plugged the sensor back in and the light was still on. I turned motor off and back on and the light had reset itself. I wonder if there is a resistor in the sensor as a direct short would not cause light to come on. I should have measured voltage before i shorted wires. Mike
  • I have a 2000 Yukon and have recently been experiencing a knock/rattle when going around curves. It is most noticeable on exit/entrance ramps. Anyone have a similar experience?
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Wish the heck the 2002`s would get here so I can move out of the middle ages. Stupid assumption from a man with a old Suburban. With a pressurized surge tank it all makes sense. Thanks much for the update. Would really appreciate your input on my diagnostic chart for sensor problems when I finally get it out. Only one sensor at a time will be covered. I think I`ll be O.K. but since the 2001 service manuals are not available all will be based on the 2000 service manual.If someone makes the requested tests I hope to put out the first chart within a week.It will be basic as hell but will help some i`m sure.

    Mike:
    Sounds good to me - an additional relay on this switched ground circuit is the way to go. As we both have said - several times now - GM`s wiring is usually very light in gauge side so I hope our good buddy will use heavier wire for his addition. Can`t wait till the 02`s get here AND the service manuals. Will order a 2001 service manual the day I learn of it`s availability.
    Have fed 31 corrections, additions, and omissions on the 2000 manual and will work harder on the 2001 book so that MAYBE our 2002 service manual will be a much better product. There are dozens of diagrams where the call out numbers for parts are not entered on the drawings so that the technician can match the written instructions to the diagram. Things will get better - I hope.
    Don 434.
  • No problem, hope they work out.

    Subliminal
  • I think PassLock is a reasonable theft deterrent system.
    There are typically two ways a car gets stolen:
    1) The thief breaks into the car and jams a screwdriver into the ignition switch to turn it or otherwise forces the ignition switch.
    Seems like GM's PassLock will prevent this. So will the more expensive/complex chip-in-key system. Or:
    2) The thief finds your vehicle, writes down its VIN number and then uses his connections to find out the key number. He then has a perfect key printed, finds your car again, opens it with the key and drives aways with the key.
    GM's PassLock will not prevent this. But neither will the complex chip-in-key system because once the thief has the key number information, he can fairly easily have a chip-in-key version made.

    So, at the end of the day, as an owner, I'd probably rather have the PassLock version. It enables me to buy cheap replacement keys (although GM doesn't want you to know this) and is probably much more durable. It is probably 95% or more as effective as a chip-in-key version.
  • I recently had my truck in twice and they could not find. I had to refer to the TSB # on this sight.It described it the exact way I described to my dealer. Once they replaced the defective shaft, all was well. I dont recall the #, but if you search the forum before this one, Im sure you will find it.
  • I have a 01 Tahoe with 500 miles. It feels like it has a right to left weave in the steering. I just sold a 2000 Silverado and I rented a 01 Tahoe for a couple of days. I don't remember having that sensation driving them. The trucks was ordered and has never been off road. I'm the only driver and have not hit anything to knock the front end out. Anyone else having problems?
  • Some people may not have heard yet, but today GM said it would phase out the Oldsmobile division over the next couple of years.

    How many Olds dealers are also GMC dealers? Will this have an adverse effect on the availability of warranty outlets for GMC owners?
  • Vinnie6 send me his pictures, which are below. I noticed that the Yukon XL version, which is called a GMC Suburban in Saudi Arabia, has a couple of extra vent holes in the front bumper and is missing the body side molding behind the rear wheels. Also in the background of the first picture you will see a blue GMC Suburban which appears to have clearance lights on the front portion of the roof.

    image

    image

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