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Chevy Tahoe

19091939596205

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  • That's what my stock Goodyears were doing. They had 8/32 tread left but would break loose from a light, or fish tail on turns on wet roads. The Michelins cured that 100%
    Dave
  • xyz71xyz71 Posts: 179
    I have about 12.5 K miles on the stock tires. Based on the amount of tread wear so far I will guess that they will last 35K. My main complaint is the sidewall. It seems like every little curb kiss leaves a scar on the sidewall.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Yes, Dark Gray Metallic and Carbon Metallic are the exact same color, just named different for marketing reasons.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    liquid is on sale (usually Turtle Wax) on the vehicle and also use it on the tires - scrubbing the sidewall with the rub marks lightly with a scotch brite pad in the soapy solution, then I use Westley's spray tire cleaner to darken the tires. Covers my "tracks" very well.
  • mikeslmikesl Posts: 6
    Anyone lend some advice on whether they think a 2002 LS Tahoe w/ just under 20k miles, 4x4 priced at $29k is a decent deal. I've been waiting for the end of the month until salespeople are more willing to deal to reach quotas and seems like they may be beginning. This is a guy calling me from two states away, so I'm starting to get hope. Any advice is appreciated.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    Less than 2 hours ago I saw a local TV ad for an '03 LS (probably short on options) for a bit more than $28k. Understand, I'm not shopping at the moment, and I have no idea what options are on the '02 Tahoe, so I can't speak with absolute confidence; but, $29k sounds more like a good deal on a new 4WD LS and a poor one for an '02 with nearly 2 years worth of miles. If you've got $29k to spend, shop for a new one. Good luck.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    It's not great but, not bad. Check ads in the paper and see what Dealers are asking. What I often use as a guide is to look at Edmunds TMV for a new 2002, then subtract .09 cents per mile. Like on a used vehicle with a high mileage penalty. It'll give you a ballpark figure. If you have any trade it's a moot point anyway 'cause it all comes down to difference. The thing you have to rememeber is what people say they they pay is a lot like how many MPG they get. Every time they tell somebody it get's better. And you'll always meet somebody who did better. It's all what you're happy with.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    miles. That many miles indicates that the vehicle has been driven hard in just one year of ownership. However, I know that the "wholesale" price is all that dealers will give me on a trade, even with only 3,000 miles on the vehicle, so dealers don't value low mileage as much as private buyers. Also, you will get a lot less truck on the base 2003 LS, as compared to a 2002 LS (see post above). I rather doubt a 2003 4WD for $28K, but it could happen. I have always stayed away from 4WD because of the additional likely repair issues, which I think would be even more of a concern on a used vehicle with 20K. Unless you really need the 4WD - I would stay away from it - just my $.02.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Think very carefully before buying a used 02 with 20k miles. Because you can get 0% interest on the new 02 models, it may not cost you any more to buy a new one than it will to purchase on old one. You can't get 0% on a used Tahoe. In fact, a new Tahoe may cost you LESS if you are interested in buying a Tahoe that doesn't have all the options. For example, I just replaced my 02 LS Tahoe with 10k miles for a new 02 LT - and I pay LESS now than I did for the old one!!! I took the 0% for 60 months, I took the $500 cash back and then I took advantage of the "no payments for 90 days" by putting those three months of payments into the down payment (which, of course, I will completely recoup within 3 months). I ended up paying $200 over invoice for the new LT (which I would not have accepted but for the fact that they gave me a very good trade-in value).

    Right now it may not make much sense to purchase a used 02 Tahoe when the new ones are such a great deal!
  • cwaynecwayne Posts: 81
    Just traded my 2001 Yukon SLT with 21000 for a 2003 Tahoe LT. Sticker price was $3000 more. With rebates and $1500 credit card points the difference was $7700.00 including tax and license, this figured out to about $320.00 per month including tax. I used Edmunds numbers in the negotiations and they were not far off.
    Regarding tires my experience with the Firestone 265/70/16 is that they ride smooth and are quite. I have had no problem with traction although I don't drive in snow. If you are going to buy a truck with Firestones at least try them before spending $600 or $700 for something that may not be much better.
  • mikeslmikesl Posts: 6
    Thanks to all for their comments. Ianshaw, I agree w/ you, but haven't been able to find a new '02 Tahoe for about a month in order to take advantage of the kind of deal you mention. Where did you find your '02 LT?? I'm willing to travel for the right deal on one of these cars.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    a local Dealer locate one for you.....here's what I did when looking for leftover Avalanches. I went to Switchboard.com and looked up a common last name in nearby cities (200 mi. or so) to get zip codes. Then used those zip codes on gmbuypower.com to search Dealers is those cities for new 2002s. Found lots of them. BTW....for a good price I'd have no problem buying a 2002 with 20k miles. It kinda depends on how many miles you put on a vehicle. If you put on a lot then you probably wouldn't want to start out with 20k. My wife's '96 Explorer has 40k miles on it. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to buy a nice 20k mile '02 for her.
  • pgpstlpgpstl Posts: 1
    Bought a used 1998 Tahoe (5.7L with 3.42 rear end - supposed to have towing package). My question is if anyone out there has a towing guide for that year/modle showing the GCWR. I can not find it anywhere on the vehicle or in the owners amnual that came with it. Thanks for your help
  • hi,this is keith i have a 1999 2wd 4dr yukon that has a problem that is felt in the rearend..the problem shows up after you come to a complete stop and start the first movement to take off again.after about a half of a revolution of your wheels it feels like someone taps you from behind.or it feels like the rearend drops down.i've had some people tell me it might be the abs system.i dont know enough about this to start checking things out.im thinking it might be something common cause i traded off a 1994 chevy pick-up that was starting to do the same thing.i would appreciate any and all help on this problem,cause it is a real pain in the neck.thank you keith in florida.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    And it's called a clunk.
  • if this is a common problem,what have you heard is the fix? thanks for the info obyone.keith
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I had a 96 with the clunk. The fix was to pull the yoke, and slap on some grease which worked temporarily (between a few days and a few months). Judging by the posts I've seen here over the last year, I don't think Chevy ever came up with a real fix. It is very frustrating!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Driveline - Clunk Explanation

    File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle

    Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002A

    Date: September, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Driveline Clunk

    Models:
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models

    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

    Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.

    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.

    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.

    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.

    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.

    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:

    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components.

    Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.

    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Transfer Case - Bump/Clunk Update

    File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle

    Bulletin No.: 99-04-21-004A

    Date: September, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Discontinue Flushing and Replacing Transfer Case Fluid Due to Bump/Clunk Concern

    Models:
    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC K1-2 Pickup and Full-Size Utility Models
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
    with NP246 Automatic Transfer Case (RPO NP8)

    This bulletin is being issued to cancel Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

    This bulletin is being issued to advise dealerships to no longer flush and replace the transfer case fluid when a customer comments about a "bump" feeling when the vehicle accelerates from a stop.

    When Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004 was issued, a new transfer case fluid had just been developed to correct this condition. Currently, a nickel-plated slip yoke is being developed that will correct this condition. A new bulletin will be issued as soon as parts are available.

    Please share the information in this bulletin with customers who may inquire about this condition.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    and it has resolved the clunk for some...but not all.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    is common in a lot of 4X4 vehicles, particularly with automatic trannys. Many Jeeps, Tacomas, and 4runners (that's the ones I'm familiar with) have done the same thing. It's intermittant and not on every vehicle. I ignore it because even those that I've heard get it fixed, sometimes it comes back later on.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Is this slip yoke an aftermarket part, or is it manufactured by GM? What is the part number? (Anybody that has experience with dealer parts departments can appreciate that question.) Has anybody purchased one? How much does it cost? How much of a pain in the tail is it to install?

    Wow, lots of questions. Any information is appreciated. My 99 Tahoe LT exhibits the clunk on acceleration from a stop and it annoys me. Had the yoke packed with grease and that lasted only a couple of weeks. I want to fix it!!!

    Thanks

    David
  • what type of grease did you use? im hearing that GM has a special grease that will fix this problem.they say it has a GM part number.has anyone else heard of this grease,if so what is it,and does it work? they say axle or bearing grease will not work.thanks
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Don't know. The dealer I bought the Tahoe from did the repack of the yoke. Also, please note the grease does not fix the problem. It only masks it for a short period of time.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    I purchased my new 02 LT Tahoe in the Denver area. At that time, there was still a decent supply of LT's and lots and lots of LS' in the Denver/Boulder/Colorado Springs area. However, that supply is probably rapidly disappearing because of the new incentives. I actually located the LT Tahoe I wanted on my own (through the dealership locator on the Chevy.com website) and then told my dealer where to look for it so that they could do a dealer trade. Of course, the dealer could perform the same task in about 5 minutes.

    My dealer traded a 03 Tahoe LS for the 02 Tahoe LT that I bought. If you put a little pressure on them, all the dealers around here are willing to do dealer trades in order to make the sale. However, if the trade has to come from a long distance, they may charge you all or part of the cost of trailering your new vehicle to your dealership. Because Denver is 90 miles from me, my dealership allowed me to drive their trade vehicle to the Denver/Aurora dealership where I picked up my new Tahoe and I drove my Tahoe home myself. However, be mindful that if you elect this option, the dealership where you are picking up your vehicle may not be real cordial to you. I assume they must be disappointed that you did not buy the new vehicle from them. The salesman and/or managers at Len Lyall Chevrolet in Aurora Colorado were about as rude and unpleasant as you can get when I arrived to pick up my new Tahoe. Luckily, I was so psyched about my new spitfire red LT, I wasn't real concerned about how they treated me!!
  • i guess we will have to get more info on the yoak theory.im still looking and will share info if i find out anything.it has gotten to the point where i dont even want to drive the vehicle!!!
  • Driveshaft yoke grease no.12345879. I understand that the grease has teflon - thinking of trying it myself...a bit pricey at approx $30 for 16oz. A second fix is outlined in SB 99-04-21-004. The bulletin speaks of replacing transfer fluid with a "new" fluid no.12345879. The fluid is reasonably priced at approx $7 per qt.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    The TSB you mention that discusses replacing the transfer case fluid has been superseded. The new bulletin does not recommend replacing the transfer case fluid. Guess they got tired of replacing transfer case fluid for a problem that was located at the rear yoke.

    Anybody got part numbers and any other information for the nickel plated yoke?
  • bioman3bioman3 Posts: 37
    My 99 Yukon, with 54K, has developed a scary problem. At speeds ranging from 25 MPH to 60MPH+ it will suddenly pull to the right. After correcting, the steering returns to normal. There is no predicting when the truck will do this. I have had the brakes, power steering, front CV joints, shocks and the steering checked out by my mechanic and he can't get the truck to duplicate the problem. My mechanic says that the problem is not a major issue yet, since he can't duplicate it, so I should continue to drive the truck until the problem worsens to the point that he can observe the truck doing it. Has anyone out there had a similar problem and, if yes, how was it resolved. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • chief29chief29 Posts: 14
    I've had my truck for a year now and am very happy with it. Dropped it off at the dealer tonight for its first repair, and a minor one at that. The mirror on the driver's side is not heating up, and living on the foggy coast of the Peoples Republic of California, this is a feature that I enjoy on the morning commute. Just push the button and the mirrors clear up in a few minutes.
    I hesitated bringing it in for this because I knew that they would want the truck for at least a day for this simple repair. The parts guy would sell me a new heated mirror face for $39 and I considered buying it and installing it myself, but it was not in stock. His computer said the Chevy dealer on the other side of town had one in stock. I headed down to the Chevy dealer to see if they could do the warranty repair since they had the part was in stock and could probibly do the repair in one day. I expect that the GMC dealer will have my truck for two days, one to diagnose and order the part, and the second to receive and install the part. I was surprised when the Chevy dealer told me that they would only work on Chevys not GMCs.
    This was a shock to me as I thought that all GM dealers worked on any GM product (except Saturn). Is this a local rule or does this apply everywhere?
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